After having it for a year I have finally been able to begin work. I bought it from a board member Mathewt. Great seller, couldn't have been more honest.
With the help of this board and particularly Hitman he got the car mechanically in very good condition. All rubber in the engine compartment is new. Calipers, shocks, and several other suspension components are new as well.
Recently I posted about removing the dash and interior but I just figured out how to get photos in the post and not as attachments. SO here they are.
In the sellers Driveway
And now my work begins
Looks like the dashboard threw up!
Last edited by espoe; 12-05-2012 at 10:54 AM.
Lookin good! Does my heart good to see the resto continuing! Be sure you do the heater core while you're in there...
Please post as much pics and info of what work u do as u can it will help others.
95 BMW M3 Alpine-
<GO...JIC Cross Coilovers- UUC RCAB, AKG FCAB, Rogue Engineering TM bushings- AA Gen3 Exhaust- Dinan F&R Strut Bars- Dinan F&R Sway Bars- X-Brace- Mishimoto Rad- BBS RK 17x8"- TRM Chip- Dinan BBTB- DIY CAI- JP Performance Headers- 21.5 injectors- JB Racing Flywheel- Bimmerworld TB boot- 540i MAF><SHOW...OE euro clear exterior lights- Depo w/ HID- Hurricane Alcantara interior- Stereo (Kenwood,Sony,MB Quart,Rockford Fosgate,JL Audio)- Black kidneys- Euro 3 Spoke- ZHP Knob- AutoDim Mirror>
i love these kind of threads. the more pics the better.
engine looks great with painted pieces.
1984 BMW 745i I always know when im boosting because i can feel the seat springs in my back
Looks great! Are you missing the cowl grills? If so I have a spare set.
Nice mess you have going there
IDEAL time to add RCA cables and new speaker wiring for a small amplifier for the stereo.
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
I will have many photos and questions for all of you I am sure. The first is.
1) Hitman you said in a previous post that while I had the dash out I should bypass a silly relay. I am not sure what you were talking about.
2) I am being strongly encouraged to do the heater core while I am at this point. I can see the logic there for sure and there is a good thread on the other board. Looks like a lot but what the heck. Is there any particular core or upgrade I should get or stick with the replacement at Bav Auto? I am going to assume change the heater valve too?
3) finally what about the evaporator? Is there an upgrade for that or should I just clean it up and put it back?
Sic Stang I have the cowl grills, I just have them off the car right now. I am trying to accumulate parts to paint this thing.
Last edited by espoe; 12-08-2012 at 04:43 PM.
It is the OBC module relay, it can fail and leave a no start situation.
Eh, if the core is good I would skip it. It is not that hard to do. I have cooler ways to spend $325. Supposedly there is something that can take the place of the OE unit, not sure how it fits as I have seen no pictures. I am sure a quick search will help.
Yes, upgrade the evap if you plan to drive in the summer in your climate. At least go with the late '85 MY unit that has a No 10 inlet and 8 out. If not, spend the extra and buy a modern design. Place in East Dallas does the modern versions, Euro Air? Or something is their name.
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
You would still have a good bit of work ahead of you to get that box out and swap the heater core... not to mention how expensive the unit is. Like Hitman said, I would skip it unless you suspect it's already leaking.
Well it's not leaking so I guess it's staying. Can I do the evaporator without removing the box?
I know I'm reviving an old thread here, but it's a good thread. How did you get from the first picture to the second one. It's easy to get to the nuts under the dash towards the interior of the car, but how to do you get the ones that are up front? I can see in this picture what they bolt up to, but can't even see how to access that on my car.
Euro '85 635csi E24, '03 E46 325xi wagon 5-speed, '05 325xi sedan 5-speed, '67 VW Bug, '14 F150, '17 Jetta
http://sites.google.com/site/eurobmw635csi/
I figured it out. Dash is out of the car.
Funny you should revive this thread. I get held up right here because of a change in job circumstance that has kept me out of the country to this point. However, I jut bought a great working 745 to enjoy from timgal1234 and will be picking it up soon. Really stoked about that one. Tim is going to swap out a dash I had on hand and change the pods while it's out. Terrific seller and great to be working with him.
In the meantime I am again sourcing parts for this one above. Biggest obstacle I see at the moment is all the window sweeps and rubber with the window trim. Otherwise the car is rust free and a lot of the mechanical work was done though now that it has been sitting, I will have to go through some of it. I'll also look into the heater core, dash lights, and ac stuff since it will be right in front of me.
Were you able to get the dash off without removing most of the interior? Seem like you almost have to start in the trunk!
On the upper side I was able to get the front pillar post covers off without fully removing the upper cover, I just removed the sun visors and clips then pulled it down a little and was able to slide the pillar covers back. The factory manual shows a screw at the top of pillar cover, but I don't think the newer ones have that. Mine did not have the screw there on either side,, and I don't think it has ever been taken apart before.
I removed the rear console, but I don't think that has to come out. As long as you can get the center console out, that's all that matters. I left the seats in the car, but would have pulled them out if they got in the way.
The nuts that I had trouble finding were on the left and right side, close to the vents, and were accessible with a 12" socket extention. They will have to go back on the same way (no way to get your hand up there.
Overall I spent more time reading directions and looking at diagrams on realoem and Google Images than I did actually taking things apart. Now it's time to swap the vent parts over to the new dash and put it all back together.
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