High Revs, car barely moves at cold start

[shadow11]

I have noticed since I got my 04 330ci that after I back out of my driveway in the morning (first start of the day) and put the car in drive that the car doesn't move for a few seconds. The car will rev but barely move like the transmission isn't engaging. It only happens the first cold start of the day and then the car is fine after that. I've done a little searching and it seems others have had the same problem and have narrowed it down to either low transmission fluid or the car needs a software update. The car only has 22k miles but I might just go ahead and change the transmission fluid/filter to see if that fixes the problem. Anybody else have any thoughts?

[Geaukart]

Low fluid.
Check it.

[esberelias]

Could be because its cold and the Tranny fluid (along with engine oil) is still very thick because if the cold. once it warms up its fine again, right?

I too notice that with my car... don't punch it...keep it under 2.5k rpm till the car is at normal operating temps

[shadow11]

Could be because its cold and the Tranny fluid (along with engine oil) is still very thick because if the cold. once it warms up its fine again, right?

I too notice that with my car... don't punch it...keep it under 2.5k rpm till the car is at normal operating temps

Correct the car is fine once it warms up. I don't punch it when its cold. Just when I back it out of the garage and put it in drive and give the car a little gas to get moving the car doesn't move for a few seconds. The car just kind of sits there for a few seconds and then gets going and everything is back to normal.

[anil255]

I changed the ATF recently and my car does the same. I believe its completely normal during cold start.

[PsychoCemia]

This is pretty common on our cars, especially with the GM tranny.

It's possible that the fluid has begun to break down and doesn't have the same cold weather characteristics as when new. It's also possible that you're slightly low on fluid.

In either case, I'd consider either (a) checking the fluid level ; (b) a simple fluid drain/fill; or (c) draining the fluid, dropping the pan, changing the filter, and refilling.

I opted for (c), and my transmission is a million times better in the mornings.

There is also a Service Bulletin out for a reprogram of the transmission module to increase pressure somewhere in the system because of a draining issue (can't recall 100%). I'd definitely check the fluid level and possibly do a drain/fill before trying to get the dealer involved, though.

Dexron VI fluid is what the GM tranny currently calls for (replaced original OEM spec of Dexron III). GM Tranny. GM Spec Fluid. Should be no issues.

If you opt to do a drain/fill, definitely make sure you fill up, then warm up the car, and re-check the level while the car/tranny is warm and running.

Definitely check the level with a hot transmission pan. It SUCKS, though. You'll be cursing up a storm trying to put that bolt back in with hot fluid dripping all over your hands. Even with gloves on, it gets hot.

1) Initial drain/fill.
2) Turn car on, cycle P-R-N-D-N-R-P, etc about 5 times slowly. Takes about 3 minutes. Keep car on.
3) Remove fill bolt, check fluid. I had a good bit to add. Fill, plug.
4) Cycle gears again for a few minutes. Tranny should be pretty warm at this point.
5) Check plug again. Mine had a slow drip. Added nothing. Plug again.
6) Cycle gears again for a few minutes. Tranny is hot.
7) Check plug last time. No drip. Add 1/2 quart. Fluid in solid drip while I plug the fill hole against hot ass fluid.

I had the morning 30-second "cold slipping" issue prior to this, too. Started about 6 weeks ago. Did the drain/filter/fill a month ago. No issues since.

I used RedLine D4 ATF when I did my drain/fill back at 70k miles. Wasn't too happy with it. This time (95k miles) I used WalMart's SuperTech Dexron VI. MUCH BETTER.

[Meric]

Its normal because oil gets thicker as it gets cold..

[ccg]

I have a 325xi with 142,000 miles on it and just recently did the first transmission service the car has seen. I have never had a slipping issue no matter how cold it has been. Hopefully you are just low on fluid, otherwise you will probably need a new tranny.

[shadow4bimmer]

I have a 325xi with 142,000 miles on it and just recently did the first transmission service the car has seen. I have never had a slipping issue no matter how cold it has been. Hopefully you are just low on fluid, otherwise you will probably need a new tranny.

Not really, his tranny is fine. Maybe a little low on fluid, but no problem if he lets it warm up before pushing it.

[shadow11]

Thanks for the replies! Ill check the fluid level this weekend and top it off and see if that fixes it.

Not really, his tranny is fine. Maybe a little low on fluid, but no problem if he lets it warm up before pushing it.

Yea the tranny is fine other than the slight hesitation when its cold. Plus my car only has 22k miles so the tranny better not be going out yet lol

[Myke451]

My 325ci (100k - fluid changed @ 78k) just started doing this about 2 weeks ago (I've had it for 3 years). I took it to the dealer and my own indy and neither mentioned a drain and fill. I've been in contact with someone else that has an 03 325ci and he said the drain-fill-software update didn't work.
This is an annoying problem that I don't consider to be part of the normal operation of any transmission. Puts a damper on the "joy of ownership".

[BimmerBunny78]

Did anyone find a resolution to this issue? I have a E46 325 with 55k miles on it that does this as well. Car runs perfectly fine except when first starting. Even when letting it warm up, the first time I put it in drive it BARELY inches forward. Once it gets going it drives normally. Car has just been completely serviced and fluids are all new and topped off.

[dhurley34]

It is a defect in the first gear clutch pack. The sealing tolerances are not machined tight enough and causes fluid to bleed off after sitting for a few hours. The software update speeds up line pressure to engage faster. Sometimes that fixes it, sometimes it doesnt.

My advice would be to put the car in drive with your foot on the brake until the rpms drop, then proceed normally.

[bmwbob89]

See if your car falls in the bulletin parameters. I just bought a 04 325ix with 280k and the software fixed it. Cheap and easy fix to try. Let me see if I can attach the bulletin.

This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B24 07 03 dated November 2004.
designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
GM5: Delayed P to D Engagement on Cold Start
MODEL
E46 with GM5: 325iA, 325xiA, 325xiTA, 330xiA from 10/02 up to 12/03
E46 with GM5: 325CiA, 325CicA, 330iA, 330CiA, 330CicA, 330i (HP), 325iTA from 03/03 up to
12/03
E53 X5 3.0iA with GM5 from 10/02 up to 12/03
SITUATION
The customer may complain of delayed P to D engagement (2 to 30 seconds) during the first cold start
in the morning.
CAUSE
Insufficient pressure boost for the C1 forward clutch during the first Park to Drive shift after extended
(overnight) parking.
CORRECTION
On a customer complaint basis only, reprogram the EGS control module using the "Manual entry"
Important:
It is not necessary to replace the automatic transmission for this type of complaint.
PROCEDURE
To reprogram the EGS control module using the "Manual Entry" method:
1. Connect a BMW approved battery charger to the vehicle.
2. Start a programming session, using the latest version of Progman, and select the appropriate series
vehicle.
3. Select "Load Software" and answer "No" to the prompt if modules have been replaced.
4. Select: EGS / Programming / Manual Entry from the column on the right of the screen.
5. Enter the programmed and basic numbers from the listings below, beginning with the
programmed number first.
SI B 24 07 03
Automatic Transmissions
April 2008
Technical Services
Page 1 of 3
http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/tiscode/c...ins/htm_store/... 5/1/2008
IMPORTANT:
The basic and programmed control module numbers depend on the production model year of the vehicle
(MY '03 or MY '04) and DME version (MS43 or MS45.1) in the case of the 325i. The vehicle's model
year can be easily located in the VIN: the TENTH digit from the LEFT side indicates a production
model year (e.g., in WBABW33424 PL29106, the tenth digit 4 indicates MY '04).
6. Enter the new part number of the programmed EGS control unit first, using the Progman screen
keyboard.
Enter for MY '03 325i from 10/02 up to 03/03 (with MS43): 7 546 850
Enter for MY '03 325i from 03/03 up to 09/03 (with MS45.1): 7 546 838
Enter for MY '04 325i: 7 546 862 .
Enter for MY '03 330i: 7 546 836 .
Enter for MY '04 330i: 7 546 858 .
Enter for MY '04 330i HP (Performance Package): 7 546 860 .
NOTE: Performance Package (HP) 330i vehicles are equipped with a modified M54 engine (235 hp),
modified suspension with a shorter rear axle ratio, and MSport body trim.
Enter for MY '03 325xi: 7 546 848 .
Enter for MY '04 325xi: 7 546 872 .
Enter for MY '03 330xi: 7 546 842 .
Enter for MY '04 330xi: 7 546 866 .
Enter for MY '03 X5 3.0: 7 546 834 .
Enter for MY '04 X5 3.0: 7 546 856,
7. Enter the basic control unit part number at the next Progman screen keyboard entry.
Enter for MY '03 325i from 10/02 up to 03/03 (with MS43): 7 518 709
Enter for MY '03 325i from 03/03 up to 09/03 (with MS45.1): 7 526 396
Enter for MY '03 330i: 7 526 396
Enter for MY '04 325i, 330i and 330i (HP): 7 532 988
Enter for MY '03 325xi, 330xi and X5 3.0i: 7 518 709
Page 2 of 3
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Enter for MY '04 325xi, 330xi and X5 3.0i: 7 532 988 ,
8. Clear the adaptation values using the GT1 loaded with the latest diagnostic DVD.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
Defect Code: 24 00 33 98 00
Labor Operation: Labor Allowance: Description:
00 00 005* Refer to KSD Interrogating Fault memory in diagnosis
+24 61 504 Refer to KSD Programming EGS control unit
*Main Work - use this labor operation number when this is the only repair being performed,
or if this is the main repair when performed along with other repairs at the same time. If this
is not the main repair, refer to KSD for the associated (+) labor operation code.
[ Copyright © 2008 BMW of North America, LLC ]
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[Charlie78]

I bought a 2004 330 ci m sport package back in May with 208000 km. I do have the same problem as you guys with the delayed gear engagement on cold start. I took it in for transmission fluid change and didn't fix it. So my only hope is to take it in to the dealer and do a software update and see what happens. I live in Canada and we have pretty long winters here. Any idea if winter makes it even longer to get the car warm up an be able to drive it? I'm planning to take the car in soon for a software update. I really hope it will fix it because I absolutely love this car.

[dhurley34]

I bought a 2004 330 ci m sport package back in May with 208000 km. I do have the same problem as you guys with the delayed gear engagement on cold start. I took it in for transmission fluid change and didn't fix it. So my only hope is to take it in to the dealer and do a software update and see what happens. I live in Canada and we have pretty long winters here. Any idea if winter makes it even longer to get the car warm up an be able to drive it? I'm planning to take the car in soon for a software update. I really hope it will fix it because I absolutely love this car.

If you read my earlier post, sometimes the software update doesn't solve it. However, this issue does no damage and yes winter does affect it more. You don't have to wait for the car to warm up, you simply put it in drive with your foot on the brake and wait for the rpms to drop, then operate as normal.