Engine Seized

[jack0289]

Hi everyone,
Yesterday while I was driving the yellow oil light came on, so I stopped and checked the oil level, it was a little low, so I added oil to the proper level. The next morning I started the car and went inside, about 10 mins later the car was off, I tried starting it but the engine didn't turn.

I pushed the car in the garage and replace the oil, there was about 5 quarts of oil in the engine. No idea where the 2 other quarts of oil went, there went any puddles where the car was parked.

With the new oil I tried starting the car, but the same thing happened, the engine didn't turn. At first I thought it was the battery or the starter but it wasn't, because I tried turning the crankshaft manually with a wrench, it only turned a quarter clockwise and a quarter counterclockwise. Therefore concluding that the engine seized .

Also the coolant level was fine and it was -25f outside when I started it, so the engine didn't overheat.

So my question is, are there any other diagnostic tests I could run?
Thanks for any advice

[Devlon]

Well my experience is highly limited to this particular motor do to how reliable my vehicle performed. If you turn the crank at all your not siezed. if its siezed you are not moving anything.

I would suggest pulling the plugs to garuntee there is no pressure on any of the cylinders. Then try turning the motor. However I am not 100% on how the vanos system operates if it is hydralic which from looking at the piping on my engine its hydro mechanical. Then you may not have the strength to over come the pressure required to turn the motor past that point. I would throw an amp clamp on that big fat wire that runs from "jump" post on the passenger side of the car down through the intake manifold cloeser to the rear of the car, to see if the starter is drawing any amps. Have some one turn the car over once everone is clear from any danger. if no amps are drawn possibilities are reduced. could be a bad starter or starter solenoid. If really high amps starter is likely ok but something worse is the problem

[nico16]

Hydro lock

Hydro locked engine?

[jack0289]

Thanks Develon, it's awesome to hear that the engine is not seized.
I'll try testing it.

[dukedkt442]

If you have good compression, you probably wouldn't be able to turn the engine more than a couple.degrees with a wrench. 5 quarts of oil, while low for the sump, should still be plenty sufficient to lube an idling engine. My guess is the alternator went, and then the car ran on an already cold-weakened battery until there wasn't enough voltage to power the fuel pump. Get out the voltmeter and start trouble-shooting the electronics, then figure out where that oil went.

[bmwbob89]

Pull the plugs before you bend a rod. If its hydro locked you will do damage with the spark plugs in. Pull them and turn it with a wrench. If you crank it with the starter there is going to be oil everywhere. Sounds like a ccv valve issue.

[Justin517]

Did the oil level or oil pressure light come on? When you turn it and it stops, is it a solid clunk and it stops dead? Out does it get harder to turn and you just stopped on your own but maybe could have gone farther if you had more leverage?

If it was the oil pressure light, adding oil won't do anything, you possibly lost the oil pump gear, either the nut fell off or the shaft broke. It its a known issue on the m54.

I'm not sure why everyone is saying its hydro locked... Unless his driveway is a river, starting it and letting it idle can't really introduce liquid in the intake tract.

[bmwbob89]

failed CCV system lets the engine suck oil into the cylinders and hydro lock. Especially if the sludge freezes and plugs the system. I've seen it too many times.

[GoingNuts]

At first I thought it was the battery or the starter but it wasn't, because I tried turning the crankshaft manually with a wrench, it only turned a quarter clockwise and a quarter counterclockwise.

So where did this battery testing technique come from?

[jack0289]

Thanks everyone. One thing I did not mention is that the night before the engine problem I drove to another city which was about 100 miles. The oil might of leaked out during the trip. Currently I can't test anything because I am 100 miles away from the car. I'll be testing it and ordering parts as soon as the semester ends (in about 2 weeks). I'll keep you guys updated.

Did the oil level or oil pressure light come on? When you turn it and it stops, is it a solid clunk and it stops dead? Out does it get harder to turn and you just stopped on your own but maybe could have gone farther if you had more leverage?

If it was the oil pressure light, adding oil won't do anything, you possibly lost the oil pump gear, either the nut fell off or the shaft broke. It its a known issue on the m54.

I'm not sure why everyone is saying its hydro locked... Unless his driveway is a river, starting it and letting it idle can't really introduce liquid in the intake tract.

Yes the yellow oil light did light up the day before, that's when I added oil. By oil pressure light you mean that the red oil light came on?

Yes, when I tried turning it, the motor made a solid clunk and stopped dead.

failed CCV system lets the engine suck oil into the cylinders and hydro lock. Especially if the sludge freezes and plugs the system. I've seen it too many times.

So if the engine is hydro locked what damages can I expect. Does the engine have to be replaced?

If you have good compression, you probably wouldn't be able to turn the engine more than a couple.degrees with a wrench. 5 quarts of oil, while low for the sump, should still be plenty sufficient to lube an idling engine. My guess is the alternator went, and then the car ran on an already cold-weakened battery until there wasn't enough voltage to power the fuel pump. Get out the voltmeter and start trouble-shooting the electronics, then figure out where that oil went.

I might of over estimated the amount of oil there was in the car, it was closer to 3 quarters. The battery was replaced a couple of weeks ago, with the best one O'Reilly had, they guaranteed that the battery will withstand the Alaskan winters.

So where did this battery testing technique come from ?

Maybe

[bmwbob89]

There may be a bent rod but it doesn't always happen. The more you tried to crank it the better the chance one bent. You have to diagnose the no turn over problem first and move on from there. If a rod is bent it may be cheaper to find a used motor. How many miles are on the car?

[jack0289]

There may be a bent rod but it doesn't always happen. The more you tried to crank it the better the chance one bent. You have to diagnose the no turn over problem first and move on from there. If a rod is bent it may be cheaper to find a used motor. How many miles are on the car?

It stinks not being able to test it right now. It has around 75000 miles on it

[Devlon]

You may want to see if the auto stores rent out bores copes where you live. Testo make a really nice one that comes with a 90 degree angled mirror. Pull the plugs drop the camera in and you can see if you have a bent valve. But start with the simple things first. Dukedkt may very well be right 75k cold climate conditions. Did you notice if the radio still worked or had any interior lighting. -25f I'm sure the blower motor was running for the heat.

[jack0289]

You may want to see if the auto stores rent out bores copes where you live. Testo make a really nice one that comes with a 90 degree angled mirror. Pull the plugs drop the camera in and you can see if you have a bent valve. But start with the simple things first. Dukedkt may very well be right 75k cold climate conditions. Did you notice if the radio still worked or had any interior lighting. -25f I'm sure the blower motor was running for the heat.

Yeap, the radio worked.

[JCooper]

If you have good compression, you probably wouldn't be able to turn the engine more than a couple.degrees with a wrench. 5 quarts of oil, while low for the sump, should still be plenty sufficient to lube an idling engine. My guess is the alternator went, and then the car ran on an already cold-weakened battery until there wasn't enough voltage to power the fuel pump. Get out the voltmeter and start trouble-shooting the electronics, then figure out where that oil went.

My compression was 205 - hi190's for psi across the board and easily rotated the crank over when doing a bottom end refresh. Figured id mention it!

[jack0289]

I did some research on engines that were hydro locked, and in my case it seems that the only thing that might of caused the engine to hydro lock, is a failed ccv valve. The only problem is that the engine ran fine and I did not notice any of the symptoms of a bad ccv valve:

1)"honking" sound off idle due to a torn diaphragm internal to the valve.

2) positive or high negative crankcase pressure that's noticeable at idle removing the oil fill cap and hearing the sound change with RPM drop.

3) excessive oil use and blue exhaust smoke may occur when the unit fails and passes oil into the intake stream as sputtering oil droplets make their way to combustion. This condition is too much negative pressure tested by stretching and sealing a cutting of food wrap plastic across the oil fill neck. At idle, the plastic should deflect slightly inwards. If it pulls hard suspect the CCV. If in puffs upward, that's excessive positive pressure. Shops have a proper bar-meter tool for this but the Saran Wrap test works. //White Knuckles2

[Devlon]

This is all true to my knowledge. But we won't know anything for certain until you are next to you're car again. Where did the oil go? If theres no puddles and no apparent leaks on the motor. looking at the plugs (and the tail pipe)will be a dead give away if burning it. My guess at hydro lock was just a guess. It was due to the lack of oil and being able to turn the crank only 90 degrees forwards. Hydro locking will stop a motor dead and you can Usually rotate backwards the same amount because your relieving cylinder pressure. That's why I suggest pulling the plugs. And then trying to rotate the engine. If you can fully rotate then great if you can't. You may have spun a main bearing due to the lack of oil.

The reason I asked about the lighting and the electronics is if dukes theory about loosing the alternator held any water. then nothing would have worked due to an overly dead battery. But if the radio was still on the chances are it wasn't a bad
battery or alt.

Your going to be home in a week? Check it out and post back.
Do you still get Internet that far north? Lol

You also may want to repost this under the http: //forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=145 forum as well to help you get ideas on what to check.

[jack0289]

This is all true to my knowledge. But we won't know anything for certain until you are next to you're car again. Where did the oil go? If theres no puddles and no apparent leaks on the motor. looking at the plugs (and the tail pipe)will be a dead give away if burning it. My guess at hydro lock was just a guess. It was due to the lack of oil and being able to turn the crank only 90 degrees forwards. Hydro locking will stop a motor dead and you can Usually rotate backwards the same amount because your relieving cylinder pressure. That's why I suggest pulling the plugs. And then trying to rotate the engine. If you can fully rotate then great if you can't. You may have spun a main bearing due to the lack of oil.

The reason I asked about the lighting and the electronics is if dukes theory about loosing the alternator held any water. then nothing would have worked due to an overly dead battery. But if the radio was still on the chances are it wasn't a bad
battery or alt.

Your going to be home in a week? Check it out and post back.
Do you still get Internet that far north? Lol

You also may want to repost this under the http: //forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=145 forum as well to help you get ideas on what to check.

I'll be home on December 15th, have to stay in Fairbanks for a little longer to finish up some projects. Also I am waiting for the weather to warm up, it was -56f a couple days ago, right now it's about -35f, which isn't bad.

Lol, yeah we have internet up here, it's really slow.

[jack0289]

Okay I am back home working on the car. So far I've pulled the spark plugs and tried turning the crankshaft with a wrench. I was able to make full turn (oil spit out during the process).
What should I do next? Should I put the spark plugs back in and try starting it?

[dodge408]

Oil spit out? From where?

[jack0289]

Oil spit out? From where?

Yeap, it spit out from the cylinders where the spark plugs were.

[jack0289]

What's the best way to remove oil from the combustion chamber?

[dodge408]

Not sure you should have oil there, blown head gasket is probably what you have or crack on the interior of the block

[bmwbob89]

The CCV or hoses had crud in them and froze. Then the engine can't breath and sucks all of the oil out of the block and into the intake. Cover the spark plug holes with many paper towels and then put something on them to keep them down. Crank it and the oil will be blasted out of the cylinders. Make sure the spark plugs are out. You are going to have a huge mess to clean up after. I would even close the hood. I've seen the oil fly right across the shop if you don't cover it up. Also check the dipstick tube for crud as it freezes in there too. There is an updated tube to help with the problem. Then you ahve to replace all of the CCV valve and hoses.

[BMWtech6367]

jack0289, listen to bmwbob89. He knows what he is talking about. These other guys are either overthinking the situation, or they are not in tune with the way BMW's crankcase vent system operates. bmwbob89 is spot on. I've been a BMW tech for almost 30 years & this is a CLASSIC case of CCV failure...