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Thread: TOURING/WAGON owners: question about tailgate lifts

  1. #26
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    It does seem high, but most of us have old struts. If this was done with oe parts, that might be right. The height is based on the strut length and rod travel.
    99 540iT, Jet Black on Black. Dinan mods ( CAI, MAF, TB, Brace, Stage 4 engine and tranny software ). 00 750iL, Jet Black on Black. MPars, Sport Steering wheel, alpina replica lip. 05 Mini S, Dinan CAI, Strut brace, UUC exhaust.

  2. #27
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    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by djkev View Post
    so I took a quick vid of the trunk popping this morning(click on pic):
    Thats not as bad as i thought but still doesn't look right and not like mine w all new struts working perfectly. Mine just "clicks" open by the smallest amount, not that "pop-sproing" you got goin.

    Id take vids for you but on biz trip away from car.

    Quote Originally Posted by djkev View Post
    and a photo of it all the way open. Does this seem abnormally high? I can barely reach it now.
    Im not sure it does... Looks about right to me? You grab it using the inside pull down slot-handle, right? i still think you got something not connected. Mine w 4 new oem struts is nowhere near heavy, easy enough for a child to do.

    You never answered my question about your glass - how smoothly does it open?
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Thats not as bad as i thought but still doesn't look right and not like mine w all new struts working perfectly. Mine just "clicks" open by the smallest amount, not that "pop-sproing" you got goin.
    I'd agree. Looks like something under tension that shouldn't be under tension. Mine unlatches and I lift it. Yours also looks like it's higher than mine, which might be a logical consequence of an over adjustment when closed. Of course, looking at the Bentley, I see no adjustment points; only the lift cylinders. I wonder if they are adjustable or if you have the correct ones.

    C.R. Krieger #53302

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Thats not as bad as i thought but still doesn't look right and not like mine w all new struts working perfectly. Mine just "clicks" open by the smallest amount, not that "pop-sproing" you got goin.

    Id take vids for you but on biz trip away from car.



    Im not sure it does... Looks about right to me? You grab it using the inside pull down slot-handle, right? i still think you got something not connected. Mine w 4 new oem struts is nowhere near heavy, easy enough for a child to do.

    You never answered my question about your glass - how smoothly does it open?
    the glass is a bit sticky.... it's not as smooth as it once was before. Car is going back on monday to have them adjust the hatch

  5. #30
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    I just replaced the four liftgate shocks. I have to say, I think the procedure is a little more complicated than some of the posters have suggested. It took me about five hours. Now that I know how to do it, I would say its a 1.5 hour procedure. Noodle and Sam lent me the BMW tools. Without those tools it seems like a very difficult procedure. Some complications to look out for:

    1. With the LARGE shock, the BMW tool has to be leveraged in the "pin boss" where the pin used to be before you removed it. With the tool leveraged at that point you can pry up the large shock. Unfortunately, there is not a whole lot keeping the BMW tool in place in the "pin boss" so you find yourself pushing down while simultaneously pushing the tool INTO the "pin boss." Vice grips to pinch the BMW tool and keep it from slipping out of the pin boss may be recommended.

    2. Getting the SMALL shock out with the plastic BMW tool is pretty easy but I had some difficulty getting the new shocks back in. I finally discovered the problem was that the new shocks, strangely, had a little spring pin around the lip of the ball joint. This is in ADDITION to the regular spring pin INSIDE the ball joint that keeps the ball secured on the socket. I'm not sure why the second exterior pin was there there except perhaps it is used in other non-BMW applications where you can pop the shock in and AFTER IT's IN PLACE, re-install this little extra pin like a second level of precaution. I bought a non-German non-OEM brand of small shocks from Pelican Parts, so perhaps the OEM brand small shock does not have this issue. ANyway it took me about an hour or two of pushing and pushing and frustration and trying weird little techniques (that didn't work) to finally figure out that the ball did not fit because of this extraneous pin. Once I removed it, the shock popped into place nicely.

    3. While I can see how it might be possible to remove the shocks with a long screwdriver, it seems like it might be quite difficult to get the shocks properly in place with the ball socket facing in the correct position without the BMW tools. As far as getting the LARGE shock in place, even with the BMW tools it's practically impossible to see what is going on inside the trunk mechanism. After a while you begin to be able to visualize in your mind what you're doing through touch and enough trial and error. But god help people who try this without the BMW tool or with a good gerry-rigged substitute.

    Hoped this was helpful. And thanks again toe NoodleandSam!

    Douglas

  6. #31
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Sorry to hear it took so long, Doug but congrats on it being done.

    FWIW see my previous post about doing it w/o the tool. From sounds of it my way is a lot easier than using the official tools! I guess i would say a few little tricks like thinking ahead about getting the shock off/on the pin is the key - and using a true long prybar as i did is prob lot better than a screwdriver might be. From your report I think I'll advise people to go the non-tool way as it was really pretty easy and no time wasted d1ckin around w the tools! ;^}
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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post

      1. Putting the big ones back in then to reverse order... Slip the strut into the cavity, put the pin in the bracket / lever FIRST, then work the socket over the ball and rest there ready to be snapped in. You can really tell easily when it's sitting on the ball waiting to be snapped down. This is NOT as tricky as it sounds/looks - it might take a little jiggling but if you're at all handy it's really easy. Then gently slip your pry/driver/thing down over the far end and a solid pry should give you a satisfying snap into place.
    Thanks so much for these simple instructions! It took me about 3 hours with a few breaks here and there. It's not hard, just a bit fiddly with the plastic trim pieces. I'll add one tip about reassembling the the hatch struts back on as quoted above. If your first attempt to snap them back on the ball is not working, take out the pin, then move the strut forward/backward until it seats better on the ball, then raise/lower the hatch a bit until the pin lines up and the put it back in. Once everything is lined up properly it's pretty easy to pop it in with a long bar. THe Harbor Freight pry bars worked great!
    Last edited by KRUZNBY; 04-03-2015 at 08:55 PM.

  8. #33
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    Great! Congrats. Yeah it's one of those jobs where the first time might seem a bit tricky but once you figure it out you could knock it out for somebody else in 1/2 the time. And special tools a waste of time and money really, aside from maybe the homebrew PVC tube trick...
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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  9. #34
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    I just used 2 really long a$$ flat blade screwdrivers to do the replacements. It's very testy, will def try your patience, but it can be done. And man, is it a joy not having the tailgate fall on your head anymore.

  10. #35
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    I was shocked that the tailgate almost lifts by itself now. Also it will be harder to slam shut as tends to happen with the better half no matter how many times I tell her not to.

  11. #36
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    I had a piece of 1" by 1/4" flat stock that worked awesome to pop the old struts off. Just slide it under and twist. A pry bar with a slight kink in the end worked great to install the new struts on the ball.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by CKreations View Post
    I had a piece of 1" by 1/4" flat stock that worked awesome to pop the old struts off. Just slide it under and twist. A pry bar with a slight kink in the end worked great to install the new struts on the ball.
    Yeah, I did this job a few weeks back, I had seen those posts Geargrinder referred too that talk about removing the headliner.....totally the wrong way. Fiddling with the trim is the hardest part, I too used a long prybar that not only has a decent kink in it but it has a fairly wide flat end that really aids in being able to twist to apply pressure. Whole job front to back was probably 90 minutes. Geargrinders write up is the way to go.
    ~Kelly Roy

    2000 528iT
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  13. #38
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    Did mine today.
    No special tools required. I used a pry bar to pop off the old struts.
    I did one side at a time.
    I used a long screwdriver zip tied to the shock to align the ball socket end.
    When I got it in position I used the pry tool to pop it on.
    After the socket was on I slid the screwdriver out.
    Then slid off now loose zip tie.
    I will always own a BMW.

  14. #39
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8r4aa View Post
    Did mine today.
    No special tools required. I used a pry bar to pop off the old struts.
    I did one side at a time.
    I used a long screwdriver zip tied to the shock to align the ball socket end.
    When I got it in position I used the pry tool to pop it on.
    After the socket was on I slid the screwdriver out.
    Then slid off now loose zip tie.
    Yep. There's a lot of workaround ways to skin this cat w/o the "tools". If I thought I'd ever do it again / more than once maybe I'd make a PVC tool like some have. Maybe. Maybe not bother still.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

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  15. #40
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    Could someone make a video about how the whole liftgate works when the shocks are replaced? ( not a video about how to replace the shocks)
    0

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrFlam View Post
    Could someone make a video about how the whole liftgate works when the shocks are replaced? ( not a video about how to replace the shocks)
    0
    ???

    you need a video to show you somebody pushing the button and lifting the tailgate?
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

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  17. #42
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    Thank you for such a great recap GearGrinder.

    I think I will be able to handle changing out the shocks after reading everyone's input.
    And hopefully not have another concussion...

    Was wondering if anyone knows of an economical OEM website I'd be able to order the shocks from. Or be able to receive a BMWCCA discount.
    I drive a 2003 BMW 525i Touring.

    Thank you all for your insight!!!!
    Hope you all have a wonderful holiday and New Year!!
    Last edited by soonersoon; 12-27-2015 at 02:56 PM.

  18. #43
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    To reiterate - this is not difficult. A little trial and error and a little patience are all you need. I had this done in less than two hours and one of those hours was spent semi-participating in a work conference call. I have no further advice to lend to the discussion except to quit stalling due to lack of courage like I did. I put this off for almost a year and I would've been enjoying my touring SO much more if I had just done it early on.

    Thanks GearGrinder for the writeup - yet again your knowledge has made a difference in my day-to-day BMW lifestyle.
    '88 535is & '99 540iT6

  19. #44
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Ha ha yeah, def an easy one. No prob. There's other jobs like the blower motor and the sunroof (my current nemesis) that are "not NEARLY as bad as people say once you've done it once or twice before..." yet still are a not insignificant projects. Like the blower, some guys claim is a full day or more, big hassle etc. When really its not that bad and with the right tools prepped and experience in what to look for you can knock it out in 3-4hrs.

    This is not even one of those. This is eazypeez.

    Unless you read the horrible post that comes up in google that says to drop the headliner. Ha!

    Speaking of which - Hey! My headliner is out right now, maybe I'll go look at what is under there... just out of curiousity
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by KnudsonsM3 View Post
    Does anyone know the cheapest place I can buy these?
    Ebay.de item number 151695128506 $114 + $20 shipping for a full set.

    Even less $

    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...128506&alt=web
    Last edited by Plattus1000; 06-27-2017 at 03:00 AM.

  21. #46
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    Touring wagon Tailgate

    Hi I am from the Philippines.

    Can anyone direct me where i can buy the tailgate shocks for my 97 touring wagon please..

  22. #47
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    I bought both of mine from Rock auto.
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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by igot5s View Post
    Hi I am from the Philippines.

    Can anyone direct me where i can buy the tailgate shocks for my 97 touring wagon please..
    There are several vendors in the US who sell reliable sets for different prices. I don't know what the shipping would be to the Philippines.

    $114 is a good price for all four Stabilus brand. Cheaper struts will fail after a couple of years.

    2003 540iT M-Sport in Myrtle Beach SC
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