I had a HF "Chicago Electric" auto-darkening helmet. It seemed like a deal that was too good to be true at about $40. I intended to use it for TIG. Turns out it was too good to be true. It is not appropriate for TIG welding (at least at lower amperage). It will darken when striking an arc, but the shade will turn off when you start to back off the pedal after forming a puddle. Finding yourself suddenly staring at an arc through the #4 shade from about a foot away is no fun. I was using 45A DC up to 100A AC and had the same problem no matter what.
If you want a variable shade auto-darkening helmet for TIG you're probably going to have to spend more than $100.
For TIG you need a high quality auto darkening helmet. The HF auto darkening helmet and Wel-built model auto darkening helmets on Northern tool dont work well for TIG. I use a lower end auto darkening helmet for MIG and its fine though.
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I've used mine with tig with no problem. AC and DC.
here is a review on the northern tools one which I believe is the same
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUhD63fmB-k&feature=related[/ame]
Last edited by someguy2800; 10-15-2012 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Was practicing some steel last night and man I like the WP-9 over the WP-17
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With the miller diversion 180 can you hook up a water cooled torch to it? Will it help increase your duty cycle time? Ive never used a water cooled setup i'd like to hear more to see if its worth it or not for me.
Last edited by M3equalslife; 10-16-2012 at 11:29 AM.
You can modify it to run a standalone watercooler and torch yes, but it won't increase your DC because the DC is based on the components in the machine. I'll be honest though I was chugging along at 125A on AC for a while the other night and had no issues. Definitely longer than 2 mins of weld time.
I've been using 1.5% 1/16" lanthanated (gold band) on .060 aluminum sheet at school. It runs decently but doesn't seem to handle more than ~70A very well. I've run around 100A before and that seems to be near its limit for AC.
Ceriated is better for Al (AC) because it more readily accepts electrons during the reverse polarity portion of the wave (according to my instructor).
Lanthanated is great for steel though, especially stainless. It keeps a point really well.
To the guys who have had success TIG welding with the cheap-o AD helmets: What is the lowest max amperage you're running? Are you welding sheet metal or thicker stuff?
For welding on body sheetmetal with a MIG, what settings do people use. Still trying to dial this in myself.
What wire diameter do you use as well?
Thanks.
use .023" wire and play with the amperage and feed on a scrap piece to see what your welder likes. You will need to weld small overlapping tack welds. Don't try to weld a bead as you will just melt through and warp the panel. Work around the panel in different places so you don't build up too much heat in one area. Set the amperage and feed so that you get a nice round penetrated weld with about .5 - 1 secound of weld time per tack.
like this
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsDxqb2p5OM[/ame]
Thanks!
I am looking to buy my first TIG machine and wondering if any of you guys could give me some advice. I have logged a few hundred hours on a water cooled Lincoln precision tig 275 and love that machine. My only current welder is a 120v mig which is fine for some stuff but just wont do most of my tasks. I am going to try and stick to Lincoln welders as I can get a good discount on new Lincolns.
I will mainly be doing exhaust, turbo manifolds, engine mounts and crossmembers. so nothing over 1/4" thickness. I also want the capability to do aluminum but not worried about the thickness capacity of that.
I have been looking at the Precision TIG 225 with out the water cooler. I dont have the money to buy one with a cooler at the moment and for the 10-15 hours a month I am going to use it I cant see the need.
I have been looking at used machines but for a clean, low hours one I can almost buy a new one with my discount.
Any advice?
What is your budget?
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Question for you guys. The cost of a TIG is just plain out of my price range right now...I'd like to make my own manifold and I have a MIG already, is there ANY acceptable material or method to making a manifold with a MIG? Or is it just that the weld quality/control with a MIG is not up to par and the welds will fail faster?
I saw at least one guy in this thread using mild steel but i'm not sure if it was made with a MIG or TIG? I don't care if it doesn't look pretty as long as it functions.
I've fabricated my downpipe and exhaust on my car with my MIG and although I still have a lot to learn, I love welding and would like to do as much of it as possible.
Last edited by Talperian; 10-21-2012 at 12:41 AM.
Last edited by DUDMD; 10-21-2012 at 01:55 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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