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Thread: Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

  1. #176
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    I had a HF "Chicago Electric" auto-darkening helmet. It seemed like a deal that was too good to be true at about $40. I intended to use it for TIG. Turns out it was too good to be true. It is not appropriate for TIG welding (at least at lower amperage). It will darken when striking an arc, but the shade will turn off when you start to back off the pedal after forming a puddle. Finding yourself suddenly staring at an arc through the #4 shade from about a foot away is no fun. I was using 45A DC up to 100A AC and had the same problem no matter what.
    If you want a variable shade auto-darkening helmet for TIG you're probably going to have to spend more than $100.

  2. #177
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    havn't had an issue with mine


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  3. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    havn't had an issue with mine
    When did you purchase yours? I bought mine in June 2011. If there's a chance they have changed it since then (or I just got a bad one) I'd probably buy another. can always return it (again) if i run into the same issues.

  4. #179
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    it would have been spring 2010


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  5. #180
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    For TIG you need a high quality auto darkening helmet. The HF auto darkening helmet and Wel-built model auto darkening helmets on Northern tool dont work well for TIG. I use a lower end auto darkening helmet for MIG and its fine though.

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  6. #181
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    I've used mine with tig with no problem. AC and DC.

    here is a review on the northern tools one which I believe is the same

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUhD63fmB-k&feature=related[/ame]
    Last edited by someguy2800; 10-15-2012 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  7. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    I've used mine with tig with no problem. AC and DC.

    here is a review on the northern tools one which I believe is the same

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUhD6...eature=related
    +1

    I've used the Chicago Electric auto darkening helmet for over a year now on a Miller synchrowave TIG. No problems.
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  8. #183
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    I have a miller elite and will never wear anything else, its an amazing helmet.

  9. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1980corvette View Post
    looks like i know what i'm going to buy with my 20% coupon at Harbor Freight lol (a good idea for a thread would be a Harbor Freight junk v not junk even though you can probably tell three quarters of the time if its junk or not)

    Just do a google search. There are lots of threads like that, just not on this forum.

  10. #185
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    Was practicing some steel last night and man I like the WP-9 over the WP-17


    WP-9 Torch vs. 17 nozzle by Jon Kensy, on Flickr

  11. #186
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    With the miller diversion 180 can you hook up a water cooled torch to it? Will it help increase your duty cycle time? Ive never used a water cooled setup i'd like to hear more to see if its worth it or not for me.
    Last edited by M3equalslife; 10-16-2012 at 11:29 AM.

  12. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by M3equalslife View Post
    With the miller diversion 180 can you hook up a water cooled torch to it? Will it help increase your duty cycle time?
    You can modify it to run a standalone watercooler and torch yes, but it won't increase your DC because the DC is based on the components in the machine. I'll be honest though I was chugging along at 125A on AC for a while the other night and had no issues. Definitely longer than 2 mins of weld time.

  13. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    Was practicing some steel last night and man I like the WP-9 over the WP-17
    WP-9 with a medium back cap and #7 lens is a winning combination for welding steel, they give you the 17 to handle higher amps for alum. What tungston are you using?

  14. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTrace View Post
    WP-9 with a medium back cap and #7 lens is a winning combination for welding steel, they give you the 17 to handle higher amps for alum. What tungston are you using?
    I run a WP-9 for steel/stainless w/ #6 and #7 using 1/16" ceriated tungsten. When I do aluminum I run a WP-17 w/ a #7 or #8 running 3/32" ceriated tungsten. Both setups I run gas lenses on.

  15. #190
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    Give Lanthanated a shot if you get a chance.

  16. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTrace View Post
    Give Lanthanated a shot if you get a chance.
    I think I have some. Ceriated seems to work really well especially on inverter machines.

  17. #192
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    I've been using 1.5% 1/16" lanthanated (gold band) on .060 aluminum sheet at school. It runs decently but doesn't seem to handle more than ~70A very well. I've run around 100A before and that seems to be near its limit for AC.
    Ceriated is better for Al (AC) because it more readily accepts electrons during the reverse polarity portion of the wave (according to my instructor).
    Lanthanated is great for steel though, especially stainless. It keeps a point really well.

    To the guys who have had success TIG welding with the cheap-o AD helmets: What is the lowest max amperage you're running? Are you welding sheet metal or thicker stuff?

  18. #193
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    For welding on body sheetmetal with a MIG, what settings do people use. Still trying to dial this in myself.

    What wire diameter do you use as well?

    Thanks.
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  19. #194
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    use .023" wire and play with the amperage and feed on a scrap piece to see what your welder likes. You will need to weld small overlapping tack welds. Don't try to weld a bead as you will just melt through and warp the panel. Work around the panel in different places so you don't build up too much heat in one area. Set the amperage and feed so that you get a nice round penetrated weld with about .5 - 1 secound of weld time per tack.

    like this

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsDxqb2p5OM[/ame]


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  20. #195
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    Thanks!
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  21. #196
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    I am looking to buy my first TIG machine and wondering if any of you guys could give me some advice. I have logged a few hundred hours on a water cooled Lincoln precision tig 275 and love that machine. My only current welder is a 120v mig which is fine for some stuff but just wont do most of my tasks. I am going to try and stick to Lincoln welders as I can get a good discount on new Lincolns.

    I will mainly be doing exhaust, turbo manifolds, engine mounts and crossmembers. so nothing over 1/4" thickness. I also want the capability to do aluminum but not worried about the thickness capacity of that.

    I have been looking at the Precision TIG 225 with out the water cooler. I dont have the money to buy one with a cooler at the moment and for the 10-15 hours a month I am going to use it I cant see the need.

    I have been looking at used machines but for a clean, low hours one I can almost buy a new one with my discount.

    Any advice?

  22. #197
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  23. #198
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  24. #199
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    Question for you guys. The cost of a TIG is just plain out of my price range right now...I'd like to make my own manifold and I have a MIG already, is there ANY acceptable material or method to making a manifold with a MIG? Or is it just that the weld quality/control with a MIG is not up to par and the welds will fail faster?

    I saw at least one guy in this thread using mild steel but i'm not sure if it was made with a MIG or TIG? I don't care if it doesn't look pretty as long as it functions.

    I've fabricated my downpipe and exhaust on my car with my MIG and although I still have a lot to learn, I love welding and would like to do as much of it as possible.
    Last edited by Talperian; 10-21-2012 at 12:41 AM.

  25. #200
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    DUDMD is offline BMW Maniac Supporting Vendor
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talperian View Post
    Question for you guys. The cost of a TIG is just plain out of my price range right now...I'd like to make my own manifold and I have a MIG already, is there ANY acceptable material or method to making a manifold with a MIG? Or is it just that the weld quality/control with a MIG is not up to par and the welds will fail faster?

    I saw at least one guy in this thread using mild steel but i'm not sure if it was made with a MIG or TIG? I don't care if it doesn't look pretty as long as it functions.

    I've fabricated my downpipe and exhaust on my car with my MIG and although I still have a lot to learn, I love welding and would like to do as much of it as possible.
    If you're going to mig a manifold together, might as well use mild steel pipe. Use SCH10, thick and crazy strong.

    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    Was practicing some steel last night and man I like the WP-9 over the WP-17


    WP-9 Torch vs. 17 nozzle by Jon Kensy, on Flickr
    Damn, looks like I need to pick up a #9 torch setup. The 17 looks huge next to the 9.
    Last edited by DUDMD; 10-21-2012 at 01:55 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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