Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

[TheJuggernaut]

What I really want to know is whether that sharpener works well on carbide tipped blades for 14" dry-cut saws? My last blade lasted through about one cut of 4" 416 stainless tube before it was dull... I certainly won't be using that blade on stainless again, but I'd like to sharpen it back up for aluminum.

The trick with stainless is you must use absolutely zero pressure. Otherwise it melts very easily and deposits on the blade.

It does work for sharpening the blades but the trick I found was not to sharpen the teeth the way most people including the instructions show you. In my case and in your case, it's not the front of the teeth that needs attention but the top. I was able to successfully revive my blade with the sharpener once I realized this - sharpening the faces of the teeth did nothing.

[tptrsn]

So that sharpener can be brought around to do a nice job on the tops? I guess I'll have to pick one up. Especially if it's also good for tungstens.

[TheJuggernaut]

So that sharpener can be brought around to do a nice job on the tops? I guess I'll have to pick one up. Especially if it's also good for tungstens.

So much so that I bought two of them. I have one I stripped down to only the stand motor and blade for the tungsten, and one fully dressed for blade sharpening.

Sorry to actually answer your question, yeah you're actually supposed to do that but the online DIYs and the manual focus on sharpening the front of the tooth. This made no difference for my blade so I was ready to give up on it and just use it for tungsten but I found a guy who said exactly what I'm saying that the real benefit is from cleaning up the tops. But you can and should do both and the sharpener will support it. It's basically just an arbitrarily adjustable arm with a centering spring loaded cone for the blade, and you can line up one tooth exactly how you want, adjust the blade stop (if you want, I'm not sure what the point is, it's not that easy to overgrind a tooth, and big deal if one is a tiny bit more ground than another) and go.

[tptrsn]

Excellent, thanks!!

[Butters Stoch]

Dimes

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[familyMAN]

Very nice!

[Butters Stoch]

Very nice!

I've been playing around w/ different tungsten. For stainless, I'm not a fan of what I used on that aluminium. That was E3 rare earth. I have a bunch of it as it was given to me. But seems OK for aluminium. I've kinda been only using 2% thoriated for steel and 2% lanthanated for aluminium. But, I guess this e3 isn't so bad.

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[familyMAN]

I have a bit different approach...does it hold 50+ psi Boost?...yes....okay it's a good weld.

[Butters Stoch]

I have a bit different approach...does it hold 50+ psi Boost?...yes....okay it's a good weld.

You known pretty dimes is more important than functional.

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[someguy2800]

I have a bit different approach...does it hold 50+ psi Boost?...yes....okay it's a good weld.

I second that emotion

[tptrsn]

It is hard to argue with that logic, but I have to say making pretty welds is a bit of an addiction. Once it starts happening, you want more and more.

On that point, what I've recently found for making nice shiny dimes is that I get better appearance when I don't drop the amps between dabs. Steady pedal and just rather aggressive dab and move makes some pretty stuff happen.

[TheJuggernaut]

I wouldn't say it's hard to argue with that logic, it's pretty easy in fact. Many visual weld attributes that are aesthetically appealing also indicate weld quality. Sometimes it's the opposite like the rainbow colors for stainless and titanium but an ugly grey steel weld, a chalky or black speckled aluminum weld are compromised. Beads with good penetration and consistent size will look appealingly uniform. A weld may be good enough but that doesn't mean it's good. I personally strive for the best quality I can even if I don't need to. Like they say, don't train until you can do it right, train until you can't do it wrong. Ok I get a kick out of it too.

[Butters Stoch]

The general ignorant public thinks the better it looks the better it is. Pretty sells.
Also, there is no reason why you can't make it look good. Especially with aluminium. You have infinite chances to make it look nice.

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[tptrsn]

You been watching some 6061.com there Butters?

[Butters Stoch]

You been watching some 6061.com there Butters?

I get bored, tired of looking at car stuff. Unfortunately I deal with cars ALL DAM DAY.

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[Robocop]

you need to take some close ups of these dimes butters
on the dimes thing, in my opinion, if the guy can make perfect immaculate dimes on his work
he knows exactly what he's doing; Therefore, a good welder.

here's mine after figuring out how to make them on my practice plate.


Practice beads by jet jones, on Flickr

[familyMAN]

My original comment was a joke guys. But since we are talking about it, I've seen beautiful "dimes" that were barely past surface deep; wouldn't survive on my car with vibration and pressure. I think my Powdercoating was probably stronger, but they "looked" pretty.

[someguy2800]

I weld more or less a steady motion so I get more ripples than dimes. I'm way more concerned with penetration, adequate amount of filler, and trying to keep good gas coverage and the amount of crap floating around in the weld than I am about the look of the bead

[vr6dubny]

what is the tungsten of choice for aluminum in your guys opinions? I am thinking I need to delve out into other tungsten and see if my welds get any better looking.

[TheJuggernaut]

what is the tungsten of choice for aluminum in your guys opinions? I am thinking I need to delve out into other tungsten and see if my welds get any better looking.

I use 2% lanthanated for everything. But the difference is very nominal. You can make them all work. If you're having issues with your weld appearance, it's almost definitely something else.

[Butters Stoch]

I don't know, my phone doesn't take very good pics, so probably really blurry. But, this was messing around with that e3 tungsten stuff.




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[vr6dubny]

Those look good to my untrained eyes. My issue is most definitely lack of practice and knowledge.

[someguy2800]

Needs more heat or to slow down at the start. The penetration is good at the end when the part was heat soaked. I use a fixed amperage and just change my speed to control penetration

[vollosso]

Id guess slow down and smaller faster dabs.


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[e46cruiser]

Has anyone here welded a DBW throttle body? I was talking to my fabricator about welding an elbow along with a vangen clamp onto it but he’s worried about the DBW electronics of the E46 throttle body.