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Thread: Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

  1. #1776
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    You engineers and your fancy maths..

  2. #1777
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    Quote Originally Posted by Def View Post
    One spot or the whole face - doesn't matter much. Same as driving a car on top of it roughly (as that's not a point load either) - as a distributed load has the peak moment in the middle increase with the square of the span increase - same as with a "point load" in the middle of a span. Which if the point load is ~1/2" in diameter would punch right through 3003 since it's over 15 ksi of stress in that area.
    I see what you mean, understood. I thought you were integrating the load for effect

  3. #1778
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    I see what you mean, understood. I thought you were integrating the load for effect
    Well, that is the total load (Pressure * Area), but the span is what really matters for bending on a thin sheet. A point load would be worse, but so much worse that it would go right through the sheet. Adding in some 1/2" round rod will work like a champ. If you lay a nice bead on it and polish the ends of the rod before welding, I'd think it'd look really nice.

  4. #1779
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    Quote Originally Posted by Def View Post
    Well, that is the total load (Pressure * Area), but the span is what really matters for bending on a thin sheet. A point load would be worse, but so much worse that it would go right through the sheet. Adding in some 1/2" round rod will work like a champ. If you lay a nice bead on it and polish the ends of the rod before welding, I'd think it'd look really nice.
    Roger that. I was actually considering using some 1" tubing I have but I think the 1/2" solid will look better. I will chamfer the hole and the rod so it shouldn't protrude a lot and look nice without blending it.

    Thanks for looking out guys. I was thinking too that if the manifold lets go, then it will be effectively like having the throttle stuck open naturally aspirated...

  5. #1780
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    I'd put a ton of them....at 1/2" spacing, from front to back, right in front of the inlet trumpets. I guarantee higher boost readings....
    We can start a business selling significantly reduced diameter inlet runner manifold. Guaranteed 1bar inlet pressure increase! No turbo upgrade required!

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    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  6. #1781
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  7. #1782
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    Sweet!
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    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  8. #1783
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    ^^^That was quick!!!!

  9. #1784
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    I think this thread should remind us how strong the oem manifolds are.. lol. Im running a 25yr old m50 manifold at 30++ psi...


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  10. #1785
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    Some small things happend... Got a tiny little milling machine some time ago.




    Some small milling work...








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    What exactly did that accomplish aside from adding a bunch of material and making the top flat? Is there a functional purpose?
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

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    How do you easily add oil to the engine now?

    I think I like the stock VC better aesthetically...

  14. #1789
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    Quote Originally Posted by Def View Post
    How do you easily add oil to the engine now?
    Inquiring minds want to know.

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    Oil going in thru the orrange cap you can see in the pic.



    I was first only going to re-locate the breather outlet, but then I accidentally got mad with the TIG. And orginal cover looks ok, but I have plenty of them on the shelf if get bored with this.

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  16. #1791
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    I like it.


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  17. #1792
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    I like it.
    Me too:

    FullSizeRender 36_zpsns37lzrj by Jacques Dorey, on Flickr

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    I like it as well.
    Last edited by E.Hands; 08-09-2017 at 04:40 PM.

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  19. #1794
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    What exactly did that accomplish aside from adding a bunch of material and making the top flat? Is there a functional purpose?
    I didn't even realize you removed the filler cap!


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  20. #1795
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    IMG_1817.jpgIMG_1816.jpg

    Hopefully the pictures came through. i picked up a lincoln square wave with tank and all for 600 bucks. After playing with electrodes, collets, lenses, I finally got to a point I could weld this 1.8mm intercooler plumbing. Im getting better at feeding filler by hand and you can probably see I definately bought a polishing wheel. I bought a 3d printer pen for 1.8 filament. It will feed about 5 mm per second for as long as I hold the button and the feed speed is variable. Maybe its just a toy but damn I like pushing buttons. Im not steady handed yet. Its been 20 years since I did any real welding but I'll probably relax as time goes on. By the way that printer pen was 25 bucks all in. Hopefully it will help me to be more consistent and I wont have to grind and polish as much. Aluminum is a pain until you get the right combination of variables. 2% lanthanated seem to be the best combo at about 60 amps to light it off and back it down to maybe 30 or 40 after you get a pool going.

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  22. #1797
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    Quote Originally Posted by bry195 View Post
    IMG_1817.jpgIMG_1816.jpg

    Hopefully the pictures came through. i picked up a lincoln square wave with tank and all for 600 bucks. After playing with electrodes, collets, lenses, I finally got to a point I could weld this 1.8mm intercooler plumbing. Im getting better at feeding filler by hand and you can probably see I definately bought a polishing wheel. I bought a 3d printer pen for 1.8 filament. It will feed about 5 mm per second for as long as I hold the button and the feed speed is variable. Maybe its just a toy but damn I like pushing buttons. Im not steady handed yet. Its been 20 years since I did any real welding but I'll probably relax as time goes on. By the way that printer pen was 25 bucks all in. Hopefully it will help me to be more consistent and I wont have to grind and polish as much. Aluminum is a pain until you get the right combination of variables. 2% lanthanated seem to be the best combo at about 60 amps to light it off and back it down to maybe 30 or 40 after you get a pool going.
    I am not a super pro, but my tip for aluminum is have faith in your pedal. Do not be scared to pull the pedal ALL the way down to reset your hand configuration.



    Your best friend is about $50 worth of 1/8 - 3/16" plate.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #1798
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    My favorite tip for aluminum is to use stainless instead lol.

    This is the first aluminum I've done in two years that I can remember. My pedal is broken so I have to use fixed amperage with a finger switch which makes aluminum quite interesting. You have to control penetration with speed and when things get too hot you just have to stop and let it stabilize. Also I'm pretty sure the alloy in the oil pan is 70% aluminum and 30% dirt.

    Last edited by someguy2800; 09-08-2017 at 11:33 PM.


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  24. #1799
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    I seem to remember steel being much easier. Im trying to avoid it so I dont come to my senses and throw the aluminum away.

    Beautiful welds. When I first fired this tig machine up I had a hard time not destroying aluminum plate. The more seat time I get the better I get but I think ultimately that is what you are getting at.

    1.8 to 1.8 is pretty easy with an .040 lanthanated. But if you have allot of metal dissipating or absorbing allot of heat the .040 just cant take the current to start a pool.

    I played with the 3d pen. It sucked. Kept shutting off while I was carrying an arc. I pulled the heater out of it and put a 500 ohm resistor in to fake out the thermistor. Seems to feed really well now.

  25. #1800
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    Tip for aluminum is turn it up. I weld all aluminum 30% hotter than I want to. Go hard on the pedal at first and back off after the puddle. Have filler ready and move at the pace of the metal.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

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