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Thread: Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

  1. #1626
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    That's a good tip on the Isopropyl! However, methanol isn't really inconvenient, just get some yellow bottle Heet. Readily available everywhere.

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    It's nasty stuff, I don't want anything to do with it if I can avoid it.

  3. #1628
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  4. #1629
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    how easy is it to remove that solar flux stuff? Not sure I would want to use that on a charge pipe or pre turbo for fear of chunks of the residue going through the motor.


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  5. #1630
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    Would you really need it pre turbo? There is usually a film of oil on the insides of those pipes (no matter how good your catch/can breather setup is) that should prevent inner joint rusting.

    Nice for exhausts though, that are constantly having moisture build up.

  6. #1631
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    Its not for rust prevention, its for keeping stainless steel from oxidizing on the inside of the pipe when welding without purge gas inside.

    this is what it looks like when you weld stainless without purge gas inside

    Last edited by someguy2800; 03-28-2017 at 12:43 PM.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  7. #1632
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    how easy is it to remove that solar flux stuff? Not sure I would want to use that on a charge pipe or pre turbo for fear of chunks of the residue going through the motor.
    Not sure, haven't looked into that. It's meant to be left in place, I'd only use it where access isn't possible (and hence neither is clean-up). If it's an open structure then purge that sucker. EDIT: actually I think I recall seeing videos where it wipes off pretty well with the alcohol you'd use to mix it up.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    Its not for rust prevention, its for keeping stainless steel from oxidizing on the inside of the pipe when welding without purge gas inside.
    It prevents the oxide but the reason the oxide is bad is that you lose the corrosion resistance of stainless. I read that the weld also becomes brittle there so the weld will also be weaker but the oxide also compromises the corrosion resistance of the stainless steel (it normally forms a chromium oxide layer in reaction to oxygen, which is what prevents corrosion - but the sugaring prevents that from forming)

  8. #1633
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    I think I already have some of that stuff..... Or a very similar product that will likely work.
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  9. #1634
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    One of yous needs to change your forum handle

  10. #1635
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    your it somebody, I signed up 2 years earlier.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
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  11. #1636
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    your it somebody, I signed up 2 years earlier.
    If I use my other handle I'd be kicked out hahaha
    1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust

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    Quote Originally Posted by somebody5788 View Post

    If I use my other handle I'd be kicked out hahaha
    Audis4lyfe?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    Audis4lyfe?
    Surprisingly you're not as far off as you might think. SilverS4sAreFaster
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  14. #1639
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    Thoughts on this weld? Still a little too much heat?

    IMG_20170406_203251096_HDR.jpg
    1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust

  15. #1640
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    Amperage looks ok, you just need to pick up your travel speed, possibly increase argon flow, and maybe use a bigger cup.

    Or you could just brush it and not try to make bling stainless welds.

  16. #1641
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    Quote Originally Posted by somebody5788 View Post
    Thoughts on this weld? Still a little too much heat?

    <img src="https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=597187"/>
    You using 3/32 filler ? Here is a pipe I just did real quick and rushed the job as I have too much to do.
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  17. #1642
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    Quote Originally Posted by Def View Post
    Amperage looks ok, you just need to pick up your travel speed, possibly increase argon flow, and maybe use a bigger cup.

    Or you could just brush it and not try to make bling stainless welds.
    Haha, I'm questioning less for the bling factor and more for the making sure it retains as much corrosion resistance as possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    You using 3/32 filler ? Here is a pipe I just did real quick and rushed the job as I have too much to do.
    I honestly forget what sizes I bought. I have a thin one and a somewhat thick one. The thicker one was cooling the weld too much and sticking.
    1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust

  18. #1643
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    Yeah you need to pick up your travel speed. Try increasing your amps and moving faster. Also make sure you're getting a good purge, it makes a big difference in how the top side flows. EDIT: Also make sure you're keeping your filler close so that it's being shielded. A wide gas lens helps with this (it's generally a good idea with stainless, you can't have too much flow and coverage). If you pull the hot filler tip too far away, it'll develop chromium oxides and you'll just be dipping those into the puddle. It will also make the filler flow worse as the oxides melt at very high temps.

    Regarding bling, with stainless and titanium, the bling isn't just for looks. There are specs for what is acceptable colour. Any grey in stainless is going to be compromised in corrosion resistance and strength (for titanium anything other than shiny silver to dark straw is a reject).

    Butters, are you using filler? That looks like a fusion weld.
    Last edited by TheJuggernaut; 04-06-2017 at 10:51 PM.

  19. #1644
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    .035 308 where needed.
    That pipe don't need no filler for its purpose.


    This filler was needed 3/32 308

    Last edited by Butters Stoch; 04-06-2017 at 11:15 PM.
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  20. #1645
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    Right on, you're improving all the time, looking good!

  21. #1646
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    Got to do some MIG welding the other night, was asked to weld in reinforcement plates for an E46. Overhead welding still blows as much as I remember but, still got it

    B0493BF8-D719-4D85-82A0-68C9CFA2168D.jpg

  22. #1647
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    Also torch angle. Go back to the basics and practice the simple stuff your missing something fundamental.


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  23. #1648
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    Running some mig welds on stainless. Yall werent kidding, this is tricky. It seems like it needs high heat for penetration, but if you dont walk the bead fast enough it burns thru.
    https://imgur.com/a/z0mBg

  24. #1649
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    Quote Originally Posted by XnWarden View Post
    Running some mig welds on stainless. Yall werent kidding, this is tricky. It seems like it needs high heat for penetration, but if you dont walk the bead fast enough it burns thru.
    https://imgur.com/a/z0mBg
    I think we have the same welder? (Hobart 185)

    First, that weld area does not look clean at all. I use a purple abrasive pad to clean the surface before welding, then wipe with IPA. (NEVER use brake cleaner....it is deadly on welds)

    I'm using a 304L 0.030" stainless spool, and "tri-mix" gas which is the WRONG gas to use. I couldn't get the right gas (100% Argon?) in a small bottle without a special order, so for the moment I've skipped that step.

    On 16 gauge tubing, I've tried using a "4" heat setting, and 35%-40% feed rate, but get sagging in bead area. (Too much heat or too slow path speed) On a "3" heat setting with 30% feed rate I get an OK bead, but there is still a very grey bead with oxidizing on the inside.

    The next step I'm going to try is getting proper gas, and building a rig for back-purging inside the pipe.

    I'm still very much an advocate for TIG welding, but MIG is really good for tack work while on the car, so I'd like to get that process working better first.

  25. #1650
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    Trimix is the right gas for mig on stainless. Im using the standard 75/25 mix and it isnt as good at controlling spatter. It seems to take a faster wire speed than normal. 35-40 out of 100 works pretty well for me. If you go too slow it burns thru the metal.

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