That's a good tip on the Isopropyl! However, methanol isn't really inconvenient, just get some yellow bottle Heet. Readily available everywhere.
It's nasty stuff, I don't want anything to do with it if I can avoid it.
how easy is it to remove that solar flux stuff? Not sure I would want to use that on a charge pipe or pre turbo for fear of chunks of the residue going through the motor.
Its not for rust prevention, its for keeping stainless steel from oxidizing on the inside of the pipe when welding without purge gas inside.
this is what it looks like when you weld stainless without purge gas inside
Last edited by someguy2800; 03-28-2017 at 12:43 PM.
Not sure, haven't looked into that. It's meant to be left in place, I'd only use it where access isn't possible (and hence neither is clean-up). If it's an open structure then purge that sucker. EDIT: actually I think I recall seeing videos where it wipes off pretty well with the alcohol you'd use to mix it up.
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It prevents the oxide but the reason the oxide is bad is that you lose the corrosion resistance of stainless. I read that the weld also becomes brittle there so the weld will also be weaker but the oxide also compromises the corrosion resistance of the stainless steel (it normally forms a chromium oxide layer in reaction to oxygen, which is what prevents corrosion - but the sugaring prevents that from forming)
I think I already have some of that stuff..... Or a very similar product that will likely work.
1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust
One of yous needs to change your forum handle
1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust
1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust
Thoughts on this weld? Still a little too much heat?
IMG_20170406_203251096_HDR.jpg
1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust
Amperage looks ok, you just need to pick up your travel speed, possibly increase argon flow, and maybe use a bigger cup.
Or you could just brush it and not try to make bling stainless welds.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Haha, I'm questioning less for the bling factor and more for the making sure it retains as much corrosion resistance as possible.
I honestly forget what sizes I bought. I have a thin one and a somewhat thick one. The thicker one was cooling the weld too much and sticking.
1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust
Yeah you need to pick up your travel speed. Try increasing your amps and moving faster. Also make sure you're getting a good purge, it makes a big difference in how the top side flows. EDIT: Also make sure you're keeping your filler close so that it's being shielded. A wide gas lens helps with this (it's generally a good idea with stainless, you can't have too much flow and coverage). If you pull the hot filler tip too far away, it'll develop chromium oxides and you'll just be dipping those into the puddle. It will also make the filler flow worse as the oxides melt at very high temps.
Regarding bling, with stainless and titanium, the bling isn't just for looks. There are specs for what is acceptable colour. Any grey in stainless is going to be compromised in corrosion resistance and strength (for titanium anything other than shiny silver to dark straw is a reject).
Butters, are you using filler? That looks like a fusion weld.
Last edited by TheJuggernaut; 04-06-2017 at 10:51 PM.
Last edited by Butters Stoch; 04-06-2017 at 11:15 PM.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Right on, you're improving all the time, looking good!
Got to do some MIG welding the other night, was asked to weld in reinforcement plates for an E46. Overhead welding still blows as much as I remember but, still got it
B0493BF8-D719-4D85-82A0-68C9CFA2168D.jpg
Also torch angle. Go back to the basics and practice the simple stuff your missing something fundamental.
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Running some mig welds on stainless. Yall werent kidding, this is tricky. It seems like it needs high heat for penetration, but if you dont walk the bead fast enough it burns thru.
https://imgur.com/a/z0mBg
I think we have the same welder? (Hobart 185)
First, that weld area does not look clean at all. I use a purple abrasive pad to clean the surface before welding, then wipe with IPA. (NEVER use brake cleaner....it is deadly on welds)
I'm using a 304L 0.030" stainless spool, and "tri-mix" gas which is the WRONG gas to use. I couldn't get the right gas (100% Argon?) in a small bottle without a special order, so for the moment I've skipped that step.
On 16 gauge tubing, I've tried using a "4" heat setting, and 35%-40% feed rate, but get sagging in bead area. (Too much heat or too slow path speed) On a "3" heat setting with 30% feed rate I get an OK bead, but there is still a very grey bead with oxidizing on the inside.
The next step I'm going to try is getting proper gas, and building a rig for back-purging inside the pipe.
I'm still very much an advocate for TIG welding, but MIG is really good for tack work while on the car, so I'd like to get that process working better first.
Trimix is the right gas for mig on stainless. Im using the standard 75/25 mix and it isnt as good at controlling spatter. It seems to take a faster wire speed than normal. 35-40 out of 100 works pretty well for me. If you go too slow it burns thru the metal.
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