Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

[tptrsn]

The black harbor freight hoods don't work with tig. All the other ones work fine. I have both

No kidding? I thought my last one was blue... I mean it sort of worked, but my eyes would feel burnt after I used it for a while. Hmmmm... Maybe it's an inverter thing? Is your TIG a transformer machine?

Oh, BTW, I got my eBay'd old Porter-Cable 7724, and it is pretty sweet!! I need to make a little adjustment to one of the blade guides I think to make it cut perfectly straight, but I like it. Thanks for the tip on that!

And I think I see that there is a DeWalt saw that has a similar blade angle to what the Porter-Cable does. Since I think Porter-Cable was first with these, I'm guessing DeWalt kind of copied them.

[Butters Stoch]

I said F it and grabbed a Milwaukee deep cut and swag v4. The evo rage is great, but you can't cut small pieces and stuff. I also ordered the miter assembly and bought 3 Lenox blades. The dewalt dw328 seems to be a great choice as well. That paired with a swag v2. But I don't want yellow things in the garage. I've thought my dogs to attack yellow objects. Just in case a bumble bee ever shows up.

[tptrsn]

DW328, that's the one!

I think the Milwaukee is like my HF saw (that is a copy of a Milwaukee I think), in that you really only get to cut 5" deep and then you hit the housing. That pissed me off one time haha... Honestly though, those saws are super awesome other than that. Even my HF one cuts straight, true, and FAST. And yet I almost always use creativity so I can cut with my DeWalt drycut saw. I guess it is just a bit easier for me to make the cuts exactly where I want them with that.

[TheJuggernaut]

Regarding helmets, the HF ones are dangerous for TIG at low amps. They're OK for most things but you will notice the difference in how you feel when you go up to something fancier. And with the higher end helmets, you also get more sensors which make them faster but also reduce the chances of getting flashed due to covering up a sensor. Also the more money you spend, the larger the viewing area. I'm so used to my Infinity that when I tried a normal helmet the other day while showing a friend something, I felt like I was welding through binoculars... HOW DO YOU SEE THROUGH THIS??? So spoiled. They also have very useful modes like fixed shade mode, sensitivity level (so your helmet doesn't turn into a fixed shade just cause there's a bright light nearby), they have cool features like arc timers if you charge for your work, the head gear is really comfortable... Spend the $, you won't regret it. I wouldn't recommend starting with one of these unless the cost is trivial for you but after you spend enough time under a lower end lid, you won't have a moment's buyer's remorse.

[Butters Stoch]

Well, some of you will know what this is. Sadly I have had to use this many times when I was young and reckless/stupid.

[TheJuggernaut]

Great new video from Jody

[Butters Stoch]

Great new video from Jody

YouTube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOqhh36Kcxo

As long as it isn't Wyatt. Hate that F'n guy.

[someguy2800]

I had a miller until somebody stole it out of my driveway in the city. Got the harbor freight to keep welding for the weekend. Couldn't really tell any difference. I've never used a really fancy one though.

[Butters Stoch]

I had a miller until somebody stole it out of my driveway in the city. Got the harbor freight to keep welding for the weekend. Couldn't really tell any difference. I've never used a really fancy one though.

Night and day using the good ones. A good helmet will run $150. Over that your paying for graphics.

[TheJuggernaut]

A good helmet will run $150. Over that your paying for graphics.

False

[Butters Stoch]

False

Well, from what I've seen and buying helmets for the last 20years. I have 4-5 of them ranging from $30-$350.
Speaking to the guys who sell them at AirGas and Main OXY both agreed, a miller flat black $150 helmet will perform the same as the Miller $350 helmet with skulls or an American flag.
Paying for graphics on the same fully adjustable helmet.

[tptrsn]

Mine is no extra frills, and I imagine $230 is toward the lower end of what you need to pay for it:

https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Elect.../dp/B019G6T4RS

I do have an Antra from Amazon for about $45ish that does a pretty decent job for when someone wants to watch me weld or something haha... I tried it for actual welding, and it was fine too, not like my HF ones that seemed ok but left my eyes hurting. It just doesn't give that crystal clear view like the 4C shield does.

[TheJuggernaut]

Well, from what I've seen and buying helmets for the last 20years. I have 4-5 of them ranging from $30-$350.
Speaking to the guys who sell them at AirGas and Main OXY both agreed, a miller flat black $150 helmet will perform the same as the Miller $350 helmet with skulls or an American flag.
Paying for graphics on the same fully adjustable helmet.

I'm glad you guys were in agreement but the facts are the facts. It's easiest to tell the difference if you actually use one but you can look at the specs which makes it pretty clear what you get, some of which I listed above. It has nothing to do with colors (the Infinity comes in flat black for 20 bucks less than the painted ones) and 3M Speedglas aren't painted at all. Most welding supply places have no idea about anything modern, hell most of them don't even stock anything modern high end, let alone know the difference.

[TheJuggernaut]

Reminds me of one shop where I tried to get Lanthanated electrodes. The guy tried to convince me that pure is all you need and all this newfangled shit is just a gimmick to make suckers spend money, he's been doing this for 30 years and he's never needed anything more than pure. I didn't say anything but the problem is he's still doing shit the same way as he did 30 years ago, as most of them are.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Great new video from Jody

That was a sweet vid! Sub'd to his channel now.

[TheJuggernaut]

That was a sweet vid! Sub'd to his channel now.

Yeah I feel like I should send him a cheque for tuition. I learned more from him over the years than any of my electives in university. But I buy stuff from his store every time I need something if he has it to support him.

Check out the welding tips n tricks podcast too. It's interesting in general if you're into this stuff but there are a few episodes where they talk about specific things.

[Butters Stoch]

I'm glad you guys were in agreement but the facts are the facts. It's easiest to tell the difference if you actually use one but you can look at the specs which makes it pretty clear what you get, some of which I listed above. It has nothing to do with colors (the Infinity comes in flat black for 20 bucks less than the painted ones) and 3M Speedglas aren't painted at all. Most welding supply places have no idea about anything modern, hell most of them don't even stock anything modern high end, let alone know the difference.

Yeah, put the 3m speedglass aside. That's in a different world. There are tons of helmets out there all in the $35-300 range. Your getting the same protection for $150 as $300. Yes, your correct there are exceptions like the speedglass. But that's like tossing in a Lambo when comparing a Mustang to Camaro to Challenger.

[TheJuggernaut]

Yeah, put the 3m speedglass aside. That's in a different world. There are tons of helmets out there all in the $35-300 range. Your getting the same protection for $150 as $300. Yes, your correct there are exceptions like the speedglass. But that's like tossing in a Lambo when comparing a Mustang to Camaro to Challenger.

Yeah if a Lambo was about the same price as a Mustang. Speedglas 9100s range from 250 to 400 and my Infinity has a larger lens and fits better. Going from 150 to 300 isn't about protection, it's about features, which all make a difference, a huge one in some cases (esp the viewing area). You get the same protection from a $10 fixed shade helmet.

[somebody5788]

Any recommendations for experimenting with the pulse setting on my TIG 200 and welding some cast tonight?

[Butters Stoch]

Any recommendations for experimenting with the pulse setting on my TIG 200 and welding some cast tonight?

Pulse with the pedal.

[somebody5788]

Pulse with the pedal.

Are you saying like actively rock the petal? I don't think I can do it quite the same as the machine can lol. I've been struggling on the cast and would like to try it to see if it can aid me a little. It could just be some really dirty cast that no matter how much I clean it is just gonna suck though.

[somebody5788]

NVM, I feel dumb. It's working quite well now. Just wish I could remember which one I changed, AC balance or the frequency. I think I jumped the frequency up to 90 and left the balance at 70 or so.

[TheJuggernaut]

Are you saying like actively rock the petal? I don't think I can do it quite the same as the machine can lol. I've been struggling on the cast and would like to try it to see if it can aid me a little. It could just be some really dirty cast that no matter how much I clean it is just gonna suck though.

The pulser won't clean up the weld unless you're overheating it, which is better solved in other ways. With cast aluminum, sometimes it doesn't matter what you do, it will weld like shit. Cranking up AC balance to higher EP will help (I assume 70 is 70% EN on your machine, you could go even lower for more cleaning) but it's really hard on your electrode (and your torch/hand if you're not water cooled). Sometimes nothing helps except to fuse some fresh metal in there, regrind and repeat. Sometimes you just have to cut the crap out and build it back up.

[somebody5788]

The pulser won't clean up the weld unless you're overheating it, which is better solved in other ways. With cast aluminum, sometimes it doesn't matter what you do, it will weld like shit. Cranking up AC balance to higher EP will help (I assume 70 is 70% EN on your machine, you could go even lower for more cleaning) but it's really hard on your electrode (and your torch/hand if you're not water cooled). Sometimes nothing helps except to fuse some fresh metal in there, regrind and repeat. Sometimes you just have to cut the crap out and build it back up.

Embarrassingly I ended up using JB weld to fill in some pits that were leaking and grinding down the entire weld till it was smooth. It's just a throttle body and 2 pieces are now 1 and don't leak so I'll live with it. Painting it will cover the errors up lol.

[TheJuggernaut]

Embarrassingly I ended up using JB weld to fill in some pits that were leaking and grinding down the entire weld till it was smooth. It's just a throttle body and 2 pieces are now 1 and don't leak so I'll live with it. Painting it will cover the errors up lol.

lol yup, happens. If you want to see your brain on drugs, light up on aluminum on DCEN. Or clean up a nice patch of metal for welding and forget that it's not completely clean, and run your bead into the painted area...