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Thread: Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

  1. #126
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    All the runners are welded to the head flange, wait for it to completely cool off to avoid warping then cut the tacks off with a cutting wheel.

    I cannot stress this enough to everyone reading, wear face protection when using a cutoff wheel and long sleeves, I've seen accidents with wheels blowing up and causing lacerations to the face and body.

    My manifolds powering 8sec and over 1000rwp cars
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  2. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by ar design View Post
    Do you have a budget in mind? Do you want to do aluminum as well?
    $1200 would be my limit for now and pretty sure it will be something used.
    Ive heard that mainly stick to Miller but yea.

    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    The first discussion you need to engage is what materials you'll be using. If steel, there are a bunch of decent DC only TIGs. If aluminum you'll need an AC/DC TIG. Stuff like tungsten and such is just one of those preference things. What does matter about tungsten is what type of machine you end up with whether inverter or transformer - there are certain tungsten types that do and do not work well on inverters (ceriated is pretty much a good choice for both DC and AC work on an inverter) and there are also different styles of grinding for inverter vs transformer - ie., for aluminum on an inverter you'll grind to a point while on a transformer you'll want to ball the end.

    Schedule 40 pipe is pretty gnarly stuff not many people use that for anything on cars.
    i would like to ultimately be able to weld manifolds, intercooler pipes, downpipes, and roll cages/reinforcements to the car. (i know it sounds kinda far fetched for a noob but would like this to be a life lesson kind of thing + its a good talent to know)

  3. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by good & tight
    Since the exhaust port is oval I mark the pipe and squeeze it in the vise to match, so there is a smooth transition.
    Before
    Do you heat before squeezing or just squeeze.

  4. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by cragg56 View Post
    Do you heat before squeezing or just squeeze.
    He may have in between stealing designs from AR Design paying vendor.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
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  5. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post
    He may have in between stealing designs from AR Design paying vendor.
    Do you ever stop? This is a good thread. Lets not turn it into a vendor vs vendor shit fest.

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  6. #131
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    Have any of the welders among you used an aluminum spool gun on a mig? Any comments? The prices look appealing compared to an AC/DC tig.

  7. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmzwirner View Post
    Do you ever stop? This is a good thread. Lets not turn it into a vendor vs vendor shit fest.
    It's not a vendor vs vendor s fest because G&T isn't a vendor and the fact that he mockingly told AR Design that he should "Play nice now or you will see your's on ebay for less than 1/2 of what you charge" is rather inappropriate and shows G&T's intentions. I can't say I am terribly impressed with Otis for knocking off the design but alleging to take it to China for a fraction of the cost is plainly cutting into AR Designs livelihood - I know AR Design has a job and needs to bring money home, and to read that is just sad. In a time when local business couldn't be more important and production in the US is dying, here we have a forum member (not a vendor, btw) waving the fact that he's sending the ripped-off design overseas for production... that's probably the lowest of the low.

    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Have any of the welders among you used an aluminum spool gun on a mig? Any comments? The prices look appealing compared to an AC/DC tig.
    Spool guns are great for light weight stuff - sheet metal, etc. The problem is you need a ton of amperage if you intend to weld anything of any real thickness. It's not very appealing compared to TIG and it doesn't yield the same kind of penetration. Mishimoto rads are spool gunned - they work, but the welds on the rads are the #1 complaint against the product. Also, low end MIG machines don't support spool guns, so you need to find yourself a decent MIG with good power which means you're spending $750 - $1200 for a MIG. Without much more, you're in a TIG.
    Last edited by 5mall5nail5; 10-14-2012 at 05:44 PM.

  8. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmzwirner View Post
    Do you ever stop? This is a good thread. Lets not turn it into a vendor vs vendor shit fest.
    Sorry but when a non supporting steals a design from a paying vendor it's hard to ignore. I can't stand crooks. Maybe you like those sorts of people, and like them around in ur company but I don't.

    It is best you read before posting. Have good evening
    Last edited by GG///M3; 10-14-2012 at 05:49 PM.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
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  9. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    It's not a vendor vs vendor s fest because G&T isn't a vendor and the fact that he mockingly told AR Design that he should "Play nice now or you will see your's on ebay for less than 1/2 of what you charge" is rather inappropriate and shows G&T's intentions. I can't say I am terribly impressed with Otis for knocking off the design but alleging to take it to China for a fraction of the cost is plainly cutting into AR Designs livelihood - I know AR Design has a job and needs to bring money home, and to read that is just sad. In a time when local business couldn't be more important and production in the US is dying, here we have a forum member (not a vendor, btw) waving the fact that he's sending the ripped-off design overseas for production... that's probably the lowest of the low.


    Did he actually mean he would send them overseas? I think he was just picking at the fact that manifolds have been copied and sold (think OBX).


    I don't think he personally meant he would do it.



    Continue on with tips. I would like to get a cheap TIG too.


    For those of us looking for ones on Craigslist, what are some good used MIGs and TIGs to look for?

    "Believe nothing you hear, half of what you read"


  10. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fender13Bender View Post
    Did he actually mean he would send them overseas? I think he was just picking at the fact that manifolds have been copied and sold (think OBX).


    I don't think he personally meant he would do it.



    Continue on with tips. I would like to get a cheap TIG too.


    For those of us looking for ones on Craigslist, what are some good used MIGs and TIGs to look for?
    You do realize that Otis sold his own manifold to overseas and has it being produced, right?

  11. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post
    Sorry but when a non supporting steals a design from a paying vendor it's hard to ignore. I can't stand crooks. Maybe you like those sorts of people, and like them around in ur company but I don't.

    It is best you read before posting. Have good evening
    Im not disagreeing with what you are saying. Id never buy from otis after reading what he said. But we should just keep this thread full of fabrication pictures/information.

    We need a fabrication section. I really want to learn to TIG weld. I might take a few classes while im up here at school, if they are offered.

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  12. #137
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    Did not realize that.



    Thoughts on Craigslist welders?

    "Believe nothing you hear, half of what you read"


  13. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fender13Bender View Post
    Did not realize that.



    Thoughts on Craigslist welders?
    If it weren't for that I'd have disregarded it, but knowing that Otis did that, it's a little... I don't even know.


    Re: craigslist welder - perfectly fine if the unit is perfectly fine. You can pick one up but I have noticed that with the economy being what it is you will see guys selling a Synchro 200 for like 85-90% of new price. Problem with that is it could work fine and then not... and no warranty. But, that's just like anything else.

    There's also the classified section of some welding forums. If you do guy with a Miller or Lincoln the nice thing is you can take it in to your AirGas store and have it serviced.

  14. #139
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    What's some good ones to look for? I remember JFDmas (spelling?) had some really old TIG that looked like it worked wonders.

    "Believe nothing you hear, half of what you read"


  15. #140
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    The guy who does the welding for Driven Innovations has an old school huge transformer machine. The key is, transformer machines are big (Miller Synchrowave, etc.) and inverter machines are small (Diversion, Dynasty). "Good" is relative. You need to identify what you will work on and then find a machine that will output that.

    Do you need 110v or 220v? Some machines work only on one and some on both. Do you need AC and DC? Just DC? Do you want HF start or are you ok with scratch start? Etc.

  16. #141
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    I have 220v in the garage.

    AC or DC, what's the advantage of either? I want to be able to do exhaust work and charge piping, etc. Aluminum and stainless steel eventually. Welder noob here for sure.

    "Believe nothing you hear, half of what you read"


  17. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fender13Bender View Post
    I have 220v in the garage.

    AC or DC, what's the advantage of either? I want to be able to do exhaust work and charge piping, etc. Aluminum and stainless steel eventually. Welder noob here for sure.
    Aluminum requires AC, steel requires DC. DC only machines tend to be much cheaper.

  18. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmzwirner View Post
    Do you ever stop? This is a good thread. Lets not turn it into a vendor vs vendor shit fest.
    Quote Originally Posted by cmzwirner View Post
    Im not disagreeing with what you are saying. Id never buy from otis after reading what he said. But we should just keep this thread full of fabrication pictures/information.

    We need a fabrication section. I really want to learn to TIG weld. I might take a few classes while im up here at school, if they are offered.
    Yes we all want to learn, but I choose to dislike people who rob/cheat/steal. There was no need for you to state do you ever stop.

    Back to the topic. I'm looking into taking welding classes soon. Great thread besides the said non-vendor robbing vendors designs, and threats of sending it to China for mass production/profit.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
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  19. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    Aluminum requires AC, steel requires DC. DC only machines tend to be much cheaper.
    So I would want an AC/DC unit to be able to do both.


    120/220 volt, advantage of them?

    "Believe nothing you hear, half of what you read"


  20. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fender13Bender View Post
    So I would want an AC/DC unit to be able to do both.


    120/220 volt, advantage of them?
    Usually you cannot do higher amps unless on 220v, so 220v is preferred, but being able to take t he welder around can be useful too. So, dedicated 220v machine is nice if you have 220v all the time, but a 110-120v is nice for when you don't.

  21. #146
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    I have 220 volt, so that's no problem.


    I'll start off with just a gas mig for now, unless it would make more sense to go straight for a TIG? Opinions on a good make and model? Budget friendly.

    "Believe nothing you hear, half of what you read"


  22. #147
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    I would buy a little mig now, like a Lincoln 135 and a tig later. Mig is easiest to learn with. I have a little Lincoln 100 and would like to get a tig (probably one of the new inverter styles that go for about $1300). The little migs cost about $500, less if used. Sticking with a name brand so it can be repaired is the smart route. Many of the chinese welders are attractively priced, but like cheap chinese generators, become paper weights when they break.

    I have a chop saw (abrasive) and a band saw. With the little mig, I can cut and tack weld stuff and then take it to a pro for full welding. Mod Addict and I made an entire 3.5 inch exhaust for his car.
    Last edited by pbonsalb; 10-14-2012 at 07:08 PM.

  23. #148
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    what do you guys think as a beginners tig welder?

    http://www.eastwood.com/tig-welders-...FYaDQgodLXEAmA

  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by cragg56 View Post
    Do you heat before squeezing or just squeeze.
    Just squeeze, like I had mentioned early get a good table vice.

    And for the record I do not intend to make copies in china from it. Two of my own designed manifolds have been sent and copied and would certainly not do it to someone else. I'm not fond of this manifold design, but I will keep my comments to myself.

    Back to the topic on hand:

    Manifold removed from jig, here's a peak inside the exhaust port. Very minimal die grinding needed to make a nice smooth entry.



    Turbo flanged mounted, just need to add the wastegate ports, dual v-band 38mm.

    My manifolds powering 8sec and over 1000rwp cars
    Home of the highest HP stock M30 in the world 550rwhp/622rwtq
    1/4 mile---> 9.81 @138 C4 Auto
    10.08 in car vid --->https://youtu.be/OiinFhUomjg
    Dyno vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7aM7..._order&list=UL

  25. #150
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    The price of the Eastwood stuff is tempting and there is probably better quality control than some of the other Chinese tigs, but what do you do after 3 years if something breaks? Or 5 or 10 years? With a Miller or Lincoln, it can be fixed.

    When it first came out, I think Eastwood was selling the tig with the plasma cutter for $1000.

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