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Thread: Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    I make the best of what I've got!


    ar design stage 1 turbo kit - 11.7 @ 127mph 12psi of boost..... 5300ft elevation E36 S50 stock long block w/ARP

    sales@ardesign.info | tel. 303.351.3515| www.ardesign.info
    Powering some of the world's fastest BMWs

  2. #27
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    I want to play!

    Here are some e34 M30 parts:

    4" intake tube with MAF integrated



    Twin custom exhuast - 4" downpipe to dual 3"



    Merge Collector for Miller M30 bottom mount Tubi Mani





    The one we left as a jig just incase nobody wants to spend the money on acutally buying these LOL



    Miller A2L M30 intercooler



    One off 540i Exhaust


    E30 Turbo Exhaust







    E46 M3 Meth Tank we built for a RMS S/C Car here:







    This is either fab skills of Dan Miller or Alex Dresselhuis NOT ME. I suck unless its polishing or cutting.

  3. #28
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    Guys the pics are cool of parts... I think I was thinking this might be a thread more about how to fabricate. Ie., I posted a pipe beveler I made. A lot of other forums have sections on how to fabricate, where to get materials, what settings to use, what tools to use to cut, what blades, etc. etc.

    The pics are very nice to look at but they're not really telling us about fabrication at all.


  4. #29
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    Swapped e-Dirty
    Looks GREAT Brody!!!!
    ar design stage 1 turbo kit - 11.7 @ 127mph 12psi of boost..... 5300ft elevation E36 S50 stock long block w/ARP

    sales@ardesign.info | tel. 303.351.3515| www.ardesign.info
    Powering some of the world's fastest BMWs

  5. #30
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    #Project333Ti & Z3 Coupe
    Some of Chris Castro's fab work (Castro Motosrport)


    Our custom s54 E36 mid-section exhaust:







    Chris's first project ever with his TIG: Oval piped 3" turbo back exhaust with down-pipe.

    Oval exhaust being built



    Wideband o2 sensor bung added to the downpipe



    Exhaust almost complete!










    Custom electric cut-out for the same car:















    [/

  6. #31
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    1988 m3
    Our (Castro Motorsport) E92 M3 exhaust that will be in production soon:




























    Back on the ground, favorite view!

    Need a good mechanic/fabricator/performance shop in SoCal?

    www.castromotorsport.com

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1352434


    Castro Motorsport
    12600 Sherman Way, Unit C
    North Hollywood, CA 91605
    (818) 765-3606

  7. #32
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    #Project333Ti & Z3 Coupe
    Custom dual 2.5" SS exhaust that Chris Castro (Castro Motorsport) built for my S54 E30 M3










  8. #33
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    To get this back on track....

    Where do people get their materials from?

    I have used Onlinemetals.com because its local.
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    Guys the pics are cool of parts... I think I was thinking this might be a thread more about how to fabricate. Ie., I posted a pipe beveler I made. A lot of other forums have sections on how to fabricate, where to get materials, what settings to use, what tools to use to cut, what blades, etc. etc.

    The pics are very nice to look at but they're not really telling us about fabrication at all.
    Jon I think that's a great idea, I will build a manifold showing all the tools I use. Stay tuned........
    My manifolds powering 8sec and over 1000rwp cars
    Home of the highest HP stock M30 in the world 550rwhp/622rwtq
    1/4 mile---> 9.81 @138 C4 Auto
    10.08 in car vid --->https://youtu.be/OiinFhUomjg
    Dyno vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7aM7..._order&list=UL

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazzu70 View Post
    To get this back on track....

    Where do people get their materials from?

    I have used Onlinemetals.com because its local.
    I use ace stainless, great quality and fast shipping.

    Also, if you guys want to check out some amazing fabrication work, check out toxic fab.
    Last edited by MTrace; 10-10-2012 at 06:15 PM.

  11. #36
    DUDMD's Avatar
    DUDMD is online now BMW Maniac Supporting Vendor
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTrace

    I use ace stainless, great quality and fast shipping.

    Also, if you guys want to check out some amazing fabrication work, check out toxic fab.
    Toxic fab and unobtanium are the best welders I have seen in my life. Their welds are unbelievable.

    I also use ace stainless for sch10 supplies.
    Last edited by DUDMD; 10-10-2012 at 06:37 PM.
    Performance Tuning and Chips currently available for all: M60B30, M60B40, M62B44, M62B44TU, 07/97+ M73B54 and M73B54TU
    Performance Tuning for 335D and X5 35D M57 engine - optional offroad use EGR/DPF/SCR Removal. Tunes available in stage 1 or stage 2 options.
    EWS Delete for MSS52/MSS54/MSS54HP/MS41/ME7.2/M5.2
    DTC Removal Service for most BMW ecus from 99+ etc: MS42/MS43/ME7.2/ME9/M9+/MSV70/MSV80/MSD80/MSS52/MSS54, including the newer EDC17/MEVD17.
    Virgnize DME service available to unlock DME to sync to another vehicle on EWS3 vehicles 98+. M5.2.1, M7.2, MS42, MS43 and more.
    MSS52/MSS54/MSS54HP tuning is almost done and will be released soon.
    Don't be afraid to ask, worst I can say is no.

    Easiest way to contact me is to send me a message on my facebook page "DUDMD Tuning"

    540i/6 E34 Turbo Build
    750iL Work Log

  12. #37
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    Toxic Fab makes some fantastic EVO stuff.
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    Guys the pics are cool of parts... I think I was thinking this might be a thread more about how to fabricate. Ie., I posted a pipe beveler I made. A lot of other forums have sections on how to fabricate, where to get materials, what settings to use, what tools to use to cut, what blades, etc. etc.

    The pics are very nice to look at but they're not really telling us about fabrication at all.
    So,
    less SHOWING OFF (simply posting pictures) and marketing of parts (save those for your VENDOR group buy and advertising threads)

    and more DIY sharing of the
    processes,
    materials,
    welding angles,
    stick composition,
    temps,
    gas %,
    preparation techniques,
    Lollipop Guild E30 rust removal,
    blade types,
    necessary tools,
    parts sourcing info,
    practices and preferences,
    successes and failures of such,
    etc


  14. #39
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    I get my pipe manifold supplies from:
    304 Schedule 10 SS 90* from AceStainless
    304 Schedule 10 SS pipe from onlinemetals

    Tools that I use:
    Safety goggles is a must if your cutting and grinding.
    Chop saw, 4" grinder with sandpaper wheel, die grinder, rat tail file, degree gauge, porta band, drill with metal hole saw, metal ruler, beer.



    Welding equipment: Lincoln 225 Precision Tig, Lincoln 135T Mig.
    I use the mig to tack pieces together.
    Tig wire 316, 2% Thoriated Tungsten, 20psi of gas flow.



    Using a degree wheel set up cut off 30* from the center line on each side.





    Should look like this, I use the die grinder, grinder and rat tail file to clean it all up.


    On the right is the collector welded up. The collector on the left I just buzzed the angles with the porta band.



    Also important is your work bench and bench vise, make sure they are up to the task.


    More too come.....
    My manifolds powering 8sec and over 1000rwp cars
    Home of the highest HP stock M30 in the world 550rwhp/622rwtq
    1/4 mile---> 9.81 @138 C4 Auto
    10.08 in car vid --->https://youtu.be/OiinFhUomjg
    Dyno vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7aM7..._order&list=UL

  15. #40
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    E36 GOODNESSSS
    im not big in fab work, i do lil stuff for myself but ill tellst you one thing , my exhaut manifold from AR design looks sik !! everytime someone comes over and looks at it everyone asks questions about it!! it really looks bad ass!! i cant wait to put it in good use
    i got these parts for sale

    front corner light for a 4 door E36 $20plus shipping
    headlight eyebrows $20 plud shpping
    M3 OEM radiator $100 plus shipping
    M52 cams with trays high miles $150 shipped
    M3 front calipers $150 plus shipping
    18x8 offsed 35, front 18x10 offset 40 rear bsa motorsports wheels $400 plus shipping
    obd2 valve covers $50 plus shipping
    intake manifolds $50 plus shipping
    estoril blue doors of a 96 M3 2door $200 plus shipping each
    rear glass $50 plus shipping
    rear trunk lid $150 plus shipping

    new 1/4 is 800 ft away ))

  16. #41
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    03 M3,Turbo E36 M3, D675
    Im making a stainless steel rose right now too, Ill post pics of it once I get it done.

  17. #42
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    Also when cutting stainless steel with a band saw use cutting oil or some type of oil for lubrication, your blade will last longer.



    This is four hours of work, it's a fairly simple design with only six 90* used so far.

    My manifolds powering 8sec and over 1000rwp cars
    Home of the highest HP stock M30 in the world 550rwhp/622rwtq
    1/4 mile---> 9.81 @138 C4 Auto
    10.08 in car vid --->https://youtu.be/OiinFhUomjg
    Dyno vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7aM7..._order&list=UL

  18. #43
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    Great detail Otis but your post says "20 psi of gas flow", that isn't what you meant to say is it?

    Sent from my GTX3582R
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    Great detail Otis but your post says "20 psi of gas flow", that isn't what you meant to say is it?

    Sent from my GTX3582R
    My bad CFH not psi.
    My manifolds powering 8sec and over 1000rwp cars
    Home of the highest HP stock M30 in the world 550rwhp/622rwtq
    1/4 mile---> 9.81 @138 C4 Auto
    10.08 in car vid --->https://youtu.be/OiinFhUomjg
    Dyno vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7aM7..._order&list=UL

  20. #45
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    Jon, do tell about the torch that you changed to and why please.

    Otis, do you always back purge the piping? What set up do you use for back purging?

    Where are you guys getting your head flanges from?

    Sent from my GTX3582R
    Last edited by chikinhed; 10-10-2012 at 11:54 PM.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  21. #46
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    Im looking to try welding the sch10 304 tubing with my MIG. I will post up how it goes. I would rate my welding skill as "stick pieces of metal together, probably looks like crud"

    I have a Lincoln 135. Miller and Hobart are both good brands as well.

    You can find MIGs on Craigslist pretty commonly.


    There is a welding school locally that offers MIG and TIG hobby classes. Good way to use the equipment and see what you want to get into before you buy.



    Otis, thanks for the details!!
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  22. #47
    DUDMD's Avatar
    DUDMD is online now BMW Maniac Supporting Vendor
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    Most of the power tools I used to build a manifold or two are harbor freight junk, they're cheap and they work. I haven't had many issues with them for a few years now.
    I have an HF chop saw, 4" die grinder, little dremel. Also have a Ryobi belt sander with a 6" disc on the side, and a small craftsman drill press. I use a champion 1.5" carbide tipped hole saw for drilling bov/wastegate holes. With these few tools, you can pretty much build whatever you want.
    I need to buy another champion carbide hole saw for the o2 sensor holes.

    My welders are:
    New Miller Syncrowave 200 - 250cf tank and a 150cf tank, both argon.
    Snap-On FM140a - decent little mig that has yet to let me down. Long power cord and has a few nice options.

    I just sold my Lincoln Squarewave 255, the syncrowave welds so much better and has better options. Lincoln was a lot more powerful, too bad I have nothing to weld at the amperage the lincoln supported.
    Performance Tuning and Chips currently available for all: M60B30, M60B40, M62B44, M62B44TU, 07/97+ M73B54 and M73B54TU
    Performance Tuning for 335D and X5 35D M57 engine - optional offroad use EGR/DPF/SCR Removal. Tunes available in stage 1 or stage 2 options.
    EWS Delete for MSS52/MSS54/MSS54HP/MS41/ME7.2/M5.2
    DTC Removal Service for most BMW ecus from 99+ etc: MS42/MS43/ME7.2/ME9/M9+/MSV70/MSV80/MSD80/MSS52/MSS54, including the newer EDC17/MEVD17.
    Virgnize DME service available to unlock DME to sync to another vehicle on EWS3 vehicles 98+. M5.2.1, M7.2, MS42, MS43 and more.
    MSS52/MSS54/MSS54HP tuning is almost done and will be released soon.
    Don't be afraid to ask, worst I can say is no.

    Easiest way to contact me is to send me a message on my facebook page "DUDMD Tuning"

    540i/6 E34 Turbo Build
    750iL Work Log

  23. #48
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    This thread has finally pushed me over the edge to penny up for a tig of my own.

    Since pretty welded things have allready been well covered I decided to show some of the parts and tools I have built to build my car. Specifically 3d printed parts. I work for a large manufacturer of 3d printing machines so I make a ton of parts all the time to help me at home. My wife is a pharmacy student so I have very little money. Having the 3d printing technology has allowed me to make alot of things that I otherwise would have had to have cnc'd or laser cut, which I just can't afford.

    I'll start off with my chassis build. Below is the solidworks model of what I built in the car. I designed it all after hours at work and built it all at home with hand tools in my garage.



    I also have a foot long model of this 3d printed on my desk at work



    So to start off I had to shorten my rear end. I bought a used 9" out of a 70's ford truck and shortened each side. One side was shortened like 10" and the other 8" or so to center the pinion. I made my own rear end alignment fixture to get the housing ends on straight. The rings are 3d printed polycarbonate, and the bar is a ground aluminum rod from mc master carr. cost about $30



    the two smaller rings bolt into the carrier bearing bores in the third member and the rod slides through



    the housing end bolts on to the adapter and slide onto the end of the bar. I also designed an extra flange of material on the backside, so it doubles as a machining fixture. Just chuck the adapter in the lathe to machine the old housing end flat. No need for a 4 jaw chuck



    level everything out and weld her on. I actually tacked on the housing ends in 4 places with the fixture still in place. The heat didn't hurt it a bit





    Now onto the suspension brackets. In the pic above you can see the setup I made to locate the 4 link brackets at the correct height and width. Before cutting metal brackets, I 3d printed brackets to check fitment



    To weld on the brackets at the correct spacing I used some 3d printed bushings for spacers. They were made .020" larger than my rod ends to allow for paint



    Once I finalized the design of the brackets, I made 3d printed templates to cut them out of steel plate. All four brackets on the axle side are unique due to the odd shape of a 9 inch housing. These were clamped to pieces of 1/4" steel plate, and the pilot holes drilled out using a drill press. The outlines were scribed in to cut out later. The the holes were drilled to size on a mill (have access to one at work). Finally the outlines were cut out using a combination of drilling overlapping holes on the mill and cut off wheels.



    I designed my own disc brake setup using readily available components from a couple different domestic cars. Rather than design a complex bolt on bracket, I made some simple brackets to weld directly to the rear axle housing. In the above pic you can see the caliper bracket template in the upper left. Here is what the brake setup looks like on the car



    to weld this bracket on at the correct distance from the axle center, and at the correct distance from the brake rotor I made a jig to hold it in the exact right position. The large round boss in the center fits into the housing end where the wheel bearing should go and bottoms out in the hole. The two bosses at the top hold the bracket in the correct position. The two small nubs on the right and left side locate in the bolt holes on the housing end to get the rotation right.



    The brackets for the coil over shocks are cut out of a length of 1/4" rectangular tubing. Made a template to slip over the tubing to mark out the shape, and also to use as a drill guide to position the holes



    here is the finished rear end. the piece welded to the top of the passenger side 4 link bracket is for the panhard bar.





    Because of the custom brake setup I made some little brackets to hold the brake lines and the parking brake cables to the frame. There is an adapter between the hard and braided lines with a notche machined into it. The 3d printed bracket fits this notch so the cannot be pulled out. Parking brake cable clips into the top.



    For the rest of the brake lines hold downs I made smaller brackets. To mount to the car, there is simply a hex nut welded to the body, and the bracket bolts to the nut. No hole in the floor





    further up the car, I made new brackets that mount in place of the original fuel line brackets. Of course 8an lines don't fit in the original mounts so I made new ones to fit. The screw into the original studs. also hold the brake lines



    you'll never guess what this is for.



    it is to mock up the drive shaft to check for clearance in the drive shaft tunnel. The round part fits into the yoke on the rear end, and a piece of 3.5" PVC pipe slides onto the other.

    I am using an aftermarket manual brake master cylinder with no booster. To clear the intake manifold I had to move it over toward the driver side of the car about and inch or so. I made a bracket to adapt the bolt pattern and also reposition it. On the left is the prototype bracket which I bolted into the car to check fitment. On the right is the drilling template which was used to make a steel part. Note all the holes had drill bushings in them but I pulled out all but one for something else



    here is the master cylinder in the car. The bracket is behind the firewall, sandwiched between the firewall and the pedal assembly. The pedal assembly was modified to move it back in the car, and the pedal modified to reposition the pivot point over to the drivers side. sorry for the messy pic



    now onto the roll cage. I designed my own cage in cad to fit the interior the way I wanted. I made some flexible 3d printed joints to figure out all the bends in the car the way I wanted them. Once I had them set they were carefully measured with angle gauges and drawn in cad. To verify the cad dimensions I printed sections of the cage to actually test fit in the car before getting tubing bent. Here is a compound bend for the A pillar bar. the two straight sections are just pvc pipe. Its a compound bend so its very hard to measure correctly. It actually fit perfectly, but I decided to go with a halo bar to fit closer to the top of the windshield anyway. This piece actually has a honeycomb structure inside so it only weighs a few ounces.






    For the door bars on the cage I make a trim tool to notch the tubing at the right angle. Both bars perfect on the first try







    The roll cage did not leave enough room for the roof handles so rather than just remove them I made some little delete pieces to fill in the holes.

    Last edited by someguy2800; 10-11-2012 at 04:25 AM.
    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  24. #49
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    for the fuel system I needed a couple y fitting to split into the dual fual pumps and back together. AN Y fittings are expensive to I just made some. Slip a piece of tubing into this block, mark it out and cut.





    Got the chassis all together with the tires under the car, and decided the wheels need a bit less backspacing. Before ordering wheel spacers I made some to check thickness first. They hold up the the lug bolt torque but I won't drive on them because of the heat from the brake rotor



    I designed some collectors for my turbo manifold to be made out of radius tubing rather than straight to save space. On the left is the trim guide, a prototype printed collector, and the real thing tacked together.









    Many have seen this already. My fixture for retapping to 11mm head studs. It is 3d printed out of ultem with drill bushings pressed in.



    This has got to be my favorate part. It is an adjustable cam timing fixture for a m50. It goes on the the same maner as the stock cam aligning tool, but each arm can be adjusted to dial in advance or retard on a scale. Measures cam timing with a high degree of accuracy. I have proven it to be much more accurate than the stock fixture. The extra arm on the left is to use a non vanos intake cam on the exhaust side. Already has the correct amount of advance built in.







    and to further dial in cam timing, I made a timing wheel that bolts in place of the factory harmonic balancer



    here is one of my latest ideas. A set of bore plugs with orings. I designed these to plug the cylinders while resurfacing and assembled engine, cutting oring grooves, or using my head bolt fixture. They will have oring in the outer groove and will keep all the shit from falling down in the ring grooves. Just pull them up and vacuum out the junk. Can be made in any bore size needed.



    My other hobby besides cars is shooting and amateur gunsmithing. My favorite rifle scope did not come with a sunshade so I decided to make one. No more going blind at dusk!



    this piece is an action wrench. Its what a gunsmith uses to hold the action of a rifle so they can loosen the barrel from the receiver. This is for a savage action. My next gunsmithing project will be to make a 3d printed action block to be epoxied into the stock!



    Stay tuned for more. I have a bunch of other stuff I already threw away and more yet to be built. My current project is to 3d print an instrument cluster to bolt in the stock position and hold my aftermarket gauges.
    Last edited by someguy2800; 10-11-2012 at 04:34 AM.
    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  25. #50
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by good & tight View Post
    This is four hours of work, it's a fairly simple design with only six 90* used so far.

    Any details on how you "mold" two "larger" diameter pipes at the divided flange? Realize that is not in the picture you have here, but you would eventually need to get there. That was the one thing I have been curious about.

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