Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

[5mall5nail5]

Just pick up a replacement board if you have to. They're pretty cheap. Is it a 7x10/12/14?

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...3042&category=

[Talperian]

Starting my metal fab class tomorrow, woohoo! Don't expect to learn anything too technical but it should be fun

We will be going over arc, mig, tig, oxyacetylene, plasmacutting, lathe, mill and more. Should be fun and the shop instructor usually lets you work on your own projects towards the end of the semester hopefully I'll be able to do my IC piping and get a crack at making a manifold.

Anybody tried the harbor freight mini-lathe?

[M3equalslife]

Let's see some pics of your tig/mig cart!

[5mall5nail5]

Anybody tried the harbor freight mini-lathe?

All of the mini lathes are made by Sieg. Some companies though have better QC @ import. Grizzly, IMHO, has better QC from what I've read. But, an HF 7x12 is the same as a Grizzly 7x12 is the same as a.... etc.

So, yeah, they're not bad.

[Talperian]

All of the mini lathes are made by Sieg. Some companies though have better QC @ import. Grizzly, IMHO, has better QC from what I've read. But, an HF 7x12 is the same as a Grizzly 7x12 is the same as a.... etc.

So, yeah, they're not bad.

Thanks for the info Jon. Grizzly is local to me in the NW so I'll most likely go with them since the price difference is minimal.

Also how did you make the actual double shear bracket part of your selector rod?

[5mall5nail5]

Also how did you make the actual double shear bracket part of your selector rod?

I drew it up in Solidworks and had a buddy machine it on a CNC.

[Def]

Just pick up a replacement board if you have to. They're pretty cheap. Is it a 7x10/12/14?

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...3042&category=

I have a 7x12. I think it's a Cummins (I know right?). Don't think they're sold anymore. But I'll buy some mosfets for $10. Not sure about a $140 board. That's about 40% of what I paid for the lathe.

[futureroadracer]

My junk really doesn't belong in this thread but... Mocked up and installed the 3.5" exhaust. I'm running a Vibrant 18" resonator, Vibrant black muffler and aluminized steel cause I'm ghetto. Lincoln 140amp mig with .030 wire and 100% argon. I did it in my driveway on my back. FYI- My neighbors love me!









Old (gross) vs new

[5mall5nail5]

Doesn't look too bad Ryan.

You want a argon CO2 mix for mild though! Doesn't matter at this point haha.

[futureroadracer]

Thanks.
Yea I read that a while back. The welding supply store recommend 100% Argon a while back and I've used 100% then entire time. Seems to do OK. Honestly, the little 140a Lincoln is a handy little machine. Works very well considering.

Took about 3.5-4hrs from start to finish including a Mac & Cheese break.

Sounds deeper, it's a bit louder than the dynomax but nothing unbearable. Sounds good and I'm pretty happy overall.

Hope the cleaner, larger exhaust and straight through muffler will pick up a few ponies.

[Fender13Bender]

Nothing wrong with aluminized steel, been using it on my car for years.

[futureroadracer]

Nothing wrong with aluminized steel, been using it on my car for years.

I know, I was messing around since most of the guys are using stainless or aluminum in this thread.

[Fender13Bender]

Too baller for me!

[Fender13Bender]

Too baller for me!

[Def]

For a 140 amp MIG definitely go with C25 and 0.023" ER70S6 wire. The machine doesn't really have the amps to push the 0.030" wire, and the thicker wire lacks the finesse of 0.023" on thinner stuff where the 120V MIGs really shine.

With 0.023" you can max the machine out in thickness before you run out of wire feed (that's basically what they're designed around).

[futureroadracer]

For a 140 amp MIG definitely go with C25 and 0.023" ER70S6 wire. The machine doesn't really have the amps to push the 0.030" wire, and the thicker wire lacks the finesse of 0.023" on thinner stuff where the 120V MIGs really shine.

With 0.023" you can max the machine out in thickness before you run out of wire feed (that's basically what they're designed around).

Good stuff, thanks! I've had the welder for about a year and haven't used it too much. I used what the welding store recommended and it's worked pretty well. Maybe I'll pick up some smaller wire and give it a go.

[raoke]

Broke my Mig virginity yesterday!

[futureroadracer]

Broke my Mig virginity yesterday!

Looks good. That's how I weld too, hi heat one bead at a time.

[5mall5nail5]

Ryan, not a good way to do it! You really want to keep a continue run going. Have you ever seen the "weldingtipsandtricks" youtube channel? He (Jode) is VERY good at explaining everything and it's fun to watch.

[futureroadracer]

Ryan, not a good way to do it! You really want to keep a continue run going. Have you ever seen the "weldingtipsandtricks" youtube channel? He (Jode) is VERY good at explaining everything and it's fun to watch.

I'm sure but, with my small welder and when building my intercooler and exhaust it worked great. It allowed me to get better penetration and ultimately a better weld. I didn't have one leak in the intercooler or exhaust tubing when using this method.

I'll check out that link though.

[5mall5nail5]

It might look like better penetration but you'd be surprised. For something structural like those brackets above its a terrible practice. Not trying to start crap just trying to be honest. Look at all the splatter from start/stop. That splatter is all a result of lack of shielding, and lack of shielding = weld contamination.

[Def]

AHHHH!!!! THE PINHOLES!!!! Definitely don't make a row of tacks. The chill lines of each tack run completely around their circumference, which is a natural stress riser. In a continuous weld the chill lines are just on the outside edge of the weld and usually very minor since everything heats up nicely once you get going.

Go in a continuous motion making a lower case cursive e motion with the torch. I prefer to push with GMAW, pull with FCAW (and generally stay away from it on anything thinner than 1/8" if I can).


As for my welding plans... the Hobart EZ-Tig 165i went up over 10% on Cyberweld, so I'm super bummed. I was going to be ordering it in a couple of weeks after we close on the house...

So the Thermal Arc 186 is in the running, but it's honestly more machine than I need, and a little more than I really wanted to spend. I had convinced myself to stay away, but the Everlast 185 TIG is starting to look a little more attractive compared to a near $1400ish Miller/Hobart 165 Amp machine. The 185 seems to be a little more trouble free than their more complicated designs (which again, I don't feel I'll honestly need).


Sigh... sometimes it's hard to keep things in the US... But I've also heard all the boards in the "US-Made" welders are all made in China. Not much assembling if you just plug some electrical connectors together and zip a few screws in a pre-made case...

[5mall5nail5]

The only complain I would have with the Everlast 185 other than it being a risk of DOA, is that the foot pedal is the silliest thing I've ever seen. On every TIG machine if you set your amperage to 70A then the pedal goes from 0 - 70A. On the Everlast machines you can set your amperage to 70A but the pedal goes to the machines max amperage every time. So you have to limit yourself, or something. I've read that people are really dissatisfied with the pedal logic.

Here's a brief thread on it http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p...8&postcount=24

They weld pretty well once you're accustomed to it. I just like being able to go to any machine and being more familiar. If they'd fix the foot pedal I might consider one.

[Def]

Yea, the full amperage range on the pedal is a concern of mine as well. Their 200DX limits amperage at the panel, but it's probably getting more into power that I would likely not use very often and cost is creeping up closer to a range where I'd not be looking at Everlast.


I do laugh at all the weldingweb guys talking about how 120V MIGs can't even hot glue together 16 Ga sheet metal, and you need a 300 amp welder to even consider doing something like an outside edge joint on 1/4" aluminum.

I think too many of them have been doing production work for so long they forgot what it's like to not weld super hot and quick.

But after saying that.. Jody at WTT.com was welding all sorts of thin stuff with it. He's obviously very good, but the pedal seems to have enough throw to do ok on the range its got.

[wazzu70]

Starting my metal fab class tomorrow, woohoo! Don't expect to learn anything too technical but it should be fun

We will be going over arc, mig, tig, oxyacetylene, plasmacutting, lathe, mill and more. Should be fun and the shop instructor usually lets you work on your own projects towards the end of the semester hopefully I'll be able to do my IC piping and get a crack at making a manifold.

Anybody tried the harbor freight mini-lathe?

Join the FSAE club and you should have all kinds of access to the shop. I designed the chassis for the first car.

The class you are talking about is pretty fun, still have my top