I'm sure someone has. You can give it a shot but get a spare TB. Just take your time and weld a little bit at a time. Maybe even do a series of hot tacks - a dab or two, go to the other side, a dab or two, let it cool. I think that would keep the heat soak low enough to not hurt anything.
First time doing this, but .....
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Me and Juggs were texting pictures back and forth earlier this year of welding coke cans together. He won. I was trying to do it with fixed amperage and a finger switch. I would do okay for about an inch and then burn through. I was going to hook my pedal up but I couldn't find it.
Yeah with any thin alu, a pedal is pretty much a must due to the heatsoak of the metal - you want to ramp it up and turn it up as you start and then back off as things heat up. Or all alu really but for thicker it's just better, not required. Coke cans, razor blades and an aluminum T fillet joint coupon are my favourite business cards.
Yep, that's how to do it. You can also put the electronic bits of the TB and the bottom of it in a pan of water. Just don't touch it as you risk getting a HF shock through it obviously. You're going to need to go slow, but it should keep the temp of the TB manageable.
Being in the industry, this is pretty dead on.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Likewise, but I've got a couple other steps, depending on circumstances (I've seen the look of sheer terror on customer's faces when they see me go under their car with a torch, lol)...
If it's a large enough diameter thread, one I'm not likely to__or don't care if I do__shear off, then I bring out this bad boy: Armstrong (!) 4:1 torque multiplier! It also gets used when tightening those axle hub nuts, as I only have to pull 75Nm to achieve a final torque of 300Nm. When a customer sees this__very often the first time ever__their reaction is tremendously positive!
And reassembly is the reverse (can't do that with a torch).
The last resort before breaking out the oxy-acetylene torch is an induction heating coil. With a very high success rate on removing the header exhaust to pipe flange nuts, this tool produces a look of wonderment on a customer's face; I expect that David Blaine is used to getting much the same reaction from his audiences, lol!
Also works great to pinpoint heat for tool adjustments.
Turns out that these get used a lot more than expected; box-end for TMS "shorty" headers, and I use the open-end almost every time I am undoing a brake pipe/hose fitting, because it's faster than wielding a full size tool.
Last edited by Randy Forbes; 11-06-2017 at 08:17 AM.
A trick I learned in college for bolts and nuts that don't know there place in the world. Heat the bolt or nut or pipe plug up red hot with a torch or tig welder, then immediately quench it with a stick of paraffin wax or a candle. The wax wicks into the threads and they will usually come out with your fingers once cool.
Another neat trick for broken bolts. If the stick up out of the hole put a nut over it and weld it on the end with a mig or tig. The heat almost always gets the loose enough to take out. If its broken flush drill a small hole through the center of the bolt. If it's a blind hole heat it up red hot, quench it with wax and use an EZ out. If it's a through hole heat it red hot with a cutting torch and hit the oxygen straight down the center of the hole. It will blow the bolt through and leave the threads intact. I've done that many times. Unfortunately I don't have an oxygen torch anymore
XLNT tips all!
I've been doing the wax-thing for decades, long before the web and digital pics (I first saw it as a "reader's tip" in a Hot Rod magazine from the 80s) and it is my 2nd line of defense, as soon as the PB Blaster fails to make the fastener fall off. When it comes to the exhaust flange, I often just go that route right out the gate!
I always keep an old candle in the top drawer of one of my roll-aways.
Being in NE, all we deal with is rust. Literally every day, every vehicle has some sort of rust/corrosion. Changing exhausts on Toyota's and well every other brand can be time consuming. Especially Toyota. They use self locking nuts and usually blind so, you for sure don't want to break them. You gotta get them glowing red, then let them cool for 10 seconds. Then....... Ready for this, I use crayon yes crayons. Feed it into the threads. It melts in and doesn't evaporate like PB/WD/deep creep. Also, doesn't flame up. Works like a charm.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Just think how many hundreds of thousands of man hours would be saved if the factories would just anti seize all that shit when they built it.
so i assume everyone here watches bob moffet and jody and 6061
I've never heard of Bob Moffet. I did pay the money to 6061, and I feel it was worth it. At some point when your arc length and filler feed are getting decent it's kind of nice to have someone give you some additional solid information that you can just implement instead of going through tank after tank of argon to figure it all out the hard way. Jody does a great job too, but 6061 just nails it.
[QUOTE=Butters Stoch;29876121]Being in NE, all we deal with is rust. Literally every day, every vehicle has some sort of rust/corrosion. Changing exhausts on Toyota's and well every other brand can be time consuming. Especially Toyota. They use self locking nuts and usually blind so, you for sure don't want to break them. You gotta get them glowing red, then let them cool for 10 seconds. Then....... Ready for this, I use crayon yes crayons. Feed it into the threads. It melts in and doesn't evaporate like PB/WD/deep creep. Also, doesn't flame up. Works like a charm.
In AZ our cars are rust free for the most part. I have never seen these types of issues but if I do, now I know how to approach it.
She's built like a steakhouse but handles like a bistro
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
32 oz ball pean hammer hitting the head of the bolt works too. Also has to be hit damn hard usually. I've had a 1000 ft lb impact not be able to remove a fastener then double hand the hammer on the bolt and remove it with gear wrench lol. (Especially works well where they used loctite from the factory)
Last edited by Mklock; 11-10-2017 at 07:02 PM.
I am redoing my wastegate recirculation pipe. Can someone tell me, does it matter if the pipe recirculates before or after the 02 and wideband sensors?
She's built like a steakhouse but handles like a bistro
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