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Thread: Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

  1. #1876
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    Quote Originally Posted by e46cruiser View Post
    Has anyone here welded a DBW throttle body? I was talking to my fabricator about welding an elbow along with a vangen clamp onto it but he’s worried about the DBW electronics of the E46 throttle body.
    Yeah if I were to do it I'd definitely want to disassemble it fully. Even if you take out the electronics you might still get heat into some place you don't want it, like some plastic bushing or seal.

  2. #1877
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    Yeah if I were to do it I'd definitely want to disassemble it fully. Even if you take out the electronics you might still get heat into some place you don't want it, like some plastic bushing or seal.
    Yeah I was hoping there was a way to take out the electronics but looks like VDO’s are non-serviceable. Looks like I’ll hve to stick with a coupler for that elbow! I was hoping someone had done it before!
    | BAGGEDE46 |

  3. #1878
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    Quote Originally Posted by e46cruiser View Post
    Yeah I was hoping there was a way to take out the electronics but looks like VDO’s are non-serviceable. Looks like I’ll hve to stick with a coupler for that elbow! I was hoping someone had done it before!
    I'm sure someone has. You can give it a shot but get a spare TB. Just take your time and weld a little bit at a time. Maybe even do a series of hot tacks - a dab or two, go to the other side, a dab or two, let it cool. I think that would keep the heat soak low enough to not hurt anything.

  4. #1879
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    First time doing this, but .....


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  5. #1880
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    First time doing this, but .....


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  6. #1881
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    Me and Juggs were texting pictures back and forth earlier this year of welding coke cans together. He won. I was trying to do it with fixed amperage and a finger switch. I would do okay for about an inch and then burn through. I was going to hook my pedal up but I couldn't find it.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
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  7. #1882
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    Me and Juggs were texting pictures back and forth earlier this year of welding coke cans together. He won. I was trying to do it with fixed amperage and a finger switch. I would do okay for about an inch and then burn through. I was going to hook my pedal up but I couldn't find it.
    Yeah with any thin alu, a pedal is pretty much a must due to the heatsoak of the metal - you want to ramp it up and turn it up as you start and then back off as things heat up. Or all alu really but for thicker it's just better, not required. Coke cans, razor blades and an aluminum T fillet joint coupon are my favourite business cards.

  8. #1883
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    I'm sure someone has. You can give it a shot but get a spare TB. Just take your time and weld a little bit at a time. Maybe even do a series of hot tacks - a dab or two, go to the other side, a dab or two, let it cool. I think that would keep the heat soak low enough to not hurt anything.
    Yep, that's how to do it. You can also put the electronic bits of the TB and the bottom of it in a pan of water. Just don't touch it as you risk getting a HF shock through it obviously. You're going to need to go slow, but it should keep the temp of the TB manageable.

  9. #1884
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    I'm sure someone has. You can give it a shot but get a spare TB. Just take your time and weld a little bit at a time. Maybe even do a series of hot tacks - a dab or two, go to the other side, a dab or two, let it cool. I think that would keep the heat soak low enough to not hurt anything.
    Remove as much as possible, but don't forget, it's strapped to an engine under an engine bay - its HOT under there. Through heat transfer and radiating heat, I think you'd be OK welding it in small sections.

  10. #1885
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    Being in the industry, this is pretty dead on.

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  11. #1886
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Being in the industry, this is pretty dead on.

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    Likewise, but I've got a couple other steps, depending on circumstances (I've seen the look of sheer terror on customer's faces when they see me go under their car with a torch, lol)...

    If it's a large enough diameter thread, one I'm not likely to__or don't care if I do__shear off, then I bring out this bad boy: Armstrong (!) 4:1 torque multiplier! It also gets used when tightening those axle hub nuts, as I only have to pull 75Nm to achieve a final torque of 300Nm. When a customer sees this__very often the first time ever__their reaction is tremendously positive!



    And reassembly is the reverse (can't do that with a torch).





    The last resort before breaking out the oxy-acetylene torch is an induction heating coil. With a very high success rate on removing the header exhaust to pipe flange nuts, this tool produces a look of wonderment on a customer's face; I expect that David Blaine is used to getting much the same reaction from his audiences, lol!



    Also works great to pinpoint heat for tool adjustments.



    Turns out that these get used a lot more than expected; box-end for TMS "shorty" headers, and I use the open-end almost every time I am undoing a brake pipe/hose fitting, because it's faster than wielding a full size tool.

    Last edited by Randy Forbes; 11-06-2017 at 08:17 AM.

  12. #1887
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    A trick I learned in college for bolts and nuts that don't know there place in the world. Heat the bolt or nut or pipe plug up red hot with a torch or tig welder, then immediately quench it with a stick of paraffin wax or a candle. The wax wicks into the threads and they will usually come out with your fingers once cool.

    Another neat trick for broken bolts. If the stick up out of the hole put a nut over it and weld it on the end with a mig or tig. The heat almost always gets the loose enough to take out. If its broken flush drill a small hole through the center of the bolt. If it's a blind hole heat it up red hot, quench it with wax and use an EZ out. If it's a through hole heat it red hot with a cutting torch and hit the oxygen straight down the center of the hole. It will blow the bolt through and leave the threads intact. I've done that many times. Unfortunately I don't have an oxygen torch anymore


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  13. #1888
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    A trick I learned in college for bolts and nuts that don't know there place in the world. Heat the bolt or nut or pipe plug up red hot with a torch or tig welder, then immediately quench it with a stick of paraffin wax or a candle. The wax wicks into the threads and they will usually come out with your fingers once cool.

    Another neat trick for broken bolts. If the stick up out of the hole put a nut over it and weld it on the end with a mig or tig. The heat almost always gets the loose enough to take out. If its broken flush drill a small hole through the center of the bolt. If it's a blind hole heat it up red hot, quench it with wax and use an EZ out. If it's a through hole heat it red hot with a cutting torch and hit the oxygen straight down the center of the hole. It will blow the bolt through and leave the threads intact. I've done that many times. Unfortunately I don't have an oxygen torch anymore
    XLNT tips all!

    I've been doing the wax-thing for decades, long before the web and digital pics (I first saw it as a "reader's tip" in a Hot Rod magazine from the 80s) and it is my 2nd line of defense, as soon as the PB Blaster fails to make the fastener fall off. When it comes to the exhaust flange, I often just go that route right out the gate!

    I always keep an old candle in the top drawer of one of my roll-aways.


  14. #1889
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    Being in NE, all we deal with is rust. Literally every day, every vehicle has some sort of rust/corrosion. Changing exhausts on Toyota's and well every other brand can be time consuming. Especially Toyota. They use self locking nuts and usually blind so, you for sure don't want to break them. You gotta get them glowing red, then let them cool for 10 seconds. Then....... Ready for this, I use crayon yes crayons. Feed it into the threads. It melts in and doesn't evaporate like PB/WD/deep creep. Also, doesn't flame up. Works like a charm.

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  15. #1890
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    Just think how many hundreds of thousands of man hours would be saved if the factories would just anti seize all that shit when they built it.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  16. #1891
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    so i assume everyone here watches bob moffet and jody and 6061

  17. #1892
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    I've never heard of Bob Moffet. I did pay the money to 6061, and I feel it was worth it. At some point when your arc length and filler feed are getting decent it's kind of nice to have someone give you some additional solid information that you can just implement instead of going through tank after tank of argon to figure it all out the hard way. Jody does a great job too, but 6061 just nails it.

  18. #1893
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Being in NE, all we deal with is rust. Literally every day, every vehicle has some sort of rust/corrosion. Changing exhausts on Toyota's and well every other brand can be time consuming. Especially Toyota. They use self locking nuts and usually blind so, you for sure don't want to break them. You gotta get them glowing red, then let them cool for 10 seconds. Then....... Ready for this, I use crayon yes crayons. Feed it into the threads. It melts in and doesn't evaporate like PB/WD/deep creep. Also, doesn't flame up. Works like a charm.

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    That's awesome

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  19. #1894
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    [QUOTE=Butters Stoch;29876121]Being in NE, all we deal with is rust. Literally every day, every vehicle has some sort of rust/corrosion. Changing exhausts on Toyota's and well every other brand can be time consuming. Especially Toyota. They use self locking nuts and usually blind so, you for sure don't want to break them. You gotta get them glowing red, then let them cool for 10 seconds. Then....... Ready for this, I use crayon yes crayons. Feed it into the threads. It melts in and doesn't evaporate like PB/WD/deep creep. Also, doesn't flame up. Works like a charm.

    In AZ our cars are rust free for the most part. I have never seen these types of issues but if I do, now I know how to approach it.

    She's built like a steakhouse but handles like a bistro

  20. #1895
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    If you ever get a car from north of Kansas your going to have a fist fight with every nut and bolt under it


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  21. #1896
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    If you ever get a car from north of Kansas your going to have a fist fight with every nut and bolt under it
    Every car , every day this is my life

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
    WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM

  22. #1897
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    32 oz ball pean hammer hitting the head of the bolt works too. Also has to be hit damn hard usually. I've had a 1000 ft lb impact not be able to remove a fastener then double hand the hammer on the bolt and remove it with gear wrench lol. (Especially works well where they used loctite from the factory)
    Last edited by Mklock; 11-10-2017 at 07:02 PM.

  23. #1898
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    32 oz ball pean hammer hitting the head of the bolt works too. Also has to be hit damn hard usually. I've had a 1000 ft lb impact not be able to remove a fastener then double hand the hammer on the bolt and remove it with gear wrench lol. (Especially works well where they used loctite from the factory)
    I would be a millionaire by now if a 2 LB ball peen hammer loosened up a god damn thing lol. You must be Thor and by ball peen hammer you have to mean witch craft hahaha

  24. #1899
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    I am redoing my wastegate recirculation pipe. Can someone tell me, does it matter if the pipe recirculates before or after the 02 and wideband sensors?

    She's built like a steakhouse but handles like a bistro

  25. #1900
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    Doesn't matter


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

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