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Thread: Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

  1. #1951
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    I hear you on the glides for circle track stuff, but those are usually set up in some way without a torque converter, aren't they? I have been under the impression that most people who run autos in autoX usually run 3-speeds like TH400s or TH350s, but I really didn't know.. What torque converter characteristics do you have in mind for your setup?

  2. #1952
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    Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

    It’s not a competitive autocross car. Obviously these mods put it into some crazy unlimited class. It’s just for fun.

    And depending on circle track classing, they are actually required to run a converter. My buddies used to get “creative” with the rules and only ran a converter shell but was direct drive until they got smart and started using IR to check heat on “converter”.

    I have a 10:1 5.3l on e85, driving only a single 80mm turbo. Smallish crossover diameter to keep up velocity. Plan is to have enough off Boost and low boost tq, to flash the converter to the engine’s happy zone quickly. Should be a nice 5k-7kish setup that has minimal “lag” and still make 1000whp when needed. I also have a dry shot of nitrous in the car from 4g63 days, that I will plumb pre turbo for cooling the whole charge. Can be used for spool if needed too but I doubt it will be. That worked great for 2.0 and 69mm turbo on the autocross though.

    9.5” converter. Steel stator. 1.80 straight cut 1st gear. 1:1 2nd/drive gear. 3.31 rear end (also have a 3.56 on shelf.) 26.5” street tires. Will have 28x10.5 for drag. 1st gear should have plenty of usable speed range for autocross with the magic of converter.
    Last edited by familyMAN; 05-09-2018 at 12:19 PM.
    1992 3000GT VR4. 4g63 Swap. DSM 2g Auto Trans. 10:1, E85, AEM, FP Super 99 turbo. Best ET 9.98...Best MPH 137.8

  3. #1953
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    That sounds excellent! So is that 9.5" converter a PTC ~$1,000 one? I'm not up on glides, but I'm guessing that straight cut first gear must be aftermarket? What does it cost to put together a decently strong glide? I just built a TH400, and that was fun.
    Last edited by tptrsn; 05-09-2018 at 02:17 PM.

  4. #1954
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    Yes $1k for converter. Free restall in first 30 days.

    Yes aftermarket straight cut 1st 1.80 (many other ratio options.) 10 clutch pack and other internal upgrades. SFI rated aftermarket case. Rated to approx 1800HP. $3500.

    You can build a glide fairly inexpensively on your own, the case is weak point though if you send a bunch of power to them. Aftermarket case is $800-1000. No scattershield needed if drag racing as case if SFI rated for containment. So at that point, I was better off just buying a prebuilt trans by any number of big shops. PTC has great reviews on converters from turbo guys so that swayed my decision. (And cost. Little bit cheaper than BTE, Trans Specialties, etc).
    1992 3000GT VR4. 4g63 Swap. DSM 2g Auto Trans. 10:1, E85, AEM, FP Super 99 turbo. Best ET 9.98...Best MPH 137.8

  5. #1955
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    Been messing with titanium. It's a fun metal to weld once you figure out a few quirks it has, in addition to being an argon whore. Not sure if I am going to trim down the exit pipe or just run it Bosozoku style

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  6. #1956
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  7. #1957
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    Quote Originally Posted by tptrsn View Post
    Nice work Juggs! Are you building a drift car, or SLR for road racing setup?
    Thank you sir. For teh road racing. Makes the car feel so much better, especially the steering speed. BMW steering is painfully slow on track.

  8. #1958
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    Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

    hot pipe. Need to add BOV and iat bung. And weld a little lip on TB side so coupler doesn’t blow off. (Won’t be using this crank pulley. Have a shorter one.)
    1992 3000GT VR4. 4g63 Swap. DSM 2g Auto Trans. 10:1, E85, AEM, FP Super 99 turbo. Best ET 9.98...Best MPH 137.8

  9. #1959
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  10. #1960
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    Stainless cover for the 210 diff with oil cooler provision. Huge thanks to someguy2800 for the flange!!!


    nFP7wEh.jpg

  11. #1961
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    Stainless cover for the 210 diff with oil cooler provision. Huge thanks to someguy2800 for the flange!!!


    nFP7wEh.jpg
    Very nice.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 535i - sold
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    PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  12. #1962
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    VSS not needed?

  13. #1963
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    VSS not needed?
    No, I ditched the trigger ring to clear the M3 cover and use a wheel sensor. But I was actually going to put it back with this cover, waited weeks for the ring to come in from Germany and after all that, spent over an hour trying to press the ring back on the carrier and gave up.

  14. #1964
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    spent over an hour trying to press the ring back on the carrier and gave up.
    I ended up tack welding the ring (salad chopper ring, right?) onto the LSD. The fit wasn't quite right after I had to cut down the "tongs" of a 6 cyl ring to fit in a 4 cyl housing. Kept popping off. 4 little tack welds and it's been good for a really long time.


  15. #1965
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakermac View Post
    I ended up tack welding the ring (salad chopper ring, right?) onto the LSD. The fit wasn't quite right after I had to cut down the "tongs" of a 6 cyl ring to fit in a 4 cyl housing. Kept popping off. 4 little tack welds and it's been good for a really long time.
    I'm sure I would have figured it out eventually, with enough heat and hammering. But I ran out of fucks to give. Plus fine metal shavings were coming off of it during each attempt, I was worried about getting them in the bearing or bashing the bearing by accident. Whatever, the wheel sensor signal works fine, I'd just prefer to pick up from the diff if I can.

  16. #1966
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    Your diff cover has nipples Juggy.
    www.prussianmotors.com '95 PT6262 330ti / '03 Maximum PSI M3t on e85 / '00 540 6spd / '01 M5 / '01 M Coupe

  17. #1967
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubela View Post
    Your diff cover has nipples Juggy.
    Like in Total Recall

  18. #1968
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    m50 turbo w123, 4g63 e30
    Roll cage progress on my z3

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  19. #1969
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boostedhoopty View Post
    Roll cage progress on my z3

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    whats the plans for that car?


    86 325es, 2.8L NV m50, S366, Megasquirt 2, e85, solid rear axle, 4 link, spool, T56 Magnum trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties
    Best = 9.43 @ 149.15 mph, 1.30 60 foot 28 psi boost

  20. #1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    whats the plans for that car?
    No kidding!!!

    Side exit exhaust.

    Drag seat.

    I'm assuming the backstays are going from the main hoop corners to the plates on the rear frame rails?

  21. #1971
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    No kidding!!!

    Side exit exhaust.

    Drag seat.

    I'm assuming the backstays are going from the main hoop corners to the plates on the rear frame rails?
    Correct. It's going to be setup for drag racing primarily. The plan is to max out the 6266 or the stock pistons, whatever happens first haha. Still has a 5 speed zf and 188mm diff

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  22. #1972
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    No, I ditched the trigger ring to clear the M3 cover and use a wheel sensor. But I was actually going to put it back with this cover, waited weeks for the ring to come in from Germany and after all that, spent over an hour trying to press the ring back on the carrier and gave up.
    I have stacks of those rings. Stacks!

    I'd have sent you one for postage (they used to be less than $5 each, now a little more than double that).

    Trick to getting them on, I've found, is a roll of duct tape, a piece of a 4x4x6-8" wood, and a BFH. Position the ring as squarely as you can, with the (preferably full) roll of duct tape on top of it; place the block of wood across the roll, and ONE BIG WALLOP! I then go around it with a blunted chisel to make sure its fully seated. pass a magnet around it to gather any shavings, and straighten__if needed__any blades that were misaligned in the process.

    I did one a couple days ago, and drove it fully home with one (1) hit! Remember, I'm all the time putting E-36 covers on M Rdstrs & Coupes, so swapping to a smaller diameter wheel is routine stuff.

    (note that I have since substituted the BMW hub-flange tool seen to the left of the differential for the roll of duct tape, but same procedure involved)


  23. #1973
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    Bye everybody, I fucking quit.


  24. #1974
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    Your word is all we have. You a lady of your word ?
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  25. #1975
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Your word is all we have. You a lady of your word ?
    No, changed my mind already.

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