The trick with stainless is you must use absolutely zero pressure. Otherwise it melts very easily and deposits on the blade.
It does work for sharpening the blades but the trick I found was not to sharpen the teeth the way most people including the instructions show you. In my case and in your case, it's not the front of the teeth that needs attention but the top. I was able to successfully revive my blade with the sharpener once I realized this - sharpening the faces of the teeth did nothing.
So that sharpener can be brought around to do a nice job on the tops? I guess I'll have to pick one up. Especially if it's also good for tungstens.
So much so that I bought two of them. I have one I stripped down to only the stand motor and blade for the tungsten, and one fully dressed for blade sharpening.
Sorry to actually answer your question, yeah you're actually supposed to do that but the online DIYs and the manual focus on sharpening the front of the tooth. This made no difference for my blade so I was ready to give up on it and just use it for tungsten but I found a guy who said exactly what I'm saying that the real benefit is from cleaning up the tops. But you can and should do both and the sharpener will support it. It's basically just an arbitrarily adjustable arm with a centering spring loaded cone for the blade, and you can line up one tooth exactly how you want, adjust the blade stop (if you want, I'm not sure what the point is, it's not that easy to overgrind a tooth, and big deal if one is a tiny bit more ground than another) and go.
Last edited by TheJuggernaut; 10-22-2017 at 04:04 PM.
Dimes
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1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Very nice!
1992 3000GT VR4. 4g63 Swap. DSM 2g Auto Trans. 10:1, E85, AEM, FP Super 99 turbo. Best ET 9.98...Best MPH 137.8
I've been playing around w/ different tungsten. For stainless, I'm not a fan of what I used on that aluminium. That was E3 rare earth. I have a bunch of it as it was given to me. But seems OK for aluminium. I've kinda been only using 2% thoriated for steel and 2% lanthanated for aluminium. But, I guess this e3 isn't so bad.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
I have a bit different approach...does it hold 50+ psi Boost?...yes....okay it's a good weld.
1992 3000GT VR4. 4g63 Swap. DSM 2g Auto Trans. 10:1, E85, AEM, FP Super 99 turbo. Best ET 9.98...Best MPH 137.8
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
It is hard to argue with that logic, but I have to say making pretty welds is a bit of an addiction. Once it starts happening, you want more and more.
On that point, what I've recently found for making nice shiny dimes is that I get better appearance when I don't drop the amps between dabs. Steady pedal and just rather aggressive dab and move makes some pretty stuff happen.
I wouldn't say it's hard to argue with that logic, it's pretty easy in fact. Many visual weld attributes that are aesthetically appealing also indicate weld quality. Sometimes it's the opposite like the rainbow colors for stainless and titanium but an ugly grey steel weld, a chalky or black speckled aluminum weld are compromised. Beads with good penetration and consistent size will look appealingly uniform. A weld may be good enough but that doesn't mean it's good. I personally strive for the best quality I can even if I don't need to. Like they say, don't train until you can do it right, train until you can't do it wrong. Ok I get a kick out of it too.
The general ignorant public thinks the better it looks the better it is. Pretty sells.
Also, there is no reason why you can't make it look good. Especially with aluminium. You have infinite chances to make it look nice.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
You been watching some 6061.com there Butters?
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
you need to take some close ups of these dimes butters
on the dimes thing, in my opinion, if the guy can make perfect immaculate dimes on his work
he knows exactly what he's doing; Therefore, a good welder.
here's mine after figuring out how to make them on my practice plate.
Practice beads by jet jones, on Flickr
Last edited by Robocop; 10-23-2017 at 06:37 PM.
My original comment was a joke guys. But since we are talking about it, I've seen beautiful "dimes" that were barely past surface deep; wouldn't survive on my car with vibration and pressure. I think my Powdercoating was probably stronger, but they "looked" pretty.
1992 3000GT VR4. 4g63 Swap. DSM 2g Auto Trans. 10:1, E85, AEM, FP Super 99 turbo. Best ET 9.98...Best MPH 137.8
I weld more or less a steady motion so I get more ripples than dimes. I'm way more concerned with penetration, adequate amount of filler, and trying to keep good gas coverage and the amount of crap floating around in the weld than I am about the look of the bead
what is the tungsten of choice for aluminum in your guys opinions? I am thinking I need to delve out into other tungsten and see if my welds get any better looking.
I don't know, my phone doesn't take very good pics, so probably really blurry. But, this was messing around with that e3 tungsten stuff.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Those look good to my untrained eyes. My issue is most definitely lack of practice and knowledge.
Needs more heat or to slow down at the start. The penetration is good at the end when the part was heat soaked. I use a fixed amperage and just change my speed to control penetration
Id guess slow down and smaller faster dabs.
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Has anyone here welded a DBW throttle body? I was talking to my fabricator about welding an elbow along with a vangen clamp onto it but he’s worried about the DBW electronics of the E46 throttle body.
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