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Thread: Forced Induction Section Fabrication Thread

  1. #1926
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    Project boost control progressing well. Just need to figure out the hood exit screamer.

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  2. #1927
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    is there a problem with those trans mounts breaking or just bored?

  3. #1928
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    Tap stalk does suck. I just use the Mobil version of the BF.com site now. Facebook is the most painful for me.

  4. #1929
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robocop View Post
    is there a problem with those trans mounts breaking or just bored?
    I have broken 1. I guess its boredom. But they do sell reinforced braces. Dunno

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  5. #1930
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    Anyone need a vanos bolt ? Have a few sitting around also a few stainless 4AN fittings. So, I made one.

    Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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  6. #1931
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    Shortened my heavy wall driveshaft for e30kid89 for his 420G swap. My friend machined an 040 sleeve to be press-fit inside. Tacked it, autogenous root to the sleeve, then cover pass. Turned out awesome, smooth weld barely above surface with full pen and about 0.0025 runout, which is better than what the "professional" driveshaft shop did when they re-tubed it.

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  7. #1932
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  8. #1933
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    That's fantastic!! I've been pondering ways I could hack together my own driveshaft when I get the TH400 in. I don't have a lathe though, so everything will be complicated/worse.

  9. #1934
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    Quote Originally Posted by tptrsn View Post
    That's fantastic!! I've been pondering ways I could hack together my own driveshaft when I get the TH400 in. I don't have a lathe though, so everything will be complicated/worse.
    The first one I did was a stock tube which he pretzeled at the other end. I did it with a chop saw and welded it clamped in some angle iron. The stock shaft is really thin wall though so ideally you'd want to re-tube it. Cut the ends off and get a machine shop to machine you a tube that fits between the ends with lips to fit inside the ends as flanges. The DOM tube I got is .095 wall and it would work nicely with a machined lip to align the ends. That's how I'd do it if I was doing it again from scratch.

  10. #1935
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    Thanks for the ideas! Is there a normal place for the stock shafts to twist and pretzel? As in, might I be able to get away with making a new front half with a regular 1310 u-joint flange at the front end, and keep my stock stuff from the CSB rearward? I need to get busy on this trans project soon after the holidays.

  11. #1936
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    Quote Originally Posted by tptrsn View Post
    Thanks for the ideas! Is there a normal place for the stock shafts to twist and pretzel? As in, might I be able to get away with making a new front half with a regular 1310 u-joint flange at the front end, and keep my stock stuff from the CSB rearward? I need to get busy on this trans project soon after the holidays.
    This is very anecdotal but all of the twizzlers I've seen seem to be at the front by the guibo. So if you do a relatively heavy wall tube and a beefy 1310 with a solid joint for the front half, you should be in good shape to make it last, in my opinion... If you eventually kill the rear you could retube it then.

  12. #1937
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    Thanks, that sounds like a great little project to try!

    When you did the driveshaft project with the angle iron, did it work out? Did you use an alignment insert sleeve on that one or just completely "go for it!"?

  13. #1938
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    No I just butt-welded it while clamped. Yep, worked out quite well. It was a bit of a hassle trying to get it to stay straight because even with the clamps it wanted to pull out of whack from the welds. But it only took a few adjustments, pop a tack, adjust, reweld, check etc... The most important thing was to do it close to the end. Mainly because any distortion won't be magnified as much as if it were further into the length (greater runout from the same angle). Also if you use a sleeve you don't want extra mass in the middle of the shaft.

    But since you're not shortening a shaft but making a new one, I'd recommend doing what I said, machine the pieces to slip together. That way you don't have to worry about concentricity and just get things square after tacking it down. Just be careful of getting too much heat into it. Trying to do it all at once will make things move around. You can fix it by re-heating it again and hitting it with compressed air in the right spots but it's nice to get it right the first time. But sometimes you just can't.

  14. #1939
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    Little different type on fabricating, and non Bimmer related, sorry. DIY fuel rail and injector cover.

















    Last edited by Thuppu; 12-27-2017 at 04:41 AM.

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  15. #1940
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    Quote Originally Posted by tptrsn View Post
    That's fantastic!! I've been pondering ways I could hack together my own driveshaft when I get the TH400 in. I don't have a lathe though, so everything will be complicated/worse.
    im just going to have strange build me a once piece. all said and done it should be around 500 bucks for a chromoly shaft.

  16. #1941
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kame36sedan View Post
    im just going to have strange build me a once piece. all said and done it should be around 500 bucks for a chromoly shaft.
    That's cool, how is your project progressing so far? I still haven't started mine.

  17. #1942
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    Quote Originally Posted by tptrsn View Post
    That's cool, how is your project progressing so far? I still haven't started mine.
    Still same spot. I haven't pulled it off the trailer yet lol

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