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Thread: AKG 1" bumpsteer plates fit under 17's, and probably 16's too

  1. #1
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    AKG 1" bumpsteer plates fit under 17's, and probably 16's too

    Gary posted his results from his weekend at VIR and noted it looked like the AKG 1" spacers would not fit under 17s and I just wanted to clear this up because I have read this a few times but, alas, they do in fact fit.


    AKG 1" bumpsteers on 17" wheel by Jon Kensy, on Flickr


    AKG 1" bumpsteers on 17" wheel by Jon Kensy, on Flickr

    Thats an 3/8 drive 18mm deep socket and it rolls clean and fine between the lower control arm and the barrel of the wheel. I am pretty confident this would even fit under 16" wheels. I know it sounds crazy, but it MIGHT even fit beneath 15" wheels depending. It does vary based on the wheels design though. But, you can see here an 18mm deep socket clears on the OD, which is probably more like a 22mm or more OD, I could measure, but I am lazy.

    So anyway yeah, if you have 17's its worth giving the 1" spacers a shot. Worst case you return them. You guys want a measurement of the bottom of the knuckle to a specific point I could do that but I think most 17's will work fine.

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    I'm still learning here, but I want to know what these are for? Can they be used w/ normal springs/struts or is it just coilovers??
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raziel310 View Post
    I'm still learning here, but I want to know what these are for? Can they be used w/ normal springs/struts or is it just coilovers??
    When you lower your car, your control arms are changing their angle up a lot higher since your strut/spring is now shorter. These spacers lower your control arms back down closer to the stock angle to keep geometry closer to stock as possible. This allows you lower your car without changing the suspension geometry too much.
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    I've yet to install my 1 " AKG plates but I will be running 17 and will confirm on m systems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 93FIM5 View Post
    I've yet to install my 1 " AKG plates but I will be running 17 and will confirm on m systems.
    Give the pic above I will be floored if they don't fit.

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    Agreed I bought on your advice and doubt there will be issues.

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    Would love to see if they fit under 16s! E38 basket weaves to be exact.

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    Yep i have the same AKG 1inch plates, they fit with my 17s

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    Great info Jon, do you have a stock steel spare wheel to try? It would be a huge plus if it does, that's the only downside of these plates that I can forsee.


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    I have a stock basket weave I can try. Just a time thing. Might be easier if you measured from the base of your strut housing to the wheel barrel. Then I could measure from my strut to the bottom of the knuckle of the control arm and see if they intersect.

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    I thought about trying the same thing with the 16" baskets from my touring. But Jon, we both have Wilwoods..

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    Quote Originally Posted by RVAE34 View Post
    I thought about trying the same thing with the 16" baskets from my touring. But Jon, we both have Wilwoods..
    Yeah but I can drop the caliper to fit up the wheel real quick just to try clearances. Just remove the two socket cap screws that hold the caliper to the adapter - only takes a split sec.

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    At what point (how low) does bumpsteer start to become an issue with e34's? My Touring sits on Eibach/Koni and although I sometimes have issue with lack of front suspension travel, I've never had issues with bumpsteer.
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    I would say as soon as you put a lower spring on them, they can benefit from the 13mm plate minimally.

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    This is a 17" wheel in the picture correct? Did you notice needing an alignment after installation? ive got a bbk up front and can run 16's over em. To retian that id need to be sure 16's fit before getting the 1" versions.

    jon, looking at your pictures, if those are 17's, we can assume 16's will fit. That socket most likely has a ~1" OD. Knowing that, and assuming no other variable change (inner wheel barrel design), it looks like a 16" would most definitely fit. Youd only need an extra half inch of room for a 16. I can see why you think a 15er might fit as well but it would be tight.

    As far as bumpsteer goes, ive had lowered cars for a long time. I may be accustomed to the feel, but i dont notice anything on my e34. What it may help with, is having the suspension level with the subframe, which helps with improving handling characteristics.
    Last edited by AHenry014; 10-02-2012 at 12:13 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by AHenry014 View Post
    This is a 17" wheel in the picture correct? Did you notice needing an alignment after installation? ive got a bbk up front and can run 16's over em. To retian that id need to be sure 16's fit before getting the 1" versions.

    jon, looking at your pictures, we can assume 16's will fit. That socket most likely has a ~1" OD. Knowing that, and assuming no other variable change (inner wheel barrel design), it looks like a 16" would most definitely fit. Youd only need an extra half inch of room for a 16. I can see why you think a 15er might fit as well but it would be tight.
    Yep, 17" in image. No alignment needed that I can tell.

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    cool man, thanks. looks like ill need to grab a set soon.
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    shoot. I just ordered the 1/2" on Monday but i have 17s. Thought about going with the one inch in case I get 18s in the future.

    Oh well....

    Thanks for the info.

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    Posted this in OT... does anyone have a discount code for AKG? Few parts on there I want.
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    Hmm, have you checked their facebook page? I really don't think I've seen any for them, ever


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    I haven't... But I went to check out and saw the place to plug in a promotional code. Figured I'd check before proceeding.
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    yeah, i did the same thing. I might exchange my 1/2" for an inch once it comes in.

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    So ideally you want the lower control arm parallel to the ground and would use either the 1/2" or 1" spacer to achieve that depending upon how low your car sits, right?

    I've got and will always have stock suspension on the M-Sport. But stock it sits much lower than any other stock E34 does. I wonder about the stock sway bar links being the correct length for sitting that low and if I need to get adjustable ones to better match the ride height. And also wonder about these bumpsteer plates as well. Should get underneath it and see what it looks like....
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  24. #24
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    The goal is to always have the arms flat when neutral. The wheel travels in an arc around the hinge point of the control arm. If the arm is pre-angled because of suspension geometry and the arm is off of "flat", then the wheel will be more inclined to come in and out because of that. If you start with an arm that is flat, and it deflect up and down 10 degrees, that's fine - but if you start with an arm that is up 6 degrees and it deflects up and down 10 degrees, when you rebound the toe is going to pull in and when you compress the toe is going to pull out or go neutral. It's easier to explain in person...

    Actually, here you go. Make your right hand into a fist with your index finger extended like you're pointing at someone. Turn it sideways so you're looking at the left side of your index finger and the top of your thumb. Touch your index finger to the center of your left hand. Keep your left hand vertical - your left had is your wheel and your index finger is your lower control arm, your right forearm is the car body. Now, keeping your left hand vertical, pivot your index finger up and down from "flat" - don't move your right arm or hand at all, but keep your left palm touching your finger. You will notice that when your finger is parallel to the ground your left hand is further from your right hand. When you start to angle your finger up or down your left hand moves in, closer to your right hand.

    Your wheel does exactly this - it wants to move in and out on an arc, being mechanically linked to the car. The problem with this is that the wheel is also being held in place with the thrust arm and steering arm so it can't really move in and out of the wheel well. Instead, the arc length that is the lower control arm pulls and pushes on the front side of the wheel, turning it.

  25. #25
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    Thanks Jon. Makes sense when you think about it.

    I now need to see if the lower arm is flat as well as the sway bar. I'd guess not considering how low it sits. And as the suspension parts are no different than other E34 parts I'll just need to see how far off things are and get the appropriate parts to get things in line.
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