Trailing arm bushings with arms in the car?

[bflan2001]

Do you need to pull the trailing arms completely to swap out the bushings? I don't have any of my manuals with me and I'm just looking under the car debating whether to try it or not. I've searched the forum but it seems like just about everyone pulls the whole rear end to change out the bushings.

[midlifebmw]

Uh, the issue with NOT pulling the entire rear end is the connection at the diff and rear hubs. Imagine you unbolt the bolts up "front" at the bushing location and then try and move the arms back and/or down and up to get at the bushings. Remember the mounts on the rear carrier have sides on them so you have to be able to move the arms back somehow.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vW-hT3pkPp...0/IMG_3211.JPG

Just sayin' I've been there....

[320iAman]

You dont need to drop the rear axle carrier, the trailing arms are supported underneath by three bolts,,2 on the axle carrier(the bushings to change) and one thru the rear shock absorber,Brake lines and parking brake lines and differential shafts should be removed,,its easier to get the bushings out of the trailing arm assembly and reinstall new ones otherwise a line fracture may occur.


This is fivesorg instructions with tool to remove and install bushes on e12,,parts are different.

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/traili...shing_faq.html

Make a tool that removes bushes about ~ $5 in hardware costs, I made this one...

[m20powered]

On the e21 the diff bolts on top of the subframe right? So maybe you could put a jackstand under the diff, and unbolt and lower the subframe? If so then you could do trailing arm bushings with the arms still dangling under the car, once the subframe was out of the way.

That is how I did the bushings on my e28 (since it is an 82 it uses the e12 style ones), but I had to remove the diff to get the subframe out (of course I replaced the subframe bushings also at the same time). I was happy not to have to mess with brake lines and especially the parking brake cables.

[nickstepp]

I replaced the trailing arm bushings without removing the rear carrier mount or the rear diff. I did, however, have to remove one stub axle. And the project was a real PITA. I'd recommend removing at least the stub axles outboard and the rear carrier mount.

[bflan2001]

Thanks, guys. I guess I should remove the whole thing, I have some other parts that I could put on at the same time. I'm just worried I won't get it back together by the end of the day and that's not an option right now. Guess I just need to start early!

Aman, thanks a lot for that link, that will help for sure. It also reminded me that I should replace the e-brake cables!

[gsumzzz]

Pull it and replace ALL parts related that are in need. You can give the arms a nice paint job as well. Time well invested.

[pommeree]

I did it in car.
The only other thing I remember disconnecting was the parking brake cables at the handle to let the arms swing back far enough for clearance.
I know for a fact I did not disconnect the axles, hydraulic lines or the struts.
I built a bush puller/pusher using my giant axle nut socket, some threaded rod and fender washers.
I drove the thing with a cheap impact gun.
Ream out the holes in the arm with medium grit sandpaper to get them clean and smooth.
When driving the urethane in, don't try with with their center-sleeves in place. Take those out (they just slide out) drive in the bush and then slide the sleeve back in.
Use lots of lube when driving in the new bushes.
The flange of the inboard bushing faces inboard and the flange of the outboard bushing faces outboard.
Pay attention that you don't let them mushroom!!

I think the presence of the impact wrench is what made this job "doable" vs. "PITA"

EDIT: In other words, most everything what 320iAman said.

[320iAman]

I did it in car.
The only other thing I remember disconnecting was the parking brake cables at the handle to let the arms swing back far enough for clearance.
I know for a fact I did not disconnect the axles, hydraulic lines or the struts.
I built a bush puller/pusher using my giant axle nut socket, some threaded rod and fender washers.
I drove the thing with a cheap impact gun.
Ream out the holes in the arm with medium grit sandpaper to get them clean and smooth.
When driving the urethane in, don't try with with their center-sleeves in place. Take those out (they just slide out) drive in the bush and then slide the sleeve back in.
Use lots of lube when driving in the new bushes.
The flange of the inboard bushing faces inboard and the flange of the outboard bushing faces outboard.
Pay attention that you don't let them mushroom!!

I think the presence of the impact wrench is what made this job "doable" vs. "PITA"

EDIT: What 320iAman said.

I read a post where someone did this,,leaving most stuff connected,,he said he and friend did it and it took several hours on each side,,he said the problem here was he was working on his back and it was uncomfortable and he used a dead blow hammer with a pipe to install and take out the bushes , I dont like the idea of impact wrench or hammer,,slight bend where these bushes go in -the geometry of the trailing arms change and then camber,toe ect changes,,the above tool mentioned by 5's org approximates what bmw group designed for this job and for the price is the best way to do it,,with them out and using a hydraulic press(supporting the piece against bends) is also available,,if you got a lift then pom's idea is good as your standing up working on the car,,however, I'd still use the approximate tool the bmw service manual shows, when working standing up,,I like the idea of working relaxed and have a complete picture of what to do,,too many jobs I did by plowing thru it,,now I research each job so that I have the tools available to get the job done without undue waiting time,,,

edit pom

[pommeree]

Just to be clear.
I built and used a tool just as described in your article.
but instead of wrenching by hand to turn the tool, I used an impact gun.
In other words, no axial/radial/other forces on the trailing arm itself.

I did the procedure on my back with the help of a friend (Dad!)
I also know it did not take several hours per side.

[bflan2001]

Awesome, thanks guys!

[pommeree]

Addendum:
Again, I think the ability to use the impact gun to turn the bush-puller tool is what made the job doable.
Working on your back *and* having to try and turn, hammer or force anything by hand immediately becomes a monumental PITA.
I could not imagine -for the life of me- having to use a dead-blow to remove/install the trailing arm bushings in such a confined space.
In my case this simply would not have worked.

[epmedia]

Where's Jester

He has recommended throwing some urethane bushings in the freezer before installing them, so you don't have to smack them too hard.

[jaredmac11]

So I went through this project this weekend. It's a snap once you get it figured out.

As was shared up top, I used the threaded rod with washers and pipe to get this done. I didn't go to a big box store but instead my local hardware store.

I'd offer a few tweaks to the guide from the 5 series guys.

First 1.5" pipe is too large for our trailing arms. 1.25" is better. It's very snug for the bushing coming out, but only on the end that mushrooms out. Otherwise it's perfect.

I picked up 7/16" threaded rod so my 1/2" sockets would pass through.

I used 17 and 16mm sockets to press the bushing out.

As was stated in the guide, get more than enough washers.

Finally, if the going gets tough, stop going. I mishapped a few washers because user error. Just take the time to make sure everything is right (good washer placement, everything is straight, etc).

Bushings press right out and press right in.

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