Found a Dakar Time Capsule Today

[crqflier]

Thanks guys for all the comments and advice. I'm going to try the WD40 this weekend and look into the leather treatment. I usually just use Zymol cleaner then conditioner. I don't recall E36 steering wheels ever being the same smooth/dull finish like on my e90 sport wheel. Wish it could be that way.

Regarding the bolster, let's not make this into a hanging chad debate. However, I went out to carefully inspect both seats. The foam on the outside and inside bolsters of both seats are firm throughout - not "completely caved in", not even close. There is no degradation. I'm highly familiar with foam degrading in M3 bolsters - I had one for 8+ years. I get it. With that said, there is a slight ridge of foam part of the length of the bolster sticking out maybe a quarter inch. Who knows, maybe this is the beginning of some foam migration. Debating putting the sheep back on. Not a fan, but they improve seat grip a ton and keep the leather amazing.

[nate325]

Thanks guys for all the comments and advice. I'm going to try the WD40 this weekend and look into the leather treatment. I usually just use Zymol cleaner then conditioner. I don't recall E36 steering wheels ever being the same smooth/dull finish like on my e90 sport wheel. Wish it could be that way.

Regarding the bolster, let's not make this into a hanging chad debate. However, I went out to carefully inspect both seats. The foam on the outside and inside bolsters of both seats are firm throughout - not "completely caved in", not even close. There is no degradation. I'm highly familiar with foam degrading in M3 bolsters - I had one for 8+ years. I get it. With that said, there is a slight ridge of foam part of the length of the bolster sticking out maybe a quarter inch. Who knows, maybe this is the beginning of some foam migration. Debating putting the sheep back on. Not a fan, but they improve seat grip a ton and keep the leather amazing.

This isn't to argue with you at all. I just want to say that that is foam failure. Meaning that the original shape is lost... I call it cankles and refer to it as caved in (you've lost foam support on the outside edge). You do want to get this fixed otherwise you will see the leather get very bad on that ridge on top of it not looking how it should. Unfortunately the foam is NLA so you will have to get lucky in searches to find it. This isn't a very expensive fix. You will also gain a TON of seat grip as right now your bolster isn't doing what it's supposed to be doing; holding you in the seat.

Brand new E36 M3 wheels are very pebbly and matte, only the shift knob is a smooth grain (and matte). Here is my friends that he installed in his E31;





Zymol should be fine but I'd look into a few UK solutions like LTT Solutions. Your leather is pigmented (painted) black, then clear coated with a matte top coat. The goal is to actually care for these coatings as the leather underneath is sealed off. Water based products are they way to go, no traditional "conditioners". http://www.lttsolutions.co.uk/ (that's just one product with good reviews, there are others).

[alanilil]

What an increadible find. I'm very jelous!

Took a really long look at the radiator. It looks basically new. Pump, belts, upper/lower hoses, and coolant were all changed 2800 miles ago which was 4.5 years. Oddly, not the thermo or housing - though PO had them both and gave them to me with the car. So it seems a flush is in order, but maybe not much else with the cooling. Yes, I know the weak spot and the downside risk. Flush only or swap out radiator and thermo? Think I'm good with the pump, belts, and hoses. Comments?

I strongly reccomend replacing the radiator and the thermostat housing if they are original. I had a radiator neck fail on my 97M3 when it was 12 years old with 53k miles.

The cooing system plastic gets brittle from thousands of heat cycles over the years regardless of mileage.

Radiator neck failure is best case an inconvenience and worst case a blown headgasket or warped/cracked head so replacing them preventatively is cheap insurance.

[crqflier]

Thanks. You're probably right about the rad. Even though it looks fine, cheap insurance to replace proactively. Wondering if anyone on bf.c is running a 17 year old rad?

[M I C H A E L]

WOW what a find, thats a mint m3

[BMWBergy]

Great find, and even if the niggling complaints - FROM PEOPLE WHO DON'T OWN YOUR CAR - are correct, you still have an extremely well-cared-for example of a nearly 20-yr-old car.

Congrats.

[B3MW]

Nice find - Looks Great.......

[TX S3]

Very nice find. Seems like these Dakars are much more lower miles and being kept more than any color.

Lucky guy.

[andylv]

Awesome find you are a lucky guy.

[StudiousPete]

Very cool! I had a similar experience last summer and found a 97 dakar with 23K original miles....also a true time capsule.

Im glad to see theres still a few out there. Best of luck with it and an awesome looking car.

[ApexSpeed]

I wonder why when guys post photos and stories of spectacular cars found with little mileage and less use (or even high mileage and lots of use), M3 forum guys inevitably say two things...

1) I love your car.

2) Here's a list of everything I can see wrong with it.



Kinda gets old after a while.




By the way crqflier, your floor mats are installed crooked, your right wiper arm is off two splines, and that wheel weight residue on the lips of the wheel has GOT to go. Wicked find. We're all jealous.

[tyl]

Love the car. I recently picked up a 97 M3/4/5 last with 43 K miles, hellrot. This is my third E36 M3/4/5 and I doubt I will sell it. These cars have such sole. I too understand we're your coming from. I also have an E90 M3/4/6 with an ESS VT1 supercharger.

After changing all the fluids I changed out all the rear bushings with OEM bushings, welded in RTAB reinforcements and installed RTAB shims. I thought that this may be a bit premature because the bushings really looked pretty good. All I can say after the first test drive is you need to do this. Age of the rubber is as much a factor as the ware and tear.

IMHO the E36 M3 is arguably the best drivers car BMW has built. I also have a low milage E30 M3 and while this too is an amazing drivers car I must say I have a bigger grin in the E36.

[Justattack18]

Love the car. I recently picked up a 97 M3/4/5 last with 43 K miles, hellrot. This is my third E36 M3/4/5 and I doubt I will sell it. These cars have such sole. I too understand we're your coming from. I also have an E90 M3/4/6 with an ESS VT1 supercharger.

After changing all the fluids I changed out all the rear bushings with OEM bushings, welded in RTAB reinforcements and installed RTAB shims. I thought that this may be a bit premature because the bushings really looked pretty good. All I can say after the first test drive is you need to do this. Age of the rubber is as much a factor as the ware and tear.

IMHO the E36 M3 is arguably the best drivers car BMW has built. I also have a low milage E30 M3 and while this too is an amazing drivers car I must say I have a bigger grin in the E36.

Where are the pictures, i don't see them, this must be a mistake.

[crqflier]

Thanks for all the comments. I'm really pleased as heck with the car. One thing I must say though, is the car could definitely use a 6th speed - other than reverse... When I first started driving the 335 it took a long time to use 6th. Now not having it I'm surprised by the rpm on the freeway at 80. Other than that, no concerns. Changed the trans and diff fluids - perfect shape (visually super clean) and no metal grounds anywhere.

Next up is the radiator and thermo/housing swap. And the brake fluid. Sitting in boxes in the garage - too busy with work to do the work yet. Haven't even had a chance to pull the wheels and look at the pads (and scrub the inside of the wheels). Ditto on soaking off the wheel weight crap. A bit disappointing as I'm headed up the coast several hundred miles tomorrow and wanted to take the M. Dont want to risk it yet without having done at least the radiator.

I think the rtab bushings are a good idea, not sure about the reinforcements though - thought that was primarily for ripped or fatigued metal. Dont know enough. Guess I should read up. Thinking koni swap and x brace will happen before the bushings. But before any of this I'm gonna go check that right wiper and the floor mats.

[tyl]

The RTAB reinforcements are not only peace of mind. Think of it as poractive maintenance rather then damage repair. If you are going to drive the car spiritedly and especially if you are going to track the car you want this done. The metal is pretty thin around the bolt mounts. Calvin (99MPower) helped me on this project and has done a lot of these. If I recall correctly his comment to me was the tear outs were unpredictable with any particular car.

The first two E36 M's I had I left prett much stock. A rouge SSk and a cold air intake that's it. My goal on this car is to build the most fun to drive street car that I can take to the track if I want. A trackable street car not a streetable track car if you will. I am well an the way.

You will be glad you did the X brace. This does more to adding rigidity then a strut brace ever would. I noticed that the car actually had a little less chassis noise too.

[drivingmachine1]

Congrats!

[crqflier]

Finally got around to swapping out the radiator, expansion tank, cap, and thermo/thermo housing. Previous owner had already done the water pump and upper/lower hoses. Only problem was getting that fan nut off. Luckily got some help from the forum and previous owner - who I ultimately borrowed the fan tool from.

Also got the brakes bled - bav auto pressure bleeder is great - makes it an easy 1 person job. Pads actually look to have at least another 10-15k miles left and rotors have zero build-up or grooves. So that's good to go for a while.

While the wheels were off, got the insides scrubbed, the old wheel weight gunk off, and "flossed" the tight areas of DS1. Also rotated - even though bentley says not to. Tires are perfect, but old. Probably gonna keep them on till the tread is done. But maybe not. Haven't decided yet.

Next up - shocks, struts, RSM and an x-brace. Still thinking about the rtab.

[BimmerDawg]

Sooo freaking jealous. And I'm not sure if anyone else pointed it out, but your tires are in fact Pilot Sport PS2's, not the original Pilots.

[crqflier]

Sooo freaking jealous. And I'm not sure if anyone else pointed it out, but your tires are in fact Pilot Sport PS2's, not the original Pilots.

Thanks BD. Good catch on the PS2. The docs don't spec the "2", but the tire is definitely a PS2. With that said, they have a January 2003 born-on date. Coming up on 10 years old with about 3K miles on them. Look perfect, but still a little sketchy to be riding on 10 year old rubber.

[Ex36]

still a little sketchy to be riding on 10 year old rubber.

I agree and what a bummer! I had some PS2's on my OLOA M3 back in '05 and found them to be incredible. But age definitely takes its toll on tires.

[BimmerDawg]

Thanks BD. Good catch on the PS2. The docs don't spec the "2", but the tire is definitely a PS2. With that said, they have a January 2003 born-on date. Coming up on 10 years old with about 3K miles on them. Look perfect, but still a little sketchy to be riding on 10 year old rubber.

Eh, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just keep an eye on them and you'll be fine. With the weather (or lack thereof) that those tires were no doubt exposed to, you should be fine. Tire technology is light years ahead of where it was 20 years ago, what with silica being a major part of tire construction.

[crqflier]

After putting 1000 miles on the car I decided to swap out the rear diff oil from Mobil 1 75/140 to Redline 75/90. Had been getting a rumble from the back during low speed (parking lot) tight turns. Completely gone with the Redline. So much for being lazy and not making the effort to find the Redline the first time.

Going to take the advice of a local BMW tech and swap out my engine oil again too. Since it hadn't been driven much in the prior 5+ years, the thought is that these first 1000 miles may collect a fair amount of contaminant. Might do a blackstone just to see.

Just placed an order for Konis all around and Rogue RSM. Ordering the X-brace tomorrow as well. And I've also decided to ditch my current tires. Even though they are my favorites, the downside risk of 10+ year old tires just isn't worth saving the $$. Sucks to pitch what look to be perfect tires. So I'll be in for maybe $2500 including the tires, a helmet, and all other items I've gotten and should be good to go for a while.

[crqflier]

Got the 4 Konis and Rogue RSMs installed. I did this same job on my first '95 M about 10 years ago and honestly forgot what a PITA it is compressing the springs and getting the original strut mounting bolts off. 17 years and factory locktite combined with no power tools = not fun. Good news was that the factory RSMs were in near perfect shape as were the shock towers.

And like I said 10 years ago, if you think your original shocks don't need replacing, think again. Zero rebound and no pressure left in the struts and shocks but no signs of leakage or other issues.


Also, found this behind the driver side trunk panel. Clean install, but not entirely sure what it is since I've never done more than swap a head unit.

[CblockM3]

Look like crossovers for a front set of component speakers, I would guess there is also an amp somewhere back there. Love your car!

[Nats95M3]

Holly crap that thing looks like it just came out of the assembly line congrats!!!