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Thread: Found a Dakar Time Capsule Today

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TH3 Shifty View Post
    Did the 95's not have the secondary air pump?
    they did not

  2. #27
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    wow. that's what dreams are made of.....appears to have 18 button OBC as well!

  3. #28
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    Wow...awesome find! If the front and mirrors are truely chip free, I'd have Clear Bra installed yesterday!

    John
    '95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
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    ***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by QCwalter
    wow. that's what dreams are made of.....appears to have 18 button OBC as well!
    18 button OBC with all pixels working. Also has cruise control. Factory alarm with all original keys and remotes. BMW wheel locks. Flashlight. Even has some plastic BMW bag at the spare wheel - looks like a bag you'd use to put a dirty flat tire back in the trunk?

    Quote Originally Posted by JETninja
    Wow...awesome find! If the front and mirrors are truely chip free, I'd have Clear Bra installed yesterday!
    Thanks.
    It really is completely chip free. Not so sure about clear bra. Never used it before.

    First time I saw the car I told the owner I probably wouldn't buy it because it was way cleaner than I was looking for - was really looking for something I wouldn't care about throwing the kids in after a beach day. Not happening.
    Last edited by crqflier; 10-01-2012 at 01:33 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  5. #30
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    MauiM3Mania is offline Observer/Master Skeptic Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by crqflier View Post
    Thanks. I think you're right about the exhaust. Looks like factory but the tips. Still sounds sweet and I'm guessing it shaves at least 2 seconds off the 0-60 time.....
    Too funny.
    04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
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  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by crqflier View Post


    Thanks.
    It really is completely chip free. Not so sure about clear bra. Never used it before.

    First time I saw the car I told the owner I probably wouldn't buy it because it was way cleaner than I was looking for - was really looking for something I wouldn't care about throwing the kids in after a beach day. Not happening.
    Clear Bra is awesome, its a thin clear film from 3M. My Vette got it all over the Nose, Mirrors, Behind each wheel, the Sills and where fingers grab the door handle. Installed in '04 it still looks fantastic and no chips. We use a version of it on the C-17 Airlifter to protect the gear legs and lower panels from sand erosion. It protects the paint and does not hurt it at all. Been around for over 20yrs...

    John
    '95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
    AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!

    ***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by JETninja View Post
    Clear Bra is awesome, its a thin clear film from 3M. My Vette got it all over the Nose, Mirrors, Behind each wheel, the Sills and where fingers grab the door handle. Installed in '04 it still looks fantastic and no chips. We use a version of it on the C-17 Airlifter to protect the gear legs and lower panels from sand erosion. It protects the paint and does not hurt it at all. Been around for over 20yrs...
    +1 for clear bra...have it behind the rear wheels and over the head lights, mirrors are a good idea.

  8. #33
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    Car porn

    Beautiful...
    Officer, this is not the M you are looking for.


  9. #34
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    Was able to get under the hood and under the car this evening to see what I really bought. So far so good. Everything looks clean, straight, and original. Changed the oil and filter - last change was about 500 miles ago and but 18 months. Little longer than I'd prefer, but at least it was full synthetic. Airfilter and box internal were spotless.

    Took a really long look at the radiator. It looks basically new. Pump, belts, upper/lower hoses, and coolant were all changed 2800 miles ago which was 4.5 years. Oddly, not the thermo or housing - though PO had them both and gave them to me with the car. So it seems a flush is in order, but maybe not much else with the cooling. Yes, I know the weak spot and the downside risk. Flush only or swap out radiator and thermo? Think I'm good with the pump, belts, and hoses. Comments?

    Next up diff and trans fluids. Plus some decisions on brakes - rotors and pads. Still plenty of meat, smooth even braking, but they are the originals all the way around. Yikes. If I swap really soon, I'll hold on brake fluid till then, otherwise that'll happen after diff and tran. Thoughts?

  10. #35
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    Very nice find indeed probably cost an arm and leg.

    Clear bra is a nice option. However in some cases it does remove the paint when/if you remove it. I saw first hand the paint come off a DB12 Aston Martin hood with the clear bra. Not cool.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by crqflier View Post
    Plus some decisions on brakes - rotors and pads. Still plenty of meat, smooth even braking, but they are the originals all the way around. Yikes.
    The pads and rotors don't go bad just from sitting. Why rush to change them? The fluid is another story.
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  12. #37
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  13. #38
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    Wow, congrats and good luck with it!
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  14. #39
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  15. #40
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    Great find. Couple things that you should know though. Your driver side bolsters are not supposed to look like that. The foam is completely caved in. In order to protect the leather from an untimely death, you need to replace the foam in that seat. This is typically caused from heavy set people and their billowing back fat.

    The ///M on the cluster is faded which is typical of some type of light exposure (sun). Unfortunately the only fix is to buy a brand new cluster and properly swap, or find a mint ///M (usually only found on new clusters anyway) and crack the cluster open to swap out the insert. The sun exposure is a bummer and one way you can tell that a seller is lying that it was "always garaged".

    Not quite the time capsule you say, but great nonetheless. I'd go the extra mile to also replace the steering wheel with a brand new 4-spoke (they are under $300 new with slipring) with matching shift knob, remove the left over outside wheel weight residue, buy factory floor mats (no clue what those are), plus the things listed above. You'll add a little more class and value to that low mileage car
    Last edited by nate325; 10-02-2012 at 10:26 PM.

  16. #41
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    What an amazing find. Good luck with it! Wish my Vaders looked half that good in my car!
    1999.2 Titanium Silver Metallic ///M3
    Car & Driver's "Best Handling Car At Any Price."

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by nate325
    Great find. Couple things that you should know though. Your driver side bolsters are not supposed to look like that. The foam is completely caved in. In order to protect the leather from an untimely death, you need to replace the foam in that seat. This is typically caused from heavy set people and their billowing back fat.

    The ///M on the cluster is faded which is typical of some type of light exposure (sun). Unfortunately the only fix is to buy a brand new cluster and properly swap, or find a mint ///M (usually only found on new clusters anyway) and crack the cluster open to swap out the insert. The sun exposure is a bummer and one way you can tell that a seller is lying that it was "always garaged".

    Not quite the time capsule you say, but great nonetheless. I'd go the extra mile to also replace the steering wheel with a brand new 4-spoke (they are under $300 new with slipring) with matching shift knob, remove the left over outside wheel weight residue, buy factory floor mats (no clue what those are), plus the things listed above. You'll add a little more class and value to that low mileage car
    Thanks for taking a look. But seriously, you have no clue what you're talking about with these comments. You'd retract all but one comment if you actually saw the car.

    Not that it matters, here are the facts: The //M looks faded in the pic because I couldn't turn the flash off on the camera. It's not at all faded. Like i said, no clue how to take interior pics. About the bolsters - and the rest of all the seats - they are perfect and full. How you're able to tell a third dimension from a crappy two dimensional pic is beyond me. The floor mats as I said in a previous post are aftermarket floor mats covering perfect OEM mats. The wheel is original and in excellent shape. Why I'd buy a new one is beyond me. The car was constantly garaged and the PO of 14+ years is about 150 lbs.

    Of your entire list of things wrong, the one you're right about is the residue from the original wheel weights. I talked with the PO about that. The weights were from the factory. He didn't want to damage the wheels either by scratching or using a strong solvent. If anyone knows of a safe method to get this stuff off after 17 years let me know.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by nate325 View Post
    Great find. Couple things that you should know though. Your driver side bolsters are not supposed to look like that. The foam is completely caved in. In order to protect the leather from an untimely death, you need to replace the foam in that seat. This is typically caused from heavy set people and their billowing back fat.

    The ///M on the cluster is faded which is typical of some type of light exposure (sun). Unfortunately the only fix is to buy a brand new cluster and properly swap, or find a mint ///M (usually only found on new clusters anyway) and crack the cluster open to swap out the insert. The sun exposure is a bummer and one way you can tell that a seller is lying that it was "always garaged".

    Not quite the time capsule you say, but great nonetheless. I'd go the extra mile to also replace the steering wheel with a brand new 4-spoke (they are under $300 new with slipring) with matching shift knob, remove the left over outside wheel weight residue, buy factory floor mats (no clue what those are), plus the things listed above. You'll add a little more class and value to that low mileage car
    Not sure if serious or trolling.. People like you ruin forums.
    1999.2 Titanium Silver Metallic ///M3
    Car & Driver's "Best Handling Car At Any Price."

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by crqflier View Post
    Thanks for taking a look. But seriously, you have no clue what you're talking about with these comments. You'd retract all but one comment if you actually saw the car.
    I assure you, I know these cars very well and everything I wrote was intended to be kind suggestions for a car that has more potential than most. I'm more than happy to take you up on your offer though. Are you going to get mad when I point out good and bad?

    I do see the stock 3-series mats in the pictures now, missed that at first, oops. Obviously the fat comment was a joke. The bolster foam has still failed on your driver side though which is undeniably clear just looking at your passenger bolster as a comparison.

    I asked Kevlar to reopen my account so I don't have to post on Nate's (cousin). Maybe there would be less confusion.
    Last edited by nate325; 10-03-2012 at 01:37 AM.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by nate325 View Post
    Great find. Couple things that you should know though. Your driver side bolsters are not supposed to look like that. The foam is completely caved in. In order to protect the leather from an untimely death, you need to replace the foam in that seat. This is typically caused from heavy set people and their billowing back fat.

    The ///M on the cluster is faded which is typical of some type of light exposure (sun). Unfortunately the only fix is to buy a brand new cluster and properly swap, or find a mint ///M (usually only found on new clusters anyway) and crack the cluster open to swap out the insert. The sun exposure is a bummer and one way you can tell that a seller is lying that it was "always garaged".

    Not quite the time capsule you say, but great nonetheless. I'd go the extra mile to also replace the steering wheel with a brand new 4-spoke (they are under $300 new with slipring) with matching shift knob, remove the left over outside wheel weight residue, buy factory floor mats (no clue what those are), plus the things listed above. You'll add a little more class and value to that low mileage car





    Last edited by FerM3; 10-03-2012 at 02:10 AM.

  21. #46
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    Incredible. Great find!

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  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by crqflier View Post
    Thanks for taking a look. But seriously, you have no clue what you're talking about with these comments. You'd retract all but one comment if you actually saw the car.

    Not that it matters, here are the facts: The //M looks faded in the pic because I couldn't turn the flash off on the camera. It's not at all faded. Like i said, no clue how to take interior pics. About the bolsters - and the rest of all the seats - they are perfect and full. How you're able to tell a third dimension from a crappy two dimensional pic is beyond me. The floor mats as I said in a previous post are aftermarket floor mats covering perfect OEM mats. The wheel is original and in excellent shape. Why I'd buy a new one is beyond me. The car was constantly garaged and the PO of 14+ years is about 150 lbs.

    Of your entire list of things wrong, the one you're right about is the residue from the original wheel weights. I talked with the PO about that. The weights were from the factory. He didn't want to damage the wheels either by scratching or using a strong solvent. If anyone knows of a safe method to get this stuff off after 17 years let me know.
    Actually he does know what he's talking about. I looked at your pictures again and noticed his points.

    Steering wheel is a little too shiny. Try giving it a good leather treatment with Gliptone, that might do the trick.

    I think the flash washed out the cluster ///M in your photo but just in case I took a picture of a brand new cluster I have so you can see the color it is supposed to be..



    Now regarding the seat bolster, even I missed the damage at first glance. Compare this (my 95 M3 @ 24k mi) to yours; your bolster is collapsing.






    Try soaking the wheel weight residue with some WD40. That should loosen it up enough for you to get off with your fingernail without damaging the finish.



    Quote Originally Posted by Sameer N View Post
    Not sure if serious or trolling.. People like you ruin forums.
    People who ruin their cars are who ruin forums. OP himself stated he has a 17 year old car; what the n00bs with thin ego's fail to realize is there are people who have been here longer than 3 months that know these cars inside/out. For one of the sharpest eyes to critique a car and only come up with so few minor flaws that's a true compliment... Once the owner rememdies those things he will have one of the finest examples out there. You want a pristine example? Listen to nate325. I've seen his cars in person.
    Last edited by jvit27; 10-03-2012 at 01:27 PM.
    '99 Estoril Blue + Dove Grey ///M3 coupe
    '04 Jet Black + Cinnamon ///
    M3 coupe


  23. #48
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    Something I've done for over 30yrs for all my Cars and Bikes is keep a rolled up Bath Towel on the hump behind the seats. When I park, I place it across the Dash, covering the entire Dash, HU, Steering wheel. (and usually a Sun Shade as well) The Towel protects the Dash from UV, keep prying eyes from seeing my HU, and it quite handy on rainy days to wipe things off with. Color coordinated too. Red in the M, Yellow in the Vette.

    John
    '95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
    AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!

    ***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209

  24. #49
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  25. #50
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