DIY: E39 Door Lock Actuator Replacement

[jamesdc4]

Hey guys, a quick question. I just viewed the BSW E39 speaker installation video on Youtube and one of the first things that the guy says to do is to lower the window. Is that necessary to replace the door lock actuators? Also, the link for the OP's PDF file no longer works. Does anyone have it saved somewhere? Thanks

The uploaded PDF file downloads fine for me (bottom of OP's OP). If you're referring to the TIS link, it's been shut down fro some time now due to copyright reasons.

[OnTheFence]

You can replace lock actuators with the windows UP.

[Dave Sal]

The uploaded PDF file downloads fine for me (bottom of OP's OP). If you're referring to the TIS link, it's been shut down fro some time now due to copyright reasons.

My bad. I was trying to open the TIS link. Thanks to both for replying. Got it now.

[Pekelicious]

Sorry to bring up a dead thread but I'm in a dead end don't know where to go. I've followed the DIY and replaced the 2 front actuator(OEM ) I haven't assembled it yet cuz they are not responding. Already checked and rechecked all the connection and all seems good but the darn locks just won't give a sign of working

[pleiades]

Sorry to bring up a dead thread but I'm in a dead end don't know where to go. I've followed the DIY and replaced the 2 front actuator(OEM ) I haven't assembled it yet cuz they are not responding. Already checked and rechecked all the connection and all seems good but the darn locks just won't give a sign of working

You either missed a plug connection (the smaller one to the lock mechanism may be hidden from view, the big one to the actuator well, you wouldn't miss that. Also check your fuses. If you are trying to test the actuators before re-sealing the door, I hope you made sure to re-connect the airbag before all that, otherwise you'll have an SRS fault light on once you're done.

[sealbeach740]

Sorry to bring up a dead thread but I'm in a dead end don't know where to go. I've followed the DIY and replaced the 2 front actuator(OEM ) I haven't assembled it yet cuz they are not responding. Already checked and rechecked all the connection and all seems good but the darn locks just won't give a sign of working

Check out the first post in this thread, step 10 in particular. Could be your issue:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...or-Replacement

[Pekelicious]

Everything checked no blown up fuses, tabs lined up and connections all made correctly, can't figure it out wtf is wrong

[Pekelicious]

- - - Updated - - -

The thing is only the 2 front sensors are not working, the back one works flawless(thank god)

[Dave Sal]

I finally tackled this job after months of procrastination. All of the door locks started functioning normally for a few months and then suddenly, my rear passenger door would not lock. I have no idea how many times I went to the store and locked the car, only to have the rear door remain unlocked. I only noticed it by chance, and then checked it every time thereafter. It would fail to lock about half the time. I followed the instructions posted on this thread (thanks Fudman and OnTheFence) and just completed the job about an hour ago. Took me about 3 hours and it was a bit of a pain in the rear. It's all buttoned back up and everything works as it should with one small issue. Even though it works fine, the inside door handle has a bit of play in it that it didn't have before. My guess is that when I moved the yellow cable clip from the square retainer hole, the yellow plastic clip pretty much disintegrated and I was unable to secure it properly like it had been before I disconnected it. I'm not really concerned with this as it still works and the rear seats are rarely used, but it does bug me a bit as my car has been pristine since i bought it new. If anyone has any tips on getting the slack out of the door handle I'd appreciate it.

[OnTheFence]

Why don't you order another yellow plastic clip?
Or somehow ziptie the cable to that little square opening?
Opening the door back up will only take 30 mins. this time.

[RocketSurgeon]

Even though it works fine, the inside door handle has a bit of play in it that it didn't have before. My guess is that when I moved the yellow cable clip from the square retainer hole, the yellow plastic clip pretty much disintegrated and I was unable to secure it properly like it had been before I disconnected it. I'm not really concerned with this as it still works and the rear seats are rarely used, but it does bug me a bit as my car has been pristine since i bought it new. If anyone has any tips on getting the slack out of the door handle I'd appreciate it.

I had this happen to me, I think the issue is that you didn't reconnect the cable for the door handle right. The cable thing has a ball or hook or whatever on the end that you need to drop in place, but that thing also grabs onto the plastic sheath over the cable to keep it tight. I know you have the ball or hook thing connected, your door handle wouldn't work otherwise, but if you look close where it's connected, you'll see that the sheath pushes into the end thing too. It's hard to describe, but you'll see it if you pull the door card.

[Dave Sal]

Why don't you order another yellow plastic clip?
Or somehow ziptie the cable to that little square opening?
Opening the door back up will only take 30 mins. this time.

If I remember correctly, the yellow plastic lip was part of the cable itself, not a separate part. Now that you mention the zip tie, I can't believe I didn't think of that.

- - - Updated - - -

I had this happen to me, I think the issue is that you didn't reconnect the cable for the door handle right. The cable thing has a ball or hook or whatever on the end that you need to drop in place, but that thing also grabs onto the plastic sheath over the cable to keep it tight. I know you have the ball or hook thing connected, your door handle wouldn't work otherwise, but if you look close where it's connected, you'll see that the sheath pushes into the end thing too. It's hard to describe, but you'll see it if you pull the door card.

I wish I would have taken pics during this job. I did not disconnect the cable from the door handle though.

[dk500]

Great DIY Thanks! Still kind of a PITA though in general... haha thanks though for the writeup

[justinca540i]

Many thanks! Mine had just gone out a couple weeks ago.

[BlueMach1]

Help. I am doing the actuator on the front passenger side on a 2001 M5. I have this apart right now. I am testing to assure locking function before reassembly. now NONE of the locks work if I use the central lock button on the console.

They DO work with the remote. This includes the one that I replaced. Seems to function as it is supposed to with the remote (up and down).

I have assured that the tabs in step 10 are aligned. I have checked the fuses. I have the lock in the full closed position to simulate door closed. The large connector is attached (there is no other electrical connector for the actuator on the PS door). I have even connected the airbag, the window switch and even the speaker.

Battery was disconnected for dis-assembly and reconnected for test.

Why is there NO lock function on any doors now from the central lock switch in the console ? HELP.

EDIT / CLOSURE: Since everything worked with the remote, I just went ahead and put it all back together. Everything works. Don't know what the deal was with it apart.....

[uber5er]

Thanks to those who compiled this info. The rear doors on my 2002 Touring started to not lock or unlock on the first press a couple of months ago, this and other info helped me find the cause quickly (actuators) and replace them. The main hassle with this job was getting the door trims off, particularly in a Touring with the sun shades. The rest was quite simple and easy and doors now lock and unlock perfectly.
Cheers
Uber

[scooper]

Checked the 3 fuses of the central door lock switch near the gear shift lever and they seem to be good. If the button does nothing, what might be wrong? The doors lock and unlock via FOB normally, however. Thanks.

[blilrat]

Thank you to everyone that contributed to this thread. Made what would have been a day to figure out how to disassemble the assembly into a two hour job. And big plus, my key fob works perfectly again. I had a replacement battery ready to go not realizing the problem was the actuator. No idea why the two would be linked in any way.

[ejj2000e39]

Hello! Great write up. It has been very useful.

After the initial install my door lock on the driver side is not going up and down.
It does not sound like power is even getting to the actuator. The window control panel on the drivers side door work only for the driver window.
The door lock switch in the center console works for all doors except the drivers side door.

Any thoughts on how I can trouble shoot my drivers side door lock?
It feels like everything was done correctly. (but obviously not)

Thanks again for the great write-up! ejj in Colorado