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Thread: DIY Sticky/Clunky Steering Fix

  1. #226
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Newnan
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1989 325i and 2006 Z4
    Hey, Borzoidad,
    I live in Newnan so we are practically neighbors. I also have a 2006 3.0si and have this steering issue. Did you do this fix and if so, how did it turn out for you?

  2. #227
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Sterling VA
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    2003 BMW Z4
    BMW Dealer diagnosed this problem on my 2003 Z4 as bad column knuckle. Hope they are right, its being installed tomorrow... $800...

  3. #228
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    London
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 318
    Hi all,
    I have a 2004 Z4 and i started with the 'sticky symptoms' this summer. I spoke to a mechanic today that had seen this issue before and he mentioned that under the steering rack there was a torx bolt which i could turn anti-clockwise a millimetre that would sort the problem. He didn't mention about drilling or injecting grease just loosing off, has anyone heard of this approach or should i stick to the suggested above?

    Thanks to those who provided the posts and images, this has helped!

  4. #229
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    London
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 318
    Quick update - i've just read the latest posts and going to try what Johnf2303 suggested first before the drilling option. Thanks guys!

  5. #230
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Telford Tennessee
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2005 Z4
    Great Post! I have the same sticky steering issue. Will be adding the fitting this week..
    2005 Z4 3.0

  6. #231
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Posts
    12
    My Cars
    00-740i,98-540i,00-540i
    So I bought a 2007 BMW Z4, MFG date 11/06 and it has the sticky steering problem, I did the drilling option did not do anything at all, but the adjusting the steering lash did. The car now has a better feel to it, the sticky feeling has disappeared. What the Germans was doing on this thread is correct. I was able to loosen both hex bolts and move the ring toward the drivers seat. At first I thought I was moving the EPS and I thought I had moved it, well it did move, but it was going the opposite way and the steering went beyond sticky hell it was basically stuck when I turn it, so I went under with a small hammer and screwdriver and hit the ring itself toward the drivers seat and bingo automatic different unstuck/unsticky feel. I have to play with a little more until I feel the best feeling, that is my two cents on this whole sticky deal...

  7. #232
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pauma Valley, CA
    Posts
    28
    My Cars
    2009 328i Sportwagon
    Quote Originally Posted by michaelbuk View Post
    Quick update - i've just read the latest posts and going to try what Johnf2303 suggested first before the drilling option. Thanks guys!
    Michael,

    Could you update us on your result?

  8. #233
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    26003
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    2003 z4 2.5
    2003 bmw z4 2.5 I drilled the hole as indicated but could not find a proper grease fitting. I just bought a rubber tipped nozzle for my grease gun and used that to fill the gear housing with wheel bearing grease. I was surprised how much it took until the binding stopped. It has been about two years and no problems.

  9. #234
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    New York, NY USA
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2003 z4
    Hi Gherndon, I'm thinking about doing this to my 2003 z4 but yet to see any clear how pics and unfortunately the video is offline now from the original poster. I don't have grease gun or any of the materials (other than drill and bits). Any chance you can detail the specifics? I'm not sure what is a grease fitting or the nozzle you are referring to.

  10. #235
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Newfield, NJ
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    2006 Z4
    I have a 2006 Z4, with all of the issues related to the sticky steering. Today I installed a zerk fitting and pumped some lithium grease that specifically states it is safe with plastic. I have studied this to death before doing this. I used a zerk with a long threaded shank, 1/4-28 thread. I first drilled a 1/8" hole, followed by a 3/16, then opened up to 7/32 before I tapped it 1/4-28, and installed the fitting. This was not a difficult process, but I was working in a difficult position laying under the dash.

    I wish I had angled the hole more toward the worm drive housing (more towards the steering wheel). If you look at the drawing ( on pg 11 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/inv/201...020-42020P.pdf ) We have been drilling where the purple housing meets the silver worm gear housing.. The problem is the grease or lubricant needs to make itself rearword to lubricate the worm drive gear, for I believe the problem is the tolerance, or lack there of between the worm gear and the worm drive shaft. I am going to buy a aerosol while lithium grease that is safe for plastics ( http://api.crcindustries.com/auto-se.../get-pds/03080 ) . I plan to remove the zerk and hopefully i can get the straw to point toward the worm drive gear and spray the lithium grease while my wife turns the wheel.

    My wife and I agree what I did today was an improvement. The wheel returns to a neutral position when exiting a corner much better than it has been. It has also improved the issue of feeling like it is difficult to move it off center to make adjustment within the lane. That problem, while also improved some, still remains. It was smoking hot today (95*) and the car definitely was much better to drive. I realize the situation may continue to improve.

    I may also loosen the motor and adjust the tension ring as mentioned later in this thread.
    Last edited by danielcombs66; 08-11-2018 at 10:31 PM.

  11. #236
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Newfield, NJ
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    2006 Z4
    OK, First and most importantly, I want to sincerely thank those who pioneered this collection of ideas put together in this thread.

    I realize I am alone, nobody is following this thread, but I know others will end up here after buying a problem Z4 in the off-summer months, only to find the car drives horribly, and is a potential safety issue.

    I don't really have anything new to add, except a couple tips that could be helpful.

    I bought my car in April and it rode great. When the summer months arrived, the steering became heavy, notchy, and the steering wheel would not return to a neutral position after exiting a corner. Also, when driving straight, any small adjustment needed to keep the car centered in the lane, required an uncomfortable amount of effort to get the wheel to move the first 1/2" off center. This is the best way I can describe the symptoms of the problem with my car. It did not have to be very hot outside for this to occur, once the summer months arrived, the issues were consistent.

    I knew about the potential for this problem before I bought the car, but had read it affected 2003-2005, and was corrected in 2006. After further research, once I discovered my car had a problem, I found the issue was not corrected until 7/2006. I quick peek at the plate on the drivers door jam revealed my car was manufactured 4/2006.

    So, I studied this long thread, and decided to start by adding the grease fitting as I described in my first post, above. This did make some improvement, but I wasn't completely happy how the car was driving, so I went further.

    Yesterday, I removed the grease fitting, tried to direct the straw that came with the can of white lithium grease (CRC Green Can = safe for plastics) toward the worm gear housing. As someone slowly turned the wheel, I tried to spray the grease, hoping it would better lubricate the worm gear, which in turn would lube the worm gear shaft connected to the motor on top. This didn't seem to work too well, much, probably most of the grease shot backward through the hole, making a mess. (I had covered the floor, pedals, etc with paper towels). I reinstalled the grease fitting, and pumped a lot more white lithium grease from my grease gun, while turning the wheel ( I had both front tires slightly off the ground). I took the car for a ride, seemed to be some more improvement, the car was behaving perfectly in and out of corners, the only thing I wasn't happy with at this point was the last symptom described above, the excessive effort to move the steering wheel the half inch or so needed to make slight adjustments to keep the car tracking in the center of the lane.

    Here is where the real fun starts. Adjusting the tension ring on the EPS motor.

    I am not going to go into great detail about this, because it is very well illustrated by Kameula on page 9 of this thread in posts #202, and #204.

    He states: "I tried the grease fix right away, it helped, but the ultimate cure was adjusting the lash on the worm/spur drive as per the German web site. "

    Agreed, I did this today, and now my car is back to where it is truly fun to drive again.

    Also: "The German and British guys think that the issue is a combination of lube drying up and too-tight clearance on the worm/spur due to a number of factors, including set too tight at the factory and the slow expansion of the spur as it absorbs moisture (nylon-like plastics grow by a percent or two over their first year.) Since the factory re-design was a change in tolerances and lubes, this seems reasonable. Some of the posters on the German site have several years experience with this fix, and no subsequent problems, so it appears to be a good approach."

    Agreed, after reading the NHTSA report I posted the link to in the post above, the modifications BMW put in there letter, this seems to be exactly the issue.

    What is involved is removing the airbag, along with the panel under the dash. This is not difficult, and there are very specific instructions, with photos in a link provided on post #204.

    There is another link to a German website that discusses this entire process, but the European cars do not have an airbag to deal with, and obviously, the page is in German. If you are using Google Chrome, you can right click anywhere on the page and select translate, works pretty well.

    The rest of the job is all about getting the two 6mm hex bolts loose that mount the motor to the worm drive.. This is also detailed pretty well in the posts on page 9. This is not a fun process. I was able to get the bolt closest to the front of the car loose fairly easily using an (approx) 6" 6mm hex socket with a ball end, attached to a very thin combo 3/8" drive and 1/4" drive ratchet available at Harbor Freight. This is a must have tool, I have one in my tool box, and one in the kit I carry on my motorcycle. When I say fairly easily, it took 5-10 mins.. The second bolt is a real party. This one is easier to see, but there is less room, not to say there were wide open spaces to access the first one. Kameula detailed well what worked for him. I was about to give up, I had tried everything I had, and I have A LOT of tools, I decide to try one last thing. I tool a regular long reach (approx 6") "L" shaped allen wrench, and I cut the short end down to approx a 1/2" with a sawzall, then filed it nice . I was able to reach up from the front and get this into the hex bolt head. I also reached up with a thin flat head and pressed against it to make sure it was seated. Fortunately, I was able to get it seated in a position that left me about an inch worth of clearance to break it loose. I used a small piece of pipe over the long part of the allen wrench and gave it a quick hard snap. The second bolt took about an hour to break loose. I wish I had tried cutting the allen key earlier. I had thought of it, but thought it was a low percentage play, so I moved on to other ideas.

    Once bot bolts were loose, moving the ring was not difficult at all. I went at it with a screwdriver and small hammer, vertically, on the rear facing part of the ring (closest to the steering wheel). I first marked the motor and the ring with a line using a sharpie. I lightly tapped the ring about a mm at a time, I stopped at approx a centimeter.

    Tightening the bolts, re-installing the air bag, panel and connecting the battery took about 15 minutes.

    I was extremely pleasantly surprised when I took her for a ride today. My car is truly fun to drive again. Including time spent researching, as well as wrenching on the car I probably have 8 hours invested. The 3 hours or so I invested today were not easy, but the rewards made it all worth while.

    If you have made it this far in this thread you are obviously seriously interested in fixing your car. I spent the time to write all of this to let you know the ideas posted here do work, and are worth the effort. Greasing the worm drive makes a significant improvement, and does not require a huge effort. Adjusting the motor tension ring fixed it completely, but requires significantly more effort and ability ( and perseverance ! )

    Good Luck !!

    danielccombs@gmail.com
    Last edited by danielcombs66; 08-11-2018 at 10:29 PM. Reason: typo

  12. #237
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    South East Texas
    Posts
    821
    My Cars
    318IC, X5, 996,Ridgeline
    Thanks to all who have been working on this problem. I noticed my steering today having issues too.

  13. #238
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Newburgh, IN
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    530i
    After dealing with the sticking issue getting worse over the last two summers, I too dove in with the grease fitting repair. Took a total of 30 min after I got the car pulled in to the shop. I am truly amazed at the difference it made whipping it around the parking lot and on our test track. Today is supposed to reach 90 deg so hopefully the drive home from the office will be much more enjoyable. If not "operation backlash" will commence this weekend. Driving the interstate at 80 mph while passing a semi-trailer on a hot day is a little more then a "nuisance" in these cars. I think we should make someone from the NTSB pass a truck and see if they still feel that it is not a safety hazard.

    THANK YOU TO ALL THAT HAVE BRAVELY GONE BEFORE AND PERFECTED THIS UPGRADE TO THE STEERING SYSTEM!!

  14. #239
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Newfield, NJ
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    2006 Z4
    Good luck !!

    I detailed my experience in two posts above, but I took her back apart this weekend.

    The first time I adjusted the EPS motor tension ring, I moved it approx a centimeter, and it made a huge difference. I took the car on a 950 mile trip last weekend, and it drove very well, almost perfect. Of course, almost perfect isn't perfect. So, disconnected the battery, pulled the panel, and airbag. Loosened the 2 motor bolts, and tapped on the tension ring some more. One tap I gave it moved it to the end of the adjustment. This moved in approx another centimeter, for approx 2cm of adjustment. I figured why not, and put it back together. This was a much faster job this time around, I'd say the whole job took between 30 - 40 minutes. I took the car for a quick drive, and now I can honestly say the steering is no different than my F150. I can literally steer with 2 fingers now. My wife drove it today in 90* heat, and she said it drives like any other car.

    My advice is, adjust the motor tension ring, don't fool around like I did, just adjust it as far as it will go. I posted my email in my post above. If you want any advice, or details about the tools needed, let me know.

  15. #240
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    St. Louis, Mo
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2004 BMW Z4
    I own a 2004 Z4 that has the sticking steering problem. The problem was so bad that I would not drive the car if the temperature outside was above 80 degrees F. When I did drive the car, I would try and park in the shade and open the hood just enough to let the engine compartment cool. That seems to help. I endured the problem ever since I bought the car about 5 years ago.
    I read this thread and decided to try and fix the problem. At the beginning of summer 2018 I began the process. I really did not want to drill on my Z4 steering column but the problem was really bad and it seemed to be getting worse. I drilled the initial hole 0.125 inch diameter at the seam as described in the original post. Make sure you are as centered as possible and drill deep enough to reach the hardened steering post. Then I widened the first hole (counterbored) to a depth of about 0.15 inch to accept a grease fitting. I used a 1/4 inch tapered straight style grease fitting I bought from McMaster Carr (1103K21). It seems like the ones at the auto parts store were not tapered. I ended up counterboring the first hole to a diameter of .2175 inch. You need to be able to get the tapered threads started. The fitting does not need to be sealed. It just needs to be able to get the grease into the steering column. After the fitting was installed I attached the grease gun and kept adding grease until it came out the side of the fitting. I used standard axle grease (what ever was in the grease gun). I then took the car out for a drive and noticed an immediate improvement. Although much improved, the problem was still noticeable. After about a week, I applied more grease and the problem got better. After a third week I applied more grease and the problem was gone. The summer days were all in the mid 90 F. I now drive the car at any outdoor temperature and have no issues with the steering.
    Like everyone else who has done this procedure - THANK YOU TO EVERYONE THAT HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO SOLVING THIS DANGEROUS PROBLEM!

  16. #241
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Newfield, NJ
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    2006 Z4

  17. #242
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Vancouver BC
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2007 335i
    Hi,
    Does anyone know or tried this fix works or not on 2007 E90 335i?
    if same idea works so where to drill the hole?
    Any other thread?
    Thanks in advance for any input.
    Last edited by Cat335; 07-29-2019 at 05:47 AM.

  18. #243
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Newfield, NJ
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    2006 Z4
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat335 View Post
    Hi,
    Does anyone know or tried this fix works or not on 2007 E90 335i?
    if same idea works so where to drill the hole?
    Any other thread?
    Thanks in advance for any input.
    I am no expert, but I do not believe your steering issue is the same, if you've look through this thread, you will see it only affects a specific range of Z4s.

    From the research I did for my car, it seems the issues with the other BMWs suffering similar symptoms was the lower steering shaft. More specifically, the knuckle, or joint, within that lower steering shaft. The cost was around $800 for the lower steering shaft replacement, and needed to be done at the dealer, or at least the steering angle sensor needed to be set at the dealer after the shaft is replaced.

    Hope this helps.

  19. #244
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2012 X3 M Sport
    Has anyone attempted the grease fix on an F25 X3? I'm experiencing this same stickiness as described on the Z4 and was curious if the same fix would apply even though the EPS parts are likely quite different.

  20. #245
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Czech Republic
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    BMW e36 328i
    Thanks a lot , at first i try move with colum closer to driver seat- it was better but not completly gone.After week it was very worm and the nigtmare was back again, so i drill the hole put inside every greasy i find on my workshop to the last drop and the sticky issue is gone ! Tommorow will try it for long trip.

  21. #246
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Bristol, TN
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    1993 Z4 2.5i
    How about making this thread a sticky? No pun intended. TIA

  22. #247
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Louisville
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2006 BMW Z4 3.0Si
    Quote Originally Posted by Bmwha View Post
    PM sent
    can you email me my husband isn't as tech savvy as I am and he won't read all the forum. I have a ,2006 z4 3.0si and my steering has gotten some better. I get this yank when my steering wheel is turned to the right it's like a lock almost. My email is
    patspoiled00@gmail.com thanks in advance

  23. #248
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Delphi
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    2004 BMW Z4 3.0I

    Fearful

    I have finally goaded myself to do the grease fitting fix to my '04 3.0 roadster. I'm really scared that I'll mess up. It appears that the zerk is actually position in the joint between end cap and the housing. Why not lower down on the smaller area on the end cap?

  24. #249
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Delphi
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    2004 BMW Z4 3.0I
    Quote Originally Posted by Oldmcst View Post
    I have finally goaded myself to do the grease fitting fix to my '04 3.0 roadster. I'm really scared that I'll mess up. It appears that the zerk is actually position in the joint between end cap and the housing. Why not lower down on the smaller area on the end cap?

    I'm answering my own question by stating that I should have read this terrific thread more carefully. AND, I have found a local mechanic that will do the work for me. I'm 85 and just can't stand to look up while working on a car. As oft repeated, THANKS TO ALL ON THIS FORUM!!!!!

  25. #250
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    N. FL
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    2003 Z4
    I am about to embark on these fix ideas. Just read through the whole thread and unless I missed it I didn't see a link to the optimization of electro-steering procedure. It has been spelled out pretty well by all of you that did it but the official BMW version tells you to remove the column. Of course that is absurd when you can do it in the car but the photos they present with the column removed may help as a visual.

    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...olumn/FA4qjk9W

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