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Thread: Draining Battery 2006 Z4 m roadster

  1. #1
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    Draining Battery 2006 Z4 m roadster

    My battery is dead in the norning. The battery seams good. I disconnected the battery left it off overnight hook it up the next morning, the car started right up. Something is draining the battery.
    Any ideas where to start.
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    One common offender is a broken tab that switch off the light for the center console/box that's behind the driver/passenger. Take a look and see if that light is always lit even with the cover closed.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, i will take a look at it.

    you were right the light stayed on. I disconnected the light. I will see what happans tomorrow morning. If the car starts that was it. Thanks!!!!!!!
    Last edited by crosby68; 09-22-2012 at 04:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  4. #4
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    I was concerned about the light in the console staying on but after watching it more closely, I discovered it was going off automatically after 20 or 30 minutes. I haven't confirmed it, but I've also been told that the trunk light will do the same thing if the trunk lid is left open long enough.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by chronos404 View Post
    I was concerned about the light in the console staying on but after watching it more closely, I discovered it was going off automatically after 20 or 30 minutes. I haven't confirmed it, but I've also been told that the trunk light will do the same thing if the trunk lid is left open long enough.

    The trunk light will indeed turn off after a period of time if the trunk is left open. I know this from when I was installing the amp in my trunk.

    What console light are you guys talking about? My e85 does not have any lights in any of the consoles. Is it an option?
    Chris

  6. #6
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    I broke the tab that hold that stupid little switch when I had my interior out for coversion to DiNoc carbon fiber. Couldn't rig up an easy fix for the compartment door switch, so I ended up stuffing the SOS/emergency switches in the tunnel (don't think they even do anything without a subscription) and installed an automotive switch in their place to positively control the compartment light... Which I also changed to all LED lights. Not too worried about accidental battery drain anymore! (BTW mine is a M coupe).
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Z4 View Post
    What console light are you guys talking about? My e85 does not have any lights in any of the consoles. Is it an option?
    This...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
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    To get a better idea where it is coming from do this.

    disconnect negative cable
    put a 12v test light between cable and battery post, if it is a 12v drain then the light will light up (it can be very dim so the darker the better).
    start pulling fuses, if you pull a fuse and the light goes out then you have an idea what is causing your drain by way of the which fuse it is. Check fuse number against fuse diagram and that should help you pin point your drain
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkl View Post
    This...
    Hmm...I don't have that....
    Chris

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Z4 View Post
    Hmm...I don't have that....
    Better yet...one less thing to worry about breaking and draining the battery.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkl View Post
    Better yet...one less thing to worry about breaking and draining the battery.
    Probably true...
    Chris

  12. #12
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    My 2006 Z4 M Roadster battery is still draining with in a 24 hour period. I disconnect my console compartment light thanks to the suggestion of another member. I tought i had it but it is still there. I hooked up a test light between the neg. post and the neg. cable to see if the was a draw. the light lit up like Yankee stadium. I can not see any lights that are on. I am going to start to pull fuses to track it down. Does anyone have an idea were to start? What would draw that much to light the bulb that bright?

  13. #13
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    Key off
    test light hooked up
    pull one fuse at a time
    if light does not go out then put fuse back in and pull next one
    I would just start at fuse 1
    I dont know Z's that well so I dont know if you have multiple fuse panels
    If you pull a fuse and the light goes out then see what that fuse is for
    then start checking those things

    post up which fuse make the light go out and what it is for and I willsee if I can help from there

    PM me if that will help

    Two impotant questions I forgot to ask

    Do you have any electrical aftermarket equipment? Stereo, lights, etc
    Did you have any work done recently or did anything happen just before the drain started?
    Last edited by DV8OR; 09-27-2012 at 11:03 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  14. #14
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    I will start the process tomorrow and get back to you.
    I do not have any aftermarket electrical equiptment, but I did mave the motor changed for my convertable top
    my a BMW dealer. Do you think that could be it?
    Thanks for your help!

  15. #15
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    If the drain started relatively soon after that then I would be suspect but couldn't say for sure. It might be worth a call to the dealer to ask if they think the motor swap could be the issue. Most likey they will say no even if it is but worth a shot there are some honest dealers. Also you could call an indie shop and ask them.

    Sure let me know how your testing goes.
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  16. #16
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    A few have posted on the various forums about battery drain problems associated with a bad bluetooth module. IIRC the module for no apparent reason begins to search continuously for a link and does not turn off. The additional current used by the module is sufficient to drain a battery overnight. Try searching the forums and you should be able to find something.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Incompatible View Post
    A few have posted on the various forums about battery drain problems associated with a bad bluetooth module. IIRC the module for no apparent reason begins to search continuously for a link and does not turn off. The additional current used by the module is sufficient to drain a battery overnight. Try searching the forums and you should be able to find something.

    You could check the rectifier circuit in the alternator. If one of the diodes goes bad it will present a direct short to ground for the battery and will slowly discharge it.
    Last edited by tlrominger; 09-28-2012 at 11:11 AM.

  18. #18
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    I hook up my test light between to the neg. battery terminal and the cable, the light was on.I stated pulling fuses, the light never went off. Any ideas, is that possible?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by crosby68 View Post
    I hook up my test light between to the neg. battery terminal and the cable, the light was on.I stated pulling fuses, the light never went off. Any ideas, is that possible?

    Sure it's possible. It means that the drain is NOT on one of the fused circuits. Someone mentioned the alternator as a possible issue. Pull the alternator cable and see if that cuts the light.

    Just to clarify, the light will probably never fully "go off" since many things in the car always need at least some power (radio/gauge cluster/ECU/alarm/etc). However it should be fairly dim. You might need to pull all the fuses one at a time, leaving them out till all fuses are pulled. This is why people advise an amp meter rather than a test light as the amp meter would show you the level of current flow, not just current flow.
    Chris

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by crosby68 View Post
    I hook up my test light between to the neg. battery terminal and the cable, the light was on.I stated pulling fuses, the light never went off. Any ideas, is that possible?

    Is it posible you have another fuse box? Also you can pull relays too.

    Quote Originally Posted by V8Z4 View Post
    Sure it's possible. It means that the drain is NOT on one of the fused circuits. Someone mentioned the alternator as a possible issue. Pull the alternator cable and see if that cuts the light.

    Just to clarify, the light will probably never fully "go off" since many things in the car always need at least some power (radio/gauge cluster/ECU/alarm/etc). However it should be fairly dim. You might need to pull all the fuses one at a time, leaving them out till all fuses are pulled. This is why people advise an amp meter rather than a test light as the amp meter would show you the level of current flow, not just current flow.

    Yes the test light is a quick and dirty test but usually works well. You can see some fluctuation in amperage via the light dimming.
    Last edited by DV8OR; 10-01-2012 at 11:41 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by DV8OR View Post
    Yes the test light is a quick and dirty test but usually works well. You can see some fluctuation in amperage via the light dimming.
    To me it's just easier to leave everything hooked up and use an amp meter at the fuse location.

    - Pull fuse
    - Stick the leads in
    - Measure the amps and write it down
    - Replace the fuse and move on to the next fuse.

    This way I have a log of the actual power draw on each circuit and can then analyze from there.
    Chris

  22. #22
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    The test light is fluctuating. I will also try a digital meter and see if that tells me what I need to know.

    What is an acceptable draw on my Z?

    I also bought a new battery to see if that will help.

    Thanks for all your help, i will find that drawer soon I hope.

  23. #23
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