Luchador
Thanks for the offer. I already have a custom harness made though. Ill post up a thread when I get it complete.Originally Posted by Eloff19
I hear you there...I'd be happy to send you my excel file with the pinouts/wirecolors etc hookups that I used for my setup (OBDI stock harness). A nice little writeup on how to wire into obd I e36, (and if notorious had something lying around) obd II e36 and your e30 may have a very positive effect in removing the "scariness" from hacking up a harness.At least these files would lessen the time-investment on your end
I liked the wiring so much I went through all the wiring in the entire carRemoved every circuit I dont use and added a few that were never there but I wanted!
Member
mmmm stainless....
picked up some piping and bends to start my IC piping
Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 06-16-2013 at 12:24 PM.
Member
Which do you prefer, ignoring ease of welding, stainless or aluminum?
97 BMW M3 (s52b32) - VF-Supercharger kit ( Vortech V2-SQ supercharger, 32 pound injectors, VF tuning ), VDO/LeatherZ Gauge Kit (Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, and Boost), UUC Motorwerks RSC36 Exhaust, Stainless Steel 6-2 Exhaust Headers, Bilstein Sports, Rear Adjustable Camber bushings, Wheel Spacers 10mm in front 25mm in back, Uprated Clutch, UUC Shift Knob, Short Shifter and Clutch Stop, Cross Brace, Mason Engineering front strut bar, Contour Wheels, Euro Ellipsoid (Angel Eyes) HID Headlights, braided steel brake lines, aluminum thermostat housing, mishimoto aluminum radiator and silicone hoses and a partridge in a pear tree
Member
Stainless = so heavy no thx
Member
Stainless... Aluminum looks nice at the beginning but it's a PITA to keep looking nice, plus the tight/small welds of SS piping make it look much more clean. It's also more resistant to rubbing through/against something.
That it's a little bit heavier is no big deal IMO. You will never notice that in any shape or form.
Cantry Member
Aluminum doesn't hold its heat like SS does so in that respect would be good for intercooler piping. I plan on making my cold pipe out of aluminum and wrapping it. You could go ultra pimp with aluminum and get it anodized or even chromed. The chrome may start to peel after a few of years.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Large Member
Most sane people get it powdercoated or ceramic coated.
Anodizing is unlikely because most intercooler piping is of poor quality and will not take anno very well. The welds will also come out a different shade/texture than the tubing itself.
Chrome is heavy and retains heat... Plus its super expensive.
Member
The anodize would only really be obvious if using 4043 filler, 5356 will anodize the same color as the tubing, or should...usually.Most sane people get it powdercoated or ceramic coated.
Anodizing is unlikely because most intercooler piping is of poor quality and will not take anno very well. The welds will also come out a different shade/texture than the tubing itself.
Chrome is heavy and retains heat... Plus its super expensive.
Either way - stainless is mad heavy and you will notice it - when you go and use your silicone couplers and it's pulling on everything because of its weight. I used to run steel pipes but having gone aluminum I never look back.
Member
It's heavier then Alu pipes, but when made correctly and everything nice and solid/tight there will be no "pulling"
I had Alu IC pipes on my S4... I just happen to like SS piping better.
As for heat retention, I've never had/seen any issues with IAT's that show SS being any worse.
Got the IC mounted yesterday...
Some veldings...
Fitted:
Also did the fuel pump install... I had gotten a whole "thing" from Bob but didn't like it at all... it was not something I could put in my tank and feel good about so I took the Walbro 255 out of his basket and threw that away and took apart my stock pump basket and modified it until I was happy.
Soldered on the wiring from the Walbro to the stock pins/connector on the basket:
Using a die grinder I removed all the ridges in the original pump holder and made it larger:
Pump with some rubber coolant hose around it to make it snug in the holder:
Pump in the holder:
Back together again:
Just waiting on some Vibrant silicon couplers to continue with the IC and then it's just minimal things to get this car up and running!
Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 06-16-2013 at 12:32 PM.
Member
What size IC?
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@thenameskam on IG
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Nice work man two suggestions - looks like you could use a little more heat on the intercooler inlet and when you end the weld keep feeding rod and swirl and taper the amps out so you don't leave a crater.
Obv not a big deal just a suggestion!
Member
Core Size, 10.5" X 22" X 3.5" (TR1035)
You're talking about the inlet on the end tank or the bracket that was welded on the end tank? That was actually how the IC came with the inlet/outlets welded on like that... Strange I know since the pic on Treadstone shows it as a 1-pc endtank. The only think I can think of is that they use the 2.5" in/out end tanks, cut them off and weld on the 3" machined ends to sell the 3" in/out versions.
Also that's not me welding.. that is a very good friend of mine... very good fabricator, built some very fast cars. He got out of the business for a while now but still does small shit for good friends and himself
Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 10-24-2012 at 09:44 AM.
Member
Yeah the weld on the bracket looks fine other than I personally strive to not have a crater at the end of the weld - easier said than done, though. I was actually saying the inlet welded on looked a bit cold from the pic but if treadstone provided that then obviously not your doing!Core Size, 10.5" X 22" X 3.5" (TR1035)
You're talking about the inlet on the end tank or the bracket that was welded on the end tank? That was actually how the IC came with the inlet/outlets welded on like that... Strange I know since the pic on Treadstone shows it as a 1-pc endtank. The only think I can think of is that they use the 2.5" in/out end tanks, cut them off and weld on the 3" machined ends to sell the 3" in/out versions.
Also that's not me welding.. that is a very good friend of mine... very good fabricator, built some very fast cars. He got out of the business for a while now but still does small shit for good friends and himself
Member
A rubber radiator hose in the fuel system? I believe the hose is going to loose it's elasticity and become rock hard, but I could be wrong.
WOT
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Member
Rubber is used all the time in fuel systems but even if it does become rock hard it will not go anywhere. Plus by the time something actually even happens to that piece of rubber I will have changed up the fuel system to keep up with a bigger turbo and motor
Anyway, moving forwards made some big steps yesterday so the car is feeling closer and closer to be finished.
Tranny is in! Along with all new UUC mounts, SS clutch line for the slave, new Guibo, rebuilt shifter, etc...
I bent the A/C line straighter so that it had enough length to attach to the compressors new location.
Re-wrapped the ugly mild steel DP lol
And mounted the DP and connected the wastegate! And boy was that wastegate a bitch to connect... that's why you're supposed to put flexes in the WG dump. But ti's all on and looks pretty nice installed if I say so myself
And to finish off the night I connected the ground strap to the motor
Hoping today that we can start of my IC piping now that I will have all the couplers, etc which should pretty much be the end of the fabrication and allow to wrap up the small things like fuel system (lines), oil drain, WBO2 wiring, and FP wiring.
The end is near!
Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 06-16-2013 at 12:34 PM.
Member
So pretty large update I'm going to try to condense here from the past few days...
First of all went and did some shopping...
Then had a really good buddy of mine come by the shop and do the piping for me...
took them out to clean and wrap...
Modified the fuel rail to have two -6 AN fittings on either end, and gave it a fresh coat of paint...
Fitted the fuel lines...
Rail installed for a test fit..
Return
Feed
Regulator
ID1000's installed...
Temporary fuel pressure gauge installed so I can set the base pressure (going to go electric, but don't have the gauge yet)...
Modified the AC line so it will clear the IC
General overview of where I'm at.. piping installed, fueling done, wiring cleaned up.
Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 06-16-2013 at 12:40 PM.
Member
nice! when will she see fire? I'd love to come check it out
Cantry Member
Just in time for snow?
Sent from my GTX3582R
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Cantry Member
Just in time for snow?
Sent from my GTX3582R
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Cantry Member
In time for snow?
Sent from my GTX3582R
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Member
Yesterday!nice! when will she see fire? I'd love to come check it out
Luckily no lol... seems like I will still be able to at least get a few drives in before snow hits (I hope) this weekend is supposed to be 10-15 deg CJust in time for snow?
Anywho moving forward has been a little slow... I've been very busy with other things recently, and had few things that set me back on my car so.
First I finished off the SS hard line that will supply the boost reference to the boost controller/WG:
Then when I was ready to prime the motor with fluids and load a config on the ECU I connected the power wires incorrectly @ the front distribution block... that ended up in a blown fusible link (didn't remember how to properly connect the front distribution block :P ):
I replaced it with a replaceable car audio fuse (also 80A)...
Then when it came time to start the car, everything seemed to be working except for spark. Going over everything I couldn't find anything else wrong.
So I contact VEMS and after some testing and back and forth it seems like the ECU had a short somewhere in the voltage supply line from a regulator to the ignition chip. I asked that they send out one asap as a replacement, sure enough 2 days later I had my replacement ECU.
And then happiness ensued!
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxXq7XFYco4&hd=1[/ame]
Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 06-16-2013 at 12:42 PM.
Cantry Member
I like the stainless boost reference line, I will be doing the same after having two over boost situations do to boost line issues.
PS replace that coolant reservoir before it pops and wrecks all your hard work. As a rule of thumb, if it's not white any more, replace it.
Sent from my GTX3582R
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Member
Looking good!
1995 E36 M3 GT #111
3.0L S50B32 EURO Single Vanos with ITB's and Twin Garret GT2252 Turbo
VEMS Standalone (www.vems.hu) most features enabled.
Brakes, suspention, rollcage, seats, harness, wheels and tires.
Luchador
Great work!
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