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Thread: NOTORIOUS VR's E36 328is turbo build

  1. #526
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    ^^^ Interesting....

    Starting to think that a metal drain plug wasn't the best idea lol.

  2. #527
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    Why are you using 5w40? That is too thin for the ambient temperature per the owners manual. I use 15W40 except when I'm going to be doing a bunch of track days then I use 20W50.

    When breaking in an engine its best to do an oil change fairly early on, like 250 km, to get all the metal contaminants out of the circulating oil. The amount of metal on that drain plug is to be expected as you said and probably half as much next time.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  3. #528
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    I always have run rotella 5w40 in my m3.

  4. #529
    milKt's Avatar
    milKt is offline ßMW///MµrÐêr§þðr†
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    I always have run rotella 5w40 in my m3.
    ^
    Synthetic T6

    for all time

  5. #530
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    1996 332IS
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    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
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  6. #531
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    BMW TSB 110400 states that you should be using 15W40 in the S52 (unless operating in cold temps). I doubt that you have built your engine to tighter clearances that BMW did and I doubt that your engine runs at a lower oil temp than an NA S52 so why would you run a thinner oil than what the engine was designed for?
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  7. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    BMW TSB 110400 states that you should be using 15W40 in the S52 (unless operating in cold temps). I doubt that you have built your engine to tighter clearances that BMW did and I doubt that your engine runs at a lower oil temp than an NA S52 so why would you run a thinner oil than what the engine was designed for?
    What's considered "colder temps ?
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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  8. #533
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    My 99M3 owners manual says 5W30 if synthetic. I have been using 0W40 for a while but I have run 5W40 and 10W40 and 5W50 and 20W50 and 10W60. I might go back to 5W40. At 0 degrees F in the winter sometimes, I don't want a really thick oil.

  9. #534
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    In the TSB it states below 50°F but the temperature range for the 15W40 goes lower than that. I use 15W40 through the winter but it doesn't get cold here and I don't drive my car in the snow.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  10. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    Why are you using 5w40? That is too thin for the ambient temperature per the owners manual. I use 15W40 except when I'm going to be doing a bunch of track days then I use 20W50.
    I find that hard to believe that it's too thin... I use 5W40 on all of my turbocharged and many non turbo cars... It's fantastic oil. That said, without getting too deep into this my pressures and temps are perfect with it.

    I one tried the TWS spec (10W-60), it boosted oil pressure somewhat in the lower RPM, but it was probably just forcing the by-pass valve open in the pump much sooner. I don't see the point in running something that thick for street duties.

    I think the owners manual is a decent guide for when it was written with the oils they had back then (early 90's). Now it's really not much use for what we do with these engines.

    When breaking in an engine its best to do an oil change fairly early on, like 250 km, to get all the metal contaminants out of the circulating oil. The amount of metal on that drain plug is to be expected as you said and probably half as much next time.
    yeah I mean, new head, new valves, head work, etc... plus drilling/tapping for 11 mm head studs... never had the pan off (block was in the car). As I said, at first I was a little surprised but then really it makes some sense. Motor runs great though besides the common issues I've been dealing with lol.
    Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 07-04-2017 at 01:39 PM.

  11. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS VR View Post
    Filled it with my usual full synth 5W-40 Liqui Moly fill... great stuff.

    Here is a pic of my first oil change
    Old set up: 520RWHP & 500RWTQ @ 20PSI 1/4 mile as of 7/26/15 12.5 @ 125MPH - 19PSI
    New set up: Steedspeed Twinscroll, Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 CR, K1 Rods, Blueprinted and Balanced, ARP Main Studs, o-ring block, GTR 12mm head studs, GT35R with 86mm HTA billet compressor wheel (GT3586RHTA) TwinScrol 1.06 exhaust housing, Nick G custom tuning, 6 Speed Transmission, UUC Twin Disc Clutch, UUC EVO III, UUC DSSR 109mm, EVO 6 Speed Driveshaft, HFS-6 W/M injection, Zeitronix data logger, 3" SS full exhaust, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Race coilovers.

  12. #537
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    ^^ Niice! How was the next oil change after that? Or still waiting on it?

  13. #538
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    Still waiting on it, I just did my first oil change yesterday.
    Old set up: 520RWHP & 500RWTQ @ 20PSI 1/4 mile as of 7/26/15 12.5 @ 125MPH - 19PSI
    New set up: Steedspeed Twinscroll, Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 CR, K1 Rods, Blueprinted and Balanced, ARP Main Studs, o-ring block, GTR 12mm head studs, GT35R with 86mm HTA billet compressor wheel (GT3586RHTA) TwinScrol 1.06 exhaust housing, Nick G custom tuning, 6 Speed Transmission, UUC Twin Disc Clutch, UUC EVO III, UUC DSSR 109mm, EVO 6 Speed Driveshaft, HFS-6 W/M injection, Zeitronix data logger, 3" SS full exhaust, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Race coilovers.

  14. #539
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    I always have a little mushroom to clean off my magnetic plug.

  15. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    BMW TSB 110400 states that you should be using 15W40 in the S52 (unless operating in cold temps). I doubt that you have built your engine to tighter clearances that BMW did and I doubt that your engine runs at a lower oil temp than an NA S52 so why would you run a thinner oil than what the engine was designed for?
    Why install titanium shims?

  16. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by milKt View Post
    Why install titanium shims?
    Titanium shims installed between the brake pad and piston reduces conductance of heat through to the brake fluid theoretically...... I still overheated my fluid.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  17. #542
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    Took my car out for it's daily shit kickings... this time I ran a log as I had reworked the VE table a little, but the basics have all remained close to the same since forever.

    This combo is just so happy... even in this hot and humid weather it works great. Also very impressed with the TR1035 IC it just does so well! Starting at 35 deg c, going through 3rd, 4th and 5th in that pull IAT topped at 38 deg C.

    Interestingly my speed sensor input seems like it needs to be reworked, as it taps out around 188 km/h and then starts to drop. In which case my gear calculations are off. And I'm pulling timing based on gear (4th and 5th only really) to keep things sane.

    Ambient temps are about 25-26 deg C and 70% humidity for ref.

    Here a 3,4 and 5th pull...

    Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 07-19-2017 at 11:14 PM.

  18. #543
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    So this past weekend I decided to slightly up the boost on my car and hit the track the next day.... that lead to smiles and disappointments all rolled into one.

    The day before the track I connected my boost controller in an unconventional way (controlling the bottom of the gate only) which doesn't allow a lot of precision but it was easy and I wasn't looking to go up past 17 psi anyway.



    After a few hours of playing around with the boost controller and dialing in the PID loop so that it will hold my target boost I noticed the fuel pressure was dropping causing the AFR's to go lean in the top end at even just 16 psi. Not dangerous lean, but lean and with dropping pressure I knew I had an issue and limited my boost to 2-3 psi above my gate pressure (so 15-16 psi max).

    Too bad because the car was really starting to wake up too!

    But happy with the results as is, I figure I could get a few good runs in the next day at the track either way.

    Annnnd that's where it went south... very first run, good launch (2.1 60'), into 2nd and as soon as the boost came on wheel hop and broke.... At first I thought it was just the axle, but once I got it home and went underneath I saw this:



    It broke the damn diff cover...

    So that's that, I put a new shaft in and parked it for now. I'll get a new diff cover eventually and some new seals for the flanges and rebuild it. But Most likely I'm going to start my hunt for a 210mm and rebuild it for 2.93 ratio, and prepare a subframe, butters axles or similar, etc. Just not worth it to continue down this road as is, that is quite clear.

    Uploaded the video from the run anyway, but it's just sadness...

    Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 09-12-2017 at 01:11 PM.

  19. #544
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    Hey thats racing. Wheel hop will kill anything.


    But next time, pull over!!!! LOL.
    328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
    9.20 at 150 on 22psi

  20. #545
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    probably too embarrassed.

  21. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by dburt86 View Post
    Hey thats racing. Wheel hop will kill anything.


    But next time, pull over!!!! LOL.
    yea, I should have... and I knew that too... didn't register... just concentrated on making to the end of the track as I knew it was just the shaft.

  22. #547
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    Guess it's time for a little update.... My built motor finally shit the bed, hurt two pistons for one reason or another. Wasn't really all that upset since I've had nothing but issues with that lump since the day it was put in that car.

    I haven't torn down the motor yet to see the damage... it's unlikely anything serious... just two slugs at like 60/90 psi. I just hope my ported head is ok really.

    When I took the built motor out, I also took the tranny out since the original ZF from that car was really starting to make some interesting noises. Disconnecting the tranny I found that my UUC twin disc clutch decided to completely shit itself and take out the bell housing and the whole pressure plate, ARP bolts, etc. because some of the dowel pins 'fell out' and rolled around my bell housing. One even ejected itself out the bell housing and probably landed into some ones radiator or something. My jaw dropped when I saw the condition of the trans and clutch...






    I was pretty taken back and frustrated to be honest, this type of failure really shouldn't happen - especially since the later UUC twin discs have a revised dowel that has a shoulder on it to prevent such a failure. Alas I tried everything to get replacement ARP studs and nuts, however that didn't work out and I was in a time crunch so I reached out to UUC - spoke with Arjun and he said he would be able to send me replacement ARP hardware if I wanted or I could send in the clutch to him and he would rebuild it.

    I was impressed with the offer as the clutch was close to 6 years old and I felt better about having a fresh PP, etc without the clamping rivets being beat up and taking out my legs one day. Arjun said the repair should take about 1 week. Sweet! I sent the clutch down to UUC and waited, and waited, and waited... I was going to post a really long story about how I had to chase down Arjun @ UUC for updates, and it took over 4 months to finally get my clutch back. It's just not worth the time though.

    Finally UUC sent me back a clutch. Not their original twin disc though... It looks like I received a white label Clutch Masters 850 twin disc - It was literally just tossed into a big box with some foam... it took a beating from smashing around on it's trip back up to Canada - luckily however nothing that seemed to serious just some aluminum edges were beat up that didn't seem to be something to worry about.




    Anyway, moving on - I picked up a $250 dirty used M52B28, cleaned it up a bit, took the head off put a new aftermarket paper HG on and slammed in my old set of used 10mm ARP headstuds... TQ'd to 75 ft/lb, tack welded the nut on the oil pump and just slammed it together. I had to once again have the AR designs manifold fixed/re-welded since it cracked again in 3 more places.

    I had many intensions of selling the car before this especially once the clutch thing was just dragging on and on, but as I started to put the car back together I wasn't so sure anymore.




    I also decided to actually connect the boost controller to my WG this time - I figured I wanted to see what a stock M52 can do on my setup if it ends up running well unlike my garbage built motor that always had issues. So I ran some alu hardlines with AN fittings between the two Tial MVS gates... I also swapped out the springs from 12.5 psi to 7 psi since you know... stock motor and all.






    Just about buttoned up - I also installed my sweet Chinese/Aliexpress fuel rail as well - after some slight modifications it fits very well - better than the OE fuel rail with the injectors anyway.



    It's been about 2 weeks since I finished putting the car together... running on 7 psi/WG pressure for a few days to make sure all is well. The motor was just humming along.. No more valvetrain/VANOS noise like my old motor, no more hard coolant hoses. It just RAN, and ran well! It was just slow.

    About 1 week later I took the car out to the area where I normally go to do some road tuning and setup the knock control in the VEMS, after that I connected the boost controller to the top of the WG and started to add some duty. Everything seemed to be working well and I stopped about 8-9 psi. Got some fresh gas (pump 94) the next time around and added 1/3 of a can of Boostane professional to give me an effective octane of 99-100 just to be safe.

    Started to turn it up and stopped at just under 1 BAR (so right about where I was with my my built motor) and hopped on the dyno a few days later quick before my first tuning appointment...

    453 whp 426 wtq... not bad!



    I turned it up a little more but also changed the VANOS off point a little too high (from 5600 to 6000) and it didn't like that (that's what the dip was) - but still 1.1 BAR boost (about 16psi) I was making right about what my last setup did so I was happy. Still no knock reported by the ECU and motor is running great!



    Of course a few days go by and the car just keeps ticking, pass after pass, day after day. So why not just turn it up a little more right? Bumped up the boost control to about 1.25 bar so right around 18 psi...

    While I didn't put the car back on the dyno I did grab the draggy on the way out the door this morning...

    First run this morning was me trying to hold the phone and wheel while shifting and the car spinning... so not so great 7.64 60-130 with wheel spinning and hitting the limiter in 3rd before the shift. Not sure why the Draggy video and audio isn't sync'd though... I tried to export it 3 times with the same result.



    Later on the way home I put some more heat into the tires with a longer drive... Finally a decent result!

    60-130 mph - 6.82
    100-200 km/h - 5.83



    Log snippet of above 60-130 run:


    All in all, I am extremely impressed with this $250 M52 - still going strong, making more power and running better than my built motor ever has. No knock, no smoke, no hard coolant hoses, no overheating, nada.

    We'll see how long it lasts!

    Happy 2020!
    Last edited by NOTORIOUS VR; 10-18-2020 at 12:03 PM.

  23. #548
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    Maybe I miss it. Is it a stock compression?

    Happy boosting 2020!

  24. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by M3poseur View Post
    Maybe I miss it. Is it a stock compression?

    Happy boosting 2020!
    Yes sir. Stock compression.

  25. #550
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    That’s awesome. Enjoy your new running car.

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