Okay, so I have a dilemma. I just got in from installing everything brand new in my cooling system. The only thing I don't have installed is the fan & clutch. I'm very very worried that I'm going to put on that new mechanical fan and it's going to do the very same thing on the highway. If I just go to autozone today and get some water wetter, will I be okay driving this car without a mechanical fan until next weekend when I can have an electric fan installed (or at least try my hand at it.) Or am I just being super paranoid?
Also, my tensioner pulley on the water pump belt is really squeaking hard. I can see it rotating out of plumb and this makes me very very nervous as well. Does anyone know how to change out that pulley? I've already got a replacement pulley and hydraulic tensioner ready to go in, I just don't know how to install them.
I need help very soon. The hours are wasting away and I need the car ready to go 120 miles tomorrow morning at 7AM.
I love you guys,
Thank you
As Taz said, pry the cap off to expose the bolt, and replace the tensioner. Once you have that done, start the car and turn on the A/C. If the aux fan starts running (takes upwards of a minute), then you are done. Close hood, no worry.
/.randy
I think the second part of your sentence explains it, but when you say the tensioner pulley on the water pump belt - I'm assuming you mean the pulley (Part #6 in the pic from realoem.com) on the ACC drive belt hydraulic tensioner? If this is the case, you have the right parts to make the fix. The picture shows the cap that Taz and Randy are referring to. Be aware that there are two types of bolts for that application - one is a TORX head, but more than likely you have an Allen head Hex. I think the part you'd get if you walked up to a parts counter is the TORX.
This is less likely, but did you mean the pulley on the water pump itself is an issue (part #5 below)? If so, bearing play is bad, and you'll need to change out the water pump (the pulley just bolts to the water pump).
Last edited by BMWBergy; 09-16-2012 at 03:29 PM.
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I've pried off the cap and it seems there's a star head bolt in there. If I turn it clockwise, it releases the tension & allows me to remove the belt. In order to gain access to the bolts holding on the hydraulic tensioner, it seems I need to remove the alternator & possible power steering.
I think I have the TORX head. It will be #7 in that first diagram, Bergy.
Last edited by m212; 09-16-2012 at 03:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
+1 for removing the fan completely...
Should I go pick up some water wetter right now?Originally Posted by Scarceas
Also, is regular 50/50 coolant okay to use for just this week alone? I can't get to the dealership until next weekend.
Some have simply pulled the fan and done no other mods and report back with no issues.
I did the lower temp aux switch, lower temp thermostat, water wetter, and 70/30 water/antifreeze. I'm almost convinced that the lower temp thermostat is not necessary. How far to go with the fan delete mod is really a matter of your personal comfort level.
Straight distilled water would be your best option if you are concerned about it for just a week, unless freezing is in the forecast for South Carolina this week. Antifreeze is not as efficient at cooling as water.
I'll go get a few gallons of distiller water & water wetter (to be on the safe side)Originally Posted by Scarceas
Did you install an electric fan?
Changing the tensioner isn't that hard. Here's the factory instructions.
Don't worry so much about the fan. for SC, 30% antifreeze and (distilled)water is just fine. If you have good municipal water, you may not even need distilled, but it doesn't cost much to be safe there. Stock thermostat and fan switch is fine. No magic chemicals needed.
Get that tensioner fixed. That is a far greater danger to your trip than the fan.
/.randy
I'll give it a try.
That's for mechanical only, it seems. I need to remove the hydraulic tensioner.
Last edited by m212; 09-17-2012 at 11:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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