Driver side window level never set to 0

[pchotard]

Hi

I am chasing for hig power consumption during IDLE phase (~400mA instead of 40-50mA),
i started to check every module / connection in the car.

I finally setup a computer with EDIABAS - INPA to ease/speed-up my research.

I noticed that the driver side window level is never set to 0 when the window is closed,
whereas all others windows have a level set to 0.

I supposed it avoids the General Module to enter in Sleep Mode because the alarm LED located on the central console (near the gear shifter)
is blinking during 10 second before staying solid. This indicates that either a door / engine hood / trunk lid / window or glove box is not locked properly.

PXL_20230311_184452575.jpg

I tried to modify the setting of the 2 bolts located at the botom of the glass windows

PXL_20230311_182914807.jpg PXL_20230311_184644078.jpg

I added or removed one turn without any success

I also tried to reset the window position as explained here but with no change.
Sometimes the windows level is set to 0, but i don't know it works.
Is it a step motor ?
Is there any sensor indicated that the windows reached the top or botom position ?

i don't see any magnet as explained in a thread i can't found.

Thanks

[mr1173]

There should be a sensor on the door frame, and a magnet glued to the window.

The sensor bolts are under plastic cover:
20170528_112720.jpg 20170528_122337.jpg

Magnet:
20170528_122024.jpg

[revtor]

mr1173: The magnetic sensors are from the DWA anti-theft system - they are not used to measure the window position for opening/closing. The idea is that when the glass breaks, the magnet falls and the DWA triggers the alarm.

pchotard: I'm quite sure the car can enter sleep mode with the windows open so I doubt this has anything to do with the battery drain.

The window position is measured by a rotary encoder inside the window motor. The rotary encoder provides just pulses when the motor runs the window up or down - it does not know the absolute position of the window. The number of pulses between opened and closed position is (hardcoded) set in the GM coding (FH_IMPULSZAHL_ABSENK). I'm not entirely sure if or how the system calibrates itself after for example a power outage since it does not know the absolute position. Try performing the manual initialization procedure:

• Get in the car and close the door(s)
• Switch ignition to position II
• Roll the front windows up by pressing and holding the up buttons to the second 'detent'
• After the windows are closed, keep the up buttons pressed for at least 3 more seconds

[m6bigdog]

mr1173: The magnetic sensors are from the DWA anti-theft system - they are not used to measure the window position for opening/closing. The idea is that when the glass breaks, the magnet falls and the DWA triggers the alarm.

pchotard: I'm quite sure the car can enter sleep mode with the windows open so I doubt this has anything to do with the battery drain.

The window position is measured by a rotary encoder inside the window motor. The rotary encoder provides just pulses when the motor runs the window up or down - it does not know the absolute position of the window. The number of pulses between opened and closed position is (hardcoded) set in the GM coding (FH_IMPULSZAHL_ABSENK). I'm not entirely sure if or how the system calibrates itself after for example a power outage since it does not know the absolute position. Try performing the manual initialization procedure:

• Get in the car and close the door(s)
• Switch ignition to position II
• Roll the front windows up by pressing and holding the up buttons to the second 'detent'
• After the windows are closed, keep the up buttons pressed for at least 3 more seconds

That I am aware,
Window controller uses both motor encoder pulses and motor current.
Nominal motor drive current is stored and a hard stop current to detect/set the window open and close limits; end of travel. Also, used for window jam protection.
Motor encoder for window positioning between the hard stops. I.e., Door Opening Position, Toll Position
Calibration is retained during battery disconnects.

[pchotard]

Thanks a lot for these informations.

Regarding battery drain issue, i will then investigate around the alarm module and try to understand
why the LED is blinking during 10 seconds before staying solid when enabled.

Unfortunately INPA can't connect to the DWA module

[revtor]

pchotard: The 10 seconds blinking is a reminder that a window, door, engine compartment, luggage compartment, or glovebox is not closed. It does not prevent the alarm system from arming, nor should it impact sleep mode. If everything is closed it may indicate a problem but I don't think that is the cause of your battery drain. Unless, maybe, the DWA module itself is faulty. The fact that you cannot diagnose the module from INPA is suspicious.

Can you isolate the power consumption to specific fuses?

[m6bigdog]

FYI:
General Module Sleep info:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...l+Module+Sleep

[pchotard]

pchotard: The 10 seconds blinking is a reminder that a window, door, engine compartment, luggage compartment, or glovebox is not closed. It does not prevent the alarm system from arming, nor should it impact sleep mode. If everything is closed it may indicate a problem but I don't think that is the cause of your battery drain. Unless, maybe, the DWA module itself is faulty. The fact that you cannot diagnose the module from INPA is suspicious.

Can you isolate the power consumption to specific fuses?

I will investigate during next week-end and will keep you in touch.

- - - Updated - - -

FYI:
General Module Sleep info:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...l+Module+Sleep

Thanks for pointing this thread, I have already read it, but need to perform again some measurement.

IIRC, idle current drop below 50 mA when i removed F33, which supplies power to K72 and K73. But i need to confirm.

[pchotard]

Some news about the battery drain.

I have put back everything in place ( see this thread ) and the battery drain disappears ... the sleep current drop to 50mA after 16 minutes as it should. Not sure of the root cause was. I will keep en eye of the power consuption after having use the car a while

[m6bigdog]

Some news about the battery drain.

I have put back everything in place ( see this thread ) and the battery drain disappears ... the sleep current drop to 50mA after 16 minutes as it should. Not sure of the root cause was. I will keep en eye of the power consuption after having use the car a while

Disappeared but not gone!!

FWIW,
General Module voltage regulator filter capacitors can cause sleep insomnia.
Most E31 electronics modules have been powered up for +/- 30 years.

As for the intermittent behavior, not having the modules continuously powered up can cause the faulty capacitors to recover for a while (or at least not draw as much current from the voltage regulator) but be assured the problem and/or intermittent behavior will persist until the capacitors or module is replaced.

The Steering Column (telescoping/tilt) Memory Module in my car had the voltage regulator filter capacitors fail and the controls functioned intermittently/backwards.
I opened up the module, took some troubleshooting voltage readings and it was obvious, I needed to replace the caps.

I anticipate faulty caps in the various E31 electronics modules will be the plague of the E31, until inoculated with new caps.
We can wait until the failures occur or replace the caps as part of a preventive maintenance effort.
Make sure you use high reliability/quality capacitors as replacements!!

The engine & transmission electronics control modules are built with a higher reliability specification, so they have yet to show the same failure propensity as the modules that control the less critical body electrical systems.

[pchotard]

The capacitors of the GM module have been already replaced. I will check the steering column module as well as you suggested.

Thanks

[pchotard]

Back on the idle current too high issue. I think i have found the root cause. Checking all relay in engine bay, i found 2 relays with bad solder. the high beam relay and the wiper pressure relay . As example on high beam relay, on the picture, at the bottom of the relay, the third solder from the right is bad.

Since the wiper relay was fixed, the idle current is back to 50mA in idle.