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Thread: S54 Oil Leak near front of Engine, Vanos Area

  1. #1
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    S54 Oil Leak near front of Engine, Vanos Area

    I had my car tech inspected for a CCA racing school in May and my guy noticed a small oil leak coming from the front of my engine. It sat for 5 month without running while I was doing rear end work this winter and I fear I dried out a seal.

    I need to pull my radiator and belts and hit it with some degreaser to try to isolate the source. I can't really see it with a mirror from above or below. It's def something in the vanos. If it sits in the garage after running it leaks about a silver dollar sized drop. While I'm in there I might as well start replacing the easy seals. Any tips on where to start? I think the control unit is an easy one. Anyone had this? I do overfill my engine slightly for track days, like 5.75 liters. And the Vanos area is high pressure.

    I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.
    Cloudbase aka Alex
    Life on the Lee-Side BLOG, Hang Gliding YouTube Channel

  2. #2
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    Is the leak near the front passenger side?

    It might be the chain tensioner and seal, part no. 5 and 6:

    w w w.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BL93&mospid=47714&btnr=11_3005& hg=11&fg=25

    Edit: Sorry. I am not allowed to post links yet; copy, paste, and remove the spaces from w w w.

  3. #3
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    Whups, sounds like the oil cannister gasket between the cannister and the block. $8 gasket, PITA installation. I had about 30 silver-dollar drops of oil on my garage floor until it was fixed.

    Now that my in-laws have given back my power washer, I guess I can clean it off now...ah crap, more stuff on my work to-do list now.
    2018 X4 M40i

  4. #4
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    I'm replacing the gas tank in the Midget, then I'm going to clean it, run it, and see if I can spot the exact place of the leak. Didn't have much luck last time though.
    Cloudbase aka Alex
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by WJames View Post
    Is the leak near the front passenger side?

    It might be the chain tensioner and seal, part no. 5 and 6:

    w w w.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BL93&mospid=47714&btnr=11_3005& hg=11&fg=25

    Edit: Sorry. I am not allowed to post links yet; copy, paste, and remove the spaces from w w w.
    This was my issue. I got some seals, but just ended up tightening it with the old seal and have not had an issue with it for almost a year now.
    2002 M Roadster, Steel Gray Metailic, Gray Nappa Leather, Black Soft Top, Steel Gray Metailic Hard Top, TC Kline Double Adj Shocks with H&R Springs, Stromung Exhaust, SSR Type C Wheels. Looking for a new home.

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  6. #6
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    The leak is near the front passenger side. Were you able to get at that very easily? Did you just tighten part number 5?
    Cloudbase aka Alex
    Life on the Lee-Side BLOG, Hang Gliding YouTube Channel

  7. #7
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    It is a tight fit, but, yes all I did was snug it up. I've checked it a few times and it's still OK. I think it is a 32 mm socket.
    2002 M Roadster, Steel Gray Metailic, Gray Nappa Leather, Black Soft Top, Steel Gray Metailic Hard Top, TC Kline Double Adj Shocks with H&R Springs, Stromung Exhaust, SSR Type C Wheels. Looking for a new home.

    2022 Z4 M40i, Misano Blue Metallic, Prem Pkg, Driver Assistance Pkg

    2023 X5 M50, Phytonic Blue, Black Extended Merion Leather, Driving Asst Pro Pkg, Park Asst Pkg, Exec Pkg, Climate Comfort Pkg.

  8. #8
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    mine leaked at #10&11 in that link. talk about hard to trace/get to......

  9. #9
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    It doesn't look like either one. It looks more like Vanos stuff above and ahead of that area, with oil being blown back into it. I need to get the radiator shield out, clean it, and drive it to ID the source. I work until mid week next week, I'll report my findings...
    Cloudbase aka Alex
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  10. #10
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    Got the fan and shroud out today and de-greased the area around and below the VANOS. Then I ran the car for about 10 minutes with a couple of fans blowing on the radiator. I let the coolant temp and oil temp warm up with moderate revs in the 1500-2500 RPM range. Once it was warm I ran it up to 5000 RPM a few times to see if I could get some oil to seep. No luck.

    The chain tensioner and seal (parts 5 & 6 in post 2) don't show any evidence of leakage. The one area I couldn't get totally clean was directly under the VANOS Adjustment Unit. It has a lot of grim, but didn't show any fresh oil. Here's a shot of the area through my mirror.



    I was hoping the leak would be between the solenoid and the adjustment unit #7 in the diagram below:



    But I suspect it is the VANOS seal, #1 below:



    I'll let it sit overnight and see if anything has leaked by morning.

    My VANOS did sound like it was rattling a little, but after warming up completely it sounded a little better. Here's a VID revving slowly from 0-5000rpm then faster. CLICK ON THE THUMBNAIL BELOW AND THE VIDEO WILL LOAD IN A SEPARATE WINDOW.



    If it is the VANOS seal, has anyone DIY'd this? It looks pretty intimidating.

    http://drvanos.com/docs/e46m3.pdf

    This one is a little more thorough, but doesn't use the toggle switch special tool.

    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=411224
    Cloudbase aka Alex
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  11. #11
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    Is this what you're looking for?

    http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

    Complete instructions for replacing S54 double vanos seals from company that sells replacement vanos seals meant to out perform OEM, complete with parts and special tools lists.

  12. #12
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    Yeah, I saw that one too. I was more curious who had done it and how hard it was.
    Cloudbase aka Alex
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  13. #13
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    Just want to bump this again. Has any one had the Vanos seal I suspect is bad leak? On an S54? Did you DIY it?
    Cloudbase aka Alex
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  14. #14
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    The beisansystem.com seals are for the M52TU and M54 only, not the S54. IIRC

    Also, try tightening the two #11 and three #12 bolts in your second diagram. I've found a lot of them to come loose and causing leaks when I worked at the dealership.

    You will have to drive the car to have the leak come back cause the Vanos doesn't do very much when the engine is reving with no loads on it.

    Also check part #2 on second diagram. That little hard line has a tendency to crack and spray oil all over the place.

  15. #15
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    Thanks. I'll mount the fan up and drive it tomorrow.
    Cloudbase aka Alex
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Norris View Post
    The beisansystem.com seals are for the M52TU and M54 only, not the S54. IIRC

    Also, try tightening the two #11 and three #12 bolts in your second diagram. I've found a lot of them to come loose and causing leaks when I worked at the dealership.

    You will have to drive the car to have the leak come back cause the Vanos doesn't do very much when the engine is reving with no loads on it.

    Also check part #2 on second diagram. That little hard line has a tendency to crack and spray oil all over the place.
    Update: I managed to get the underside of the VANOS Adjustment Unit cleaned much better. It took 3 tooth brushes and some crazy finger flexing. I mounted up the fan and drove it pretty hard to work and back (I was late).

    Sitting overnight it leaked about a quarter sized drop, but it dropped into the under body cover. I tightened both #11 and three #12 bolts in the second diagram. I was able to get them slightly tighter, but it didn't feel like they were loose. I suspect it is the line (part #2 in the diagram), but it looks like it's leaking where the heat shielding wraps around it. It would think if it was cracked it would be hemorrhaging oil though.

    Tonight I'll pull the under cover and drive it again to see if I can pin point the leak before I go throwing parts at it.

    Thanks for the help, I'll keep you updated...
    Cloudbase aka Alex
    Life on the Lee-Side BLOG, Hang Gliding YouTube Channel

  17. #17
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    The line usually cracks at the bracket (Its the small spot weld that weakens the metal) or at the junction of the hard line and soft tubing which is under the heat shield. I replaced mine with a braided line and a clamp like this http://www.maneywire.com/thumb.php?i...pg&w=150&h=124
    Last edited by Chuck Norris; 09-07-2012 at 05:22 PM.

  18. #18
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    I would be willing to bet it's the junction under the heat shielding. Is that just a bolt up replacement if I do it when the car is cold with the oil in the pan?
    Cloudbase aka Alex
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  19. #19
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    Yeah, just unbolt and replace... Along with the 4 banjo bolt sealing washers...

  20. #20
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    I cleaned and ran it again. That looks like the culprit. Exactly where you said too. I ordered another one, but they have to ship it from Germany. It's gonna be a couple weeks. I'll report back once I get it installed.
    Cloudbase aka Alex
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  21. #21
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    Wait, maybe I'm just exhausted, but I'm not sure I understand exactly what the culprit is here? I'm subscribing so I can see the outcome.

    I have a VERY MINOR oil leak at the front passenger side of the motor. It never makes it to the ground, and the oil level doesn't drop unless I'm driving very hard for a long time. I'm thinking I might just be starting this process.

    -Todd

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloudbase View Post
    I cleaned and ran it again. That looks like the culprit. Exactly where you said too. I ordered another one, but they have to ship it from Germany. It's gonna be a couple weeks. I'll report back once I get it installed.
    You should used a braided line like I did. Otherwise, it'll break again, sooner or later. They seem to break randomly. I replaced some on cars that had only a few thousand miles and some high mileage cars never had it replaced. I think the problem lies in the design or manufacturing irregularities and not wear as per say.

    Quote Originally Posted by lokijibber View Post
    ... It never makes it to the ground, and the oil level doesn't drop unless I'm driving very hard for a long time. I'm thinking I might just be starting this process.
    This is because there's pressure in there only when the VANOS is active that's why you don't loose THAT much oil. The harder you drive though, the more oil you'll lose...

  23. #23
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    So... Did you fix it??

  24. #24
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    Not yet. Still waiting on the part. They had to order it from Germany and said it will take 3 weeks. I'd like to use something braided, but not sure where to even look for that.
    Cloudbase aka Alex
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cloudbase View Post
    Got the fan and shroud out today and de-greased the area around and below the VANOS. Then I ran the car for about 10 minutes with a couple of fans blowing on the radiator. I let the coolant temp and oil temp warm up with moderate revs in the 1500-2500 RPM range. Once it was warm I ran it up to 5000 RPM a few times to see if I could get some oil to seep. No luck.

    The chain tensioner and seal (parts 5 & 6 in post 2) don't show any evidence of leakage. The one area I couldn't get totally clean was directly under the VANOS Adjustment Unit. It has a lot of grim, but didn't show any fresh oil. Here's a shot of the area through my mirror.



    I was hoping the leak would be between the solenoid and the adjustment unit #7 in the diagram below:



    But I suspect it is the VANOS seal, #1 below:



    I'll let it sit overnight and see if anything has leaked by morning.

    My VANOS did sound like it was rattling a little, but after warming up completely it sounded a little better. Here's a VID revving slowly from 0-5000rpm then faster. CLICK ON THE THUMBNAIL BELOW AND THE VIDEO WILL LOAD IN A SEPARATE WINDOW.



    If it is the VANOS seal, has anyone DIY'd this? It looks pretty intimidating.

    http://drvanos.com/docs/e46m3.pdf

    This one is a little more thorough, but doesn't use the toggle switch special tool.

    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=411224
    Setting the cam timing on an S-54 is a pita, compared to doing an S-52! For those that ask for it, I've been replacing the exhaust camshaft sprocket and hub bolts, requiring a full check of the cam timing afterwards.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cloudbase View Post
    Not yet. Still waiting on the part. They had to order it from Germany and said it will take 3 weeks. I'd like to use something braided, but not sure where to even look for that.
    Contact Earls of Indianapolis; they will make any configuration and size of braided hose that you can imagine. I'd call them reasonably priced as well.

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