Well, he;s certainly entitled to an opinion, but he's contradicting BMW's TIS (their in house service and repair manual). They are adamant about putting the same S-54 1st generation connecting rod bolt back into the very same hole it was removed from.
Are replacing the bolts a bad thing? No, as long as there are appropriate replacements available, but not mandatory either; thirty plus (30+) cars that I've personally swapped the bearings in, plus countless thousands (1000 x ?) that BMW dealerships performed the 1st, 2nd & in some cases 3rd, round of (2000 thru some date in 2003) E-46 M3 bearing recalls on.
I can't speak for the dealership's comebacks, but I haven't gotten any phone calls__and I run my own S-54 up to the redline every chance I get (the first set of S-54 bearings I swapped/updated__NOT coated either, as I didn't have a curing oven at that time).
I have to laugh though, how the popular concensus is that dealership mechanics are idiots when someone posts a problem with a poor service visit, usually resulting in replies about "why" would someone take their car there anyway, and then the total opposite if they support an opinion that "we" approve of. Just human nature, I guess.
For the record, I became good friends with nearly all the mechanics that worked at Yark BMW in Toledo, having more than one of them at my place at various times, even pitching in to help. Those guys are definitely not in the idiot category, likely as I suspect, that most others aren't either.
But to address to your closing comment, the cost of the replacement oil pump and ARP rod bolts alone exceeds the current flat cost of the bearing swap/update service I offer. If somebody wanted me to include those, I would, but the bill would be more than double what it currently is.
It's your car, so you can do as little or as much as you want
Now here's the rub; BMW doesn't offer replacement connecting rod bolts for the 1st generation of S-54 connecting rods, so HOW IS IT that he'd be "speaking on BMW's" behalf?... & he said that absolutely you trade out the bolts as they are stretch bolts.
He was speaking on BMWs behalf.
The currently available connecting rods (Feb/03 onwards) list for $3214.57. This is all that BMW offers.
There is NO WAY IN HELL that BMW is promoting ARP rod bolts. Period.
Just recently, a guy was telling me that the ARP head studs on his S-52 had failed (softened/stretched, losing their clamping force, and causing a head gasket failure). When he went back to ARP about this, they said (in so many words) that yes, they'd had a problem with them, but were happy to sell him their latest design. He declined.
See, I'm not so sure I'd want to take that risk with somebody's $20k engine (part # 11 00 0 304 353 current list $19,995.60), but you let us know how it turns out for you, 'kay?
Last edited by Randy Forbes; 09-30-2012 at 01:03 PM.
Sry to dig up an old thread, but the people at Google said it was ok.
I'm in the San Francisco Bay area, does anyone know of a reputable indy shop that is familiar with rod bearing replacement?
I have an 01, MCoupe.
Performance Technic, in Pleasanton; they've done plenty.
Sorry for the resurrection but I've been reading a good amount on this and am planning on doing the same on my 02 M Roadster (as well as subframe reinforcement). Car has ~62k on it
I'm in the phoenix area; does anyone know of a reputable BMW shop in the Valley here?
Also, how intensive is the bearing fix to do on one's own accord?
Try http://azbimmermotorwerks.com/
There was a great BMW shop off Mesa Dr. and 60, but Hans sold the business. The new owners didn't carry on Hans' service standards.
I did the prep work for Randy's subframe kit and outsourced the welding.
Last edited by ProductUser; 10-19-2017 at 05:07 PM.
Tony
"You can't sign away negligence."
I'm not a welder, so it's very difficult. Randy would be better able to answer this for you.
Cliff's Welding in Mesa charged me $200 + $200 for the tow. The prep work is the real pain in the back.
Here's my journey https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...s-Subframe-Kit
Yes, I believe that's where the shop is located.
Tony
Tony
"You can't sign away negligence."
Yes, quite involved indeed. I’m afraid that’s above my level of ‘expertise’ lol
Related, does anyone have any opinions on X braces like this one on Bimmerworld or Strong Strut's body brace?
Ah, that would make more sense
So, Randy’s subframe kit is the only ‘real’ way to prevent/solve the problem?
EDIT: to keep on topic with the thread as well, I'm about to replace my camshaft positioning sensor because I'm getting the SES light on intermittently (P0365) with no noticeable change in drivability and want to rule the sensor out. If that code comes back, could this be evidence of a rod bearing issue?
Last edited by jcpacelli; 10-19-2017 at 07:59 PM.
Bo's Motoworks is the only place other than me that ever touches my cars
Rod bearing job isnt too bad, I can loan the tools if needed
I wouldn't say only, as there are a few shops around the country that do a more competition themed modification, usually cutting out the xmbr completely and replacing it with one or another size of square or rectangular tubing. Those methods__that I've seen pictures of__can also take up additional trunk/hatch space (particularly if members are added to tie in the shock towers__which I feel is only justified when switching to full-on coil/over shock units) and compromise the false floor fitment and factory tool trays. In some cases, the intended energy absorbing crumple zones are reinforced also (not optimum if you get rear-ended).
I am not aware of any of those versions being offered in DIY/kit form, just custom/built to order installations.
Dinan at one time offered a device designed to minimize the movement of the rear suspension carrier, but it was so early to market (already available at least by 2000) that the trunkfloor weakness and OE differential mount were outside of the scope of their objective. In any case, they have referred quite a few people to me when they were queried about their product, so for that I'm grateful to them! I'm not sure they're still supporting these generations old chassis/engines, but I'm not up to the minute on their current line of products.
Plus, there are enthusiasts all over the world that just want to do it themselves, if for no other reason than because they can__though more than one has posted on this forum that it would've been easier, faster AND cheaper if they had just ordered the kit from me! I've even coached some of them along, or stopped them from making a poor choice.
So no, I'm not the only guy in the world, but I am confident to say that I'm more experienced at it than anyone I've yet heard of, and undoubtedly have more repairs under my belt and loose kits sold than anyone else you're likely to encounter. The trunkfloor/differential mount reinforcement packages have been on six (6) of seven (7) continents for over a decade now, and nobody has asked for their money back.
Now then, what was that question about connecting rod bearings?
Yes, they're now available. They're made by Clevite (who also supplied the >04/04 bearings) with an additional .0005" per shell (yields .001" increase in radial clearance).
Product information excerpt from my vendor:
The BEST PART is that they cost less than the dealership/factory bearings, even without my own (Techline tm) dry-film! I only have a couple sets of these new bearings in stock, but should be able to get more relatively fast__especially since I no longer have to do the laborious polymer coating process myself.Designed and manufactured by Clevite to custom specifications.
These bearings replace the factory BMW rod bearings. The original BMW bearings have too little clearance, which leads to premature bearing wear and can cause early engine failure. Furthermore, the factory BMW bearings are made from tin-aluminum which are 5-times harder than a softer lead-copper bearing design. A softer bearing is better for your engine and more tolerant of foreign particles suspended in your oil.
The bearings feature a state-of-the-art Clevite Tri-Metal design with the Clevite Tri-Armor(tm) coating.
Lead-copper design for greater durability and easy tracking with oil analysis like Blackstone (recommended).
Designed with extra clearance to "fix" the BMW rod bearing design flaw.
Designed for use with factory 10W60 weight oils.
Tri-Armor coated for low conditions during cold start
Standard Size
96 320i Touring
98 Z3 2.8 Roadster
01 PY M Coupe
96 Z3 1.9 - DASC
95 318ti Clubsport
94 Miata M-Edition
13 smart fortwo
How do I order me a set of them there Clevite bearings?
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Sounds like the BE Bearings, I bought mine from redline360 for $360 shipped. Already have them installed in my S54 E36 M3...I actually saw higher pressures/oil temps on the track with the new bearings in place, we checked the tolerances and they were perfect during install. I have since dropped from 10w60 weight oil to 10w50 and saw much better pressure/temps on track (now using Millers Nanodrive), prev using Liqui Moly.
http://www.bebearings.com/store/inde...products_id=27
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