S54 Rod Bearing replacement options

[ctlynch]

I'm contemplating having the s54 rod bearings replaced in my 01 M Coupe with 47k miles. I'm doing some due diligence on what the best options are, the parts are only going to be a fraction of the total cost to do this. I don't want to do this twice and I want the peace of mind knowing that once this is done I don't have to think twice about taking it to the redline. It's mostly a sunny day/week end driver but I'm contemplating taking it to the track for a few lap days.

So what is the consensus best option?

BMW's M3 recall kit?
Randy Forbes' bearings?
Bimmerworld kit with ARP bolts?
VAC bearing set?
Something else?

What other parts will I need? I plan on taking it into the shop (I don't have the equipment to do this myself) handing them the parts and having them do it. Anything else to do while we're in there?

Thanks guys!

Cameron

[z3540i]

I didnt know bearings were a problem on 01's..i thought it was older ones...maybe not...others will join in....I dont have an M or even a 6 cylinder but if i did....i would roll the M3 recall kit.

[Randy Forbes]

I'm contemplating having the s54 rod bearings replaced in my 01 M Coupe with 47k miles. I'm doing some due diligence on what the best options are, the parts are only going to be a fraction of the total cost to do this. I don't want to do this twice and I want the peace of mind knowing that once this is done I don't have to think twice about taking it to the redline. It's mostly a sunny day/week end driver but I'm contemplating taking it to the track for a few lap days.

So what is the consensus best option?

BMW's M3 recall kit?
Randy Forbes' bearings?
Bimmerworld kit with ARP bolts?
VAC bearing set?
Something else?

What other parts will I need? I plan on taking it into the shop (I don't have the equipment to do this myself) handing them the parts and having them do it. Anything else to do while we're in there?

Thanks guys!

Cameron

If the quoted price has "the parts cost at a fraction of the total job" then you're talking to the wrong people!

If you use the M3 recall kit, the ONLY other things you need to buy are the sump gasket and the oil.

I just did four (4) sets of bearings (apply dry-film lubricant) three (3) weeks ago and they're already sold out. I'll be ordering some more (M3 recall kits__the most economical way to obtain the bearings) and get busy on another batch ASAP.

A little more than a year ago, an ///M Rdstr owner in Denver (since relocated to WA) was quoted such a high price for doing the bearing swap alone, that he was able to cover 2/3rds of the transportation costs to me (then in Toledo, Ohio) and justify getting the trunkfloor/differential mount work done in the process. Just sayin'...

[PbFut]

Go with Randy. Everyone else will get you by but when dealing with Randy, you are working with a guy that has a reputation that is very valuable to him. In 10 years, I've not seen one negative comment about Randy, his kits or parts. I believe there is a reason for that. The Z3 community has a valuable asset that needs to be supported by us.

[Mr Bingley]

+1

[Adrian G.]

Go with Randy. Everyone else will get you by but when dealing with Randy, you are working with a guy that has a reputation that is very valuable to him. In 10 years, I've not seen one negative comment about Randy, his kits or parts. I believe there is a reason for that. The Z3 community has a valuable asset that needs to be supported by us.

Agreed.

[ctlynch]

It's a LONG way from Denver to FL. Plus my car already has your subframe fix installed with a Rogue diff cover...so I'm good there.

I guess that I'll have to do a little poking around on finding a shop to do it. Thanks Randy!

Cameron

[Bcar]

It's a LONG way from Denver to FL. Plus my car already has your subframe fix installed with a Rogue diff cover...so I'm good there.

I guess that I'll have to do a little poking around on finding a shop to do it. Thanks Randy!

Cameron

try Mark at SCR performance, think they're in loveland or denver. I know he used to run a coupe a few years back, not sure if it was an S54 or 52. if he cant do it, he'll be able to point you in the correct direction. I can think of at least one other S54 coupe on the front range to try to get a deal for doing 2

[jrmartin03]

try Mark at SCR performance, think they're in loveland or denver. I know he used to run a coupe a few years back, not sure if it was an S54 or 52. if he cant do it, he'll be able to point you in the correct direction. I can think of at least one other S54 coupe on the front range to try to get a deal for doing 2

Yeah, that's probably who I would recommend talking to other people. His coupe was an S52 though. You could see if they'd deal for doing two at once.

[carnut169]

What problem does this fix? What cars are prone to seeing this issue?

[f50nut]

About to tackle this myself with the M3 bearing kit.

I have read different walkthroughs, still have one question for whoever can answer it. Will I be reusing the original rod bolts or the new ones supplied with the kit?

I'm guessing the new ones since they're stretch bolts, just want to be sure.

[the alpinweiss]

Yeah, that's probably who I would recommend talking to other people. His coupe was an S52 though. You could see if they'd deal for doing two at once.

Mark quoted me about $900 in labor to do the bearings of my choice. total was gonna be about $1300 after I bought randy's bearings.


...I sold the S54 and bought an S52 instead

[CaliAgents]

About to tackle this myself with the M3 bearing kit.

I have read different walkthroughs, still have one question for whoever can answer it. Will I be reusing the original rod bolts or the new ones supplied with the kit?

I'm guessing the new ones since they're stretch bolts, just want to be sure.

This is from the October 2004 Bearing Recall SIB. I also recall Randy confirming the same. So yes, we reuse our original rod bolts.

[f50nut]

This is from the October 2004 Bearing Recall SIB. I also recall Randy confirming the same. So yes, we reuse our original rod bolts.

Thanks for that. I thought I was going crazy after reading a walkthrough on a Z4M.

[Randy Forbes]

Go with Randy. Everyone else will get you by but when dealing with Randy, you are working with a guy that has a reputation that is very valuable to him. In 10 years, I've not seen one negative comment about Randy, his kits or parts. I believe there is a reason for that. The Z3 community has a valuable asset that needs to be supported by us.

+1

Agreed.

Thanks Dan, and guys, I really appreciate that!

Most of the people that have physically brought their cars to me (a greater percentage just get shipped, and I don't ever meet the owners) have heard me tell them that when their car is here, it's mine. So yes, every car, regardless of the condition it arrives in, gets taken care of the way I'd do a job for myself__sometimes even better!

If I just needed a job, I would've stuck with instrumentation work, as it pays better (not to mention the typical benefits we all take for granted working for someone else) but I really love what I'm doing. Not even the repetition of doing the same tasks bother me, as I'm still looking for ways of doing it better each time. There's a couple aspects I don't like; drilling out the spotwelds of the old mount & modifying stock exhausts, but I just try to get those jobs behind me and enjoy the rest of the job.

If you really want to get on my good side, bring me a clean car.

It's a LONG way from Denver to FL. Plus my car already has your subframe fix installed with a Rogue diff cover...so I'm good there.

I guess that I'll have to do a little poking around on finding a shop to do it. Thanks Randy!

Cameron

That's a pretty good start!

[yash]

If you really want to get on my good side, bring me a clean car.

Your easy to satisfy!

[f50nut]

I just did four (4) sets of bearings (apply dry-film lubricant) three (3) weeks ago and they're already sold out. I'll be ordering some more (M3 recall kits__the most economical way to obtain the bearings) and get busy on another batch ASAP.

Randy, I have a set of brand new uncoated from the recall kit. Happy to send them to you and pay for coated ones. Do you know when the next batch will be ready?

[Bcar]

Thanks Dan, and guys, I really appreciate that!

Most of the people that have physically brought their cars to me (a greater percentage just get shipped, and I don't ever meet the owners) have heard me tell them that when their car is here, it's mine. So yes, every car, regardless of the condition it arrives in, gets taken care of the way I'd do a job for myself__sometimes even better!

Why the @!#$%#$@ did you have to move to FL! ITS CALLED BEING A SNOWBIRD! NOT a permanent migration!!
would have been nice driving 45min to drop the car off...

[surferz]

In my dealings with any rebuilding of a rotating assembly it was just rule of thumb to just get rod bolts.
Randy could you fill me in with the logic behind the reuse of the originals?
I'm sure after I install the S54 into my coupe (3.0 now) you'll be seeing it for the subframe kit.

[Randy Forbes]

Your easy to satisfy!

I have my moments...

Randy, I have a set of brand new uncoated from the recall kit. Happy to send them to you and pay for coated ones. Do you know when the next batch will be ready?

I'll order 4-6 more recall kits next week, so I'll probably run another batch in a couple weeks. I'll swap them with you, just send me the whole kit (make sure you put all your contact info in the box, so I know where to ship them back).

E-mail me for address, price, etc.: erandyforbes@aol.com

Why the @!#$%#$@ did you have to move to FL! ITS CALLED BEING A SNOWBIRD! NOT a permanent migration!!
would have been nice driving 45min to drop the car off...

I lived "there" for eleven (>11) years, I gave you as much time as I could...

In my dealings with any rebuilding of a rotating assembly it was just rule of thumb to just get rod bolts.
Randy could you fill me in with the logic behind the reuse of the originals?
I'm sure after I install the S54 into my coupe (3.0 now) you'll be seeing it for the subframe kit.

BMW was adamant about not only reusing the same bolts, but putting them back into the same hole they were removed from (see Cali's post above) so I'm just following directions.

Note, if you have a Z4/M with the later rods and want/need to replace the bolts, they have to be "cycled" (tightened in stages to torque/torque angle AND released) like four or five *4-5) times. That's in the same SIB, but Cali didn't post that section for us Z3/M types.

Note too, that individual replacement connecting rods for "our" engines ARE NOT available. If you screw up ONE BOLT/ONE THREAD, you'll have to buy a complete set of currently available rods (several years ago, list was $3k+) and have to pull off the head to be able to install them.

I follow directions and put the same bolt back in the same hole I took it out of!

[KeysCoupe]

I'll comment on my take of reusing rod bolts.
IF you replace a rod bolt, that is take the bolt out of the rod, then you MUST rebuild/resize the big end of the rod when the new bolt (or original) is reinstalled.
I'm sure others may disagree, but thats my policy.
The rod bolts align the orientation of the rod cap. If the bolts are disturbed, then the cap alignment is changed and the big end must be line-bored under full torque to maintain a perfect concentric bore.
Most rod bolts can be reused several times with no issues, but if one ever stretches beyond specs when it is torqued, its time to replace. On engines I build, both rod bolt torque and stretch are always measured.

My comments are generic regarding pressed-in bolts, as used on American and most engines. I have not pulled a BMW engine apart to know if they use this style, or a bolt that goes through the cap. I just read Randy's comments and relised these must use a bolt only, not a bolt with a nut as I am more accustomed.
I still agree with Randy's comments as to keeping things meticulously in order for my same reasons I stated above.
-Donny

[Randy Forbes]

I'll comment on my take of reusing rod bolts.
IF you replace a rod bolt, that is take the bolt out of the rod, then you MUST rebuild/resize the big end of the rod when the new bolt (or original) is reinstalled.
I'm sure others may disagree, but thats my policy.
The rod bolts align the orientation of the rod cap. If the bolts are disturbed, then the cap alignment is changed and the big end must be line-bored under full torque to maintain a perfect concentric bore.
Most rod bolts can be reused several times with no issues, but if one ever stretches beyond specs when it is torqued, its time to replace. On engines I build, both rod bolt torque and stretch are always measured.
-Donny

Donny, now you know I agree with you on just about everything, because, well, right is right, no matter who says it.

However, and I see where you're coming from, but when a rod is resized (for those that don't know, a small amount of material is taken from the mating surface of the cap, then bolted/torqued back onto the rod and bored "round" again) you still have to remove the bolt, thereby disturbing the joint, in order to assemble the components back into an engine.


Edit: incidentally, these S-54 connecting rods CANNOT be resized in the conventional manner, if at all, due to there "fractured" separation method of manufacture. I'll find some pictures...





Okay Donny, you're off the hook

The "fractured" separation, i.,e., grainy structure, besides being cheaper to manufacture, ensures correct cap location, though it was how they cut the "tang" recesses is what (in my opinion) was the cause of the whole bearing spinning/KaBoom problem...

[KeysCoupe]

Randy, yeah, the lowly chevy engines I build also now use the "crack cap" method on their powdered metal rods. I think they started that back in the mid '90s with the LT-1 s in the Vettes and Caprices.
Most of what I play with is old-school from the '50s through the '70s for American iron as well as the British stuff of the same vintage.
I might get up with you for your special coating on the bearings for my AH 3000 and a fun little 1275 for a Bugeye.
-Donny

[f50nut]

I'll order 4-6 more recall kits next week, so I'll probably run another batch in a couple weeks. I'll swap them with you, just send me the whole kit (make sure you put all your contact info in the box, so I know where to ship them back).

E-mail me for address, price, etc.: erandyforbes@aol.com

Sent email

[surferz]

I have my moments...

I'll order 4-6 more recall kits next week, so I'll probably run another batch in a couple weeks. I'll swap them with you, just send me the whole kit (make sure you put all your contact info in the box, so I know where to ship them back).

E-mail me for address, price, etc.: erandyforbes@aol.com

I lived "there" for eleven (>11) years, I gave you as much time as I could...

BMW was adamant about not only reusing the same bolts, but putting them back into the same hole they were removed from (see Cali's post above) so I'm just following directions.

Note, if you have a Z4/M with the later rods and want/need to replace the bolts, they have to be "cycled" (tightened in stages to torque/torque angle AND released) like four or five *4-5) times. That's in the same SIB, but Cali didn't post that section for us Z3/M types.

Note too, that individual replacement connecting rods for "our" engines ARE NOT available. If you screw up ONE BOLT/ONE THREAD, you'll have to buy a complete set of currently available rods (several years ago, list was $3k+) and have to pull off the head to be able to install them.

I follow directions and put the same bolt back in the same hole I took it out of!

Randy I spoke with my friend who is a bmw mechanic about what you said & he said that absolutely you trade out the bolts as they are stretch bolts.
He was speaking on BMWs behalf.
I am replacing mine from an 01 MZ3 along with the oil pump as a standard maintenance.