Yes I will try a few different tunes including the original file.
Exiting
Hove much differens do you expect on a complete original CSi?
I will gladly fund you a bit for a set of chips
Regards
Terje
Yes it will be very interesting to see what the standard tune gives in comparison.
Hard to tell for max HP but the area under the power curve must have increased a fair amount. It's really not about Max HP with a road car, the area under the power curve itself is more important IMO.
My idea was not to make money, I should have hundreds of 256 Eproms on my bench....I'll burn you a couple for free if you pay the postage.
I'm looking forward to figuring out the EML operation, with any luck I should see the K and S maps using adsdress hit trace on TunerPro.
@ omega man
where are you in the UK?
how about putting up a few pics of your CSi?
Best of luck with the remap
Hi, I'm near Bath. Thanks .
Very nice. Love the 2 tone interior.
This car is just badass. What is the profile on the rear tires?
OUTSTANDING
what hp do you hope for? NA
Maybe because the rear sun blind was up.
I don't think 425 is out of the question but we will see, to be honest its everywhere else in the rev range that has improved the most.
The mid range has changed drastically. I need to sort out the high part throttle fuel as its still a little on the lean side.
Last edited by Omega man 1969; 09-11-2012 at 03:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I'll drop you a pm to help with testing once I get back travelling.
Great- I lie under the car for a few sessions and miss all this.. Awesome progress!
Same 'ol story here.. people at work sense I have time to take-a-breath and now I have twice as much to do. I hope to take a step soon but on a good note my exhaust is almost done. Free-flow cats and 2.5" (all welded) from the cats back and !resonator. I even opened up the inlet ports of the muffs from 2" to 2.5". The tips all float 1/8" below the bumper plastic Need a chip mod fo-sho!
On the Knock sensor.. of course you can do plug-cuts to see what's happening but thinking about an aftermarket knock-sensor.. the issue (again, way back when) was that the sensor itself is MATCHED to the frequency of the "sound" sensed at the block mounting location for a specific setup. Setup means sensor location, block, piston material and everything else that muffles or echoes sound through the mass. Essentially in order to detect knock electronically.. you had to PRODUCE IT and capture the results with expensive equipment.. so you can select (or spec the manufacture of) a sensor. Bottom line.. buying an aftermarket knock-indicator would reliably get you a device that alerted you at the same time your ear picked up audible knock. The lesson was.. if you "tune to audible knock" and get it to go away, the inaudible knock.. which is very bad.. might still be there.
{edit} Well I went out and just got to it.. I have the .bin and it lines up well with the (scant, yet appreciated) TP xdf found on the TP site for the M60B30 404.. and compares closely to 0261200404-1267357689.bin found there too.
Really need a "definite known stock" bin from a real e31 840 to compare to.. I'm sure mine has been messed with. There's a couple close-ish 840's in a local group round here.. I met them only once but unless one of you fine folks wants to mail me a stock chip to read.. it's my only way to see what crazyness someone threw into this car. I call it that because I highly doubt it was a o2 dyno tune based on some of the schtuff I've uncovered the PO did. It looks like 4th-tier mail-order or forum-tune.
cheers and thanks for this thread! First step complete! Next.. find my Ostrich!
Last edited by CMPNS8N; 09-12-2012 at 10:50 PM.
_________
(RIP)
Dyno session cancelled. One of my AHK hoses burst yesterday evening. They had corroded where they exit the wheel well.
A new set of 4 hoses is £500 from BMW, special order from Germany.
A 5 day wait now oh well it could have been a lot worse.
Have them rebuilt at a Hydraulic hose repair shop, Less than half the price, They don't care what it's for as long as it has fittings and a hose on it, They can fix it.
+1 with 8eights
had the same thing on my 850ci
Last edited by koenig d; 09-13-2012 at 01:08 PM.
I tried a local Hydraulic hose company..Pirtek....they said it would cost the same if not more and were concerned as to why one hose had a larger diameter rubber section but similar metal diameter size, maybe some kind of dampening? who knows. I'm guessing high pressure is large one and low pressure the smaller one.
The parts have been ordered now with BM along with 4 litres of CFH11s, Glad it was a pretty straight forward fix.
Big shame I'm going to miss the Dyno session, I was really looking forward to taking a video for you guys.
Last edited by Omega man 1969; 09-13-2012 at 01:27 PM.
Well. Get the car fixed and take then the vid
Guys, any tips on removing the propshaft, I noticed the input seal on the diff is leaking.
So far I've removed the exhausts and the prop centre bearing support. I've unbolted the prop from the diff but it needs about another 5mm Clearance to drop out f the way. Looking at the diagrams, even if I unbolt at the gearbox end there is a section that sits inside the fitting.
If you rotate the prop, there will be a couple of positions the flange will drop down if the centre bearing is down. Also make sure the splined centre section is free to slide so the joint will slide together.
8Tech.
It is possible to bend it out , I did it myself a few years ago
But it,s as you say if it was 5mm shorter it would be alot easier.
I also later heard that it's really important to toque up the centerbolt in the diff with correct toque as to much can destroy the diff.
I will lok for DYI i had :-)
Regards
Terje
Found the link
http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/105...al+Prop+Gaiter
Last edited by huldra66; 09-14-2012 at 04:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thanks 8tech, mine has a universal joint in the centre section but no splines that I can see. The diff end has a boot and splines though. I've tried turning it to various positions but no joy. Looks like I will have to remove the front section of exhaust, remove the heat shield so that the prop can bend downwards.
How about removing the 2 22mm bolts on the front diff support ? Would it drop forwards enough for the prop to clear? The AHK system is in the way of the rear bolts.
Terje, thanks for the tip. Yes I will mark the nut so that it's tightened back to the same position. I rebuilt my Datsun LSD so I'm aware of preload issues
Last edited by Omega man 1969; 09-14-2012 at 04:46 PM.
I remember removing the heat shields to get enough space .
Regards
Terje
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