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Thread: ABS/DSC Module Replacement

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    1,494
    My Cars
    E28, E32, E39, E53, E90

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sandy, Oregon
    Posts
    464
    My Cars
    2002 330Ci, 1995 325is
    I just did this job recently with this same module. Is your module under the Brake master cylinder. If it is you will have to remove the brake lines. It's a hassle but not that hard. Just be very careful reconnecting the lines as they could cross thread very easily. Then use a pressure bleeder to remove the air in the system. If you have a manual transmission you have to unhook the feed from the brake fluid reservoir. That's not in most instructions. You need the pressure bleeder to get all the air out. Then get it coded and you're done. No more three lights. If yours is on the right side it a much easier job as you won't have to remove the brake master cylinder to get to the module.
    A lot of people will give you advice on this repair, most of it well meaning, but be careful as there are a variety of different modules used and their repair differs. Some of the advice here is not for your specific car and needs to be taken with a grain of salt. And some of it will need to be ignored.
    Last edited by curry; 03-20-2018 at 12:55 PM.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2008 328i, 2013 X5

    Cross Thread Happened!

    Quote Originally Posted by curry View Post
    Just be very careful reconnecting the lines as they could cross thread very easily.
    I wish I would have seen this warning before...I have a 2008 E92 and have the dreaded ABS/DSC Module. I managed to do all the research, send the part out to Module Masters, and then came installation. I tried desperately to line up the line and could not get the to thread. I finally took out all the line, and loosened the bolts (beginner's error), and started with the front lines. That allowed me to get the one on the left side in easily, but trying to get the one on the right side resulted in me cross threading. I connected the rest of the lines to see if i could straighten out the line, but it did not work. I cleaned up the unit, and tested to see if it would fix the error codes. The good news is that it fixed all the codes, the bad news is I got new codes, presumably for the lack of pressure. I came back to the car a few weeks later on the weekend, and wanted to test for leaks and errors. Surprisingly, all the error codes are gone, and the only issue is the soft brakes (have not bled...going to do a fluid exchange). However, there was no fluid leak after the test. My concern is that the cross thread line will be a problem. Either air can get in, liquid leak out, etc. Also, once the system is filled, and used, the pressure may result in a leak. I have seen suggestion to chase the thread with a tap, but I have not done this before. I am not sure what tap size I would need. I imagine it is the 11mm, but not sure, and also do not know if there is a thread size for the tap that needs to be considered. Any thoughts, suggestions advice on the best course would be greatly appreciated. Having gone through the process of getting it rebuilt, I do not want to replace the unit, but I have read many posts on the dangers of the cross thread. I also thought of sending it back out to Module Masters to see if they will chase the thread, but they are closed through Monday. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
    Last edited by ATLBMW2020; 07-10-2020 at 11:02 AM.

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