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Thread: Stored E31 with battery disconnect - trunk won't open

  1. #1
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    Stored E31 with battery disconnect - trunk won't open

    I stored my 1995 840ci 6 months ago. Batteries we're disconnected. Sadly, I forgot my trunk latch doesn't work. Seems like the cable is bad. I can access inside the car, have the key, and can access the trunk through the center console in the back seat. Ideas?

  2. #2
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    Juice the car through the cigarette lighter and you should be able to get enough power to open the trunk.
    ========
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by akatoch View Post
    Juice the car through the cigarette lighter and you should be able to get enough power to open the trunk.
    Not if the batteries are disconnected...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ultim8 View Post
    Not if the batteries are disconnected...
    Oh just noticed that the OP said that his trunk latch has issues.

    But for the record, I had accidentally closed the trunk after disconnecting both batteries while working on my alternator a month back. I powered the car from an auxiliary source through the cigarette lighter and was able to pop the trunk open - did i just get lucky?
    Last edited by akatoch; 07-24-2012 at 04:07 PM.
    ========
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  5. #5
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    Any chance the trunk latch is exposed when looking through the ski bag opening? If so a flash light and a loooonnnng screw driver can pop it open.

  6. #6
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    Can't you just do the 'ol put the key in the trunk lock cylinder, turn, pull key out, then press the cylinder with your finger? I seem to recall doing this many a time. Maybe my memories were enhanced/damaged by vino & tequila?
    Last edited by Koizumi; 07-24-2012 at 04:15 PM.
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  7. #7
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    I've had the same problem. Simply provide power to another battery source with the positive signal located in the engine bay that will be triggered latches. Good luck

  8. #8
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    Use.The.Key.

  9. #9
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    I believe the latch is disconnected. If so the key serves no purpose.

    I think!

  10. #10
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    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3#post23930093

    David is right... the process can't be deviated from, the key will open it mechanically ... I thought I was screwed till I read this... to do it on a 7 series involves a drill bit

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8eights View Post
    I believe the latch is disconnected. If so the key serves no purpose.

    I think!
    If the latch is that broken, nothing short of a crowbar or plastique would open it, even with connected batteries.

    The "Old Fashioned" use of the key may sound rather old school, and admittedly can be rather confusing to those not experienced in the exact method, but it WORKS. - and it will do the job here as well.

  12. #12
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    In the first post, He says the latch does'nt work, I just took a look and if the key is disconnected from the latch, A long Socket extention with a 10mm socket on the end can remove the 3 latch screws and then he should be able to safely McGyver from there with a little imagination.

    ***Edit***

    Then again, If the key turns and the pin pushes off from the latching point, It should open.
    Last edited by 8eights; 07-24-2012 at 06:05 PM.

  13. #13
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    Just to elaborate - I put the key in the trunk lock, turn it and the handle just compresses fully. No change if the key is inserted and turned or not.

  14. #14
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    I jump mine off a battery...connected to the terminals in the engine bay.

    Works just fine.

    Mine WILL NOT open with the key method, when dead. Been thru this several times.

    Maybe it a 95 only thing..I dunno.
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  15. #15
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    If the latch is disconnected it will not open the trunk with two fully charged batteries. So what is the issue here? If the latch operates when the power is present the what Koizumi said is correct. put the key in the lock turn it,remove key, push up on the lock button not the latch.
    97 840ci-99 540i6-90 535i5 all black

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by thelivingpower View Post
    Just to elaborate - I put the key in the trunk lock, turn it and the handle just compresses fully. No change if the key is inserted and turned or not.
    Are you pushing up the button where you insert the key? You push the button in, (not the handle), after inserting the key, turning it, then removing it.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by thelivingpower View Post
    Just to elaborate - I put the key in the trunk lock, turn it and the handle just compresses fully. No change if the key is inserted and turned or not.
    As others have already told you, push the part you just pulled the freshly turned key from, NOT the Handle. It is a big button, not just a lock cylinder

  18. #18
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    ... push the cylinder with one finger and with the index finger of the other hand... all i know is it opened my trunk... i was relieved and amazed it was a definite like wow situation...
    The latch is, with a huge grin, German over-engineering at it's absolute finest, it's totally trick... if you just open and close it without checking out the mechanical function... you're missing it.
    Maybe it's simple things for a simple mind... but I dug it especially on the fact that it was open. I was doing the batteries and the shock struts at the same time.
    Reminds me the time i did the head on my sister's 67' TR-4A IRS, but that's fodder for another "dumb move" story... the sound of the hood closing and latching just echoed in my head... oh nooooo.
    Last edited by 840rod; 07-24-2012 at 09:47 PM.

  19. #19
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    I've said it before but I'll say it again: this topic comes up about once a week, can we make it a sticky with the how-to on the key emergency open procedure?

    Or search maybe?

    @OP, hope you managed to get in OK

  20. #20
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    That was the issue, along with probably some issues in the latch. But, she opened!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by IcemanBHE View Post
    I jump mine off a battery...connected to the terminals in the engine bay.

    Works just fine.

    Mine WILL NOT open with the key method, when dead. Been thru this several times.

    Maybe it a 95 only thing..I dunno.
    Broken part prolly. My 95s both work with the key method.

    My #1 car trunk latch never worked right; figured out one day that the whole solenoid mechanism was missing.
    How come the middle half of any project always takes the most time?

  22. #22
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    i have opened my trunk a few times when batteries are disconnected with the good ole 'insert key in cylinder twist and push' technique ..
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  23. #23
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    As have I. I do recall it requiring a firm push and twist...much more then usual.

  24. #24
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    Hi! I know this is an old thread but with useful info. I also had the same problem and solved it. Here is my case:

    I disconnected the battery then shut the trunk. Once the bat is disconnected, the circuit is not closed and you cannot jump it from the hood to pop the trunk open. I tried the emergency key but it wont open... I then remembered that I had the carpet in the trunk fixed. So what happens is the latch is either misaligned or the carpet is pushing the trunk up. This makes the mechanism stuck. Solution was to have a friend push the trunk down then use the key to open it till you hear a click then whallla! Trunk is open. You can then lube the mechanism and align the latch. My solution was to put washers on the latch to bring it to a lower position to compensate for the new tight carpet. I think the same will hold true with cars that have been stored for a while. Hope this helps...
    Last edited by sooper; 07-29-2017 at 11:46 PM.

  25. #25
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    I had the same problem. In March both batteries dead after garage storage. My FoB key wouldn't push up on the trunk lock button either. I have the wallet key that came with the car, without the FOB housing, and used that and it unlocked. I suspect my FOB housing was not allowing the unlock button to push up all the way. If you don't have the wallet key then just remove the FOB from the key portion and try that. (This was the first time I had used the unlock trunk button.)

    i tried to use the battery terminal under the hood (bonnet for Timm) but the general module when ape cycling the entire car with relay noises so I decided against that method.

    Interesting how the batteries went dead. The car had sat for six months with the CTEK 3300 trickle charger on - at least so I thought. Evidently the local power had failed at some point and the CTEK reset to off. So after six months of storage the batteries were flat. The batteries were new six years ago so since they were on the years replacement schedule I decided to get two new ones. It's been my experience that once batteries are five years old and deplete that's it's better to replace them rather than recharge. Plus it gives me piece of mind that no matter where I am the new batteries will start the car. I've been in the situation years ago were I prayed before every start, after recharging an "old" dead battery that it would work.

    The lesson learned is to periodically check the CTEK to ensure it didn't recycle off.

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