Hi guys my problem is continuing with my car. More help needed. So I finally got to the point where my car runs and drives perfect. But just after I put my new rotors and caps on the car went for a drive to see if it helped. After about 15 min driving my check engine light come on and the car went into LHM. Turned around to get home and by the time I got home it give me trans fail safe.
It seems like that every time the car cools off it runs fine , strong on all 12. 15-20 min driving and the same thing happens. After I did a stomp test I got a 1215 code and a 2235. I'm totally clueless what to even look for at this point. I was thinking fuel pump but why is it only happens after a while of driving? Switched the coils MAF. No difference problem is still on the passenger side.
Any ideas would be appreciated thanx.
know anyone that can plug you into GT1? it gives a lot more details then a stomp test does.
Current:
- 09 335i MSport, FBO.
- 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
- 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
- 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
- 73 3.0CS, Tagia Green, 5 speed M30b35 converted
Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed
1215 code is Mass air sensor for bank 1-6
2235 is not a valid code....
I'll say the same thing I have to other people who've had this probem; check your fuel filters. I was having exactly the same symptoms for a couple of months before I changed them and the problem went away. Hopefully it will be that simple and you won't spend the hundreds I did trying to diagnose engine/gearbox problems!
If I had a penny for everytime someone commented on my poor fuel economy, I'd have enough to get it to the petrol station.
Unfurtunatly I don't know anyone with that gt1 tool. And the shops I use are flat out told me to don't even bring it to them because they don't have the tools or the knowledge to diagnose or work on this car.
And about the fuel filter I have changed both of them just recently. Also changed plugs and wires, rotors and caps. Air filters and 02 sensors. Cleaned MAF throttlebody.
So the general consent is to take it to the BMW dealer and get a diagnostics done?
Missing from the list of things you changed recently was coils. If you know which side of the engine isnt running, swap the coils from side to side. If the problem switches sides you have a bad coil. If not, swap back and cross that possible cause off your list.
91 850 (Panzer), 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman (WifeMobile) www.wuffer.ca
same shit for almost half a year, everything changed, will try to get the gt1 also to do the diagnostics.
I can only add that I've also changed the crank postion sensors, and the pulse senders on plugs 6 and 12 no difference, all the temp sensors also new as well.
only in my case it is the drivers side that makes this weirdness
Last edited by riddlerLV; 07-15-2012 at 05:28 PM.
I did do the coils alredy, just forgot to mention it. No diferend and didint change side's. I just tryed to switch the connectors on the O2 and it only got worse soo that was good.
I just took it to the gas station and back about 10 miles drive. Kept the car under 2000 rpm it was fine. Just before I got home I started flooring it. Seemed ok. The 4th time I floored it , did the same thing.
This is really turning into one big nightmere. I finally got the engine running very good. And now this.
And this 2235 code. Is weird since it dosnt exist. I just don't get it. When I changed the MAF from one side to the other I never switched it back is that could be a problem? Just guessing at this point.
I also had a non existing stomp code for quite some time. At the end it was a defective O2 sensor. After I fixed that this strange code was gone.
Since I got tired of not knowing what's going on with my engine in some cases i decided to get myself the GT1 system.
1. Got a used Dell Latitude 630 with serial input (essential) for roughly €200,-
2. Got an interface for €100,- IIRC
3. All the BMW specific software I found on the web for free.
4. Installed everything (has been the hardest part) and don't need to see the dealer anymore
If you plan to keep your 8 and do more work on it yourself this is the way to go IMO.
Well in a way I don't have a choice but do the work on it my self since nobody else seems to wanna work at work on it. As of today I still would like to keep it but it's starting to frustrate me know. I just really would like to be able to enjoy it , the summers almost over and I haven't really had a chance to drive it yet. LOL. but I still keep my hopes up that I can get it running properly soon
serial port it is the same com port?
What software have you got and where can I get it please
Hi I just purchased this ready cheap You should buy one and test the car yourself
http://www.autoobd2.co.uk/wholesale/...t-65-1062.html
Last edited by Winkie; 07-16-2012 at 07:54 PM.
8 Series Never Ending
What do you guys think could it be a weak or bad battery causing all my problems?
I'm really on my own on this one. I called bmw and they basically said that they don't have any mechanics that are experienced with this vehicles. So they can't say they will and how fast can find the problem. So after that I called one of the most reputable import shop in the city told them what I have and what kind of problems I have thay said that don't even bring it to them because they don't wanna work on it at all. So at this point I really need you guys help with this. I don't want to turn this beautiful car into a lawn ornament.
ask these guys for a recommended independent shop info@bmwpower.ca
That's the BMW club of Manitoba...
Birchwood BMW most certainly has the diagnostic equipment, but if they don't have a trained monkey... dunno what to say.
I am taking mine to an experienced electrician, if he doesn't find any thing all the M70 electronic shit goes, m73 electronics from e38 will be installed instead, completely sick of this limp mode. the m73 at least can be diagnosed more widely + around here lots of ecu sets are available if mine do go bad some day
Maybe the OP should take his car to Frank (N) Motors. They've worked on the E31. Or take it to Birchwood BMW.
Last edited by llcarlos; 07-18-2012 at 02:39 PM.
Check the relays of the fuel pumps located in the engine bay on the right. There are also relays the DME, see if it's ok. Fuel pumps may have intermittent faults, especially after an operation time of the car. Check the pressure of the pumps or replace them in position, if the failure to switch sides, the problem is the pump. How the whip is the engine of your car?
Hi guys Frank motors said not to bring it to them and Birchwood BMW wants basically an open check book before they look at it. And that's not an option eighter.
There is an update tho.
After I switched the fuel lines @ the filter I decided to put everything else back to where they are supposd to be. So I switched the fuel lines back , the coils , and the MaF's.
And since all my trouble started after replacing the rotors and caps, I decited to take thge cap of the pass side. And I found that the brand new cap on one spot it seems like it was rubbing on something on the inside to the point where I had a bunch of filing inside and the plastic got paper thin on one spot with almost starting to have a hole on it. I have no idea how that could happen. So I put one of the old cap back on.
After starting the car it ran exellent , I took it for a drive, drove fine. So I started to drive it hard and it was great. So after a half Hour driving/ beating on it , I got a check engine light. No limp mode both banks are running but it revs very slow and my tranny shifts hard. After coooling of it was ok again for a bit before I got the light back on. Stomp code is 1215 and 2222. Idle good no missfire , everything seems to be good just very slow reving.
Now any new ideas?
If I take the dk motors out do I need something special seal or gasket to put them back in?
Thanx for any input.
Before playing in another area you should find the root cause for the cap issue. Just replacing the mechanically defective cap with another one is no solution. Find out the WHAT and WHY on the old cap's damage. Sounds to me like you are finally on the right track. So stick to it. What does the rotor look like? Is it tight on the metal plate? Is the metal plate securely fastened to the cam shaft? These are the things I'd check now.
The rotor looked fine no damage , and the damage on the cap could not be caused by the cap. I'm thinking maybe a defective cap. There isint anything in there that spinning. Is there?
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