Hi.
I don't normally post much but thought I'd share & document this one...
Spend most of my free time wrenching and now that the car is finally solid and to my liking it is time for turbo.
Typical build mirroring most that are on here...
S50 running VEMS ECU
I owe a big thanks to Dmitry (TheJuggernaut) and Gunnar (gstuning) for help getting the VEMS up and running NA...car (was) running great and has been dead reliable - also averaging north of 20 mpg which I'm quite pleased with, considering that the fuel map is still quite rich in some areas.
Parts list:
- Bottom mount spal
- spal turbo
- 60 # injectors
- MLS (until it blows)
- Tial 38 mm WG
- HKS BOV
- Above subframe hotside
- EBay Special F1 Clutch + Flywheel
- 3" Downpipe --> QTP Electronic Cutout --> Stock cat-back
- Modded EBay Greddy Type Catch Can --> Exhaust Check Valve
- Mac 3-valve Boost Controller with VEMS Boost by gear
- No name blacked out IC
Turbo, DP + WG are ceramic coated, 2.5" Hot side piping, 3" cold side.
Project starting slowly. Spent the 4th pulling the trans, cleaning it up and installing shift pins/detent repair as well as tidying up the harness wiring to the VEMS
The shop:
Day 1:
Spent Saturday pulling the motor which almost got bad.
This gem sucks...any recommendations on a decent hoist that won't break the bank? I wasn't too wild about the harbor freight ones...
Somehow this link made it's way into the guts...started to let go mid-air. that was hopefully the only big oh sh!t moment of the project...
Test fit on a spare block...
Got the head off Sunday night and to the machine shop yesterday.
Not bad for 208k miles me thinks
Was also nice to see I haven't seriously messed up the bottom end while tuning...
More to come...
I use sturdy brass padlocks for the chains, no "oh shit" moments.
Good luck on the build.
IT BEGINS!!!
How much you wanna bet you'll be up and running before me?
PS: My HF hoist that I got for a bag of chips after all of the coupons I found, has served both my engine work and a friend's LS4 Fiero project (who has been removing and inserting his engine on a weekly basis)
Last edited by TheJuggernaut; 07-10-2012 at 06:23 PM.
I would us a Spa turbo instead of the Spal turbo in your parts list
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
This is my goal sir.
Do you have the 2ton? I know the 1-ton doesn't have long enough reach to do anything without pulling the front clip...which I'm not trying to do. I am going to buy a new one, the one listed in the first post is all bent out of whack, it hardly rolls; it's served it's purpose but it's too old now...at one point I had to stand on it to keep it from tipping sideways
I was looking at the block today and seriously contemplated saying screw the MLS and building it right the first time...but I'm impatient and er broke.
I like spal. They make nice fans, I figured I would try their turbo
On a serious note, I had a little progress this evening.
Rebuilt the VANOS and completed my knock off catch can for a whopping $28 total...
Hopefully this makeshift baffling helps.
And the parts pile grows...
Noticed that the crank pulley dampener is all cracked up...Is this thing just rubber coated or does the rubber connect it all together? Anyone know if I need to find one in better shape?
The rubber layer connects the two pieces of the damper that move in opposite directions to offset the torsion in the crank. When the rubber breaks, so does the snout of your crank (or just really stresses the bearings).
If other dampers do not look the same way, then I would look for a replacement. Not sure if the rubber is seperating, or the part cracking is some flashing from manufacturing.
I think mine's just the 1 ton, it was plenty to do everything. Look out for coupons for HF on slickdeals, you can get them for like half price. Example from 2011
http://slickdeals.net/forums/attachm...4&d=1313855732
Great to see you're finally getting under way Jeff!
any updates?
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