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Thread: E34 540i/6 Turbo Build - The game is on.

  1. #51
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    Looks good.

    Your motor mounts could be more ghetto, coulda used particle board.
    e46 m3, some 740 sport shorts, F30h, LR3 and a 540it

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    I too have thought about going this route on my 540. I wondered if it would be possible to run the crossover pipe above the bell housing behind the heads. It really doesn't need to be huge since you'd probably want the velocity and the space there is minimal. with the coolant tank out of the the way there is ample room back there and i suppose you could run the drivers bank exhaust pipe along side the passenger head. Obviously you'd need some very well placed heat shields. with the crossover pipe under the car My biggest concern would be how low it hangs. I've had low cars and nothing ruins your high from beating an 03 cobra than slamming your downpipe on a dip in a parking lot and cracking a manifold....not that thats happened or anything.

    Another question, have you considered running the turbo with the compressor inlet facing the passenger fender? I think that would un-kink the exhaust pipe routing. The downpipe would be tricky.

    Also, what about using an M62 remote oil filter housing? That might free up some space for the exhaust to come out of the front on the driver side.

    This is interesting, and i can't wait to see how it turns out.

    -Eric
    Last edited by MazDuh; 07-07-2012 at 10:12 AM.

    2 E34s. 1 E36. 3 Mx-6, 2 626, 06 Trailblazer SS, '73 Vette, 5VZ 4runner, and one insanely screwed up property tax bill each year.

  3. #53
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    What? On stock internals? It's going to blow. Soon.
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  4. #54
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    What? On stock internals? It's going to blow. Soon.


    Your motor mounts could be more ghetto, coulda used particle board.
    ORRRRR a can of grape juice on each side. :P
    Last edited by Shoomakan; 07-07-2012 at 05:50 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    1992 BMW 850i/6speed. Stock as stock can be.


  5. #55
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    Not trying to steal the thread,,

    But you are talking about injector size,,

    Well as i have dynoed my B10 BT ,, and made 385 hp and 410 lbs to the wheels ,, @ 1.0 bar ,,, 14.5 psi and my tuner ((Mr-X)) said it was ok with the injectors as OE and the are 380 cc or close to 36 lbs+ ,, maby they are almost maxed out ,, but anyway ,,

    after engine rebuild the car is a lot stronger when pulling

    i have a set of 440 cc ((42 lbs)) and maby i should put them in and have the car remapped
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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by MazDuh View Post
    subscribed!

    I too have thought about going this route on my 540. I wondered if it would be possible to run the crossover pipe above the bell housing behind the heads. It really doesn't need to be huge since you'd probably want the velocity and the space there is minimal. with the coolant tank out of the the way there is ample room back there and i suppose you could run the drivers bank exhaust pipe along side the passenger head. Obviously you'd need some very well placed heat shields. with the crossover pipe under the car My biggest concern would be how low it hangs. I've had low cars and nothing ruins your high from beating an 03 cobra than slamming your downpipe on a dip in a parking lot and cracking a manifold....not that thats happened or anything.

    Another question, have you considered running the turbo with the compressor inlet facing the passenger fender? I think that would un-kink the exhaust pipe routing. The downpipe would be tricky.

    Also, what about using an M62 remote oil filter housing? That might free up some space for the exhaust to come out of the front on the driver side.

    This is interesting, and i can't wait to see how it turns out.

    -Eric
    Crossover pipe definetely needs to go under the car. You won't bottom out anything if you run it where I'm going to run it. It's almost centered with the front wheels, so it shouldn't hit bumps, etc.

    I want the turbo facing the front to have an easy downpipe exit. I'll make a 90 degree elbow or coupler and install a filter right behind the headlight.

    M62 oil filter housing would free up the space that is too high, which is not really useable.

    Quote Originally Posted by dme88 View Post
    What? On stock internals? It's going to blow. Soon.
    Thanks for your expertise, LOL. Have you read my first post? Did you not clearly see how much power a stock M60 can handle? If you haven't noticed, all of them have/had stock internals.

    Quote Originally Posted by B10 BITURBO View Post
    Not trying to steal the thread,,

    But you are talking about injector size,,

    Well as i have dynoed my B10 BT ,, and made 385 hp and 410 lbs to the wheels ,, @ 1.0 bar ,,, 14.5 psi and my tuner ((Mr-X)) said it was ok with the injectors as OE and the are 380 cc or close to 36 lbs+ ,, maby they are almost maxed out ,, but anyway ,,

    after engine rebuild the car is a lot stronger when pulling

    i have a set of 440 cc ((42 lbs)) and maby i should put them in and have the car remapped
    As long as you're not after more power and within safe duty cycle right now, I wouldn't change them.
    If you wanted to upgrade in the future, running a larger injector has no negative effects. You can always decrease fuel from a large injector. As long as you're running a decent sized injector, and not an extremely large injector that will have horrible idle/part throttle.
    Last edited by DUDMD; 07-08-2012 at 06:44 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  7. #57
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    im subscribed!

  8. #58
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    Any reason you aren't going to run a more modern injector, like an ID/Bosch EV14 style?

    Can't wait to see how this turns out!

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by GnarMachine View Post
    Any reason you aren't going to run a more modern injector, like an ID/Bosch EV14 style?

    Can't wait to see how this turns out!
    If I find a good deal on a set, I would love to. I might still get them, since I really like the ID/EV14 injectors. I'm also thinking of getting some ARP Head Studs to keep the headgasket together longer. I'll probably just sell both of my sets of injectors, and add little more on top to get some ev14 injectors now. Looks like a set of 8 can be had just over $500 which isn't too bad.
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  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDMD View Post
    If I find a good deal on a set, I would love to. I might still get them, since I really like the ID/EV14 injectors. I'm also thinking of getting some ARP Head Studs to keep the headgasket together longer. I'll probably just sell both of my sets of injectors, and add little more on top to get some ev14 injectors now. Looks like a set of 8 can be had just over $500 which isn't too bad.
    Definitely do the ARP studs, they'll hold much better than stock, especially if you're turning up the boost. They're cheap insurance.

    The IDs will be worth it IMO, especially since they'll idle like stock and let the M60 retain its awesome smoothness where a lot of injectors will simply ruin the drivability.

  11. #61
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    Don't know if its been said yet, but Dinan's e34 race car is turbocharged on relatively stock internals...
    There was some swedish or dutch? forum I was on that had a couple guys running nearly 1000hp on the bottom end, with only new pistons and O-Ringed the block using some piano wire.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tulok View Post
    Don't know if its been said yet, but Dinan's e34 race car is turbocharged on relatively stock internals...
    There was some swedish or dutch? forum I was on that had a couple guys running nearly 1000hp on the bottom end, with only new pistons and O-Ringed the block using some piano wire.
    When I blow the headgasket, I'm thinking of just o-ringing the block and keep running the same motor or upgrade to an M62 if the entire engine blows, such as a rod or a melted piston.
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  13. #63
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    I'm thinking of just o-ringing the block
    What does this mean?

    Nothing should fry the engine besides a bad tune, which I highly doubt would occur from you. Speaking of which, check your PM in a couple of minutes.
    1992 BMW 850i/6speed. Stock as stock can be.


  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoomakan View Post
    What does this mean?

    Nothing should fry the engine besides a bad tune, which I highly doubt would occur from you. Speaking of which, check your PM in a couple of minutes.
    O-ringing a block refers to carving a small groove around the outside of the cylinder bore, and putting a 'ring' of hard wire there to help the headgasket seal better. The 'o-ring' bites into the gasket harder than the normal clamping force, making the seal better for those high cylinder pressure applications, like moderate to high levels of boost. O-ringing is also usually done with a solid copper head gasket, but I believe I've seen someone do it with an MLS type also, though I'm not positive right now. Google has more info if you're still curious.

    Fox


  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoomakan View Post
    What does this mean?

    Nothing should fry the engine besides a bad tune, which I highly doubt would occur from you. Speaking of which, check your PM in a couple of minutes.
    A clogged injector, a vacuum leak or other little issues can melt pistons, break rods, and blow headgaskets. That's why I want my injectors to be flow matched and I'll pressurize the entire turbo system to check for any leaks.
    Fuel pressure, boost, and egt, wideband o2 gauges are all going to be in the car to keep an eye on these vital readings.
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  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoomakan View Post
    Nothing should fry the engine besides a bad tune
    Too much torque will do it. Which is a real possibility on a motor like the M60. A good tune is essential, but I'd bet anything over 600wtq will break the motor, especially since it's not a brand new block.

  17. #67
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    Exactly what I want to do to mine. Subscribed!!

  18. #68
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    7/9/2012 Update:
    Shipped the motor and tranny mounts back to manufacturer, replacing these 80A engine for 95A mounts. Transmission mounts are going to stay at 80A, just need them in the correct height. They claim that 500-600wtq won't rip them apart, I'll put them to the test. Hoping to get them this week to continue this build..

    Blow off valve came in the mail today. Same side intercooler, second walbro, and 2 walbro install kits should show up this week.

    Did some cleaning in the bay, it's more pleasant to work in now. I still have to clean the engine itself some more. Moved some of the wiring out of the way in the passenger front corner. Cleaner look and less stuff in the way.





    Quote Originally Posted by GnarMachine View Post
    Too much torque will do it. Which is a real possibility on a motor like the M60. A good tune is essential, but I'd bet anything over 600wtq will break the motor, especially since it's not a brand new block.
    Too much torque can snap a rod or the crank, that's about it. Not counting clutch, gears, driveshaft, diff and axles.

    The motor will handle over 600wtq, look at this dyno graph.
    818nm = 603 ft lbs of torque, at the wheels.
    [ame]http://youtu.be/cBz54I6dwaA?t=35s[/ame]

    Intercooler showed up today, did a quick test fit to see if it's the proper size.
    It's exactly what I wanted. Just have to cut off the ground strap stud on the frame rail, it's not letting the radiator move a little bit further back.





    Last edited by DUDMD; 07-10-2012 at 03:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  19. #69
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    Haven't touched the car since intercooler arrived.
    Still waiting on new motor mounts to come in before I can do anything else in the engine bay.

    I did get both walbro fuel pumps, fuel pumps install kits last week. I already have had the 750iL hanger for a while now. This week I might get the fuel pump system installed, wired up and plumbed.

    Bought a DTA S80 standalone today also, it's going to replace my 034EFI Stage 2c that I was going to originally use (my audi friend wants it for his built A4). I like the DTA a lot more, especially with built-in traction control. The factory ASC+T system is now going to be deleted from my car, since it would be just an extra couple of pounds taking up space in the engine bay.

    I also received my stainless tee's for the passenger side turbo manifold. Stainless o2 bung and EGT bung also came in last week. I have all the parts needed for the manifold build to begin, just need motor mounts to position the engine correctly.

    Last edited by DUDMD; 07-17-2012 at 01:21 AM.
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  20. #70
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    What fans are u planing on using?

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by xkaharianx
    What fans are u planing on using?
    eBay fans for now, never had an issue with them.
    2 12" fans on the intercooler, the ECU will activate them based on coolant temp and if the intake air temps get too hot.

    New motor mounts shipped out today.
    Performance Tuning and EWS Delete for MSS52/MSS54/MSS54HP/MS41/MS42/MS43/ME7.2/M5.2
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  22. #72
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    Nice build

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  23. #73
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    Nice. Hopefully you'll be able to give me some tips on how to get the s80 working properly before I set my car on fire.
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  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by E34nication
    Nice. Hopefully you'll be able to give me some tips on how to get the s80 working properly before I set my car on fire.
    Sure, once I get it running good enough to share the settings
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  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDMD View Post
    eBay fans for now, never had an issue with them.
    2 12" fans on the intercooler, the ECU will activate them based on coolant temp and if the intake air temps get too hot.

    New motor mounts shipped out today.
    No fan on the radiator side? Might have a cooling issue there. With the front end stacked any room for one between the engine and radiator?

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