Looks good. I am wondering and waiting to see how the heat management will be with a stock cooling system and a t3. If my latest cooling system upgrade doesnt keep it cool then i believe my turbo may be the cause
Spent a couple of hours today on the manifold. Going to test fit it on the car now and make sure the turbo sits exactly where I want it, then off to complete it.
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Just did.
More progress on the manifold in the last two days.
Received the exhaust crankcase ventilation kit yesterday, and 15 feet of 16 gauge, 2 conductor shielded wire today. Should be enough to wire up the crank and cam position sensors properly.
Today I worked on the driver's side manifold, it's all done. The hard part is to install it now, that will be quite a challenge. I decided to just mig weld it since I was using factory pieces and it will never be seen other than here anyways.
All what's left to do to the manifold's now is to build the crossover pipe and attach waste gates.
Still have access to the nuts to tighten it down.
Test fit back on the car to make sure it's where I want the turbo to sit and check for clearance.
Testing the turbocharger clearance, just perfectly where I wanted it (yes, it's zip ties holding the turbo in place).
Fenderwell to turbo clearance
Valve cover to turbo clearance
Here's the driver's side manifold, it's not the best thing out there, but is sturdy and will get the job done:
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That is some perfect placement on that turbo flange... WOW!!!
I can't wait to see how you route the crossover pipe and even moreso the downpipe. I'm not sure how the e34s are, but it's really hard to imagine how to fitup a single top/front mount turbo in an e39 540. Kudos to you!
Thanks, I'm sure the e39 setup would be very similar. Your abs pump would Make it a bit harder, but the drivers side work area is a lot larger.Originally Posted by tptrsn
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I knoiw this is a budget build, but anything worth doing is worth doing the right way.
With that said, I would re work that merge to at least have the flow pointed in the direction of the outlet, insdtead of pointing directly at the outlet of the other bank. Given that that side will have a long cross over pipeto the tubo flange, you should have the room to make a nice transition. The way its pictured, its looks like it will have a much harder time flowing in the correct direction compared to the other side. Just something for you to think about. Also, with that layout, it will be more prone to cracking. If you redo it, just TIG it! Your TIG welding is looking better already!
Again I know it's a budget build, but this looks very bad - your left to runners are literally pointing up at the flow of the right two runners. This is... not good at all. You need them to converge.
I know, that looks like it won't flow good at all on the merge of the 2 cylinder pairs. I would love to build a nice clean log or even a mini ram manifold. The problem is I don't even know if I'll be able to install it the way it is right now. I'm not just limited on space, there is no space at all.
Budget isn't really the issue on this one, it's the space. Looking at it now, it looks like I can remove the lower 45 piece for the stock header on the left, then do a 90 to the right and another 90 down after that. That will help a lot with the flow at least.
I gave some though about using a 99 and up 740/540 exhaust manifold on this side. That's when they started using a log over the standard 2 piece tubular. I don't know if it will clear the steering box in the e34, but at least flow would've been more even with the passenger side log. I'm gonna see if I can find one locally to test fit on the car or just reword the one I have now.
Here what it looks like.
Last edited by DUDMD; 10-18-2012 at 03:23 PM.
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I have seen those manifolds on eBay recently.
Have you thought about running the drivers side bank above the tranny bellhousing? I seem to remember there being a good 3 or 4 inches of space if you removed the sound deading.
Are you running electric fans? Maybe in front?
Would rather do it on the bottom.Originally Posted by me78569
Electric fans yes, still not possible to get it out to the front easily without deleting or removing a critical part.
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It looks like if you brought those front (left?) two runners up with a pipe, and then down with a pipe (like two 90's one going up and the other going down) you could bring the merge together cleanly. I think you're going to have whacky reversion with the exhaust the way it is pictured. Ditch that flange there btw, put the flange lower or under the car or use a V-Band.
That's what I was thinking after looking at the pic. I ended up just using it the way it was today. Ported the inside of it as much as possible to allow the best flow possible in its current state. If you look inside of it, its not worse than the tees I used for the other manifold. The flange was at that height for a reason. If it was another inch lower, it would take a few more hours to install the manifold. I wrestled with it for about an hour just getting in there to sit on the studs today. This was after raising the motor about 4" from it's original height. Used copper spray on the gaskets, torqued it down. Don't want to remove it or touch that driver's manifold again.Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5
Vband would be nice, but I wasn't having much luck sourcing vbands that I liked. I prefer stepped vband flanges, as they tends to leak less, even if warped a little.
I have started on the crossover pipe, almost done with it actually, and then it started to rain. Done for the day. The clearance came out just perfect, right under the upper oil pan, but above the steering linkage and thrust arm subframe. Never though it would work in there before until today.
Driver's manifold to crossover pipe connection, steering wheel is dead center, that's as closest as the steering components will be to the manifold. Turning the wheel in either direction moves steering parts away from the manifold:
Passenger side crossover pipe entering back up:
Last edited by DUDMD; 10-18-2012 at 08:48 PM.
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Good lord, that is sweet! You do some serious work. This is exciting as hell!!!
Something like this is what they are saying and it would be well worth the time to doA909B688-02EE-455F-B4F1-EC8F94273612-10428-000005441B36FBE0.jpg
Yes understood that. Good quick photoshop though. For now it will stay as is, if I have to build another motor for it later, ill try another manifold in there.Originally Posted by lughed
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Here's what I am talking about - it'd make a world of difference and you'd need two schedule pipes to do it.
m60merge by Jon Kensy, on Flickr
Also the trick to v-band clamps is to weld them with the flanges clamps together. Tack them in place, then when you go to do a full pass, make sure the clamp is installed and tight around the flange. This will transfer heat to both clamps and if they try to warp the clamp is holding them, and if the clamp can't keep them totally flat, then they warp together and fit perfect.
Thanks for the advice. My exhaust is going to be done as a 3 piece setup, using 3" vbands.Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5
Would you recommend I drill and tap a 3/8" aluminum plate for vacuum/boost connection, or should I buy weld in bungs? I assume 3/8" is plenty thick to be a strong tap for barbed fittings.
I'll be deleting the PCV plate at the back of the manifold, since it will no longer function. Exhaust crankcase setup is replacing it.
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i pressed fittings in a 1/8" plate and vent to atmosphere since it has a good oil scavenger built in
Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5
This plate in the back of the manifold. There's a large diaphram in that circle that rips and fails on m60. Would rather take an entire plate to delete and not have issues back there.
Last edited by DUDMD; 10-23-2012 at 07:35 PM.
Performance Tuning and EWS Delete for MSS52/MSS54/MSS54HP/MS41/MS42/MS43/ME7.2/M5.2
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Last edited by tptrsn; 10-24-2012 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Just 1.5" ID SCH10 pipe. It's actually a prefect fit between the inner and out layer. Nice and easy lap joint weld.Originally Posted by tptrsn
Performance Tuning and EWS Delete for MSS52/MSS54/MSS54HP/MS41/MS42/MS43/ME7.2/M5.2
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