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Thread: 5 speed auto (A5S 310Z)

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    1996 E36 323i

    5 speed auto (A5S 310Z)

    G'day everyone,

    This transmission slips badly in 1st, 2nd and reverse. Everything else works as it should.

    Does anyone have any ideas on which component might be at fault (valve body, pressure regulator, solenoid.....)?

    I have a schematic and "brake G" seems to control 1st, 2nd and reverse. What controls the pressure on brake G?

    I'll replace the fluid and see what happens but it would be nice to know what the problem is. I known these transmissions are made by Bavarian magicians deep in the forest but I'm not going to put a new transmission in it just because I don't understand how it works.

  2. #2
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    these transmissions are not made by BMW but by ZF.
    First of all make a filter and fluid change.
    https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...+transmissions
    when you have the fluid out, check for burnt smell and the color. In case no burnt smeel and the fluid is clear, filter and fluid change might be enough.

    Troubleshooting on automatic transmission A5S 310Z http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/E38_Aut...ion_Faults.pdf

    Transmission problems reported A5S 310Z (5HP18)
    The A5S 310Z automatic transmission has been further improved in terms of both transmission design and software. Whenever irregularities occur on the above transmission, we would ask you to proceed in accordance with the advice in Enclosures 1 to 6 to enable diagnosis and remedial action to be completed rapidly. This Service Information bulletin supplements previous SI bulletins and relates to the following list of vehicle/transmission combinations. The transmission is assigned to the vehicle by means of the ZF parts list number (refer to transmission type plate).
    affected vehicle
    320iA, 520iA, 325iA, 525iA/ixA with M50 engine (incl. touring)
    since prod. date 09/92 with automatic transmission
    ZF parts list no.
    1056 000 081 for 2.0 l
    1056 000 082 for 2.5 l
    1056 020 012 for 4WD models refer to Enclosure 1
    325tdsA with automatic transmission
    ZF parts list no.: 1056 000 086 refer to Enclosure 2 - 525tdsA incl. touring since prod. date 09/92 with automatic transmission
    ZF parts list no.: 1056 000 086 / 093 refer to Enclosure 3 - 530iA since prod. date 09/93 (vehicles with AGS) with automatic transmission
    ZF parts list no.: 1056 000 088 refer to Enclosure 4 - 530iA up to prod. date 08/93 (vehicles without AGS) and
    730iA - E32 with automatic transmission
    ZF parts list no.: 1056 000 087 /088 refer to Enclosure 5 - 730iA - E38 since volume production launch with automatic transmission
    ZF parts list no.: 1056 000 092 refer to Enclosure 6
    procedure
    Enclosure 1 - 6 Complaints/solutions for each vehicle type
    Enclosure 7 Tools required for replacing the EPROM
    Enclosure 8 Instructions for replacing the EPROM
    Enclosure 9 Note on shift unit replacement
    Notes: Before the action described in this Service Information bulletin is implemented, always
    perform the following checks first: - With complaints regarding shift comfort and emergency program:
    Interrogate error memory in EGS and DME/DDE and print out.
    Ensure that battery voltage is > 9.4 volts at time of reading. - In addition to problems in conjunction with gear engagement or manual shifts using selector lever:
    Check the gearshift cable adjustment (refer to Repair Instructions) and idle speed
    Establish control unit adaptation level on vehicle - Interrogate DME hardware number and EGS data status/software number with DIS BMW Service Tester or MoDiC.
    - DME hardware number and EGS data status/software number are located on DME
    and EGS identification page presented when you enter the relevant diagnosis system. Replace hydraulic shift unit - Before installing the hydraulic shift unit, first check whether the shift unit centring pin has been fitted to the transmission housing. Refer to Enclosure 9 Parts: The required parts are available through the usual parts distribution channels. Refer to the relevant Enclosure (1 - 6) for details of the part designations and part numbers.
    http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/5_se..._310z_(5hp18)/


    resistance measurement of the valves https://web.archive.org/web/20131020...ion%20info.pdf
    Last edited by shogun; 03-28-2023 at 10:41 AM. Reason: link fixed
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
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    1996 E36 323i
    Thank you for that. So they're ZF boxes? I know there is a lot of discussion about the fluid type but what do people use?
    Last edited by shogun; 02-18-2019 at 09:21 PM. Reason: unnessary quotes removed

  4. #4
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    Sweden
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    www.garaget.org/skillz
    Yes, ZF.

    I would think that one of the clutches is going bad, as 1st 2nd is what engages the reverse on that box. So if 1st or 2nd gear goes out or slipps reverse will either not work or slip as well.

    Not engaging is a stuck valve, slipping is most likely a bad clutch in there. You can PM Whiskychaser and ask him more about this, he's an old ZF automatic expert i'd say, very wise. Say that i told you to contact him about it
    Last edited by M Quick; 07-09-2012 at 12:01 AM.

  5. #5
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    1996 E36 323i
    The person I bought the car off told me that the transmission was fine then the car sat for about 6 months and the slipping started as soon as the car was restarted after that 6 month period. That says to me that the mechanical components are OK as mechanical parts tend to get worse over time not just all of a sudden and not coincidentally after a long lay up period. Does that seem reasonable?

    I bought an older Mercedes Benz for cheap once because it had next to no drive from the trans, but it had a little grab, band slippage I thought. Got it home, pulled the valve body out, soaked it in diesel for a day, aggitated it, soaked in in ATF for another day then reinstalled it. All fixed. I drove that car for 2 years.

    I will contact Whiskeychaser, thanks.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    1996 E36 323i
    Update....

    Damm German Torana (older Aussies amongst us might understand that reference).

    The auto is a green tag 5HP18.

    Last week I dropped the pan and changed the fluid to Penrite full synthetic. No metal shavings or anything bad in the pan, just VERY dirty fluid, and refilled and test drove. No change. Still slipped badly in first, second and reverse and jumps into limp mode if it slips too much.

    Yesterday I drained it again and removed the VB. Thanks to a man called Eurodavid and his post in another forum, I followed his instructions, methodically. I have the VB on my work bench in 3 main parts, the upper front VB, the main VB and the solonoid body. I'm soaking the upper front and main in diesel (cringe, yes, but diesel is oil, it shouldn't harm anything and I will clean as much off as I can before reinstallation and diesel has worked for me in the past) and I'm trying to dislodge any blockages which I am 90% sure is the problem. I would hazzard a guess that the oil had never been changed during the car's 240,000 k's. The slipping started immediately after the car sat for 6 months so I reckon sediement in the dirty trans oil settled in a galley, orafice or tube during that 6 month lay up and blocked something causing this problem. Anyway, a lot of gunk came out of the VB's, the diesel is working and cleaning it out. I'm using compressed air to blow the gunk out too.

    Tonight I'll blow out more gunk, reassemble, get as much diesel out and off it as I can, run some AFT through it on the bench to clean out more diesel and reassemble and install. If that fixes it or makes it better I will immediately drain once more so any diesel contamination (and potential damage) is minimised, put in a new filter and then drive and enjoy this cheap but gorgeous Comos Schwartz 328i.

    Fingers crossed.

    Bloody German Torana.

  7. #7
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    1998 e36
    Don't waste your time, clutches are worn out. Do the whole rebuilt.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hakentt View Post
    Don't waste your time, clutches are worn out. Do the whole rebuilt.

    Really? Why do you say that?

  9. #9
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    so, did the valve body cleaning help?
    Just want to know the result, so that we know the solution, thanks
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  10. #10
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    2012 bmw m3
    he's an old ZF automatic expert i'd say, very wise.
    Last edited by mdnuojame; 12-23-2012 at 09:08 PM.

  11. #11
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    Starship Enterprise
    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    so, did the valve body cleaning help?
    Just want to know the result, so that we know the solution, thanks

    Hi Shogun,

    Your earlier links on the 5hp18's problems seem to be dead. I am referring to the spaghetticoder links. Could you assist please ? Thanks.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    so, did the valve body cleaning help?
    Just want to know the result, so that we know the solution, thanks
    Long time in replying. :-)

    The problem ended up being a cup shaped spring, I cant remember exactly (over 4 years ago and the car is long gone now), but it would have been a PITA to replace so I bought a second hand transmission for $700 and replaced the whole thing.

    Micko66

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the feedback, always good to get a reply what went wrong. Probably one of the springs in the valve body, very rare, so far experienced that maybe 2-3 times in the past 10 years, but on 4HP24.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  14. #14
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    No, it wasn't a spring in the valve body. I had that valve body apart in my kitchen and rebuilt it piece by piece. It was something deeper inside that I wasn't prepared to repair.

    For the life of me I can't remember the name of it now. I had all the exploded diagrams back then and with the help of a kind gentleman from the UK we nutted it out.

    Micko

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micko66 View Post
    No, it wasn't a spring in the valve body. I had that valve body apart in my kitchen and rebuilt it piece by piece. It was something deeper inside that I wasn't prepared to repair. For the life of me I can't remember the name of it now. I had all the exploded diagrams back then and with the help of a kind gentleman from the UK we nutted it out. Micko
    That is probably whiskychaser, I will ask him if he remembers

    Maybe in here
    http://www.europeantransmissions.com...MWtechinfo.htm
    5 HP18 NO move or delay
    ZF 5 HP18 Binding up
    Last edited by shogun; 02-23-2017 at 11:19 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  16. #16
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    Yeah, that's him. He was very helpful.

    From memory (and my memory is getting old) the problem was a cup shaped spring that sat between 2 sets of planetary gears.

    The transmission slipped badly in reverse, first and second but ran fine in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Winter mode made it just drive-able.

  17. #17
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    '00 330i Sprt '92 525i
    Wow! That's going back a bit. Glad to have been of help but I have to say that I don't recall the details either. If a cup spring went in the G clutch, you would get those symptoms and FWIW, it would look something like this. The other - now toothless - item is what is left of the F drum.

  18. #18
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    G'day buddy,

    Long time no hear. Yes, that was the offending part.

    Again, thanks for your help those years ago.

    I bought a second hand transmission and fitted it. The car went great after that, then a man made me an offer on that car that I couldn't refuse. :-)

    Micko

  19. #19
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    Detailed DIY with plenty of pics ZF5HP18 valve body overhaul http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/131...aul-DIY-Part-1
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  20. #20
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    Link update , valve body overhaul ZF 5HP18 https://web.archive.org/web/20150918...aul-DIY-Part-1

    Trouble shooting, Data, ZF Tech Guide http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Troubl...ch%20Guide.pdf
    Last edited by shogun; 03-27-2022 at 09:23 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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