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Thread: No power to wheels under hard acceleration

  1. #1
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    No power to wheels under hard acceleration

    I have an 88 e30, recently under hard acceleration i am not getting any power to the real wheels, the engine just revs up, if I let off and ease the accelerator back it continues to accelerate fine. I was thinking there might be something going on with the limited slip, it has an e36 M3 limited slip in it, though I might be wrong on this. Any thoughts?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    It really sounds like you just need a new clutch.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

  3. #3
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    I really can't picture any scenarios that would be temporary, other than wheelspin, that would involve the LSD. The diff either transmits power or it doesn't (because internals are fubared), regardless of how much force you're putting into it.

    It doesn't sound as if you've noticed any wheelspin, so the remaining choices are all upstream of the diff (clutch, fuel injection issues, etc).
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  4. #4
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    yea if the rpm just climb under hard accel, or on a hill, without the car moving forward or accelerating then it sounds like you might have a bad clutch.
    1991 BMW 325i(Current Daily) (S52)
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  5. #5
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    dude thats your clutch.


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  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone!

  7. #7
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    Im having the same problem.85 325e 5speed...I was on the highway and noticed when I gave it gas the RPMs dropped.??The next day I took a ride around the block and noticed when I put it in gear release clutch and give it gas the car revs high and barely moves.Whats going on?Do I need a master clutch?Slave?Another member had sad that it might be a bad timing sensor??

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by atxo4 View Post
    Im having the same problem.85 325e 5speed...I was on the highway and noticed when I gave it gas the RPMs dropped.??The next day I took a ride around the block and noticed when I put it in gear release clutch and give it gas the car revs high and barely moves.Whats going on?Do I need a master clutch?Slave?Another member had sad that it might be a bad timing sensor??
    A good clutch test is to get your car rolling ~20MPH and then shove it into 5th gear and gun it. If your engine revs up and you don't go anywhere, you need a new clutch. If it just bogs down and RPM's don't move, you're fine.


    2015 M235i 6MT

  9. #9
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    I had the same problem...until I read the back of my car and it said "318i"

  10. #10
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    I have the same problem BUT mine's an Auto.
    My driveway's steep too so it'll only make it up in reverse

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewsee View Post
    I have the same problem BUT mine's an Auto.
    My driveway's steep too so it'll only make it up in reverse
    You sir, need a new or rebuilt transmission.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

  12. #12
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    uberpanzer is offline 4 banger's RULE!!! BMW CCA Member
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    Or at the very least check your tranny fluid level. Many differences between an auto and a manual in operation, including the auto tranny not engaging gears at all if fluid doesn't get to where it is needed.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrJeremy28 View Post
    I had the same problem...until I read the back of my car and it said "318i"
    That one made my day... Lol hehe.

    I have to say i do have a 318i, and acceleration is notnexactly what it was when i got it. It still moves, but not quite as it used to.
    I did clean my maf, changed the oxygen sensor and etc this year.

    But one thing i know ill need to change is my differential.
    Its leaking oil a bit.

    It might seem like a newb question,
    But what are the "symptoms" of an old differential, a past due one ?

    Thanks in advance

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffff View Post
    It might seem like a newb question,
    But what are the "symptoms" of an old differential, a past due one ?
    A worn differential will be noisy and whine. It will also cause clunk sounds as the torque on the drive shaft quickly changes, like when shifting gears.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrJeremy28 View Post
    I had the same problem...until I read the back of my car and it said "318i"
    Sean

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by nike001 View Post
    A good clutch test is to get your car rolling ~20MPH and then shove it into 5th gear and gun it. If your engine revs up and you don't go anywhere, you need a new clutch. If it just bogs down and RPM's don't move, you're fine.
    Sorry to bump old thread but I have the same issue with my 92 e30 that I swapped a m50 in. New clutch onmi e though.


    Did the 5th gear test and it boggs down. What doesthat mean?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyde25 View Post
    Sorry to bump old thread but I have the same issue with my 92 e30 that I swapped a m50 in. New clutch onmi e though.


    Did the 5th gear test and it boggs down. What doesthat mean?
    So when you floor it in say 1st or second gear, it revs up really fast but barely moves? but if you do the the 5th gear test (20mph, quick shift to 5th and floor the gas) it just bogs?
    Either your clutch is just starting to go out or something is seriously wrong in your drivetrain (read, you have an alien drivetrain).

  18. #18
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    Just went out and drove it again. After it was at operating temperature I once again had a ever decrease in power an a smell. Car started to get hot and if I pushed in the clutch car would slow. I pulled over so as not to burn up my fresh swap. Let it cool for 15 and tried to push the car, no joy. All brakes were stuck so I popped out the booster check valve and brakes released.


    I now don't know if the problems are related or not.

  19. #19
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    It sounds like your booster isn't releasing. That could be from a lack of free play between the pedal and the booster, or a fault in the booster.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyde25 View Post
    Just went out and drove it again. After it was at operating temperature I once again had a ever decrease in power an a smell. Car started to get hot and if I pushed in the clutch car would slow. I pulled over so as not to burn up my fresh swap. Let it cool for 15 and tried to push the car, no joy. All brakes were stuck so I popped out the booster check valve and brakes released.

    I now don't know if the problems are related or not.
    So the car wasn't revving up freely, it just seemed like you had a loss of power. That's not the same problem you quoted, but yeah I'd say it's brake related.

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