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Thread: Re-initializing your key, the correct way.

  1. #26
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    Great thread, my wifes key in her e46 sometimes works, sometimes doesn't... is there a way to confirm whether this is a battery issue or is it an initialization problem when the key flat out stops working?

    Are these steps universal for other BMW models? She also has the diamond key (2003 330ci)
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuskiE39 View Post

    Are these steps universal for other BMW models? She also has the diamond key (2003 330ci)
    These steps are valid for the e38/e39/e46/e52/e53 generation of BMWs that have keys that look like the ones in the directions below (that were also in post #9 in this thread).

    TIPS:
    • KL R = ignition position 1
    • make sure ALL doors are CLOSED
    • make sure ALL doors are UNLOCKED
    • only insert the 1st key into the ignition and remove it in STEP 3 BEFORE pressing the buttons
    • start the 2nd/3rd/4th remote key on STEP 3 where you start pushing the buttons
    • ALL remote keys MUST be present during a reinitializing session...any remote key NOT PRESENT will no longer lock/unlock & arm/disarm the vehicle



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  3. #28
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    Been annoyed by a not working key for months now. No idea why it took so long for me to try this. Worked perfectly, the key works again!

  4. #29
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    Quick question. What if i only have one key and it goes wrong?

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortedaman View Post
    Quick question. What if i only have one key and it goes wrong?
    Use the quoted initialization procedure to re-sync it to the car.


    Jeremy

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  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortedaman View Post
    Quick question. What if i only have one key and it goes wrong?
    I can only assume that the last part of your question is what concerns you. To answer your question with a question...what could go wrong?

    When you start the FZV/DWA initialization process (as written in the 1st paragraph of the instruction)...it is just telling the GM to record the key's ID # and set a new rolling code. What can go wrong with that? The only problem you'd have is if you had a 2nd remote key and didn't reinitialize it during the same session. That 2nd key would no longer lock/unlock & arm/disarm the vehicle because the GM would have removed its key ID # from its memory and that 2nd key would no longer have the new rolling code table.

    You can use this procedure to program any BMW remote key (that's on the same frequency as your system) from the e38/e39/e53/e46 era of BMWs...old style & new style keys. So even if something did go wrong with your 1st attempt (which would have to be operator error0...you could insert the car's key again into the ignition to start the procedure...and redo the procedure...and it would take the key's ID # and assign a different rolling code table (again). And if you have another BMW remote key that is on the same frequency...you could program it (up to 3 other keys) to lock/unlock and arm/disarm your car (as long as those remote keys have working batteries insided them that are charged up).

    Just in case some don't know...this procedure has NOTHING to do with the ability to start the vehicle (EWS)...this procedure is for FZV/DWA (central locking & anti-theft alarm siren system) operation. And if you program a remote key that does NOT have the same EWS transponder that has the same ISN as your key...it can be programmed to lock/unlock & arm/disarm your car...BUT WILL NOT START the car.
    Last edited by Qsilver7; 05-25-2016 at 10:14 AM.
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  7. #32
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    WOW! I sure hope this works for me--I replaced the battery in my 540i key and come to find out the "buttons" on the underside of the key are all severely worn down as well so I am replacing that as well... I've seen a few different variations of sequence on this procedure...
    Wish me luck! And thanks for posting!

    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    Here are the instructions on how to reprogram the remote keys that I post at least once every month on one of the e38 or e39 forums that I frequent...and btw...STEP 2 does say "remove the key".



    KL R = ignition position 1





  8. #33
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    Did both keys. Worked fine EXCEPT...trunk button now doesn't work at all.

    Ideas?

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by richmoo View Post
    Did both keys. Worked fine EXCEPT...trunk button now doesn't work at all.

    Ideas?
    The trunk button on the keys? Or the trunk button on the trunk? :
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300kplus View Post
    WOW! I sure hope this works for me--I replaced the battery in my 540i key and come to find out the "buttons" on the underside of the key are all severely worn down as well so I am replacing that as well... I've seen a few different variations of sequence on this procedure...
    Wish me luck! And thanks for posting!
    Tried this procedure and still am not having any luck. The buttons inside the piece of that activate speech function are worn down to nothing. I put a new battery in which is what started this whole thing, and the key barely worked with the failing battery. So I've ordered a new peace with the three buttons I'm going to try that. I'm hoping and praying that with a new battery and a new 3 button rubber piece, it'll be solved...
    Thanks!

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300kplus View Post
    The buttons inside the piece of that activate speech function are worn down to nothing.
    Try saying "Alexa, open the car"

    If that doesn't work, try "Siri" maybe?
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post

    Try saying "Alexa, open the car"

    If that doesn't work, try "Siri" maybe?
    Silly GG, you have to give the commands in German, after re initiating sequence it's default language is German.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mannyf540 View Post

    Silly GG, you have to give the commands in German, after re initiating sequence it's default language is German.
    Hahaha my bad guys-voice texting and in a hurry. The 3 buttons inside the rubber piece that activate the functions by [pressing and releasing] are worn down and non functional...

  14. #39
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    Thanks for all of this, I know at some point I will need to do it all again, and will have this to refer back to

  15. #40
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    Is the key fob supposed to light up when you press any of the buttons before you go through these initialization steps? I am about to now, replace the top of the key fob with a new rubber piece with new "buttons" inside as I'm hoping this will solve my ongoing problem. The process of elimination here is that the lock/unlock button is so worn down that it does not work anymore...
    By far the most difficult problem I've ever encountered since owning my E39 540i... Goodness gracious! UPDATE: Nope, I take that back now--parasitic battery drain. THAT is the most annoying and difficualt problem to date! LOTS of fun! :-)
    Last edited by 300kplus; 02-15-2017 at 12:42 PM.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300kplus View Post
    Is the key fob supposed to light up when you press any of the buttons before you go through these initialization steps? I am about to now, replace the top of the key fob with a new rubber piece with new "buttons" inside as I'm hoping this will solve my ongoing problem. The process of elimination here is that the lock/unlock button is so worn down that it does not work anymore...
    By far the most difficult problem I've ever encountered since owning my E39 540i... Goodness gracious!
    If you have the diamond type key then no red warning lamp

  17. #42
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    Question; how does the initialization process work if you only have one key (bought the car this way)? Is there anything different I need to do in the initialization proces?
    Thanks again!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thanks!

  18. #43
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    Thanks! I finally got my working after replacing the battery but the pressing matter was replacing the internal buttons--I got an after market one as they were so worn down they weren't working and replaced the battery while was in there (it was weak as well) Should be good to go for two years on the battery and after I sell her on the buttons replacement (upper part of the fob)
    Thanks again!

  19. #44
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    Thanks!

  20. #45
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    Note that none of this will work if you have an issue with your door sensors. If the cabin light isn’t coming on when you open the door and the dash “door ajar” indicator isn’t reliable, you’ll need to fix that first. In my case, the fix for that was to replace the driver’s door latch mechanism which contains the solid state door sensors.

  21. #46
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    Back from the archives since there's no point in starting a new thread.
    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    The new style (diamond shaped) key is charged when in the ignition and turned to at least KLR (ignition position 1) or higher. It can take up to 30 hours to recharged a fully discharged key. Or...if you have an electric toothbrush (like a Sonicare) that has an induction battery charger...you can set your remote key on or very close to it and it will recharge the key.
    Has anyone confirmed that an electric toothbrush charger works?
    I assume any original e39 diamond key is going to be past useful lifespan. We ordered new ones for both over the years. The sedan's could be 4 years old and works fine. Makes sense as I use this as a daily most often and it's usually our choice for road trips.Now the touring's is no more than 3 years old for sure and it's operation is intermittent at best. I'm loath to leave the key in the car overnight, even locked up in the garage. Is there any definitive way to tell if the induction ring in the ignition is working properly?
    Last edited by paul p; 01-16-2018 at 11:08 AM.
    Hang up & Drive!
    Jerry .. 85 Toyo MR2 140K .. ( 20V wiring gremlins *grrrr* )
    Björn .. 03 BMW 540i///M 148K .. ( beat up allstar *oof* )
    Gerta .. 03 BMW 540iT&A 151K .. ( chain guide triage *shakes head* )
    Franz .. 96 BMW 318ti 207k .. ( the new, new daily *GRIN* )
    Wendy .. 20 Honda Refrigerator 28k .. ( for the wife and kids, has flappy paddles? *squint* )
    Resistance was Futile...

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  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul p View Post
    ...I'm loath to leave the key in the car overnight, even locked up in the garage. ...
    Just to clarify...ONLY do this if you have a battery charger hooked up to the jump start terminals in the engine bay (or dare I say...directly to the battery). The ignition has to be turned to at least ignition position 1...and if the car isn't hooked up to a battery charger...the battery will be drained by morning...thus the car's battery will be dead plus the key may be permanently damaged.
    Last edited by Qsilver7; 01-16-2018 at 11:11 AM.
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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    Just to clarify...ONLY do this if you have a battery charger hooked up to the jump start terminals in the engine bay (or dare I say...directly to the battery). The ignition has to be turned to at least ignition position 1...and if the car isn't hooked up to a battery charger...the battery will be drained by morning...thus the car's battery will be dead plus the key may be permanently damaged.
    Thanks for the reminder Q. If I leave a car for more than a day in there it's usually on one anyway, certainly the e39s. I left a phone charger in the cig socket in Björn for two days and he needed a jump after that. OTOH teh Sentra can sit in front for a couple of months and barely lose 0.1-0.2V.

    Garage break ins are pretty rampant round here and ours is detached, so the idea of leaving it ready to run like that is something I'd rather not do. Hence my interest in an alternate charging option.
    Last time I was in a Best Buy almost walked out with a charging pad for the phones, but according to the LED on there it wasn't doing the key. *shrugs*

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul p View Post
    Garage break ins are pretty rampant round here and ours is detached, so the idea of leaving it ready to run like that is something I'd rather not do. Hence my interest in an alternate charging option.
    Totally understand...but just one more thought in case you really needed to do this...and that is...if you have the high MID or Nav...then you also have the additional "OBC CODE" feature that can prevent someone that has a key from being able to start the car. You can program a numerical code from 0000-9999 that must be entered correctly before the car can start. After 3 failed attempts to start the car...the alarm and lights will go off. This also works great if you have a significant other that is about to leave you...and knows you love your Bimmer...so they may want to attempt to take the car...or if your teenager is in those "delinquent" years and likes to sneak out of the house at night and cruise around town at night in your Bimmer...even though they have access to the car keys...if they don't know the CODE you entered...they've still been locked out.
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  25. #50
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    Farted around w/ the highMID lock code for 15 seconds and got frustrated.
    Pulling the fuel pump fuse took 5.

    Wifey is kept happy by getting 1st choice for the moment.
    Unless i have a meeting out of town

    As per the other thread we managed to resurrect an old key for this car, so it's clearly an early fail for the 3yo replacement.
    Hang up & Drive!
    Jerry .. 85 Toyo MR2 140K .. ( 20V wiring gremlins *grrrr* )
    Björn .. 03 BMW 540i///M 148K .. ( beat up allstar *oof* )
    Gerta .. 03 BMW 540iT&A 151K .. ( chain guide triage *shakes head* )
    Franz .. 96 BMW 318ti 207k .. ( the new, new daily *GRIN* )
    Wendy .. 20 Honda Refrigerator 28k .. ( for the wife and kids, has flappy paddles? *squint* )
    Resistance was Futile...

    "Now, it takes me three months just to fix a door lock because .. crying babies" - rammstein





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