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Thread: Re-initializing your key, the correct way.

  1. #1
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    Re-initializing your key, the correct way.

    Guys, I was out the other night and I had to grab something out of my car but when I hit the key fob on the way up the driveway, nothing happened. I tried hitting lock, unlock, the trunk button... nothing. The drivers door was unlocked so my friend grabbed the door handle and opened it. The alarm went off, at 1am !!, as I'm frantically hitting the buttons on the key fob. Nothing works still. So I jump in and put the key in the ignition and turn it forward. Alarm was disarmed. So I got out, played with the key a little more, still nothing. I dealt with it for the last 2 days but it's really annoying to me, even my 1989 Iroc-Z had keyless entry when I bought it 12 years ago. So, off to the DIY section I go, I read the DIY's on how to re-program the E39 diamond shaped key and noticed 1 VERY key piece of information was flat out missing.

    Here is how to reprogram your diamond shaped key.

    1) Insert key into the ignition and turn it to the first position, where the drivers info center turns on and a few dummy lights, turn it back off within 5 seconds.
    2) PULL THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. (this step is mentioned no-where except the E46 re-programming instructions)
    3) Press and hold the unlock button, then push the BMW roundel (lock button) 3 times, pausing for about 2 seconds in between each press. Release the unlock button. The doorlocks should now cycle between lock and unlock. Now your key is programmed to your car.
    4) (may not be necessary but I did it and caused no problems) Re-insert the key into the ignition, turn forward to position 1 and back off within 5 seconds to End programming.

    Do all of this within 30 seconds.

    In order to re-program multiple keys, simply grab your 2nd key after step 3, and do the same thing. It should make the locks cycle again between lock and unlock. I do believe that you have to re-insert key #1 into the ignition and turn it to position 1 then back off again to end programming, I don't believe you do it with your 2nd key.

    Please correct me if I am wrong on any of this stuff, but this sequence just worked for me. I was 5 minutes from cutting my key open to replace the battery.

    Good Luck to anyone who had a "dead" key fob, hope this helps.
    Last edited by Black540Msport; 05-30-2012 at 03:47 PM.

  2. #2
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    yeah I had to mess around with this for a little bit to work. After some trial and error I realized that you do need to pull the key out of the ignition.

    Good idea posting it!

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  3. #3
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    And remember also that all the doors have to be closed and unlocked in order for this to work.

  4. #4
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    .

  5. #5
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    bt1911, my doors were not unlocked. All of them were locked in fact. I did notice that now, when I put the car in drive, about 5 seconds down the road, my doorlocks cycle unlock to lock by themselves. They did not used to do this before. Also, when I would turn off the car before the keyfob stopped working, the interior lights would come on, now they don't come on unless I open a door. Odd... probably has something to do with the doors being locked/unlocked. I bet there is a sequence that you can pick and choose options based on what doors are locked/unlocked when you re-program a keyfob.

  6. #6
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    Do you mean hold the central lock button or the unlock on the key itself?

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  7. #7
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    Unlock first... Hold then press center button

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by adjmcloon View Post
    Do you mean hold the central lock button or the unlock on the key itself?
    on the fob.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by adjmcloon View Post
    Do you mean hold the central lock button or the unlock on the key itself?
    Here are the instructions on how to reprogram the remote keys that I post at least once every month on one of the e38 or e39 forums that I frequent...and btw...STEP 2 does say "remove the key".



    KL R = ignition position 1




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  10. #10
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    I just got over some key issue myself. Found out it was the #53 fuse in the trunk by the gas door. Saved me the biggest headache of changing batteries or buying a new key

  11. #11
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    Great help!!

  12. #12
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    Skwisgaar is offline No longer with us ... RIP
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    Here's a video I have bookmarked for when I have to change the battery in a key...



  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skwisgaar View Post
    Here's a video I have bookmarked for when I have to change the battery in a key...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-TI1jc_nbA
    The old style key with the single 2016 battery was designed with an EEPROM to prevent loss of programming when replacing the battery (see the 2nd bullet in 2nd image below). If the 2016 battery goes completely dead...then this may not apply...and you may need to reprogram the key (see #1 under the 2nd bullet in the info below).

    And if you have the "older" old style key that has the two 1220 batteries...this may not apply.



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  14. #14
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    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Cool. Think you meant to post in the other thread but coool.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black540Msport View Post
    Here is how to reprogram your diamond shaped key.

    1) Insert key into the ignition and turn it to the first position, where the drivers info center turns on and a few dummy lights, turn it back off within 5 seconds.
    2) PULL THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. (this step is mentioned no-where except the E46 re-programming instructions)
    3) Press and hold the unlock button, then push the BMW roundel (lock button) 3 times, pausing for about 2 seconds in between each press. Release the unlock button. The doorlocks should now cycle between lock and unlock. Now your key is programmed to your car.
    4) (may not be necessary but I did it and caused no problems) Re-insert the key into the ignition, turn forward to position 1 and back off within 5 seconds to End programming.

    Do all of this within 30 seconds.
    So I just got my E39 a few weeks ago and the keyless entry stopped working. I got the second key to try it and that one didn't work either. I followed these instructions and got the first key to work great, but when I went to program the second key, it doesn't want to work. I don't know if this second key had ever worked before I bought the car since it was given to me on the same ring as the valet key, but the key will lock and arm the alarm if I lock it manually through the driver door. From what I've read, I have the new style key that cannot have the battery changed, and its supposed to charge through the ignition. So I'm hoping that the second key is simply dead, but how do I charge it? Can I just leave it in the ignition for a few hours or does the car have to be running in order to charge the key battery?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MEDEL514 View Post
    So I just got my E39 a few weeks ago and the keyless entry stopped working. I got the second key to try it and that one didn't work either. I followed these instructions and got the first key to work great, but when I went to program the second key, it doesn't want to work. I don't know if this second key had ever worked before I bought the car since it was given to me on the same ring as the valet key, but the key will lock and arm the alarm if I lock it manually through the driver door. From what I've read, I have the new style key that cannot have the battery changed, and its supposed to charge through the ignition. So I'm hoping that the second key is simply dead, but how do I charge it? Can I just leave it in the ignition for a few hours or does the car have to be running in order to charge the key battery?
    Did you do them one right after the other without opening the doors? They have to be done in succession, as I found last night. For key battery information, check out bmwgm5.com. He says the batteries are rarely the problem.

    Just to add something potentially useful to the thread: The speed at which you press the lock button three times matters. If you do it too fast you get nothing.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MEDEL514 View Post
    ...I have the new style key...and its supposed to charge through the ignition...how do I charge it? Can I just leave it in the ignition for a few hours or does the car have to be running in order to charge the key battery?
    The new style (diamond shaped) key is charged when in the ignition and turned to at least KLR (ignition position 1) or higher. It can take up to 30 hours to recharged a fully discharged key.

    If you are going to leave the key in the ignition (turned to KL R) I highly recommend you do this while a battery charger is hooked up to the jump start terminals in the engine bay. You do NOT want the car's battery to die (or discharge) while the remote key is in the ignition. For some reason, this has been known to sometimes completely kill the key (it never returns to working) if the car battery dies while it is in the ignition and the ignition is powered on.

    If you don't have a battery charger, then use the 2nd remote for the next week or so that it can charge while driving around. Or...if you have an electric toothbrush (like a Sonicare) that has an induction battery charger...you can set your remote key on or very close to it and it will recharge the key.

    (see the 3rd bullet as to the length of time it takes to recharge a discharged remote key)

    Last edited by Qsilver7; 01-29-2015 at 10:31 AM.
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  18. #18
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    Good info but...

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  19. #19
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    Well...the old trick of holding the key up to your head (forehead or side of head or chin etc) can affect the wave length of the radio signal transmitted from the remote key in a beneficial way.

    The scientific trick of this is that water affects the RF wavelength...and the human brain is made of approximately 70%-75% water. I guess if you had a bottle of water in your hand...it would work the same way.

    Under normal circumstances...the range of the remote should be about 32.8 ft (10m) from the sides and about 98.4 ft (30 m)...and the aerial is incorporated into the rear glass...so consider the effectiveness of the remote based on how the car is parked in relation to where/when you press the remote button to lock/unlock the vehicle. Personally I don't usually unlock the car from a far distance...like 100 ft. I prefer to wait until I'm much closer to the vehicle...especially in a public parking area where someone else could get into the car before I could if I unlock it from a distance.



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  20. #20
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    I'll have to do some science but I don't think I get, or ever have gotten, anywhere near that range. The chin trick helps, but the range is still poor at best.
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  21. #21
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    My range is good, works from about 25ft away, has worked 100% for the last few months and then several times in about 2 weeks, forgot the initialization and wouldn't work from any range. each time I did the initialization procedure, it worked, for a few days, then acted like an uninitialized key. still started and manually locked. Its been working fine and I know the procedure by now quite well but figured id share when I saw this post. anyone have any ideas?

  22. #22
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    I have a 08 328i BMW can you tell me how to reset my key? Everything is locked

  23. #23
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amk6999 View Post
    I have a 08 328i BMW can you tell me how to reset my key? Everything is locked
    LOL. Yes of course we can. This is totally the best place to post that question.

    #crankysnarkyoldman
    Last edited by geargrinder; 03-14-2015 at 05:01 PM.
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  24. #24
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    I have followed all the steps many times and just get my LED flashing for about 5 seconds, never any locking or unlocking and the key fob still isn't working any suggestions?
    (1999 540i)

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 540ImHigh View Post
    I have followed all the steps many times and just get my LED flashing for about 5 seconds, never any locking or unlocking and the key fob still isn't working any suggestions? (1999 540i)
    where are all your doors closed?

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