Re-initializing your key, the correct way.

[Qsilver7]

Farted around w/ the highMID lock code for 15 seconds and got frustrated.
Pulling the fuel pump fuse took 5.

Hmmm...not sure what caused your frustration...but the procedure for setting OBC code for High MID is:

1. Turn ignition to KL R (CODE can only be set when ignition is in position 1...in fact it only appears in the MID when ignition is in KL R)
2. Press MID's BC button so that the CODE & SET button appear on the far right of the MID's display (see pic below)
   
   
3. press appropriate numbered soft key buttons for the number between 0000-9999 you want to use
4. press SET button
5. turn ignition off

All done. Should take less than 15 seconds.

[paul p]

Hmmm...not sure what caused your frustration...

Probably not having key in position #1. *shrugs* Makes sense that you can't do it w/o the key in, or alternately with the car running.
Didn't want to go back in house for the booklet (should really keep in car), or search on phone.

Considering i'd replaced #9 due to a short in a heated washer jet multiple times recently, pulling the fuel pump 30A was a no brainer.
Not funny that #9 also kills the entire HVAC system, booklet doesn't tell you that.

Just an alternate anti theft trick. Specially useful for those w/o the high MID or uber missing pixels.


BTW
That picture w/ 25mpg has to be either a six cyl, or if a 540, after a downhill run.

[Qsilver7]

BTW
That picture w/ 25mpg has to be either a six cyl, or if a 540, after a downhill run.

LOL...actually, that pic was taken after I had just purchased my '99 540iT it and drove it back home 3 hours. So it was all highway mileage where I had fueled up right off the highway, reset the MPG 1, and headed home.

I have two other pics that are from a very similar situations except it was my e38 (740iL) and I was driving from home to the same city that I purchased the e39 Touring from. It was a average temp day low wind and little traffic:

{after 49 miles averaging70-75 MPH I was getting 24 MPG}



{then after 85 miles averaging 70-75 MPH on same highway little traffic...you can see that I'm getting 24.5 MPG}

[paul p]

LOL...actually, that pic was taken after I had just purchased my '99 540iT it and drove it back home 3 hours. So it was all highway mileage where I had fueled up right off the highway, reset the MPG 1, and headed home.

I have two other pics that are from a very similar situations except it was my e38 (740iL) and I was driving from home to the same city that I purchased the e39 Touring from. It was a average temp day low wind and little traffic:

So 5mph over indicated. Which means doing the limit pretty much due to our optimistic speedos. And do i spy cruise control activated?
If only i had such restraint.
Considering air resistance increases with the square of velocity, happy to see 21-22mpg on pure highway runs.

Question Q7: I'm assuming you've compared OBC mileage to actual calculated miles over gallons consumed.
Is your OBC also optimistic? When i actually do the math after a fill up it only hovers around 20mpg highway. Or did you adjust that factor in the 'hidden' OBC functions.

[geargrinder]

Farted around w/ the highMID lock code for 15 seconds and got frustrated.
Pulling the fuel pump fuse took 5.

Ooops. QS7 already said what I said. Browser refresh fail.

[Qsilver7]

Question Q7: I'm assuming you've compared OBC mileage to actual calculated miles over gallons consumed.
Is your OBC also optimistic? When i actually do the math after a fill up it only hovers around 20mpg highway. Or did you adjust that factor in the 'hidden' OBC functions.

To be honest...I have reset the OBC calculation (OBC TEST 20) but I don't remember if it was on my e38 or e39.

But as you can see in my fuel mileage chart below (for 2017 fuel purchases)...that even when the "actual calculated" (column G) and "OBC MPG display" (column H) are different from each other...when averaged over the course of a year...each column still ends up being pretty close to each other when averaged over the entire year. In fact, if I were to round-up to the closest "0.0"...they'd both be the same...16.4 MPG.

The Nov/2017 "tank miles" differences are to mostly highway miles due to an out of town family emergency that turned into a family loss...so there were multiple out of town trips in November which is mostly highway instead of 99% urban driving the other months represent.

FYI: I didn't start driving the e38 in 2017 until July because I was late to getting around to dismounting the snow tires. Then once I got them swapped over...I couldn't stop driving it until the snow started flying again (still my 1st automotive love).

[paul p]

To be honest...I have reset the OBC calculation (OBC TEST 20) but I don't remember if it was on my e38 or e39.

Age does that. About to hit 1/2 a century myself so, "I can't recall" FtW!
Also, not surprised in the slightest you've got a spreadsheet, or two.
Also #2, sorry for your loss. I hope your someone didn't suffer for long.

But as you can see in my fuel mileage chart below (for 2017 fuel purchases)...that even when the "actual calculated" (column G) and "OBC MPG display" (column H) are different from each other...when averaged over the course of a year...each column still ends up being pretty close to each other when averaged over the entire year. In fact, if I were to round-up to the closest "0.0"...they'd both be the same...16.4 MPG

Rows 9-12 have a notable difference between OBC and calculated. Would fail Grubbs' test for sure, or some measure of detecting outliers.
<10mpg going almost 30mph ave, something ain't right.
Just sayin
W/O correction ya gotta wonder if the OBC MPG is optimistic, like the speedo.

FYI: I didn't start driving the e38 in 2017 until July because I was late to getting around to dismounting the snow tires. Then once I got them swapped over...I couldn't stop driving it until the snow started flying again (still my 1st automotive love).

Totally understand. The e39 is a middling compromise. For a personal driving capsule, make it an e36, preferably a TI. If I want room for more, and to make a visual statement, it's all about the e38. Possibly the best looking Bimmeh evah.
Would love to build one with a 4.6 or even the M62, stick OBV.
Still, note sig comment RE babies. *sigh*
If only we had the time and resources like the boys in VA/NC

[Longshot0512]

I just bought an '03 525i from a neighbor. The key (only one the previous owner had) doesn't lock or unlock the car. I followed all the steps of this thread and still no joy. Do you have any ideas what else could be the problem? At this point I'm thinking the key needs to be replaced and really don't want to pay the dealer for a new one. So last hope is someone has one more thing I can try. Oh, and I checked the fuse in the trunk too. Thanks

[geargrinder]

Was the car not driven for a long time? The battery in the key could be dead. It charges via induction when its in the ignition and the car is running. You can also charge it using a toothbrush charger or other induction charger supposedly. You might try that (or driving the car for 3 hours at a time...) and then try again to program the key, following all the steps described here to a T. If you miss one thing (like opening a door during the process or not removing the key etc.) then it won't complete.

Aside from that it's a really bad idea as a rule of thumb to only have one key for a car anyway, so, you probably want to get another key regardless, however you don't have to get one from a dealer.

The remote-opening function of the key is entirely separate from the "EWS" immobilizer function of the key, however that provides some complications. A new key either has to be pre-programmed for the car (only the dealer can provide this), or, the EWS and key have to be programmed to match each other. That requires taking the EWS out and having a programming tool that can talk to it and write to the blank key. The key is finding somebody who can do them.

There was a user here RocketSturgeon who was making keys for people and programming their "EWS" (immobilizers) to match but I'm not sure he does it anymore? (You can PM him and find out) There are automotive locksmiths who specialize in this sort of thing - however all the automakers immob systems are different so you need completely different set of knowledge and software and hardware to do Audis than BMW's etc. so you need to find a guy who can do this era of BMW keys - specifically knows how to deal with EWS 3.3 setups and has the gear for it.

[MotorMouth93]

I’m glad this got bumped, according to the previous owner of my car neither key had ever worked for keyless entry but one try with the programming method in the op and it works now. I thought I was going to have to buy new keys but I’m glad I don’t.

[JimLev]

RocketSurgeon info here....
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...39-EWS-Removal

Pretty sure he doesn't have the E39 anymore. You can find him over on the E90,91,92,93 forum.

[wagons ho]

I'm glad this thread got bumped. It made me try again.
I've have been down the rabbit hole testing modules, antenna amplifiers, wiring continuity ect.
I bought my new key from the dealer.
It would not initialize, for me, the dealers expert helper, or other experts.
In the mean time, messing with the car, I saw one of those remote battery displays with RF+IR tester. Sure enough, remote works.
So today, I initialize again.
Perfection in 15sec.
Could the dealer sell me an uncharged key? I think so.

[ekimnotrom]

I have a 1997 740i. I just purchased it and when I bought the car the key fob was working. About a week after I bought itit stopped working so I replaced the battery and I tried to reprogram it following the steps better described in your post about doing it the correct way. All I get is when I'm finished programming it the light blinks 10 times. And that is it. I've done the test for a weak battery I have a good battery. it's very frustrating because I can't use it the way I want to. Do you think maybe it might just be an old worn out fob? If anybody has any ideas as to why I get 10 blinking lights or I should say the LED blinks 10 times could you please inform me. Thank you addendum to this message I guess you would call it, is I am new to this form I appreciate the acceptance and I do plan on using it quite a bit. I would. Appreciate it if I'm doing something wrong someone would let me know like I wasn't even sure how to create my own post so I just replied to an existing thread. Anyway I will be asking a few more questions shortly different subject. Thank you again and everyone have a great day

[lundij]

It worked great for my 2002 530i dead key. Thanks

Guys, I was out the other night and I had to grab something out of my car but when I hit the key fob on the way up the driveway, nothing happened. I tried hitting lock, unlock, the trunk button... nothing. The drivers door was unlocked so my friend grabbed the door handle and opened it. The alarm went off, at 1am !!, as I'm frantically hitting the buttons on the key fob. Nothing works still. So I jump in and put the key in the ignition and turn it forward. Alarm was disarmed. So I got out, played with the key a little more, still nothing. I dealt with it for the last 2 days but it's really annoying to me, even my 1989 Iroc-Z had keyless entry when I bought it 12 years ago. So, off to the DIY section I go, I read the DIY's on how to re-program the E39 diamond shaped key and noticed 1 VERY key piece of information was flat out missing.

Here is how to reprogram your diamond shaped key.

1) Insert key into the ignition and turn it to the first position, where the drivers info center turns on and a few dummy lights, turn it back off within 5 seconds.
2) PULL THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. (this step is mentioned no-where except the E46 re-programming instructions)
3) Press and hold the unlock button, then push the BMW roundel (lock button) 3 times, pausing for about 2 seconds in between each press. Release the unlock button. The doorlocks should now cycle between lock and unlock. Now your key is programmed to your car.
4) (may not be necessary but I did it and caused no problems) Re-insert the key into the ignition, turn forward to position 1 and back off within 5 seconds to End programming.

Do all of this within 30 seconds.

In order to re-program multiple keys, simply grab your 2nd key after step 3, and do the same thing. It should make the locks cycle again between lock and unlock. I do believe that you have to re-insert key #1 into the ignition and turn it to position 1 then back off again to end programming, I don't believe you do it with your 2nd key.

Please correct me if I am wrong on any of this stuff, but this sequence just worked for me. I was 5 minutes from cutting my key open to replace the battery.

Good Luck to anyone who had a "dead" key fob, hope this helps.

[srwdc1]

Hello all. New member here, but have been reading for years. Great forum!

I have a "dead key" (diamond shape), and wondering if I can (a) reprogram, or (b) inside battery is dead and I have to cut open the case and re-solder etc etc).

Car is 2005 BMW X3. 110,000 miles. So it's 14+ years old. Plan to keep it several more years. Am loaning it to my son for a couple months this summer

Car came with two Diamond Fobs and one Valet Key. Lost one of the Diamond Fobs years ago.

Used the second Diamond Fob but about five years ago, it stopped opening remotely. Had to hassle with manual lock and unlock.

So got a new key from the dealer ($200) about three years ago, was reprogrammed at dealer. This new key is now sporadic, opens remotely about 75% of the time. Almost all my driving is city-suburb driving, maybe 10% is more than 10 miles at a time. The first key is still dead for remote opening, I use it as backup (but it has no remote functionality).

So.... before giving the car to my son for a few months, I'd like to have two functioning remote Diamond Fobs.

From reading this, I'm thinking of taking my original first key, going through the open-case-insert-and-solder-new-battery approach.

BUT, i wonder if my first key just needs reprogramming, since it hasn't been used in 3 years.

On the other hand, I assume these batteries can't recharge forever, so it's possible 14-yr old batteries just need to be replaced. I worry that purchasing another key from the dealer means it just comes from a warehouse, and it is also 10+ years old, (or whenever they stopped making Diamond Fobs).

So,,, do you guys suggest new-battery-in-old Fob, or reprogramming old Fob, or new-batteries-and-replace-and-reprogram-in-both-Fobs?

Many thanks!!

[LarryBrown]

Regarding the instructions posted by QSilver7 on July 28, 2012 at 3:26pm:

This verbiage does not make sense to me:
"If the keys are not initialized in the same order prior to initialization."
That says that we have to initialize the keys prior to trying to initialize them, which does not make sense. Can you explain what that actually means? I think it's miswritten and should actually say:
"If the keys are not initialized in the same order as they were the previous time they were initialized."

That brings up an additional question, also related to this verbiage:
"Always initialize the keys in the same order."
So what do we do if we didn't know that and we've initialized the keys 10 times in random order? How can we fix it?

KL R = ignition position 1

[/QUOTE]

[Chedley]

Well, to fix it, you re-initialize the keys in the correct sequence.

BTW, nothing bad happens if the keys are not initialized in the same order. They still work and start the car, but their memory settings could be different or wrong. Example: one key would start and set the cabin temp heat to 70, while another would set it to 67...or ??

[krilan5]

hi,

I would need help, I had not cut key HUB58 diamond key (universal 315/433MHz), cut it for my E34.

Original one on the bottom




The diamond new cut



In view of the coronavirus can’t go parents’ home to check frequency, not sure switch to 433 MHz.



Will be any problem with working the key with E34 (1992.10)

Thanks in advance.

[Qsilver7]

hi,

I would need help, I had not cut key HUB58 diamond key (universal 315/433MHz), cut it for my E34.

Original one on the bottom




The diamond new cut



In view of the coronavirus can’t go parents’ home to check frequency, not sure switch to 433 MHz.



Will be any problem with working the key with E34 (1992.10)

Thanks in advance.

They “diamond shaped” remote key will not work with your 1992 e34’s central locking system. You’re not only crossing generations (your e34 is in the same generation as the e31/e32/e34/e36 built between the late 80s-1993) so the remote key system is totally different. Your 2-button e34 remote fob indicates that it transmits an infrared signal...the diamond shaped key uses RF (radio frequency). If you’re in Europe, the RF used on the new style remotes would be 433 MHz.