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The M70 is still installed so I can't take any pics from the M70 heads. But of the M73 without any problem if this would already help. I can do that tomorrow.Originally Posted by Bryson
Last edited by wokke; 05-25-2012 at 02:53 PM.
Member
Wolfe, can't you use a tool like this? http://www.otctools.com/products/lar...ing_compressor to put your valves in?
Mad Scientist
buy / borrow a pneumatic version of the tool Imndeep showed that runs off compressed air... install the valves/springs/keepers using that tool before you put in the rest of the valve train.
The tool you have pictured Wolf is really best utilized in those cases where the head is still in the car and the cylinder is pressurized with air to keep the valves closed. Not the best choice for when the head is already on the bench.
Last edited by cartoonz; 05-25-2012 at 07:13 PM.
Designated Driver
Ahhh...been there done that...looks good. You'll love the results. Bytheway your second chip set works just fine for the m73. The 1st chip for some reason didn't.
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here are some M73 exhaust port pictures. I hope they help.
Member
Thanks Wolf those are perfect! I'll print them out and compare them when I'm rebuilding my engine
2.8 Z3 coupe + 6 speed || 200kW electric 1970 Jaguar XJ6
www.wokke.de
Got my valve removal/installation tool yesterday. Works perfectly. No need for any fancy air powered stuff.
I also pulled one piston yesterday and decided to also replace all bearings. Drives up the cost quite a bit but it'll never be easier to change them than now.
some progress again. Got quite a few bits and pieces back from the galvanizing company. Too bad that most of them will be more or less invisible after the engine is installed.
Last edited by wokke; 05-31-2012 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Today I disassembled head #2 and also pulled out the crankshaft. Main bearings still look excellent (as expected), but the rod bearings definitely need replacement. Looking at those I wonder what they may look like in my currently installed M70.
Member
I agree Wolf ,, the rod-bearing looks used
Sveinbjörn Hrafnsson
E30 CABRIO V12 M70B50 ///
ALPINA B10 BITURBO 346 @ 507
ULTIMA Evolution
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Member
some seriously worn bearings there.
was smart to tear it down and just overhaul it.
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Now I'm looking fopr a company which can supply me with new bearings. I'd hate to pay the stealer's rip off prices. Piston rings I already found at about half the price.
Designated Driver
I had a hell of a time finding rod bearings. Bavarian had em for a good price. http://www.bmrparts.com/
Member
do you know how many miles on this engine? is this typical BMW wear pattern? did you do any measurements on the valve stems? can this wear translate to other engine types, say M60,M62?
www.wokke.de
According to the seller the engine ahs 232.000km on the clock and the condition of the rod bearing proofs it. I had the crankshaft tested yesterday and it's ok. From what I've heard and read, the bearing condition is typical for an engine of that mileage. BMW is also using rather narrow bearings which of course means more stress on them.
I don't know if I would recommend changing the rod bearings after a certain amount of miles. I know people who do but I sold my E32-750iL with close to 400.000km on the clock and it was still running strong. Currently I own an E39-523i touring with about 325.000km and it also has no engine issues at all.
Member
Those mains look perfect to me which is good to hear as I'm running an M73 with around 240,000km on it now. Those big end bearings need replacing but from your pictures it doesn't look as if they've actually worn through to the bearing backing - good idea to strip the engine and find out now rather than have them fail.
As a matter of interest, what do BMW want for a set of mains/big end shells these days?
www.wokke.de
Correct, mains are perfect while the rod bearings are not "totaled" but it would be stupid to not replace them.
No clue what those bearings cost in the US from the stealer. But for sure as always way overprized.
Member
Correct, mains are perfect while the rod bearings are not "totaled" but it would be stupid to not replace them.
No clue what those bearings cost in the US from the stealer. But for sure as always way overprized.
It was just a matter of interest, not important.
I recently overhauled the V8 engine on my Land Rover Range Rover 4.6. The mains were totally destroyed and the big ends not far behind. I had a 10/10 over size crank regrind, fortunately the crank was still perfectly straight and had never been previously reground. New bearings which were Federal Mogul were a bit difficult to find but I managed in the end and the price was decent. the Rangie is running very smoothly now :-)
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I've got my engine stand yesterday. This will make the job a lot easier.
Last edited by wokke; 06-06-2012 at 05:20 AM.
Member
Could you count on that stand? Back in the days when I did bearings to my 2.9 BOA Cossie engine I couldn't leave it like that over night.
Sick Puppy Motorwerks
Looks great - can't wait for the finished product! This might just be a future SPM project as well... hmmmm.
By the way, you did realize that you number the cylinders backwards? Or was this engine from a UK car??
'93 850Ci - Mineralweiß Metallic
2001 740iL - Titansilber
ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiß III
...the price of cool ain't cheap!
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Survived the 2nd night now
It's kind of fun doing it. And if you have the possibility to media blast (preferably your own gear of course) it isn't that difficult either.Looks great - can't wait for the finished product! This might just be a future SPM project as well... hmmmm.
By the way, you did realize that you number the cylinders backwards? Or was this engine from a UK car??
I quite honestly didn't even think about numbering the pistons/cylinders correctly. Important to me is just that the pisatons go into the corresponding cylinder when I reassemble the engine.
BTW, I did some valve cleaning two days ago:
Last edited by wokke; 06-07-2012 at 02:23 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Member
It depends on the quality of the engine stand.
We have had a chevy 350 missing only the carb, sitting on a stand since 1983. Has gone through two moves as well. Never an issue.
Member
Wolf - what type of blasting media do you use - I am thinking of getting a small cabinet.
www.wokke.de
various stuff actually. In my large cabin I'm using carborundum for rusty parts like axle bits.
Aluminium parts and everything where I want less abrasive treatment I use my small cabin with glass pearls.
Before you get yourself a cabin make sure you have a compressor which supplies enough air. These standard "hobby units" are definitely not geared for it. I have wrecked 3 compressors before I finally got a professional one (for free) with 1800l/min
Member
Thanks Wolf. Your project is looking great - as clean as your valves are, you should sell them for art!
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