Need someone to point me in the right direction for about 20ft of pressure hosing....

[AvusBlau//M3]

I was going to go with transmission pressure hosing from a local auto parts store but they want like $7 ft. I figured if thats the case Im better off going with a reinforced type of hosing at that price.

Im not even sure if I really need 20ft but figured cant hurt to get more than worry about having to little. Just out of curiousity does anyone know about how much hosing they used to mount there oil cooler give and take and RMS aftercooler? Also I believe Im needing -10 AN (5/8) hosing for my aftercooler as well right?

So anyways Im trying to figure out if anyone can point me in the right direction for reasonable priced hosing. Im not wanting to go with steel braided and would like to go as stock looking as possible.

Thanks in advance!

[dinanstu]

I buy hoses from a wholesale distributor. If you have a friend who works in any manufacturing industry or heavy equipment, they'll have an account with a local shop and you can save huge.
Check out local distributors on the yellow pages, give them a call and start shopping.
if you were here, I'd set you up!

[5mall5nail5]

Not real sure what you're looking for. Nylon braid hose? Typical braided hosing, nylon or stainless, is expensive. That's why you see guys with $1500 worth of fuel lines and fittings.

Earls pro-lite is $10 a ft in -10

Earls Push-On in 5/8 is $5 a foot

Earls Ultra-Flex is $37 a ft


We need more info, but pressure rated fuel and oil hose is NOT cheap. Especially not in -10AN.

[JamesM3M5]

Trans cooler is low pressure - you only need quality hose, not high pressure hose. If you're making an ENGINE oil cooler, you need the good stuff. Depends on the manner of your oil path, but you can easily do the oil cooler with 12ft. Aeroquip push-on hose is less abrasive and weighs less than stainless braid. You still need to ensure nothing cuts/wears on it, but it's great stuff!

[someguy2800]

Summit racing has their own brand of AN hose, both braided and pushlok and fittings on sale right now. They have 20 feet of braided stainless -10 for $103. Their non braided hose is even cheaper. I just bought 30 feet of stainless -8 for like $115 and a ton of fittings. I also have Earl's and Russel hose and fittings, and for my money I can't tell the difference. I've been using their an hose and fittings for about 5 years. Good stuff.

[AvusBlau//M3]

I buy hoses from a wholesale distributor. If you have a friend who works in any manufacturing industry or heavy equipment, they'll have an account with a local shop and you can save huge.
Check out local distributors on the yellow pages, give them a call and start shopping.
if you were here, I'd set you up!

Yea I tried looking for a local wholesaler but even they are expensive so I may be better just purchasing online. Ill probably have more of an option as well. Thanks for the willingness to help!

Not real sure what you're looking for. Nylon braid hose? Typical braided hosing, nylon or stainless, is expensive. That's why you see guys with $1500 worth of fuel lines and fittings.

Earls pro-lite is $10 a ft in -10

Earls Push-On in 5/8 is $5 a foot

Earls Ultra-Flex is $37 a ft


We need more info, but pressure rated fuel and oil hose is NOT cheap. Especially not in -10AN.

Im still debating on type but nylon braided was one of the options. Im basically needing hosing for my oil cooler and my RMS aftercooler. What type of hosing should I go with?

Trans cooler is low pressure - you only need quality hose, not high pressure hose. If you're making an ENGINE oil cooler, you need the good stuff. Depends on the manner of your oil path, but you can easily do the oil cooler with 12ft. Aeroquip push-on hose is less abrasive and weighs less than stainless braid. You still need to ensure nothing cuts/wears on it, but it's great stuff!

Im mounting a setrab cooler in the middle of the kidney grills and Im installing the euro oil housing so Im thinking 8ft should be plenty. So Ill probably go with the better hosing for that.

As for the RMS aftercooler Im thinking I can probably get away with regular hosing. Is the RMS lines 5/8 as well?

Summit racing has their own brand of AN hose, both braided and pushlok and fittings on sale right now. They have 20 feet of braided stainless -10 for $103. Their non braided hose is even cheaper. I just bought 30 feet of stainless -8 for like $115 and a ton of fittings. I also have Earl's and Russel hose and fittings, and for my money I can't tell the difference. I've been using their an hose and fittings for about 5 years. Good stuff.

Thanks for the info! Summit is one place I was looking at just wanted to see if there was anywhere else that was cheaper? Anyone know how good jegs is compared to summit?

[pbonsalb]

My oil cooler behind the kidney grilles will require about 7 feet of hose. I am using an S54 housing with ports rather than an adapter cap, but would not expect an adapter cap to add more than another foot or so. A 10 foot roll would do it unless maybe you have a high mount water/air heat exchanger and will be mounting the oil cooler below the bumper. I bought Aeroquip rubber covered -10 AN or 5/8 pushlok hose and fittings, since I do not feel I need braided steel covered hose and fittings for my use. Earls, Summit, Jegs, Aeroquip, Parker, Fragola, and others all sell this stuff.

My aftercooler used 3/4 hose, not 5/8. I used heater hose for that since it is carrying coolant. Heater hose is widely available and cheap.

[JamesM3M5]

Aftercooler hose is low pressure - and IIRC is 5/8" on the RMS setup, but I could be wrong. You can use heater hose from any auto supply store or McMaster Carr sells nice blue outside / orange inside silicone high temp heater hose. It's a bit thick, but very flexible. Just a touch of coolant and the rest distilled water, or a small portion of a bottle of MoCool/Water Wetter and distilled if you never have a danger of freezing in your area.

[AvusBlau//M3]

My oil cooler behind the kidney grilles will require about 7 feet of hose. I am using an S54 housing with ports rather than an adapter cap, but would not expect an adapter cap to add more than another foot or so. A 10 foot roll would do it unless maybe you have a high mount water/air heat exchanger and will be mounting the oil cooler below the bumper. I bought Aeroquip rubber covered -10 AN or 5/8 pushlok hose and fittings, since I do not feel I need braided steel covered hose and fittings for my use. Earls, Summit, Jegs, Aeroquip, Parker, Fragola, and others all sell this stuff.

My aftercooler used 3/4 hose, not 5/8. I used heater hose for that since it is carrying coolant. Heater hose is widely available and cheap.

When you refer with ports are you using the stock S54 lines? As for the hosing yea I confirmed that earlier today that its 3/4 as well not 5/8. I have to figure out how to step my 5/8 pipe thread on heat exchanger to a 3/4 barb fitting for the 3/4 hose???

Aftercooler hose is low pressure - and IIRC is 5/8" on the RMS setup, but I could be wrong. You can use heater hose from any auto supply store or McMaster Carr sells nice blue outside / orange inside silicone high temp heater hose. It's a bit thick, but very flexible. Just a touch of coolant and the rest distilled water, or a small portion of a bottle of MoCool/Water Wetter and distilled if you never have a danger of freezing in your area.

I dont have much freezing issues here in Cali where I live but Ill probably do a 1/4 coolant, 1/4 water wetter (rest will probably go into my radiator) and the rest distilled water.

[pbonsalb]

I am using the -10 AN adapter to the stock S54 filter housing ports. Bimmerworld and VAC and maybe others sell this. Possibly you could use stubs of the stock ports and AN tube fittings, but I have not tried that.

I am not familiar with your heat exchanger. If you have NPT fittings and can thread in another fitting, you can change the hose barb size at the heat exchanger. There are 1/2 NPT x 3/4 hose barb fittings, for example. If you have welded on barbs that are 5/8, you will have to step down the 3/4 hose before the exchanger. You should be able to find a 5/8 hose barb x 3/4 hose barb adapter with some effort. If not, you will have to make one using a 1/2 inch thread union that you will screw a 5/8 and a 3/4 hose barb into.

[AvusBlau//M3]

I am using the -10 AN adapter to the stock S54 filter housing ports. Bimmerworld and VAC and maybe others sell this. Possibly you could use stubs of the stock ports and AN tube fittings, but I have not tried that.

I am not familiar with your heat exchanger. If you have NPT fittings and can thread in another fitting, you can change the hose barb size at the heat exchanger. There are 1/2 NPT x 3/4 hose barb fittings, for example. If you have welded on barbs that are 5/8, you will have to step down the 3/4 hose before the exchanger. You should be able to find a 5/8 hose barb x 3/4 hose barb adapter with some effort. If not, you will have to make one using a 1/2 inch thread union that you will screw a 5/8 and a 3/4 hose barb into.

Ok I misunderstood you earlier. Yea I was going to go with the -10an fitting as well. Thanks for clarifying.

Update: the heat exchanger appears to be 1/2 to 3/4 barb is what I'll be needing. Appears this will work after all!

[JamesM3M5]

I think water wetter is concentrated to be run 20:1 water to water wetter. It will take about 1/10th of a bottle to fill the system. A whole bottle treats something like 3+ gallons of water.

[TechnoViolin]

I dont have much freezing issues here in Cali where I live but Ill probably do a 1/4 coolant, 1/4 water wetter (rest will probably go into my radiator) and the rest distilled water.

Is this a recommended setup for the RMS aftercooler? How do I drain all the coolant from the aftercooler system?

[AvusBlau//M3]

Is this a recommended setup for the RMS aftercooler? How do I drain all the coolant from the aftercooler system?

If you have a drain valve or nut on the heat exchanger undo that and the top nut on the aftercooler that should allow you to drain it. If you dont have a drain nut (which Im sure you do) you can pull the bottom hose of the heat exchanger and do it that way but it wont drain anything under that. Hope this helps.

[TechnoViolin]

If you have a drain valve or nut on the heat exchanger undo that and the top nut on the aftercooler that should allow you to drain it. If you dont have a drain nut (which Im sure you do) you can pull the bottom hose of the heat exchanger and do it that way but it wont drain anything under that. Hope this helps.

Thanks. Also, my aftercooler is an older design, so I do not have the bolt on the top of the aftercooler. I'll end up disconnecting one of the hoses on the heat exchanger. Thanks, buddy.

[AvusBlau//M3]

Thanks. Also, my aftercooler is an older design, so I do not have the bolt on the top of the aftercooler. I'll end up disconnecting one of the hoses on the heat exchanger. Thanks, buddy.

I thought the older units had the nut on top? Mines a older unit to and it does? How do you fill it? do you have a fill neck added to the line? If so undo that than.