540i engine failsafe

[nlacey]

Hey guys. I have been having problems with my car in engine failsafe. Below are the codes:

E6 Pedal position sensors
E7 Pedal position sensor 1
E8 Pedal position sensor 2
73 Air mass sensor (because I had it unplugged...doesn't trip code when plugged in)
75 Throttle position sensors
76 Throttle position sensor 1
77 Throttle position sensor 2
86 "Drive-by-wire throttle controller, lower
adaptation"

I have swapped out the throttle body with a used one and still getting the same codes. I'm focusing now on the pedal potentiometer.
Now here is my question..on top of any insight someone can give me about the throttle body / pedal potentiometer.
I was looking under the car and noticed some wires hanging. I had dealt with this before. I ran over a piece of tire on the highway a while back and it caught the wires and pulled them down. I plugged them back up and tried to zip tie the broken brackets. Well today I look underneath there and I see this:







I'm guessing it's been l ike this for some time. I'm not getting any codes for the o2 sensors or anything related. Could this possibly be my problem? Are there any fuses I should be checking that are tied to those wires and o2 sensors that could put the car into engine failsafe?

[SwiftSmooth528]

With that much electrical wire carnage under your car, I don't imagine anyone here would be able to tell you WHAT effect it would have.

I know you said you fixed things after you ran over the tire debris, but this looks like vandalism. Do you know of anyone who would want to mess with you this way? Are you an aggressive driver? Maybe you angered someone with an unsafe lane change and they followed you home one night.

Just my two cents... please don't be offended. Good luck with your car. I would take it to a good independent BMW shop if I were you.

[nlacey]

Thanks for the reply. I don't think it was vandalism though. Then again...who knows. I'm going to replace the sensors and wires. Curious if it is causing the engine failsafe.

[peetiewonder]

There's a pack of fuses behind the DME under the passenger side Cabin Filters. Check those.

TRUST ME

[nlacey]

There's a pack of fuses behind the DME under the passenger side Cabin Filters. Check those.

TRUST ME

LOL funny thing....I checked them yesterday (well tried to). I wrestled with the case and trying to detach it. Well they finally came loose and went up in the air and fell. I only got 3 out of the six and the rest fell to the bottom of the case the the DME and stuff sits in. I guess I need to go get a magnet or just buy a pack of 30amp fuses and replace them all.

Hey Peetie...just read your thread. I replaced my thermostat a year ago when the car first went dead. I remember it being kind of burnt up, but not to the extent of yours. The plug has dried coolant on it now. I sprayed with electric cleaner, but tomorrow i'll give it a nice scrub too. I'll most def get those fuses replaced and hope that's my problem.

[peetiewonder]

LOL funny thing....I checked them yesterday (well tried to). I wrestled with the case and trying to detach it. Well they finally came loose and went up in the air and fell. I only got 3 out of the six and the rest fell to the bottom of the case the the DME and stuff sits in. I guess I need to go get a magnet or just buy a pack of 30amp fuses and replace them all.

Hey Peetie...just read your thread. I replaced my thermostat a year ago when the car first went dead. I remember it being kind of burnt up, but not to the extent of yours. The plug has dried coolant on it now. I sprayed with electric cleaner, but tomorrow i'll give it a nice scrub too. I'll most def get those fuses replaced and hope that's my problem.

That little bank of fuses is in a pack that you can actually pull the whole pack like a relay so you can change the fuses out of the car. Also unscrew your DME and make sure the insides of it look good an there are no burned up components.

[nlacey]

Replaced the fuses today...same thing happening. I'll pull the DME and open it up in the morning...for inspection. I did notice that when I turn the key to the on position...I can hear the throttle body do a quick click. I believe this is normal..but not sure. I don't quite remember it doing it before. I have a used throttle body on there now...i'm at the point where i'm probably going to go buy a brand new one and see where that gets me. If that doesn't work, I'll go and buy a new pedal pot.

[nlacey]

OK...well I replaced the pedal potentiometer today with another used one. Brand new...they are 450 bucks. The negative battery cable has been unplugged for about a day and a half, to clear the DME. Well....*drumroll*.....same thing is happening. Car will start...goes into engine failsafe, and pedal doesn't respond. It is throwing the same codes. One thing I noticed however, is that I get a smoother idle when I unplug the MAF. I don't get a MAF code until I unplug it. Could the MAF be throwing it into engine failsafe...even though it isn't throwing a specific MAF code while plugged in? I don't know what my next step is. I see some INPA/DIS computer systems for sale on ebay. Maybe I should buy one and take a look at the live data and clear the DME???

anyone?

[nlacey]

Ok....I got GT1/DIS up and running. I ran the diagnosis and this is what I came up with.



















I have inspected the wires, checked fuses behind DME...unplugged the DME and checked for any water or corrosion and sprayed with contact cleaner. I have also swapped out the throttle body and pedal potentiometer with used units. I'm lost on whats next...I guess maybe swap out both parts with brand new units??? I have some post cat O2 sensors that I need to splice new connectors on, but I doubt that could be my problem...considering they aren't throwing a code. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

[nlacey]

Can someone please help me? I lost and don't know what else to do. I have fixed the O2 sensor wires. I just bought a brand new throttle body. I am still getting the same codes. I have a new one too now. I'm am getting EWS 3.3 manipulation code. I unscrewed..but did unplug the EWS box, so i could get better access to the pedal pot harness. When I went to start it...the code came up. I don't know what could be wrong with this car. Before the EWS error...the car would start and when I cleared the codes while it was running it would shut the car off. Also..I have read that the throttle body should click after about 30seconds. Mine clicks the second the key is in position 2. It also clicks when I attempt to clear the codes. The codes never clear and come back even without cycling the ignition or starting the car. Here is a video of what the throttle body is doing when I put the key in position 2 or clear the codes.


[ame]http://youtu.be/wzWYmBfXZXU[/ame]

[ViolinARC]

115 is a MAF/HFM5 code...it must be bad or reacting to being unplugged.

Have you replaced the TPS? I didn't read that you had actually replaced the sensor.

As for the EWS Manipulation, you've changed something that has pissed her off and now she thinks your trying to steal her or alter the mileage. I think the only way around that will be pricey...sorry I don't have more specific info but I think you've opened up a big ass can-o-worms! :eek

Oh yeah...squirrels LOVE to chew at exposed wiring or you hooked something on the road that pulled them out like that. Either way, gotta fix all the little crap before figuring out the bigger stuff at this point.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using BF.com

[nlacey]

Thanks for responding. Yesterday the battery went dead,so this morning I took it to autozone for a quick charge. Hopefully the EWS was just reacting to the battery getting low. I'll try and realign the ews to the dme when I get the battery back. I changed the throttle body with a brand new one (has integrated tps). The MAF was unplugged, so thats why it was tripping that code. My questions are:

1. Does everyone elses throttle body click/bump the second the key is in key position 2?
2. Aside from DME...any other fuses I should check?
3. When I turn the key to position 2...I am hearing a electrical sound. Like something is being energized...but there is a crackling noise. Is this normal? I'll try and record the audio on my phone.

[Justin517]

I would install the TB, go into INPA, clear the throttle adaptations, turn the key to pos 2 for 10 seconds, off for 2 seconds, then start it and see what happens.

[nlacey]

I would install the TB, go into INPA, clear the throttle adaptations, turn the key to pos 2 for 10 seconds, off for 2 seconds, then start it and see what happens.

Did that yesterday. When I took the video I hadnt installed the throttle body fully. I just plugged it into the harness. After that...I installed..cleared codes (wouldnt clear) and adaptations and did the 10 seconds thing. Same thing happened. Car went into failsafe and throttle didn't respond. I then got the ews code and my battery went dead...so I packed it up for the night. Waiting to get my battery back so I can get started on it today.

[Justin517]

well, if you are getting legit codes for the pedal pot, I would say its either bad (not likely for both pots to go bad at once) or your harness if broken somewhere between the pedal and ECU

[nlacey]

well, if you are getting legit codes for the pedal pot, I would say its either bad (not likely for both pots to go bad at once) or your harness if broken somewhere between the pedal and ECU

Yeah it has me baffled. Highly unlikely for both to go bad plus a new throttle body now and a new (used) pedal pot. I'm getting the multimeter out again to tests continuity. Mine doesn't have the beep function. What readings should I be looking for?

[Justin517]

You are looking for what the potentiometer should read? I'm not sure...

I would figure out which pin in the pedal plug corresponds to which pin in the ECU plug and test continuity through the harness...

[nlacey]

Well I ran another scan of the codes in INPA. This time of all modules. Tell me what you all think. I either have a major short somewhere...or my DME is dead in the water. All of the errors seems to show a short of some kind. I fixed the O2 wires under the car. If those had shorted (which i'm showing a error for now)...is there any fuses that may have tripped? Or would it have went straight to the DME and damaged it? It is showing a error on the MAF as voltage too high...but I don't even have it plugged up right now. I was able to get the car running again by resyncing the EWS to DME...so my EWS problem is gone for now. I have attached a video of what happens when my car is running and I clear the codes. It shuts the car off. Also attached is a video of the electric sound i'm hearing ( is it normal? ).









[ame="http://youtu.be/S4FNruzkG3g"]http://youtu.be/S4FNruzkG3g[/ame]

[ame="http://youtu.be/YjXHJPMJ3rU"]http://youtu.be/YjXHJPMJ3rU[/ame]

[rf900rkw]

Many of those codes could have been caused by a low battery. And also possible ghost codes from the previous work and testing..



Step one, get a good hot battery installed. You may want to leave a low powered trickle charger on while you are working.

Step two clear codes from all modules. Clear adaptions from DME

Step three key off, key on for ten seconds (don't touch ANYTHING), key off for two, key on.

Step four attempt to start

Step five assuming no start, reread codes and report

[nlacey]

Many of those codes could have been caused by a low battery. And also possible ghost codes from the previous work and testing..



Step one, get a good hot battery installed. You may want to leave a low powered trickle charger on while you are working.

Step two clear codes from all modules. Clear adaptions from DME

Step three key off, key on for ten seconds (don't touch ANYTHING), key off for two, key on.

Step four attempt to start

Step five assuming no start, reread codes and report

Same codes and car doesn't start. The car only seems to start when I unplug the battery for a few mins. I assumed it was because it was resetting the engine fail safe?

240 internal ecu error
17 supply voltage (voltage in INPA shows 11.78. I just had it charged yesterday and it's a brand new battery. I also have the charger connected to it)
230 pedal travel 4.52v and 4.57v-unplauaible
231 pedal travel pot 4.52v and 4.97v- signal too big
232 pedal travel pot2 4.52v and 4.97v - signal too big
117 DK Pot / both voltages at 4.97v - unplausible
134 test lower stop 4.97v and 0.04v - faulty
115 Hot film air mass 5.00v - voltage too high (I got this error one time with the air mass connector not even plugged up)

Any theories on some of the weird stuff? My throttle body clicks the second I run to position 2 and also when I attempt to clear the codes. If the car is running and I clear the codes the car will just shut off. I am also hearing some electric sound in the engine bay. I attached videos on both in my previous post. It looks like the 02 sensor error didn't come back...but last time it didn show up until I had the car running for a good minute. I guess enough time for them to heat up.
Guys ANY help is appreciated. Even of it just some one off theory for me to chase down. I'm guessing next I need to pull out my multimeter and start testing stuff...but I don't have the slightest clue where to start.

[AllThatJass]

To address your question about the throttle body clicking on key position 2.

I believe that is part of the ASC start up. The cable running from the ASC unit to the throttle body checks to make sure that it has control over the throttle. This, more than likely, is the "clicking" that you hear.

[nlacey]

To address your question about the throttle body clicking on key position 2.

I believe that is part of the ASC start up. The cable running from the ASC unit to the throttle body checks to make sure that it has control over the throttle. This, more than likely, is the "clicking" that you hear.

I don't have a cable. I think starting in 2000...they switched the the "throttle by wire" system.

[ViolinARC]

As I suspect...you've triggered the EWS or Electronic Immobilization IMO. This is most likely why you clear the codes, it seems ok and then won't start. As I stated earlier, you've pissed her off by tinkering with sensitive components.

From the Bentley: "Replacement EWS control modules or DME control modules must be electronically aligned to each before the vehicle will start. This requires the use of the bmw service tester (DIS-plus, GT1, or MoDiC). Without alignment, the engine will not crank (for example swapping a known good DME control module into another vehicle for test purposes will result in a no crank situation). In the EWS system, the ignition key is embedded with a computer chip (EEPROM) and coded. The key communicates with the vehicle using a transponder in the key and a ring antennae surrounding the steering lock cylinder. Up to 6 replacement keys are permissible. Only an authorized bmw dealer can provide replacement keys."

You could also have a faulty ring antennae but I'm not sure of your y/m. It only comes with EWSII cars so it may not be applicable.

You may have to bite the bullet on this one and see if a local Indy can override the immobilization circuit...my apologies that I can't be more helpful.

ECU...Engine Control Unit?? Same as ECM??? If so, it may be faulty or you have a short somewhere in the system IMO.

As you can tell, I can't stop thinking about this issue. It seems odd that she was starting and then, all of a sudden, you can't get her to start. The codes point to your Drive-by-wire system, that is a given but the start/no-start issue can be frustrating. I know these cars have sophisticated anti-theft systems and your troubles may very well be related to a security coding. :popcorn

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using BF.com

Maybe you erased the key from the EWS memory somehow??? Just gonna keep tossing them out there...

How far up the harness did you check from where those wires had been pulled? It looks like they had been pulled pretty hard so it could have pulled the wiring farther up the harness, which could be the root cause of your plethora of codes. You're gonna have to pull out a big ole can of whoopass and spend some time tracking down those electricals...

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using BF.com

[rf900rkw]

Yep, I see a volt meter in your future. Preliminary guess is a failed sensor return line, but I'm going to have to spend some time with the wiring diagrams to get a handle on things.

The clicking is normal TB startup selftest.

[ViolinARC]

Yep, I see a volt meter in your future. Preliminary guess is a failed sensor return line, but I'm going to have to spend some time with the wiring diagrams to get a handle on things.

The clicking is normal TB startup selftest.

+1 and yes, I can hear my throttle clicking when I turn to position 2 also.