I can haz CES Cut Ring headgasket for my daily driven TTS2.

[acastillo]

After having coolant pressurizing issues for the past year, despite passing all compression/leakdown/HC tests (thanks Luke!), my car became undriveable last week in fear of air pockets damaging the head. Here you see my car with the usual coolant puddle that spilled from the previous day's drive.


I figured I'd try retorquing the HG, and after finding a 12pt 12mm socket at Home Depot, I discovered that Calvin's legendary torquing skills still held ~3yrs later...studs did not move at 125ft lbs using my high quality torque wrench from Harbor Freight. Although J.T. and the SSTDB crew did a great job turning my car into a daily driven beast over a short weekend in '09, the Cometic MLS has it's limits and is dead after ~3yrs and 30k of hard year round driving.


I have read dozens of threads, and picked the brains of many of the FI experts...another MLS? MLS + copper o'ring? steel o'ring? cut ring? pyramid ring? or new pistons? Since wifey is still out of work thanks to this wonderful economy, and our fine government has effectively capped my income with the new LO compensation changes...HARP programs that still fall short...and whopping $80k short sale purchases that take 5mo to close, building the motor is out of the question. But I need reliability and can't be doing HG's every 2-3yrs.

So the solution...the CES Cut Ring headgasket...guaranteed to seal or your money back....well, not really



I intend to attempt this install myself, but I'll be honest...it intimidates me and will be a test of my limited skills. Specifically, the likely frozen alan head bolts on the turbo, removing/reinstalling the heavy head/exhaust manifold, proper resurfacing the block to ensure a seal, and most of all, proper timing of the motor (thanks Jim for the tools...also to Calvin and Ryan for the offers).

I'll update this thread with progress, since it seems very few are reporting on this headgasket and everyone wants a better solution to the questionable MLS 0.140. My goal is to get my car back running in the next 2wks.

[Captain]

[GG///M3]

Good luck dude. Same boat here. Mls perfect compression, but coolant is pressurized.

[MartiniFK]

Good luck dude. Same boat here. Mls perfect compression, but coolant is pressurized.

My problem as well. But after a while I gave up and brought it to a shop. My car is too pretty for me to experiment.

But I'll be getting a project car to learn

[acastillo]

Good luck dude. Same boat here. Mls perfect compression, but coolant is pressurized.

The pursuit of power leads to sadness...

[MartiniFK]

The pursuit of power leads to sadness...

It's funny cuz it's GG's quote. I get it!

[acastillo]

It's funny cuz it's GG's quote. I get it!

Beep!

Perhaps I can ask those of you familiar with this project, to review my parts list and let me know if I have everything I need:

• SS wastegate gaskets (3)
• ARP-100-9910 - Assembly Lubricant (new ultra torque lube)
• Comp Cams 4742-16 - Valve Spring Shims (may as well while I'm in there)
• 11127593376 N52 exhaust studs (24)
• 11721437202 Copper nuts (24)
• 11621744252 Exhaust manifold gaskets (2)
• 11611717259 M50 intake manifold gaskets (6)
• 11121738963 Water flange gasket (back of head, wasn't sure if needed)
• 11121726243 Locating dowel sleeve 13.5mm (2)
• Copper spray
• Right Stuff, Honda Bond, or Permatex Super 300 for TC cover (opinions welcome on what works best...I hate leaks!!!)
• Gasket between exh manifold and turbo? (Nick says he doesn't use any?)

And since it's got to come off, I also purchased this very cheap turbo blanket:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290575498901...S:3160&vxp=mtr
and this to wrap the down pipe:
[ame]http://www.ebay.com/itm/120755779005?item=120755779005&viewitem=&vxp=mtr[/ame]

Please let me know if I've missed anything to avoid last minute trips to the dealer or overnight shipping expense. Also looking for suggestions on other items that might be a good time to replace during this project, as I don't intend to have this back apart for a long time.

Thanks!

[Z3speed4me]

Good luck sir, I do not know what else besides that you may need, but I am glad you are giving that hg a shot with all that we have heard about them.

I have also hated the mls in the past, if mine goes again, motor time, regardless of if I could or should do it.

You could always have a machine shop clean up the head and refinish it then do the rest of the install from there....

[badluckM3]

Beep!

Perhaps I can ask those of you familiar with this project, to review my parts list and let me know if I have everything I need:

• SS wastegate gaskets (3)
• ARP-100-9910 - Assembly Lubricant (new ultra torque lube)
• Comp Cams 4742-16 - Valve Spring Shims (may as well while I'm in there)
• 11127593376 N52 exhaust studs (24)
• 11721437202 Copper nuts (24)
• 11621744252 Exhaust manifold gaskets (2)
• 11611717259 M50 intake manifold gaskets (6)
• 11121738963 Water flange gasket (back of head, wasn't sure if needed)
• 11121726243 Locating dowel sleeve 13.5mm (2)
• Copper spray
• Right Stuff, Honda Bond, or Permatex Super 300 for TC cover (opinions welcome on what works best...I hate leaks!!!)
• Gasket between exh manifold and turbo? (Nick says he doesn't use any?)

And since it's got to come off, I also purchased this very cheap turbo blanket:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290575498901...S:3160&vxp=mtr
and this to wrap the down pipe:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120755779005...witem=&vxp=mtr

Please let me know if I've missed anything to avoid last minute trips to the dealer or overnight shipping expense. Also looking for suggestions on other items that might be a good time to replace during this project, as I don't intend to have this back apart for a long time.

Thanks!

I wouldn't waste money on wrap, you will not gain anything on a bottom mount IMO. As for gasket between turbo I got mine from integrated engineering.

Copper spray - what does CES suggest?

I just did this job myself here recently. For removing the head, keep manifold and turbo on, and use the aid of an engine lift. If you don't have one, borrow, or Craigslist.

[PedroBMW]

did you also get the copper spacer with it to drop the compression? Or just the gasket? I was also on the fence for this gasket, but just recently pulled the trigger on a 0.140" MLS just due to price.

[GG///M3]

The pursuit of power leads to sadness...

Yes indeed. I can't wait to see the progress in this thread.

It's funny cuz it's GG's quote. I get it!

Hence the empty bottles of raki every where.

[cmzwirner]

I cant wait for results!

[acastillo]

You could always have a machine shop clean up the head and refinish it then do the rest of the install from there....

Absolutely making time for that this time around, as last time we did the install on the weekend and didn't have time to send the head out. Since I don't have a valve spring compressor, I plan to give them the shims as well and hope they won't charge too much to put them in.

I read in a different thread that there's some modification that should be done to the oil/water passage...removing or adding material? Can't remember exactly, but should I have them do this as well?

I wouldn't waste money on wrap, you will not gain anything on a bottom mount IMO. As for gasket between turbo I got mine from integrated engineering.

luckily, the wrap was only $20. Even if there is no performance benefit, I'm hoping it will keep temps down, and reduce exhaust noise transferred into the cabin as most of mine is coming from up front When I wrapped my headers on my old motorcycle, I vaguely remember it quieting things down, or at least changing the tone. Old guys like me do not like excessive exhaust noise . EDIT: I read that Mike R and Nick G do not use a gasket between turbo and manifold...hmmm

Copper spray - what does CES suggest?

John definitely said use copper spray when I spoke with him

I just did this job myself here recently. For removing the head, keep manifold and turbo on, and use the aid of an engine lift. If you don't have one, borrow, or Craigslist.

interesting. That would alleviate much headache not having to remove the turbo, or replace the exhaust studs/nuts/gasket, which I unfortunately already ordered for ~50. (EDIT:forget I just said that...just realized manifold needs to unbolt from head regardless...I really don't have a cognitive map of what's involved here) It could have gone toward this for $179 http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-c...ane-93840.html. I've never seen this mentioned in posts, and imagine it's a tight fit, but you've done it recently...it gave you no problems removing head/mani/turbo as a whole?

did you also get the copper spacer with it to drop the compression? Or just the gasket? I was also on the fence for this gasket, but just recently pulled the trigger on a 0.140" MLS just due to price.

yes, copper spacer. CES gives BFC members a $50 discount so the gasket is ~400 more than an MLS. The MLS overwhelmingly has sealing issues, with very few reporting long term success. For $400 more, I'll take my chances on the cut ring, so that I won't have to tackle this job every 2-3yrs.

Yes indeed. I can't wait to see the progress in this thread.

Beep!

[WK446]

Sad for your woes acastillo , but optimistic for your solution.

[acastillo]

Sad for your woes acastillo , but optimistic for your solution.

It's a blessing in disguise Dennis and an opportunity to advance my "mechanical prowess" . I always worried about MLS failure after installing Aquamist HFS6 and turning up the boost to 15lbs. Peace of mind and now I get to dyno and test the waters at higher boost levels

[badluckM3]

interesting. That would alleviate much headache not having to remove the turbo, or replace the exhaust studs/nuts/gasket, which I unfortunately already ordered for ~50. (EDIT:forget I just said that...just realized manifold needs to unbolt from head regardless...I really don't have a cognitive map of what's involved here) It could have gone toward this for $179 http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-c...ane-93840.html. I've never seen this mentioned in posts, and imagine it's a tight fit, but you've done it recently...it gave you no problems removing head/mani/turbo as a whole?

Boris had posted about it before, so I gave it a try. I'm running a SPA manifold. I used the hook point there near the vanos oil line, and then wrapped a tow strap through the manifold, and yanked it up. So much easier to remove manifold and turbo on a bench!!!

Sure it takes a little patience, and would be a great help to have a second person guide as the other controls the lift.

[acastillo]

^thank you for taking the time to respond and post pic. That certainly looks easier and HF just emailed me a 20% off coupon.

Can it be reinstalled the same way or does the tow strap get sandwiched? Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like you're fishing the tow strap along the side and not underneath.

[badluckM3]

^thank you for taking the time to respond and post pic. That certainly looks easier and HF just emailed me a 20% off coupon.

Can it be reinstalled the same way or does the tow strap get sandwiched? Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like you're fishing the tow strap along the side and not underneath.

I just looped it through a few of the runners. That pic was getting ready to re-install. Once you get started working with it, you'll figure it out. I can do it, you can do it!!

[Sniz]

I like where you are going with this, the CES looks like a great option, honestly wish I would have done that instead of oring and MLS. I can't do anything from this point forward except for oring.

[acastillo]

I can do it, you can do it!!

thank you my friend. I did happen to notice the hoist is 150lbs and I'm out of storage in my garage even if it does fold. Still undecided, but I may see how frozen the turbo bolts are first. I also found no deals on local CL, as HF was cheaper. Decisions, decisions.

I like where you are going with this, the CES looks like a great option, honestly wish I would have done that instead of oring and MLS. I can't do anything from this point forward except for oring.

My concern with another MLS is not necessarily sealing compression (passed w/flying colors on compression/leakdown at 30k), but sealing oil/coolant passages, and the dreaded oil leaks at the TC area.

After speaking with John at CES, these concerns are eliminated, and the gasket is much more forgiving with less than perfect mating surfaces (even though I plan to deck the head this time).

I wouldn't regret your decision to go MLS + oring though, as there are more reporting success with this method than the cut ring, and you saved yourself ~400 over my route. I was initially doing MLS + oring, but pusscaked after seeing the added labor involved. I'm already over my head with the DIY on the HG alone, without further complicating things.

While you're here Matt, did you look into cheaper alternatives to McMaster for the aluminum oxide honing stones? Bastards want $50 for 2 and I'm not exactly raking in the dough. Comments on these cheap dual grit stones?:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-9729100/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sharpening-S...item4ab4be9d6a
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Aluminum-O...item3a72cfa876

Also, anyone else have comments on choice of the following:
Hondabond
Right Stuff
Permatex Super 300
Indian Head

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

I've used the super 300 (or 3000 I forget) with success. However, I'm going with hondabond because I have that laying around.

[SiGmA]

$179 http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-c...ane-93840.html.

Craigslist, man. The older HF was fine, that model is absolute shit. I had to use it to unload an M42 a couple weeks ago and it was horrid! My Performance Tool one was prolly $199.99 back in 03 and it is awesome. Minus going through a few rams.

[acastillo]

Craigslist, man. The older HF was fine, that model is absolute shit. I had to use it to unload an M42 a couple weeks ago and it was horrid! My Performance Tool one was prolly $199.99 back in 03 and it is awesome. Minus going through a few rams.

Thank you. They make a 2ton model http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-f...ane-35915.html and there's not much on CL right now http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/tls/2964297487.html I won't decide if I'm picking up one of these until I see how bad the turbo bolts are first. I can see my wife yelling at me for the lift taking up garage space, while simultaneously hanging her clothes from it

[jszy25]

Really looking forward to seeing this thread progress!

[Sniz]

I used the McMaster stones myself so i cant comment on those others.

I feel you on the real estate / mortgage industry. I got out early last year and am now approaching my 1st full year with Andersen windows, got a nice job with a company car . now the m3 gets to sleep in the garage 29 days out of the year like it deserves.