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Thread: Timing, VANOS, 1 tooth offset to crankshaft

  1. #26
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    toyota
    I going to check timing today but what i don't understand is that this started
    from just replacing valve cover gaskets. just like the guy who started this post.
    I didnt have the chain loose. thanks for you help

  2. #27
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    Sorry guys, it has taken me a while, somehow I was disconnected from the thread,

    BEFORE YOU SPEND ANY MONEY- Re-enable the "RAM Backup" first, this will have saved me ALOT of money, even the freaking dealer did not do this even though is on BMW internal TIS.

    Here...

    Clear camshaft/crankshaft sensors adaptation values using DIS/GT1 loaded with CD V47.0, or
    higher. Select the following path:
    Control Module Functions – DME Motor Electronics
    RAM back up
    Select "Activate".
    [1]NOTE: After activation, there is no acknowledgment displayed on the screen.

    Thanks JP for this (complete text, http://www.justanswer.com/bmw/712pr-bmw-750li-ihave-2006-e66-engine-code-2b65-2a8d-changed.html )


    This should do it, IF the error comes back up, then do the following...


    REMEMBER, without BMW measuring tools, ALL the test you are going to do is trial and error, no other way around it, unless you want to pay the dealer BIG money to do what you can do.. Good thing is that the DME on this car is really good and will tell you which side and what is wrong.

    1. Adjustment unit - Open her up and check the adjustment units (toothed head where the drive chain engages) are lock, basically when the engine is off they are in the lock position, Ignore TIS jargon crap, basically they are lock if you try rotating the adjustment unit against the normal rotation and they will not move. Try rotating it (using the identention on the shaft) towards the center of the engine (I believe is the way, not 100% sure), it they don't easily move DO NOT spend money on new ones, they are ok, they hardly fail on these engines (learned the hard way)

    2. Solenoids - If adjustment unit is ok, then swap the solenoids, to the other bank, if the issue moves then it is the solenoids, if not, do not buy new ones, they hardly fail too. DME will not get confuse, it will not if it moved.

    3. Cam sensors – Swap the sensors to the other side, same here, if the error moves then replace it, if not, then DON’T unless you want to have new sensors


    BUT, first try the “RAM Backup” activation, this will most probably fix your issue. What this does is that it basically resets the sensors to the factory setup, just as if the car left the factory. (Thank you very much Freaking Dealer Master Tech for not trying this simple thing)

    Hope this helps. If you need any more help, post here, I will try to help the most I can, kind of familiar this engine now, LOL.

    One more thing, on the adjustment units, if you try rotating it againts the normal rotation and they move, keep going, until you feel that they lock, sometimes they are just no on the lock position, this happens and does not means they are bad. it should be less then one full rotation, BUT if you do a full rotation and they do not lock, THEN you have a bad adjustment unit and it should be changed.

    Now, good thing, is that the N62N engine was also used on the 5, 6, 7 and X5, but you have to look for the 4.8L ONLY, the other engines on these models will not work, they are too small. You can get a used adjustment unit for less money then a new one, and like I say, this things hardly fail

    The N62N is a good engine, has its little problems, but other than that it will tolerate ALOT.
    Last edited by bpdover; 01-11-2013 at 09:30 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  3. #28
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    2006 BMW 750li

    n62n changing valve stem guide seals

    hello there i have a 2006 750li and im in the process of changing the valve stem guide seals and need help with cam timming i bought the timming tools but i cant find any clear instructions on how to set the cam timming any help would be greatly appreciated

  4. #29
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    Hello,
    Yes, I know, the old free TIS site was removed so now you have to pay for access. Have you done the job already?
    If not, BEFORE removing the Cams make sure that the Adjustment units are locked into place, just rotate it against the normal rotation (I believe that will be towards the center of the engine, BUT not 100% certain now, so if you are looking at the engine from the driver side, rotate it towards the passenger side) you will feel that it is hard to turn, like it won’t move, that is when it is locked. If you rotate it towards you, then you will see that the Cam moves, that is good.
    If you did the job already, rotate the Cams two full cycles, using a wrench at the Cam indentation, reason been, since you removed the overhead Cams the arms that push the valves (the name escapes me now) are held in place by springs, the arms might come out when the Cams are rotated it and you DO NOT want to find out this once you complete the job and close the engine up. If you rotate and the arms stay in place, then you are good, if they dislocate it is obvious and you will see it.
    Now, the timing on this baby are set at the adjustment units (This are not your dad old Chevy, or mine for that matter, lol) even though complicated engines they are still simple. As long as the timing tool touches both intake and exhaust side you are good.
    Set the exhaust one first and then the intake.
    - Loosen up the screw on the adjustment unit (Do not install the oil line, it is easier this way and the oil lines might also break)
    - Rotate the Cams until you see the lettering (BMW I believe) on the metal pointing up, the indentation (cut on the metal) on the actual cam rod will be a little pass center.
    - Place the adjustment tool on the indentation and help it touch both sides. The Cam touches the valves so the pressure from the valves makes it sometime hard to rotate the cam, that is why you need to help it.
    - With timing tool touching both sides of the head, tighten up the screw on the center of the adjustment unit.
    - Do the same for the intake side.
    - Now, rotate the Crank at the center bolt one cycle until the cut on the flywheel aligns back to dead top center. Place the timing tool back on both Cams and validate that still touching both sides. Emphasis on touching the intake side, ok if on touching the exhaust side, but it should be only in mm, the gap should now be bigger than a credit card thickness (two CC at the most, not all engines have been worn the same).
    Now do the same for the other side. Once done, do one more crank cycle just for keeps (measure twice (three, four times), close one, LOL)
    You are done, close the engine and enjoy it. If the DME might throw the “one tooth off” error, just reactive the RAM Backup as above.

  5. #30
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    Hey thanks dpdover for your quick reply and simple instructions but to be honest im still a little confused and would hate to do the job all over you wouldnt happen to have any pics would also do u have a link to tis site i dont mind paying if its worth it thanks

  6. #31
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    Sorry, I don't have pictures and the TIS site was brough down, you can pay for a day subscription to BMW official site www.BMWTIS.com, or you can take a look at the youtube link below. Paying for the TIS day pass might be the best option, I belive it is like $30 dollars for a day or something like that. If you have any questions just sen me a personal email via the site, i'll help you the most i can.


    http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...41018144,d.eWU

  7. #32
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    Thanks Bpdover. The ram backup with the old gt1 fixed the car.

  8. #33
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    jesus christ guys, did anyone even read my post?

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by fullrev View Post
    hey guys, i'm a bmw tech and i've seen this issue before.

    since noone posted a fix... i will

    usually this fault comes up if debris got into the oil system usually from replacement of the valve covers. debris will get into the vanos gears and solenoids.

    i would remove all four solenoids and blow shop air through them and reinstall. then clear all adaptations and clear the DME ram. There is a function in the GT1 software. They removed this function in the new ISTA software. You will have to run the test plan oil disturbed test plan to do this.

    If that doesn't fix the issue, you will have to replace both VANOS adjustment gears on the bank that is having the issue.

    Good Luck

    Guys this is the FIX for this issue......been there done that a million times. Stop wasting time and do what he says!
    '02 E39 530i/5sp Topaz Blue/Black Interior - MegaSquirt3x - Garrett GTX3582R turbo - E85 fuel - Apex FL-5 - 265/295 tires - Custom Porsche Brembo BBK - 600whp @ 22 PSI
    '15 E84 X1 35i M Sport Alpine White/Coral Red Interior - H&R Sports & Bilstein B6 - Velgen VMB5 - 265/305 tires - ETS FMIC - MPI Charge pipe & DME Flash - 3.5" down pipe


  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackEatsEmoKids View Post
    Guys this is the FIX for this issue......been there done that a million times. Stop wasting time and do what he says!

    Not to blow your helpful comment, because I have the up most respect for the people on the thread since we are a comunity helping each other just because of our love of fixing broken things (LOL). It is always the intention what matters.

    REALLY... Stop wasting time??? You always have the option to ignore the thread and leave it to those that might get some help from it.

    First, If you follow the thread the original post was back in May, 2012, if you had DONE it A MILLION time, why didn't you post back in MAY. We could had all learned from you.

    Second, If you look at the thread again, it evolved into a more detailed talked on how to . NOTHING is as easy as it looks, I just went overboard and tried to give the more information I could (my bad) so if anyone else gets into a problem similar to mine they can follow a path and at least discard things before speding money not needed.

    I'm grateful to guys like Alpinaman, jgoetze1 and others that offered a sugestion and at least try to guide me in some direction.

    I'll step down from my soap box now...

    BUT remember that this is a community helping each other the most we can, that means been DETAILED on the help, if you are not DETAILED and people ignore you and ask for more help. There is no need to get mad and start bashing people. JUST ignore the thread, breath deeply and just go and help someone else.


    Look at thread #27 and let me know if that will not help you.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpdover View Post
    Not to blow your helpful comment, because I have the up most respect for the people on the thread since we are a comunity helping each other just because of our love of fixing broken things (LOL). It is always the intention what matters.

    REALLY... Stop wasting time??? You always have the option to ignore the thread and leave it to those that might get some help from it.

    First, If you follow the thread the original post was back in May, 2012, if you had DONE it A MILLION time, why didn't you post back in MAY. We could had all learned from you.

    Second, If you look at the thread again, it evolved into a more detailed talked on how to . NOTHING is as easy as it looks, I just went overboard and tried to give the more information I could (my bad) so if anyone else gets into a problem similar to mine they can follow a path and at least discard things before speding money not needed.

    I'm grateful to guys like Alpinaman, jgoetze1 and others that offered a sugestion and at least try to guide me in some direction.

    I'll step down from my soap box now...

    BUT remember that this is a community helping each other the most we can, that means been DETAILED on the help, if you are not DETAILED and people ignore you and ask for more help. There is no need to get mad and start bashing people. JUST ignore the thread, breath deeply and just go and help someone else.


    Look at thread #27 and let me know if that will not help you.
    For one, sorry. I guess that came off as not what I intended. I honestly don't frequent the 7 series forum which is why I never came across this thread till yesterday when I started to venture into different areas of BFC,

    Yes post #27 is helpful. Minus the fact DIS and GT1 is no longer in use by BMW. They changed the "RAM back up" to a new section of test modules in BMW's new system called ISIS. Fullrev had mentioned this. Sorry for coming off as a d**k. My bad. Glad you fixed the car though.
    '02 E39 530i/5sp Topaz Blue/Black Interior - MegaSquirt3x - Garrett GTX3582R turbo - E85 fuel - Apex FL-5 - 265/295 tires - Custom Porsche Brembo BBK - 600whp @ 22 PSI
    '15 E84 X1 35i M Sport Alpine White/Coral Red Interior - H&R Sports & Bilstein B6 - Velgen VMB5 - 265/305 tires - ETS FMIC - MPI Charge pipe & DME Flash - 3.5" down pipe


  12. #37
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    Hi Guys, Just first wanna say howzit to everyone

    I have been doing a lot of research - seeking high & low lol & came across this thread been the closest to my search.

    I'm driving a Sept 2005 650i E64 & finding that the car is fine during warm up phase but a bit sluggish at mid range when hot - no fault codes, done ram back up,(actually felt a bit worse in the mid's), not sure what the inlet varnos degrees should be in working temp? I can't seem to attach some screen shots of the tests I took, but here are some spec's to start off with...

    cold inlet varnos: 120 deg hot inlet varnos: 100 deg
    cold eccentric shaft: 112.6 deg hot eccentric shaft: 37.4 deg

    Any help will be appreciated!




  13. #38
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    sorry hulked, i did nto see your post until today, hope you have been able to fix it, but if not. did you changed the valve cover gasket? are you having some noices when the car is hot? you migh have a vacumn leak, which is a comon thing

  14. #39
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    1999 328i

    Camshaft timing question.

    Quote Originally Posted by bpdover View Post
    Hello,
    Yes, I know, the old free TIS site was removed so now you have to pay for access. Have you done the job already?
    If not, BEFORE removing the Cams make sure that the Adjustment units are locked into place, just rotate it against the normal rotation (I believe that will be towards the center of the engine, BUT not 100% certain now, so if you are looking at the engine from the driver side, rotate it towards the passenger side) you will feel that it is hard to turn, like it won’t move, that is when it is locked. If you rotate it towards you, then you will see that the Cam moves, that is good.
    If you did the job already, rotate the Cams two full cycles, using a wrench at the Cam indentation, reason been, since you removed the overhead Cams the arms that push the valves (the name escapes me now) are held in place by springs, the arms might come out when the Cams are rotated it and you DO NOT want to find out this once you complete the job and close the engine up. If you rotate and the arms stay in place, then you are good, if they dislocate it is obvious and you will see it.
    Now, the timing on this baby are set at the adjustment units (This are not your dad old Chevy, or mine for that matter, lol) even though complicated engines they are still simple. As long as the timing tool touches both intake and exhaust side you are good.
    Set the exhaust one first and then the intake.
    - Loosen up the screw on the adjustment unit (Do not install the oil line, it is easier this way and the oil lines might also break)
    - Rotate the Cams until you see the lettering (BMW I believe) on the metal pointing up, the indentation (cut on the metal) on the actual cam rod will be a little pass center.
    - Place the adjustment tool on the indentation and help it touch both sides. The Cam touches the valves so the pressure from the valves makes it sometime hard to rotate the cam, that is why you need to help it.
    - With timing tool touching both sides of the head, tighten up the screw on the center of the adjustment unit.
    - Do the same for the intake side.
    - Now, rotate the Crank at the center bolt one cycle until the cut on the flywheel aligns back to dead top center. Place the timing tool back on both Cams and validate that still touching both sides. Emphasis on touching the intake side, ok if on touching the exhaust side, but it should be only in mm, the gap should now be bigger than a credit card thickness (two CC at the most, not all engines have been worn the same).
    Now do the same for the other side. Once done, do one more crank cycle just for keeps (measure twice (three, four times), close one, LOL)
    You are done, close the engine and enjoy it. If the DME might throw the “one tooth off” error, just reactive the RAM Backup as above.
    Hello,
    I just finished the dreaded valve stem seals on my x5 4.4 and put it all together and started it and now it is running rough and has misfires on the right bank on all cylinders. I took the right valve cover off to check timing and the intake cam has a gap with tool installed on the flat closest to intake manifold. I had no gap prior to removing the vanos sprockets but every time I try to adjust and set the intake sprocket after I remove the tool and turn the engine two rotations the tool no longer sits flat. How can I tell if I missed a tooth on the intake wheel to chain installation because every time I put the tool back on I see the camshaft move like the sprocket is not in the locked position. I do not have a gt1 to talk to the dme but it is on order. I am at a loss right now any help would be appreciated.

  15. #40
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    Check if the adjustment unit is on a lock position (and not broken) before you start, see my first paragraph on the post. You MUST DO this first or they will move on you. if you move it one way and it does not move then they are locked and they are good. if you can do one full turn (do two just for fun) then they are bad and need changing, but these usually don't break.

    Now, these engines are NOT controlled by the tooth but rather by the adjustment units (so 1 tooth off actually means that the timing tool is not seating flat), I come from the old school too where the tooth is the one which controls the timing. on these engines it is done by the units, so don't think you missed one tooth, it does no difference where the tooth are, trust me on these, i tried it, lol.

    do this...

    - Check the lock on the adjustment unit, if they lock, then forget about them, they are NOT bad and you don't need to replace them.

    - Re-time both sides. you will need to rotate the engine twice a few times until you feel that the tool seats the closes (always to the intake side, top side). Remember that by the time the engine needs this job it has been worn so it is not at factory level. so you will need to play around to find the best position where the tool seats flat.

    - Tighten to adjustment tool screw really tight. I don't remember the proper lb of torque (you might find it somewhere) but if you don't have the tool and you do it by hand is like tightening a wheel (but not as hard as it will break, lol). Remember that the adjustment unit loosens and tightens according to speed, so a loose screw will give and the timing will move again.

    It should be all set now. if you get the misfire again, hopefully by then you will have the software and could read it, it might be something else.

    - also, check that the three sensors on the back are well connected, they will also give you errors, since they are the ones that tell the DME where the valves are at any time.

    Hope this helps. let me know

  16. #41
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    camshaft timing

    Quote Originally Posted by bpdover View Post
    Check if the adjustment unit is on a lock position (and not broken) before you start, see my first paragraph on the post. You MUST DO this first or they will move on you. if you move it one way and it does not move then they are locked and they are good. if you can do one full turn (do two just for fun) then they are bad and need changing, but these usually don't break.

    Now, these engines are NOT controlled by the tooth but rather by the adjustment units (so 1 tooth off actually means that the timing tool is not seating flat), I come from the old school too where the tooth is the one which controls the timing. on these engines it is done by the units, so don't think you missed one tooth, it does no difference where the tooth are, trust me on these, i tried it, lol.

    do this...

    - Check the lock on the adjustment unit, if they lock, then forget about them, they are NOT bad and you don't need to replace them.

    - Re-time both sides. you will need to rotate the engine twice a few times until you feel that the tool seats the closes (always to the intake side, top side). Remember that by the time the engine needs this job it has been worn so it is not at factory level. so you will need to play around to find the best position where the tool seats flat.

    - Tighten to adjustment tool screw really tight. I don't remember the proper lb of torque (you might find it somewhere) but if you don't have the tool and you do it by hand is like tightening a wheel (but not as hard as it will break, lol). Remember that the adjustment unit loosens and tightens according to speed, so a loose screw will give and the timing will move again.

    It should be all set now. if you get the misfire again, hopefully by then you will have the software and could read it, it might be something else.

    - also, check that the three sensors on the back are well connected, they will also give you errors, since they are the ones that tell the DME where the valves are at any time.

    Hope this helps. let me know
    Thanks for your quick response. I went back last night and retimed both intake and exhaust cams and now the tool sits almost flush now and I will put the cover on later. I found the camshaft sensor broken on the exhaust cam. Will replace today. The car now has a lifter noise so I am thinking one I have a seal on either the solenoid or the upper guide seal leaking. Any tips to to isolate where I am losing pressure to the vanos and would that even cause engine misfiring. Or can the cam screw solenoid be put on incorrectly. I was told that the car with ignition switch on and no start the screw solenoid finds where it wants the position to be so that is what I did. Or can the solenoid be put on incorrectly. Thanks again for your response.

  17. #42
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    The selenoid only goes in one way, i also heard that turning the ignition on and stepping on the gas pedal for 20 sec resets some of the DME funtions, but i will still go to the DIS (now GT1), there is an option there to "re-learn the valveltronic". it is under "funtions", that will for sure set the valvetronics to where it is supposed to be. Does it still misfiring? I will wait for the software, and run a diagnostic, it will tell you if there is a preasure lost and to what bank. Is it showing the check engine? You can also go to your autopart (Advance, Pepboys, O'Rilley, etc) and ask them to read the DME, it is for free and you can then search for the error code.

    Also, what year is your X5? i don't know if they correct it inthe newer ones, but i used to have an 01, and the CVV was a tank behind the engine which sometime needs to be replaced. it catches the oil condensention and sends it back down to the oil pan and sometimes the plastic tube will break and develop a vacumn leak. The n62 engines are really un-happy with vacumn leaks. google your x5 year and "CVV" or "oil canister" if i remember correctly. I will replace it since you are working on the car, and also verify that the plastic tube is not broken.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpdover View Post
    The selenoid only goes in one way, i also heard that turning the ignition on and stepping on the gas pedal for 20 sec resets some of the DME funtions, but i will still go to the DIS (now GT1), there is an option there to "re-learn the valveltronic". it is under "funtions", that will for sure set the valvetronics to where it is supposed to be. Does it still misfiring? I will wait for the software, and run a diagnostic, it will tell you if there is a preasure lost and to what bank. Is it showing the check engine? You can also go to your autopart (Advance, Pepboys, O'Rilley, etc) and ask them to read the DME, it is for free and you can then search for the error code.

    Also, what year is your X5? i don't know if they correct it inthe newer ones, but i used to have an 01, and the CVV was a tank behind the engine which sometime needs to be replaced. it catches the oil condensention and sends it back down to the oil pan and sometimes the plastic tube will break and develop a vacumn leak. The n62 engines are really un-happy with vacumn leaks. google your x5 year and "CVV" or "oil canister" if i remember correctly. I will replace it since you are working on the car, and also verify that the plastic tube is not broken.
    Sorry for the late response. The vehicle is an 05 x5 with 4.4l engine so the ccv is not a factor but i put all the parts and valve cover on and ran the vehicle but i am still getting misfire codes for most cylinders. Im confused on your original problem with you engine did you have misfire on your engine to drive you to do the reset and then problems went away because i had no issues with the car prior to doing the valve stems and now i have what sounds like lifter noise now and all the faults. I am guessing the position of the intermidiate levers is what is throwing the misfire codes because it has to relearn the new positions they are at now and i never reset the RAM. correct me if im wrong. Thanks for your input.

  19. #44
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    did you replaced the sensor? Did you get the sotware installed, without it it is hard to ping point the issue. the DME compensates for everything on this engine, so a bad sensor can lead to a lot of other issues/noices. I got the issue because the one of the intermidiate levers fell off and the sensor thru that error, which could only be fix by doing the RAM reset, it will not reset by itself after i corrected the issue. I will STRONGLY sugest that you don't spend more time (or money) until you get the software (and cable) and read the error, you will endup spending LOTS of money when a simple reset or sensor change could do it. the DME on this engine will pinpoint the location base on the sensors.

    - - - Updated - - -

    you can buy the cable from ebay, some people have preferences against the chinesse ones, i got mine from a guy in ireland off ebay, and it gave me the site to download the old software.

  20. #45
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    timing Question.

    Quote Originally Posted by bpdover View Post
    did you replaced the sensor? Did you get the sotware installed, without it it is hard to ping point the issue. the DME compensates for everything on this engine, so a bad sensor can lead to a lot of other issues/noices. I got the issue because the one of the intermidiate levers fell off and the sensor thru that error, which could only be fix by doing the RAM reset, it will not reset by itself after i corrected the issue. I will STRONGLY sugest that you don't spend more time (or money) until you get the software (and cable) and read the error, you will endup spending LOTS of money when a simple reset or sensor change could do it. the DME on this engine will pinpoint the location base on the sensors.

    - - - Updated - - -

    you can buy the cable from ebay, some people have preferences against the chinesse ones, i got mine from a guy in ireland off ebay, and it gave me the site to download the old software.

    I did replace the sensor and retimed the engine again. What did you mean by the intermediate levers falling off.. I have checked mine and see that lower leg of the levers are on the cam an appear to be normal but i cannot explain the ticking /lifter noise now that i am experiencing now. I will be waiting for the gt1 on to reset ram. Ill keep you up to date whenever I reset. thanks again.

  21. #46
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    timing

    Quote Originally Posted by rami737 View Post
    I did replace the sensor and retimed the engine again. What did you mean by the intermediate levers falling off.. I have checked mine and see that lower leg of the levers are on the cam an appear to be normal but i cannot explain the ticking /lifter noise now that i am experiencing now. I will be waiting for the gt1 on to reset ram. Ill keep you up to date whenever I reset. thanks again.
    Just hooked up the gt1 and tried to reset ram per instructions above could not find the option on my menu I am using version 57 and cant even find the option to remove drive motor for the exhaust drive. what version are you using? Still have the misfires on all but number 8 cylinder but have lifter noise. Any idea if a collapsed lifter would cause this issue. Any help would be appreciated.

  22. #47
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    orlando, fl
    Posts
    61
    My Cars
    750li, RR SC, ML350
    When running the gt1 what errors are showing? I don't remember off the top of my head the actual section names I will get it to you tonight, but to relearn the start stop motor is under the second button at the bottom, the engine, then VALVETRONIC on the middle column, that will display more option on the right column. Once you pick it only selects it for a plan you need to execute it. To reset the ram is the next to last option at bottom on error screen. Page down to DME, click, then choose it on middle column

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    pearland,tx
    Posts
    49
    My Cars
    1999 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by bpdover View Post
    When running the gt1 what errors are showing? I don't remember off the top of my head the actual section names I will get it to you tonight, but to relearn the start stop motor is under the second button at the bottom, the engine, then VALVETRONIC on the middle column, that will display more option on the right column. Once you pick it only selects it for a plan you need to execute it. To reset the ram is the next to last option at bottom on error screen. Page down to DME, click, then choose it on middle column
    Hello,
    the errors I am showing are all misfire codes but now the gt1 I purchased from ebay is no longer working so I am trying to get it exchanged. Taking the car to the dealer tomorrow to see if they can tell me what is wrong with it. I have an extended warranty though a third party so I hope the can fix it for free. I will keep you informed on what they find. Thanks again you been very helpful.

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    338
    My Cars
    85 745
    In case anyone gets hung up on this problem... If you've done all the basic timing checks and made sure everything is clean with the solenoids run this test plan next:

    Function selection---Service functions----Maintenance----CBS reset----CBS functionality(this is in the middle column) then push test plan. it will ask you if you want to delete all adaption values, push yes and follow the rest of the prompts. this path applies to v57 on dis. I don't know if its the same on older versions of dis or not.

    I changed valve guides and seals on a 06 750 (30th time doing this job) and i've never seen this fault before 2a90, 2a91 along with other faults are possible. TSB 121206 from bmw is what I tried to follow but it doesn't apply to dis 57 but it is the same problem.

    Thank you to everyone that posted on this thread earlier you all helped me figure this problem out. It ran me in cirlces for 2 days and stumped about 5 other master bmw techs that I know.

    Devin

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    15
    My Cars
    2007 750i
    I just had my valve stem seals done on my 2007 750I with the All German Auto Tool Kit. I am getting a check engine light now. At first I was getting code P0390 camshaft position sensor B (bank2). I took out both solenoids in front of motor (bank2) and cleaned. Also swapped cam position sensors on back of motor. The code did not jump. I got onto my DIS program and I cleared adaptations on DME then I activated the Ram backup on DME. Now I get P0393 Camshaft position Sensor B high input(bank2)


    Car runs smooth. When I'm slowing to a stop sometime Rpms slightly go up then goes back to normal.


    I'm going to pull my hair out. Please help

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