Timing, VANOS, 1 tooth offset to crankshaft

[bpdover]

I'm at a lost here, I'm getting the following error on the bank2 inlet VANOS

2A8F CDKNWEKW2 - intake camshaft 2, cog offset of crankshaft (DIS translates it to, 1 tooth offset between the camshaft and the crankshaft.)

Engine is also hesitating when cold, once warm it is fine.

I have used the timming jigs on both banks and they both are at the correct timing (only bank2 is on error). I read the TIS and it says that the VANOS can be freely set in relation to the crankshaft, you only need to se the timing between the inlet and outlet VANOS, but yet I'm getting this error.

- Checked inlet and oulet VANOS timing and it is ok
- Checked for vacum leak and can't find anything
- Spark plugs are new

Can the selenoids create this issue? (DIS suggest that either the timing is wrong, the selenoids is bad or the oil is low (checked and oil is a correct level))

[White94RX]

I'm gonna say the timing is off, the solenoid is bad, or the vanos gear itself is bad.

[02325]

its been a while since i have fooled with a N62 engine, but can you swap the solenoids from left to right banks. If you can and the fault moves, than you know its a solenoids.

[White94RX]

Yeah, all 4 solenoids are the same.

[alpinaman]

ok .. listen carefully

have you opened it up before this happend or one day u came and it happend

does the code say anything like camshaft output stage ..

if so there are a few things to check ..

1.eccentric shaft sensor ..

if eccentric shaft sensor checks out

2. input stage is intake output stage is exaust depending on that code look into that camshaft actuator .. if you clear the code and it comes back after the second start

its eighter a computer issue ( btw theres an update available for the valvetronics)

theres in a cut wire ..

NOW for what ive seen and repaired

output stage cam code .. did the software update via our shops autologic
second did a visual on the actuator wires and turns out the plastic connector chiped and one wire was sticking out of the connector housing .. could be tricky to fix specially if you call bmw they will want to sell you compete harness..

i used a older bmw wiring harness and matched up the wires and walla

did a syncro of the cams before starting and adjusted the mininum stroke to .08 the car has never idled smooth in its lifespan ..

goodluck i kno my writing is everywhere

but what do you expect from a mechanic lol spend my time in the shop more than english class

[bpdover]

Thanks alpinaman for the sugestion. Yes the car was opened since i had to change the dreaded valve seals. I'm telling you, the car does not want to be fixed

The funny thing is that it is only bank 2 the one with the problem.

- changed the 2 selenoids, input and output
- changed the vanos adjustment unit

By reading more about the VANOS what it looks like is that the VANOS moved the intake foward or backward to compensate for the car starting, but now it can not move it back to the original position, so the car hesitates until it warns up.

you can see it by looking at the VANOS adaptation for the inlet (using DIS)

- cyl 1-4 is at 121.10 cr
- cyl 5-8 is at 109.40 cr

when i changed the adjustment unit the adaptation for cyl 5-8 was at 126 cr, but it then moved back to 109.40 cr

[alpinaman]

did you learn the position of the eccentric shaft?

maybe the connectors are reversed

[bpdover]

I didn't check on that one, I will tonight when I get home

I don't have any 750 available to validate, but the cable for the selenoids for bank 2 looks like should be coming thru the right side, and the cable is setup in a way not to place them in the wrong way, unless the cables come in from the left side of the block, but I will try that tonight too

Thanks

[Robertson233]

the vanos gear itself is bad.[IMG]http://www.**********.info/7.jpg[/IMG]

[alpinaman]

switch the wires i kno its a tight space but swap them and try it ..

[bpdover]

I tried that but they are correct. When it is backwards the car hesitates hard.

Is there a way to verify that the eccentric sensor and the camshaft position sensor are good, to rule those out?

One thing, does the eccentric shaft has a spring on it? Before, turning it felt like there was a spring holding it back, so it turned hard when manually turning it via the hexagon nut. But now it is a lot easier to turn.

Robertson233,
When you say the VANOS gear, you mean the adjustment unit?

[bpdover]

Ok, so I changed the following but still no luck. This is driving me mad..

- New VANOS adjustment unit
- Swapped cam sensor to other bank, error did not moved
- Swapped eccentric sensor to other bank, error did not move either

[jgoetze1]

Possible you may have a bad valvetronic control module. Have done a couple.

[alpinaman]

theres a update on the valvetronic module .

has that been executed?

[bpdover]

All the systems were updated to the latest version.

Does the VVT also controls the adjustment units? Can it be that the VVT is going bad even though I get no errors about it? One of the symptoms I'm getting is that when cold, it hesitates when approaching the 2k revs, but once warmed up and after a second restart it goes away. I need to restart it twice when cold, but if hot then I don't see the issue.

[alpinaman]

sounds internal bro ,

valve clearence

[bpdover]

That's what i was starting to think, it feels like either gas or air cutoff, but since the VVT also controls the valve lift/clearance for the intake, I was thinking it could be it. One strange thing was that i did the re-learn VVT start/stop procedure by doing the key and start button, without presing the brake pedal, and then started it and it worked fine, only once :-( so i then did the re-lean VVT via DIS to see, but it looks like it didn't work. when hot the engine revs and runs/acelerate perfect and there is no vibration, sometimes it feels like the engine is off (just like it should) it is the damn, hesitation and one tooth off issue that is driving me nuts.

I let DIS do the testing, where it brings the cam from 60 to 120 degrees of the crankshaft and a noticed a funny thing, bank 1 (not showing an error) flutuates back and forth betwwen 119.7 and 120 degrees while bank 2 stays at 120 degrees. i think that might be the 1 tooth off, but not certain.

[alpinaman]

and you said you replaced the eccentric shaft adjustment unit ?

the one bulgy looking thing by the top of the valve cover

[bpdover]

The one I replaced was the vanos adjustment for the inlet, the one with the tooth that attaches to the timing chain

[alpinaman]

ok i bieleve your eccentric shaft needs to replaced the one im talking about



number 11 befopre pulling them out you need to use the scanner and press "remove eccentric shaft "

that will unwind it all the way so you can replace it

when you realign the eccentric shafts it should take NO longer than 10 SECONDS

[bpdover]

Is there a way to know which one of the two needs to be replaced? I have use DIS to remove it, but when removing it, there is one that unwinds faster and harder the the other one. Is that the one which is probably having issue or is it the other one?

[alpinaman]

previously you stated that you had no problems on bank one

but you also said that theres a fluctuation on the bank two

from what you said from your diagnosis sounds like you need to change bank two eccentric shaft adjuster

[fullrev]

hey guys, i'm a bmw tech and i've seen this issue before.

since noone posted a fix... i will

usually this fault comes up if debris got into the oil system usually from replacement of the valve covers. debris will get into the vanos gears and solenoids.

i would remove all four solenoids and blow shop air through them and reinstall. then clear all adaptations and clear the DME ram. There is a function in the GT1 software. They removed this function in the new ISTA software. You will have to run the test plan oil disturbed test plan to do this.

If that doesn't fix the issue, you will have to replace both VANOS adjustment gears on the bank that is having the issue.

Good Luck

[bmwte]

what fixed the car i have one with same problem. cant seem to fix it

[mandd]

Cam Crank timing is still off. This happens when the Vanos adjustment unit is not put in it's initial position before setting the timing with the jigs.

If you pull it apart and set the jigs on you will find that the tool will not set flush for the intake cam (more than 1mm).

Ensure the gasket on the slide rail is always replaced (11 317 501 735) this is an oil channel the the adjustment units.

The adjustment units rarely fail on this N62 motor.

Ensure the crank pulley is locked in place with the correct size tool, not something that just fits loosely.

Mark.