FS: Alternator Power Cable Upgrade and Engine Ground Cables

[Gregs///M]

Been having some problems with fluctuating temperature gauge and occasional no crank from starter so I decided to make some electrical upgrades. The alternator cable seemed a little thin compared to my other BMW's and felt I should step it up a size to 4 gauge. Plus I have a 500 watt sub woofer amp so this will definitely help!

I replaced the main power cable from the alternator to the starter and the engine to chassis ground cable. I had some extra cable left over so decided to make a few additional pieces to help the BMW community.

OEM replacement cables:
$25 shipped each - 4AWG Alternator upgrade cables (Black Excelene insulation) A slight increase over OEM size.
$15 shipped each - 4AWG Engine to Chassis ground cables (Black Excelene insulation)

Heavy Duty, high current cables...Perfect for those with upgraded alternators and sound systems!
$30 shipped each - 2AWG Alternator upgrade cables (Black Excelene insulation)
$20 shipped each - 2AWG Engine to Chassis ground cables (Black Excelene insulation)

Package deal, $35 for both the 4AWG Alternator and ground cables (Excelene), $45 for 2AWG cables.

Paypal accepted, will ship within continental USA. International shipping is negotiable. Please PM with request, (wire gauge size, type, and quantity.) Will discount on bulk ordering.

Here are the specs of the cable and components that I used.
Cable Conductor - #4AWG 99.999% purified electrolytic copper
Cable Insulation - CCI Royal Excelene (resists oil, burning, abrasion, cold weather and is rated at 600 volts/3 hours, -58F to 221F)
Lugs - 3/8in dia through hole, copper
Heat shrink - Irradiated Polyolefin (flame retardant, -47F to 257F)

Additional specs - Highly flexible welding cable, which in my professional opinion, is the best power cable because its resistant to multiple climates, temperatures, oils, gas, and can withstand extreme amounts of current. Also highly conductive copper.

I am a professional electrical technician for over 10+ years so I can assure you these cables are made with the utmost quality and will provide reliable power transfer for decades to come. Here are the steps that I used to build these cables.

Insulation is stripped, using professional techniques that avoids ANY possible nicks or scores. Wire that is stripped in a un-professional manner will have nicks and scores that will break over time and/or during the moment of crimping. This will lead to failure of the termination.


First crimped using Klein crimpers under high pressure.
Each end is soldered using 60/40 tin/lead and a torch. Note the complete absorbing of solder.





Polyolefin heat-shrink tubing applied


Each termination is cleaned for maximum conductivity.


Complete Alternator upgrade cable 4AWG


Engine to Chassis ground cable 4AWG


High Current 2AWG Power and Ground Kit

[TireFryer]

Got them today... Nice quality build. The alt to starter will work perfect, but alas, in the 325ix, the starter does NOT ground to the oil pan...oops" should have checked that. Anyways, if I send you measurements with what I need, would you be able to make another for me?
Thanks

[Gregs///M]

You might not need another cable...

The starter grounds though the transmission bell housing, through the engine block, and through the Engine to Chassis ground cable.

This reinforces the importance of that Engine to Chassis ground cable! This cable installs between the oil pan on the stud sticking out directly across on the frame rail. There is a power steering hose very close to it.

I recommend you clean the surface between the bell housing and starter real well to maximize conductivity.

If you need supplemental grounding for the starter, I can certainly make that for you. Just name the length.

[Gregs///M]

bump

[Gregs///M]

Plenty of these in stock still

[Gregs///M]

Bump, plenty of cables still in stock.

[david2991]

e36 M3 fitment?

[Gregs///M]

e36 M3 fitment?

E36 M3's generally do not require replacement cables but if you would like to do it, which is nothing wrong with replacing old cables, you can purchase directly from our website. SKU is #2KIT16.

[shlalaw]

Bump for a quality product. Here's my thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...1#post28351211

[cargeek733]

Old thread, but these look great.

Anyone replace the negative cable with one from an E12? I have an E23 so I'm unsure if it's the same but my car has a short negative battery cable that grounds to the inner fender well while the E12s apparently have a long cable that runs to the engine block and a smaller braided strap that runs to the inner fender well.